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About Pattey21

  • Birthday 05/21/1915

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    R33 S2 Skyline
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  1. Good memory. Im playing with mine as it's leak past the injector collars (Taarks top mount kit) on 5/6 but seemed to seal under fuel pressure pushing injectors down. I pulled the rail out a bit to re-lube the o-rings bit I think the process made it worse and I'll need to replace the o-rings regardless.
  2. Thanks Hardsteppa, I had to get new boots as I "massaged" it a bit before thing the press idea. I have to do the rear ones at some point so I'll pressing then
  3. I'm actually in the same boat right now. What did you find as the leak?
  4. Hi all, I had a shop press in a pair of road safe ball joints into my front LCAs and they said when I grease them to then slide the circlip over the top. I tried this yesterday however I am unable to get the boot over the second ridge (see pic) the metal sleeve at the base of the boot won't fit past. Has anyone done these recently or used Roadsafe ball joints specifically. Cheers
  5. So I tested the torque wrench, first at 80Nm based on my torque calibration weight calculation then to 98Nm where the first point in the manuals sequence is before undoing them all to zero. Majority did not move and a couple may have moved 1/16 or less or simply cracked (audible) when I reached the torque spec. To compared I did both the intake cam and harmonic balancer properly (backed off then did up to 15% below ideal. Ie 115Nm then 132Nm. The torque wrench actually turned a reasonable amount, let's say a good 1/8th or enough to confirm I was doing it up more, and compatibly a lot more than it moved on the head. Both the intake cam, harmonic, balancer and idle Tensioner anything around 15% I could noticably torque up more. I even tried approx 102.5-104nM on the head and same result as trying at 98 Makes me think the head is definitely above 80 and that I should leave it as I'm probably in the yield range
  6. Sorry that was worded poorly. If I choose re-doing the torque sequence rather than nipping them up; ie backing off all the head bolts to 0Nm, whether I would need to remove intake or exhaust manifold, due to the weight imbalance (exhaust manifold plus turbo vs intake plenum)
  7. If re-doing the head, besides releasing tension from timing belt, and aux bolt, do the intake and exhaust need to come off. Currently turbo and intake plenum are bolted on
  8. Good morning all, I am in the last stages of putting my car back together and was reading something that made me realize I hadn't had my torque wrench calibrated that I used to do my head. After doing a few weight measurements turns out it's reading low 10-20nM at 100nM. I'm now borrowing a mates Warren and Brown Deflection Torque wrench for the job. Stock top end rebuild OEM gaskets and OEM bolts. Given the process is Torque to 29nM,98Nm, Back off, 25-34Nm, 92-103Nm. And I've essentially under Torqued, Do I 1. just torque to final value if it's under (arbitrary 80Nm) 2. Back of and start again Given I have reach the final torque I am hoping that they haven't TTY get and I can still use the new bolts. Thanks In Advance
  9. Hit it with a bit of scotch brite then 1200. Made a bit of difference but didn't want to get carried away. Feels smooth with a razor but obviously still some marks. Does it need to be perfect when using a OEM headgasket
  10. Hi there, I'm in the process of replacing head gasket (timing belt slipped). I've razor blade remove as much as I can but still not completely clean. Should I use a fine sand paper if so 1000+ or scotch brite etc Cheers
  11. Then proceed to the classifieds and check out my sales thread to get yourself a sweet deal on a replacement turbo!
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