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About sonicii

  • Rank
    Rank: RB25DET
  • Birthday 10/21/1974

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    Townsville, Queensland

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  • Car(s)
    05 V35, 07 J31 Max, 15 Q50 Hyb
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  1. epc data list different parts numbers, so I suspect they are different.
  2. Seems well up there considering I paid $22.5k for my 2015 Q50S Premium AWD Hybrid late last year. I know it is smaller than the Q70/Fuga/M35, but sounds like the features are similar.
  3. I think these have the same driveline as my Q50 Hybrid, they are a performance focused setup, not economy, so you won't get awesome city economy like some other hybrids. Engine runs on mine most of the time on the highway especially in 110 zones, sometimes switching to EV on slight declines, makes an awesome overtaking experience when you mash the throttle though. I am quite happy with performance in low 5s 0-100.
  4. I would be concerned about fitting anything after the fuel pump regulator, the ECU assume the fuel pressure at the pump is the same as at the rail in a returnless system, adding components between the 2 points could introduce a restriction and therefore a fuel pressure difference, which will cause issues.
  5. OP hasn't said Coupe or Sedan, makes a big difference, I have stock coupe 18s on my sedan and they sit flush all round
  6. I fitted 350z spring on the rear of my V35 sedan which dropped it about 25mm and was able to align it with the factory suspension, was near the limit though. Front is more difficult as lowering causes neg camber which you can't adjust out and most upper control arms only allow more neg camber, you can get offset lower control and compression rod bushings which can compensate a little.
  7. I don't have one, but surely an muffler shop could find something aftermarket that would fit?
  8. open the bleeder on the driver side toward the back of the engine, slowly fill the system to allow the air time to escape. Whenever I have changed the coolant, once full, I close the bleeder and put the cap back on then squeeze the top radiator hose a few times (not too hard), it moves the coolant back and forth through the system a bit and helps any trapped air escape to the top, then refill and repeat a few times. I have never had an issue with temp problems post coolant change.
  9. Well, changed the TX fluid last weekend, drained the pan and then dropped the pan to clean it out, was surprised how much fluid sits in the bottom of the pan even after fully draining via the drain plug. the plug isn't quite at the lowest point, and has a flange around the hole inside the pan. It gave me a chance to clean off the magnets in the pan which had a little build up. Also given the RE7R01H does not have a torque converter, just draining and refilling the pan changes a higher percentage of the fluid. I did 3 drain and refills with running the engine for 3mins in between each as specified in the FSM. I can't say it made a huge change, it is difficult to separate any actual changes from placebo but it might shift a bit firmer now. Although I was getting some flaring on the first 4-5th change in the morning, subsequent 4-5th shifts were always fine after that. This seems to have disappeared now though. No negatives noticed so far. I do plan to keep this car for a long time so the main priority was to extend the life of the transmission.
  10. I did look at the MaxLife, but I was a bit worried about how broad the 'compatibility' claim is. I was drawn to the penrite product as they make this specifically to meet the low viscosity needs of their specified compatible fluids and have a 'multivehicle' fluid that is suitable for the higher viscosity requirements. For example matic J is a higher viscosity oil, Matic S is low, but Valvoline claim 'Maxlife' meet the requirements of both. The transfer case in the Q50 specifically requires Matic J as it needs the higher viscosity fluid, but Matic S in the transmission due to the LV requirement. Anyway, I bought 12L of the Penrite LV ATF today, so will be using that tomorrow. I'll report back on how it goes.
  11. I am about to do a TX fluid change in My Q50 which runs a RE7R01H transmission and specifies Nissan Matic S fluid. I called the dealer the other day to see if can order a 20L drum and they advised they no longer use Matic S as it has been superseded by Castrol Dex VI and they can sell me 4L containers of that instead. I figure I can get that elsewhere cheaper, but was instead looking at a Penrite product which specifically lists it is compatible with Matic S. The reason I am looking at this is because it specifies it is a fully synthetic ATF, where the Castrol product doesn't mention if it is synthetic. Has anyone used this fluid and can comment on its suitability? https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/atf-lv-full-syn https://www.castrol.com/en_au/australia/home/products/car/auto-transmission-fluids.html#tab_transmax-dexron-vi-mercon-lv
  12. ^^ This!! It is worth getting your own Japan history check done too. Easy enough for a damaged/ grade R car to be purchased at auction in Japan. cleaned up and patched up, then re-auctioned as a grade 4B or similar, all the dealer shows you is the last auction sheet, not the first. Import dealers don't really have a good track record when it comes to shonky imports.
  13. mostly as above, if they are the right tyre size (diameter), offset and width, they won't hurt the car, but given how they look in the pictures, I suspect they aren't the right offset, at the least.. That said, they will ride crap and will be crazy expensive to replace. How they look, well that is in the eye of the beholder! Personally, I wouldn't go past 19s on these cars, but that's me..
  14. you can probably unplug one or all of the sensors behind the bumper, but it will throw a dash light and likely make the car unroadworthy.
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