Mick_o

Members
  • Content count

    2,810
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    19
  • Feedback

    100%

Mick_o last won the day on November 2

Mick_o had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

741 Excellent

About Mick_o

  • Rank
    Rank: RB30E
  • Birthday 07/10/1981

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    EVO 9 with EFR coming soon
  • Real Name
    Mick_O

Recent Profile Visitors

10,136 profile views
  1. Are you willing to go balls deep with custom manifolds, head work and piping etc Birdy? Even then still realize you are talking about a potential 1100hp setup so its going to be laggy lol
  2. Went well...But he couldn't run 35psi? 😩
  3. 6 boob runners are 32mm I.D.
  4. What have you done piggy?! 😂
  5. Awwe poor fiction Dan 😔
  6. I don't really think a basic T3 .82 single scroll setup like GTST boys use is realistically gunna be anymore expensive to setup than if you were to try setting up the twins properly going from stock to stock?? You dont need a super fancy twin scroll single setup to get a better drive outta your R than the twins provide. They really are very easy to improve on lol
  7. Yeah you could never do the work of a polisher by hand haha! So for the clay bar process obviously make sure the car has been washed. Grab your bar and knead it into a size that covers your 4 fingers. For claying you need lubrication (spray detailer) to prevent marring and further adding swirls. Try working in 2ft squares. Add plenty of spray detailer and work in up, down left, right motions not circles. You will feel the clay kinda dragging. Can even sound like sandpaper sometimes on bad cars! Basically work in the above actions till the clay bar slides smoothly over the surface. Use a microfibre cloth to wipe off the spray detailer and move to the next section. Check your clay bar after your section and see what crusty crap is on your bar. After every section you should knead up your bar again so you have a nice clean section to work with! Heres a mad tip too... After you wash your car run your fingertips over your paint.. You will feel how rough it is.. Go grab yourself a plastic sandwich bag or the likes put your hand in the bag and feel the paint again. Let me know what you feel 😉 Do that before and after claying the car to know if you have got all the surface contaminants off ready to polish her up!
  8. Hi mate only clay bar your car if you plan on giving it a full detail. Its basically the 2nd step (after washing) As it will be stripping off any wax or sealants you have on your paint. A clay bar is an abraisive so cuts all the surface decontamination away and those contaminants stick to the clay.. It leaves you with a fresh clean surface ready to start your correction/polishing process. 😊
  9. Correct sir. A solid lump of billet being CNC machined is stronger which is why they can run the higher pressure ratios they do more reliably. Increases production and elimalimates inconsistencies you'd get with castings. What Dan said also cements alot of my dribble on the "twin guys" that wanna do these billet stock housing turbos. These billet wheels require "higher boost" to achieve the extra power they can produce yes? How can this compressor generate the extra boost required if that other lil wheel that comes into contact with the exhaust gases up the back cant spin that billet wheel any faster? So you now require a higher flowing turbine to move the gases out faster to spin that billet wheel faster i would have thought? Well there goes your power gain from the "billet" there right! Is the new fancy aero gunna help increase spool when its in a compressor cover that it wasn't designed to be in? Especially when the inlet to the compressor cover isn't even big enough for me to squeeze bell end into! Now another dream crusher thrown in by Frakzz now the wheels weigh the same? So there goes the lower inertia dream... Now to the expensive bit lol.... So next thing to factor in is you are going to need to upgrade your cores now as the geriatric GT series plastic BB cages that are in your 7's, 9's & 5's aren't going to be up to the task of the faster shaft speeds required for the extra boost OR the extra loads that will be applied to them from this extra boost. WILL there be gains made from new ceramic BB vs the old BB cartridges? Highly unlikely to be measureable i would of thought? I can't lay it out any more basic than that its a costly exercise that simply WILL NOT WORK! You really are pushing a septic tank worth of shit up hill with a tooth pick! I didnt even mention the packaging issue that are also going to work against you either like the "twin turbo" pipe or the super tight bends off the backs of the turbines LOL!!
  10. Interesting Thanks for sharing Frakzz! 👍 I have always been skeptical about billet wheel vs cast weights. A lump of billet is always going to be more dense hence heavier. Even if its made from a lighter material it seems?
  11. Another tip would be play with different combinations of pads and compounds. Dont think you HAVE TO only use a heavy cut compound with a heavy cut pad. Play around a bit. Sometimes you might get the desired level of correction you need with a light cut pad but heavy cut compound for example. The aim of the game is to take the minimal amount of clear off needed to chop out those swirls and scratches 😊
  12. Its an absolute must have mate. I dont run it any higher than on 2 even slower if you have a heavy cut pad. Obviously being rotary they do create alot of heat quite quick so dont apply much pressure or stay stationary long. Generally speaking an orange pad (light/medium cut) will be good enough to correct most defects with an appropriate cut compound for the correction needed. Least that way the softer pad wont generate the friction or heat that can burn paint and cause those "horror stories" you hear of people burning their paint 😊
  13. Lol maybe you should lend him your belt so its long enough for him to reach the ground? 😂