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sonicii

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Everything posted by sonicii

  1. sonicii
    I really can't understand stupid delivery times like '4 months'... What do you actually need? the part linked above is the steering knuckle as you also specified, which I can't imagine anyone describing as a 'stub axle'. I would think the bearing/hub assy is what most would be referring to as the 'sub axle' However - https://www.amayama.com/en/search?region=112&q=40015AL550 If you need the hub/bearing - https://www.amayama.com/en/search?q=40202AL510 even if you select UAE, it will generally be here within 3 weeks (although perhaps longer considering Christmas/New year break). If you select the Australian supplier, it might get here before Christmas.
  2. sonicii
    If it was normal, it would have been there before the first clutch install. One of my pet hates is car dealers and sometimes mechanics saying 'they all do that, it is normal'..
  3. sonicii
    You will either need to have Nissan program the ECU for the new key with the correct immo card loaded in Consult, or you will need to find out what the BCM pin is, which I believe can be determined from the BCM serial number, but I haven't actually done this myself before.
  4. sonicii
    If you are concerned about its 'pre import' history, order a report from one of the companies that can pull the auction records from Japan, that way you can get an idea if it has had the odo wound back, was a repaired write of, etc. eg http://www.japaneseodometercheck.com/ If you are still interested, get it checked by a mechanic familiar with these cars or 350Zs, tell them it has no service log books and you just want it checked accordingly (compression test, etc).
  5. sonicii
    Not normal for any V35 6MT.. only difference on the CD009 was improved multicone synchos. Have you checked engine mounts/transmission mount, diff mounts? How did the first workshop 'botch' the clutch install? did they possibly cause some damage which is causing the fault and it hasn't been fixed?
  6. sonicii
    40202EG06C http://nissan.epcdata.ru/skyline/pv36/7257-vq35hr/trans/400/40202M/ https://www.amayama.com/en/search?q=40202EG06C http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FRONT-WHEEL-HUB-NISSAN-SKYLINE-V36-2006-40202-EG36C-/181806929756?hash=item2a5489975c:g:CM4AAOSwMmBVqnc1 Personally, I would go genuine, but there as above, there are aftermarket options available.
  7. sonicii
    coupe bonnet won't fit a sedan. (GT8 only ever came in a sedan)
  8. sonicii
    You would need to get the error codes read, those lights are symptoms of many issues, I had the same warnings when I had a bad connection on my throttle pedal connector.
  9. sonicii
    yep.. that is the 298kw version.. we can only hope we get that one, not the 300hp (224kw) version.
  10. sonicii
    true.. but the info was more about the engine rather than what car it is in. I haven't seen any credible information on a factory 336kw version of the VR30DDTT yet. Would be nice if they do release one, but I have my doubts Australia would be the first market to get it. In fact history suggests Australia usually misses out on any tweaked versions they ever build.
  11. sonicii
    Because they are the only 2 formats Nissan have built with the VR30DDTT so far, unless they have some secret version they are going to release into the Aust delivered Q60, but I think that is fairly unlikely. Perhaps they were building a higher output version for the Tau Rouge, and Caradvice.com assumed that is what they were going to use? http://www.boostaddict.com/content.php?7277-Nissan-s-VR30DDTT-twin-turbo-V6-delivers-more-than-advertised-400-horsepower-Q50-Red-Sport-dynos-374-rwhp https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_VR_engine https://conceptzperformance.com/blog/the-vr30dett-nissans-new-twin-turbo-engine/ http://www.drivingenthusiast.net/sec-blog/?p=32297
  12. sonicii
    Since the only come in a 224kw or 298kw flavour.. I can only hope Aust. gets the 298kw version
  13. sonicii
    50% in 5 years is darn good resale value. bought my wife's J31 Maxima at 22 months old with 40,000km for less than 50% new price, but they have poor resale.. most cars will hit 50% after about 3 years and those with good resale, about 4. But we are talking private sale price, not dealer used car prices.. they are always way over inflated.
  14. sonicii
    Use NGK plugs, here is the reference http://ngk-sparkplugs.com/my34-vq25dd-neodi-c-180_5264_6317_6402_6403.html Bad plugs will struggle to ignite a rich fuel mix, which is what you have with a cold engine, so they certainly could be the cause. As for accessing the plug, I was able to replace all the plugs on my 350GT with only removing plastic parts (intake ducting, etc), normal spark plug socket with an 3/8 socket extension did the job fine, there was no need for a special wrench. I wouldn't expect the 250GT to be that different, but I could be wrong. What do you mean the 'back 3'? there are only 2 back plugs, 2 middle and 2 front.. Just hope you don't find oil in any of the spark plug tubes, as that is failed rocker cover gasket, which isn't replaceable without the entire rocker cover.
