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About Yonz

  • Rank
    Rank: RB20DET
  • Birthday September 12

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    Ipswich, QLD

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  • Car(s)
    R31, R33

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  1. Yeah a 3.7 or 3.6 will definitely be the sweet spot for it IMO
  2. It's all set for E85, so once I commit to that it will really shine But at the moment going to E85 is a bit of a pain and I'd like to have a better clutch and the GTR rear end fitted ahead of time, which is more money and time. I just want to drive the thing again for now
  3. Thanks Works a treat and can't complain for only $400 Basically the closeness of the turbine blades to the housing is what grabbed my interest, the old turbo had an easy 5mm gap. See vid below for what I mean. A few other things went into my decision but compared to the old turbo, this Holset is better all round. Old setup on the left, new on the right. Boost coming along a lot earlier despite the turbos being very similar in wheel sizes. Admittedly the head being ported would have had an impact in this as well, but not nearly 1000rpm worth. Also the hall effect sensors have visibly cleaned up the power curve. FYI, I rate PITS and ASG very highly. This pic is not about comparing the 2 shops, simply observing the difference in engine behaviour between my 2 setups.
  4. Update time! Engine is running again and I changed a few things up while it was apart: Switched to a Hall Effect setup for timing, very similar to the setup @HarrisRacing has (Thanks again for the clarification on the wiring mate) Running a Holset HX40 from TurboLab instead of the ProBoost GTX35 Had the head ported while it was off Degreed the cams Drilled out the oil drains to 10mm Made a swirl port and larger header tank Working speedo and a battery isolator Threw in a NPC clutch Heaps of other little things went on but those were the big time killers. Anyway, onto the pics Before fitting the new pump I picked up a busted one for free, which I used as a template to make a bracket for the crank trigger (busted pump not in pics) Took a couple goes to line everything up and still have it clear the balancer, but I got there eventually Tapped a M12 x 1.0 thread into the left support bracket, and just using the 2 supplied slim nuts on the other; all with Loctite. That 12T wheel is from Hi Octane Racing About 2-3mm clearance for the balancer at the closest point The guts of a gutted and free CAS housing rocking a GT101 sensor Managed to use all of the existing bolt holes to secure the sensor itself and fitted the other one just to keep water and whatever else out. Only needed a bit of smoothing out with the die grinder to get it to sit level. Then chopped up a bit of 6mm plastic to secure the body of the sensor and clamp everything down; again Loctite on everything. Didn't really get any pics of the bolts on the cam but it's basically the same as Harris. Grinded down the standard bolts, then got a longer M7 bolt and spaced it out with one M7 nut and 2 (from memory) 1mm washers. All with Loctite and also grinded the bolt face smooth so the letters aren't causing dramas. More for my reference but I'm sure someone else might find this handy. Header tank and swirl pot ready for paint. Already made the brackets and made sure they'd fit, also leak checked. These were more of a welding practice project but I'm happy with how they turned out. Fair bit bigger than the little cylinder ebay items and used all the available space without going too crazy. I have all the dimensions for this if anyone wants them. Swirl pot sitting pretty too. Does clear the bonnet, but only just haha Using a Acewell 3100 dash for tacho and speedo, this is the supplied speedo sensor fitted up off the tailshaft centre bearing. Had to cut and tap a sleeve for the magnet to sit in, probably would have flung off otherwise. Got it to within 5k's for the moment, will dial it in a bit more at the next track day. Holset HX40 sits very nice in the bay, only needed to change the oil drain a tiny bit for it to fit up Most of the hard work done Finally fitting up the BOV, welds slowly improving too All finished! For now anyway
  5. Yeah pretty much, it's an interference fit. The fitment of the pump needs the locating dowels on the block removed as well.
  6. Faintly visible cracking in the pic. It looked pretty impressive with the dye penetrant glowing under the UV light Good news for the other crank though, just waiting on the collar to be fitted
  7. Yeah, well worth doing if you have the patience for it I did the inside of the ridges in the below pic as one sheet, then I layed the whole side of the car from the A pillar back with one sheet; which slightly overlapped the wrap on the centre of the roof. Thanks, a YouTube tutorial was my only previous experience
  8. Aftermarket crank collar with a N1 pump and billet gears I was planning on laying heat reflective tape over it for the first couple track days, to see how it goes before committing to something more substantial. I'll be keeping a close eye on it, but if that isn't good enough I might just bite the bullet straight up. 5 rolls that were 1.5m x 3m each
  9. Dropped off the crank and spline drive to the machinist shop yesterday Unfortunately the crack testing revealed some pretty bad cracking around the No.6 big end and main. Luckily a mate has a good condition crank (will get it crack tested to make sure), so fingers crossed everything goes smoothly with this one Found a pic of one of the last laps before the pump gave out
  10. Sweet as, thanks for that Flywheel is 46mm tall when measured from the outside, and 43mm tall when measured through the flywheel bolt holes
  11. Ripped the engine and box out over the Christmas holidays, everything is looking pretty good considering the failure Had to get the grinder out to cut the cam cap baffle plate nuts off, dam things just spun. Raw Brokerage is the only place I could find online that sell the bolts, anyone know a better place? Clutch is struggling with 4th gear, but it will do until a new turbo setup comes along Big ends are looking healthy A bit of emery paper and the cams will come up a treat Crank will get a polish while it's getting the spline collar installed All the bearings, plastigauge, lube, Loctite, gaskets and fluids are either in the post or sitting in the shed... so as soon as everything arrives I can put her back together again. Hopefully around the start of Feb While I was bored (after ripping everything apart), I started mounting up a front splitter. Curious to see how it will go
  12. Cut up some Lexan and now I have an artsy oil pump on display Will remove the engine and begin a proper tear down on Thursday or Friday, yay...
  13. Spool Imports has been making a spline drive for a couple years now http://www.spoolimports.com/billet-oil-pump-gears/nissan-rb
  14. Tear down BEGIN! Rounding evident on the collar Pump is rooted I think I'll get some Perspex and hang this on my wall... So I'll be removing the crank to fix up the collar (spline drive this time). New bearings throughout and fixing anything else I might find along the way. I get to give myself my own Christmas presents
  15. Headed out to QR last night, unfortunately after an hour of track time the oil pump gave up (suspected) My brother was driving at the time, but gopro footage shows about 3-4 seconds at about 2000rpm before he realised what the alarm was and turned the engine off. Towed back to the pits and (after confirming there was no leaks from hoses and the sump was full) cranked it without ignition which revealed a really fast ticking noise and no build in oil pressure, so I'm pretty confident the pump gears shit themselves for some reason. So... The plan is to remove the oil pump with the engine in the car and see what exactly I'm dealing with. Hopefully the crank collar is ok. Any (relatively) cheap dry sump setups for sale?
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