iruvyouskyrine

It is exactly the same result as having a tooth out, if it is far enough out of position.

Why would you want to have your fuel pressure at under 30psi? Or is that standard for mitsubishi? Unless you plan on running 40+psi (but you doing that wouldn't surprise me )

1. Standard RB30 thermostat is 82.6deg if I remember correctly. Should sit around that happily. I suggest doing a proper bleed of the coolant system before anything else. 2. AACV hose goes anywhere between before the throttle body and air filter. Most people run it immediately before the TB. 4. There is no requirement to run a BOV. Personally I have never run one in my 5 years of ownership and none of my mates have ever run them.

The power is fed from a plug next to the washer bottle. It's a big rectangle 8 pin (?) plug and the the two biggest gauge cable is your positive and negative. From memory the white wore with purple trace is positive and black with red trace is negative. Turn your ignition on and prob these pins for power. They are the single ECU power supply.

Does the haltech use the standard Engine wiring harness?

Post good quality detailed pics of the gate. Where did you buy it from and how much.

I'm guessing missing valve seat

Ahh okay, so apart from being completely different and not all of them being interchangeable they are all the same. Got it. Good advice.

Most of the time you don't know if a second hand one works or not. I have had 3 different ones and none work properly.

Yep using amayama.

$173 for a fan hub seems a bit steep though, but I have the same problem, the fan absolutely roars even at low rpm

Do I get a prize for calling it months ago when you first pulled the 30 out?

Please be BEAMS.

Really? Is that absolutely true? Had never heard/seen of it before. What year is S2 R34?

Yes they will fit S13. And no, S13 and R32 LCA's are the same length (290mm of the top of my head)

Ironic seeing as someone just bought one from wiring specialities

Same here! Is that internally gated stao?

That does make for some interesting reading. Any pics of said engine killing bolt?

You are going to need to get a new gearbox centre plate (i believe that is the correct term). The easiest option would be to find a dead RB20 gearbox and take it out of that as it will probably prove to difficult to find a centre plate by itself. Then you can get an upgraded pivot ball from GKtech and a nismo clutch fork. Neither is really needed as it's not *that* comman for them to break f they are lubricated correctly but might be some piece of mind for you. The hardest part is getting the gearbox out.

Not worth mucking around to put the neo in if you don't plan on wringing its neck to be honest. Easiest/cheapest option is buying another standard RB25 bare engine and putting all your bolt on on it and putting it back in the car. You can make some money back by selling your good condition head.

Both. It changes the airflow reading which in turn changes the delivered fuel amount.

Excellent, and when do you need them?

Yeah I remember that. He used some insane weight (something like 1,000,000 viscosity) of RC car oil to fill the diff center or similar. Said it worked a treat.

Quoting for importance.

That is not correct at all. 20/25 are the same. Neo is different. 30 is 6 blade from memory and 26 is seven blade. And N1 is for race applications only as it doesn't flow enough at lower RPM.