  15. sonicii
    I have used Amayama plenty of times without issue, but not for anything that large, postage is going to be a killer. If they have stock in UAE, it is usually considerably cheaper for the item, but postage will be considerably more than Japan. Have you tried an auto upholsterer? it will likely be cheaper to have it re-upholstered than replacing it.
  16. sonicii
    how could he know that, given the oldest of the V36 is only just 10 years old now.. Like anything electronic, it is going to be quite hard to predict the lifespan, some might fail before 10 years, others might go for 20 years plus. I wasn't aware of known issues with the V36 stereo like there is with the V35s.. saying that, my 11 year old V35 stereo is still working fine.
  17. sonicii
    I haven't done this, but If the lamp connector is the same, I can't see any reason you can't use the existing S1 HID ballast
  18. sonicii
    the vinyl actually still seems quite flexible, even around the cracks, pushing on it doesn't cause it to crack further or produce new cracks, but it does feel a little 'sticky'. My theory is the vinyl is actually shrinking due to 'who knows what', and that is causing the cracks to appear. I have been using meguairs products since I have had the car, like I have on other cars, but this is the only time I have ever had this issue on a car, thus my assumption it was something used on it earlier in its life. Anyway, I searched the part numbers on epc and it shows the same number for the S2/3 V35 coupe and sedan and Stagea.
  19. sonicii
    I can see the yellow foam backing through the cracks, so it is all the way through the vinyl, I have been very careful to keep the sun off the dash whenever possible (always use a windscreen cover when parked in the sun, and all windows are tinted), same as my old J30 maxima that didn't have any cracking at all when I got rid of it when it was 18 years old, so I can only assume it was treated fairly badly before I got it in 2011. I have been looking out for a 2nd hand dash, but it seems Series 2/3 parts are fairly few and far between. I am also not sure if the coupe dash is the same, I assume they would be, but considering the cost, it isn't worth the risk, unless someone can confirm 100%? Maybe the Stag dash is the same too?
  20. sonicii
    Dash cracking on sedan Has anyone else had this issue, not sure why it is happening on my series 2 sedan, I guess it might have had a harder life before I purchased it in 2011, I always use a windscreen shade if parked in the sun, but as you can see from the pictures, my dash is cracking, it started about 2 years ago, but now is cracking in more obvious places (first location wasn't even where the sun would impact it). Over $1k for a new dash, plus shipping, so I don't really want to go down that path, I was thinking of removing it and trying some of the local auto upholsterers to see if they can put a layer of vinyl over it, if they have something that matches almost exactly, but then I am worried about things like vents and other items not fitting back in. Any ideas?
  21. sonicii
    I believe the Manual diff is a 3.5:1 ratio, but the auto is a 3.3:1. If that is correct, fitting a manual diff will give you slightly better acceleration, but likely worse fuel economy. The manual diff should also be viscous LSD, but that was also an option on the autos.
  22. sonicii
    I am not sure of the requirements on the VQ35HR, but on the DE, the engine needs to be properly warmed up, then there is a pedal position learn, throttle closed position learn, and then the idle air volume learn, they are all done either via consult, or a throttle pedal/ignition key sequence, there is no driving required at all, other than to warm the car up. When you get the sequence right for the idle air volume learn, you should see the idle rpm drop quite low, rise to about 1100rpm and then settle back to the correct idle rpm. If you aren't seeing these symptoms, then the re-learn isn't happening. again assuming the HR is similar to the DE.
  23. sonicii
    If it is anything like the VQ35DE, messing with the throttle body(s) without doing the full re-learn procedure will almost always cause these symptoms, I found that the symptoms would improve greatly if you drove the car until it was fully warmed up, then stopped the engine and re-started it. But when it fully cooled down again, it was back as bad as ever, that was until the full relearn was done, then no problems ever again. So if the issue is reoccurring on your car, it is more likely the mechanic hasn't actually completed the relearn rather than the ECU 'forgetting'. There is a non-consult procedure for the V35, but it involves a bit of accurate timing, waiting for flashing CEL sequences, holding you tongue right, etc.. If the V36 is similar, it would be much much easier If you have access to a consult or good clone.
  24. sonicii
    I am in Qld and found NRMA gave me the best premium.. I just received my 12 month renewal notice - $730 including windscreen cover.
  25. sonicii
    It should help with traction, thus will be beneficial in the snow, but I doubt it will be any better than the RWD version on rough/uneven surfaces as it is still basically the same suspension setup, which isn't designed for off road work.
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