Pattey21

Hectic few weeks at work. I made sure to clear/check the diff vent but I will check the breather hose. My guess for it being the half shaft seal location is based on filling it prior and lying it on the damaged side overnight and it did not weep. ill have another look underneath/ check the breather hose

I didn't inspect it thoroughly but my impression when cleaning it prior to lubrication, was the it was "serviceable" but my focus was more on the seal itself.

So i refilled it and layed it on its side for a day (new seal side down) no leak, went for a drive today and its weeping. Is it possible to be weeping from the half shaft seal, do the take time to bed in? The seal cam pre-greased in the centre and i lubricated the shaft prior to install.

Put oil around the outer edge besides the score where I used permatex black. Time will tell but went back together alright/oil filled

Just taking the edges off it

I was thinking 800?

Just by sanding with fine grit or a special tool?

So I was blaze' with using the seal puller. I can feel the marks, what can I do so it doesn't leak ie silicone at that point?

Cheers I've got the superpro SPF2687K on my old subframe. I plan to swap it across to the R34. Interesting though the Aus website doesn't list as an option but the Europe one does https://www.superproeurope.com/part.number.cfm?partnumber=SPF2687K https://www.superpro.com.au/show-product/superpro-bushing-kit/orphan-SPF2687K

Good evening, I'm currently replacing my r33 gts-t rear subframe and have come across a local R34 GTT subframe. Can I use the R34 bare subframe in and with my R33 running gear. From pictures the look. The same except more bracing on R34

Okay great, thanks a lot

Good afternoon, I've got a leak out of one of the half-shafts and need to replace the seal. I've searched for a guide/another thread, nut can't seem to find one (happy to be corrected) What is the method for removing/reinstalling the half shaft after replacing the seal. Cheers

Thread revival but better than starting another. Mines just started doing the same. However coincidentally happened after I changed from Nulon 10W-40 to HPR 10-50w, but also resoldered tacho. I double checked oil level and also tried re-cleaning all terminals on the flexible cluster PCB. Went from 0.5kg/cm idle and ~3.5-4@highway cruise pre oil change and cluster work too ~1.5kg/cm at idle to 2.5-3kg/cm at cruise I can't imagine this could be just the oil and potentially noticing more after doing a few changes. Has anyone tried Fuelmiser CPS141 oil pressure sensor. It's about half the cost of the stupid OEM cost. Cheers

Good memory. Im playing with mine as it's leak past the injector collars (Taarks top mount kit) on 5/6 but seemed to seal under fuel pressure pushing injectors down. I pulled the rail out a bit to re-lube the o-rings bit I think the process made it worse and I'll need to replace the o-rings regardless.

Thanks Hardsteppa, I had to get new boots as I "massaged" it a bit before thing the press idea. I have to do the rear ones at some point so I'll pressing then

I'm actually in the same boat right now. What did you find as the leak?

Hi all, I had a shop press in a pair of road safe ball joints into my front LCAs and they said when I grease them to then slide the circlip over the top. I tried this yesterday however I am unable to get the boot over the second ridge (see pic) the metal sleeve at the base of the boot won't fit past. Has anyone done these recently or used Roadsafe ball joints specifically. Cheers

So I tested the torque wrench, first at 80Nm based on my torque calibration weight calculation then to 98Nm where the first point in the manuals sequence is before undoing them all to zero. Majority did not move and a couple may have moved 1/16 or less or simply cracked (audible) when I reached the torque spec. To compared I did both the intake cam and harmonic balancer properly (backed off then did up to 15% below ideal. Ie 115Nm then 132Nm. The torque wrench actually turned a reasonable amount, let's say a good 1/8th or enough to confirm I was doing it up more, and compatibly a lot more than it moved on the head. Both the intake cam, harmonic, balancer and idle Tensioner anything around 15% I could noticably torque up more. I even tried approx 102.5-104nM on the head and same result as trying at 98 Makes me think the head is definitely above 80 and that I should leave it as I'm probably in the yield range

Okay no worries.

Sorry that was worded poorly. If I choose re-doing the torque sequence rather than nipping them up; ie backing off all the head bolts to 0Nm, whether I would need to remove intake or exhaust manifold, due to the weight imbalance (exhaust manifold plus turbo vs intake plenum)

If re-doing the head, besides releasing tension from timing belt, and aux bolt, do the intake and exhaust need to come off. Currently turbo and intake plenum are bolted on

Good morning all, I am in the last stages of putting my car back together and was reading something that made me realize I hadn't had my torque wrench calibrated that I used to do my head. After doing a few weight measurements turns out it's reading low 10-20nM at 100nM. I'm now borrowing a mates Warren and Brown Deflection Torque wrench for the job. Stock top end rebuild OEM gaskets and OEM bolts. Given the process is Torque to 29nM,98Nm, Back off, 25-34Nm, 92-103Nm. And I've essentially under Torqued, Do I 1. just torque to final value if it's under (arbitrary 80Nm) 2. Back of and start again Given I have reach the final torque I am hoping that they haven't TTY get and I can still use the new bolts. Thanks In Advance

Thanks for the replies all

Hit it with a bit of scotch brite then 1200. Made a bit of difference but didn't want to get carried away. Feels smooth with a razor but obviously still some marks. Does it need to be perfect when using a OEM headgasket

I blocked them all up before starting