Jump to content
SAU Community

sonicii

Members
  • Posts

    1,809
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by sonicii

  1. I assume if you are replacing the transmission, you wouldn't replace the TCU as well? unless there is a problem with the TCU also? I know some of the CVTs have have unique figures burnt into a ROM in the transmission itself which the TCU reads to 'customise' itself to suit, when replacing a CVT, you need to tell the TCU to 'relearn' the figures in the new transmission. As far as I know, that doesn't apply to conventional autos.
  2. fairly sure my TPS is not adjustable, there is an ECU adjustment procedure for it to re-learn the throttle closed position. So it is more of an electronic adjustment than a physical adjustment of the sensor itself.
  3. they really should be tightened and torqued up in their normal operating position, if you torque them up when there is no weight on the suspension, the rubber in the bushes will be permanently twisted when the vehicle weight is put back on the suspension. Not as much as an issue with poly bushes as they can move, but rubber bushes are fixed to the inner and outer steel casing.
  4. I suspect you might have problems with the remote if you buy one from USA as they use different frequencies than Japan. I suspect the immo chip should be ok though. I would try a wrecker and see if you can get a used one, then buy a new case and blade and swap the remote and immo chip from the use one in.
  5. Check vacuum advance operation???? the 1970s want their service book back... Check and adjust throttle position sensor? are these even adjustable? Also, does anyone ever check valve clearances are part of regular servicing?
  6. it is probably not too bad for now, but if popularity of EVs grows, they will need to quickly ramp up the number of charge stations. last thing you need when stopping for lunch is a 3 car queue to get to the chargers, and each car needs 30mins or so on the charger.
  7. Yeah.. I get a bit sick of saying this. RON is a measurement of the fuel's resistance to knock or self detonation, in Australia there is also a considerably lower allowable level of sulphur in premium fuels, other than that, there is no difference beside what individual fuel suppliers may or may not decide to add to their premium fuels. I'm also not sure about the newer versions of the VQ, but the DE does not 'adjust' to low octane fuels. If it detects knock, it switches to a 'knock map' for timing and richens the fuel mix. It is a safety mechanism to try to prevent engine damage, not a tuning mechanism.
  8. Probably because structural damage almost always triggers a write off by insurance companies, often because the car can't be repaired to a safe standard, but otherwise, because such repairs are not economically viable for the insurer, so they write off. Therefore there would be very little demand for major structural components.
  9. You would need to know exactly why 95 is specified. In some cases it is due to the requirement for low sulphur fuel (our 91 has a max of 150ppm, 95 or 98 has a max of 50ppm). Usually it is due to compression ratio, which is why the manual will often state to avoid full throttle if you need to use 91 in an emergency. You can't 'tune' the compression ratio, you would need to modify the engine to reduce compression which would make the whole process cost prohibitive.
  10. Any mechanic should be able to do a RWC on any car as it is a fairly simple safety check. Or do you need work done as well?
  11. they would fit, but they might not be legal, you probably need to go to a 225/35 or a 245/30 tyre to get within the allowable 15mm difference from the stock tyre diameter. That is assuming the rims are the right offset for the V35 and the rim width is suitable for the tyre width.
  12. Agreed.. a timing belt every 100k km or 5 or so years is hardly a big deal, it certainly wouldn't put me off buying a car,.
  13. I do mine every 6 months as I don't do a lot of KM.. usually it has done around 5,000km in that time. I do my wife's J31 maxima at the same time, and it does even less KM.
  14. on a sedan the reclining seats are standard. Factory tinted glass is an option I believe.
  15. There has been some with VK56DE (at least in a 350Z), but it is very tight fit and no space left for turbo charging. I suspect you could extra better performance with a boosted VQ37 than an NA VK, as well as being easier to fit.
  16. Don't know for sure, but I expect you should be seeing closer to 10 years before you start to have any issues. Even then, I doubt you would notice much as the cells start to degrade. It would probably be more of an issue when you start seeing individual cells completely fail, as that is likely to throw fault codes and shut down the electric motor side of things.
  17. It will for a bit, but it will adjust. I had 225/45/18 tyres on the front of mine and 245/45 tyres on the rear, I swapped them front to rear to test something, the first few hundred meters VDC when psycho, but sorted itself out. Same thing happened when I swapped them back. Also had this issue when replacing tyres and fitting 245/45 tyres all round. VDC seems to have some way to determine this different wheel speed is normal after a short time.
  18. RB is quite heavy being an iron block. As above, you would be better off building and turbo/supercharging the VQ.
  19. The stock oil cooler should be suitable unless you are pushing it hard (as above, taking it to the track). I don't think there was a 'track' version of the V35, although I believe there was a sports suspension option.
  20. HR is not direct injected. The direct injected engines end with a DD. for example VQ30DD, VR30DDTT, MR16DDT, etc
  21. Kind of surprised that the idea of any tyre protruding past the rim looks 'balloony'. Personally, I would prefer some protrusion so the tyres are first to touch a gutter rather than the rim, but then again, I don't like the stretched look.
  22. There isn't much you can do beyond finding out what is triggering the light. If it is the pump again, take it back to the place that fixed it last time.
  23. I have used 5w-30 in both my VQ35DEs since I have owned them, I live in North Queensland, neither use any oil between changes. My old J30 maxima specified 10W-30 oil, I used that until the day I got rid of it with 300,000km on it, it also used no oil between services. Personally, I would stick with what the manufacturer recommends and only deviate from that if there is a good reason to. (eg, burning oil). That said, 10W-30 or 10W-40 isn't going to hurt in a warm environment, possibly slightly higher fuel consumption though.
  24. Yes, greased as per the instructions that came with them, also used the grease that came with them. For sure, if you are using it in a situation where movement in the normal rubber bushings will be an issue, then it is worthwhile.
  25. try nissandatascan.com The software works with our cars and they have a list of suitable adaptors on the page. Otherwise, buy a consult 2 clone from china. but you will need a windows xp laptop to run it.
×
×
  • Create New...