Jump to content
SAU Community


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

31 Excellent

1 Follower

About Pattey21

  • Rank
    Rank: RB25DET
  • Birthday 05/21/1915

Profile Information

  • Gender

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    R33 S2 Skyline
  • Real Name

Recent Profile Visitors

4,623 profile views
  1. So I tested the torque wrench, first at 80Nm based on my torque calibration weight calculation then to 98Nm where the first point in the manuals sequence is before undoing them all to zero. Majority did not move and a couple may have moved 1/16 or less or simply cracked (audible) when I reached the torque spec. To compared I did both the intake cam and harmonic balancer properly (backed off then did up to 15% below ideal. Ie 115Nm then 132Nm. The torque wrench actually turned a reasonable amount, let's say a good 1/8th or enough to confirm I was doing it up more, and compatibly a lot more than it moved on the head. Both the intake cam, harmonic, balancer and idle Tensioner anything around 15% I could noticably torque up more. I even tried approx 102.5-104nM on the head and same result as trying at 98 Makes me think the head is definitely above 80 and that I should leave it as I'm probably in the yield range
  2. Sorry that was worded poorly. If I choose re-doing the torque sequence rather than nipping them up; ie backing off all the head bolts to 0Nm, whether I would need to remove intake or exhaust manifold, due to the weight imbalance (exhaust manifold plus turbo vs intake plenum)
  3. If re-doing the head, besides releasing tension from timing belt, and aux bolt, do the intake and exhaust need to come off. Currently turbo and intake plenum are bolted on
  4. Good morning all, I am in the last stages of putting my car back together and was reading something that made me realize I hadn't had my torque wrench calibrated that I used to do my head. After doing a few weight measurements turns out it's reading low 10-20nM at 100nM. I'm now borrowing a mates Warren and Brown Deflection Torque wrench for the job. Stock top end rebuild OEM gaskets and OEM bolts. Given the process is Torque to 29nM,98Nm, Back off, 25-34Nm, 92-103Nm. And I've essentially under Torqued, Do I 1. just torque to final value if it's under (arbitrary 80Nm) 2. Back of and start again Given I have reach the final torque I am hoping that they haven't TTY get and I can still use the new bolts. Thanks In Advance
  5. Hit it with a bit of scotch brite then 1200. Made a bit of difference but didn't want to get carried away. Feels smooth with a razor but obviously still some marks. Does it need to be perfect when using a OEM headgasket
  6. Hi there, I'm in the process of replacing head gasket (timing belt slipped). I've razor blade remove as much as I can but still not completely clean. Should I use a fine sand paper if so 1000+ or scotch brite etc Cheers
  7. Then proceed to the classifieds and check out my sales thread to get yourself a sweet deal on a replacement turbo!
  8. R33/RB25Det Parts for sale. All removed in serviceable condition in way for upgrades. Rb25 R33 S2 21U turbo- was running 10.5psi minimal shaft play (see vid) $250 Rb25 r33 split dump- has been port matched (to a degree), no boost creep issues $100 Rb25 AFM-$50 Rb25 stock injectors wrapped and still in rail $50 Apexi Safc 2- has a tune for 10.5psi, r34 smic and full 3" exhaust 205rwkw $180 Rb25 bov-$30 Can provide more photos upon request. Parts located in A.C.T happy to post at cost price. Cheers
  9. In the ACT. Pretty unfriendly with imports with regards to inspections
  • Create New...