andres14oj

been a few years since i put this project in the back burner. i managed to get the r33 strut towers welded in place before life got in the way. huge thanks to @Shoota_77 for all his help providing measurements that otherwise would have been next to impossible to obtain here in the states. front bcnr33 subframe is half way installed too, still got to reinforce the front frame rails and make the cutouts for the front axles. the pandemic retarded prices have forced me to change plans and go with an rb25det awd instead of the rb26. And to think back when I started this thread i could have gone with the rb26 for the same price... engine and tranny's already sitting in my shop. anyway, i guess the point of this post is to thank you for your responses regarding the attesa system control suggestions. I'll be going with the full race ets pro like some of you suggested. will be taking on this project very soon here. might start a build thread thanks again

sorry, i meant to say "engine really was an rb25det neo", site wont let me edit my post again... and going back to look at the pictures on their site, you're right, the rb25det neo it was originally mated to doesnt have the traction control throttle body, just has like a block off plate. and not all awd transmissions can possibly be the same. r34 gtr is the only one with six gears for starters. mine has a ribbed case that's different than the 32 gtr one. did nissan build its own transmissions other than the getrag? is this thing as strong as a r32/33 gtr one? im attaching pictures of the original 25det neo/5 spd awd combo, the tranny now in my possesion, and the 25det s2 as a plus just to show off how clean of an engine i scored. i still cant believe it 😭 almost makes you want to baby it... almost 😈

old thread but i think relates to my question: i bought a 5 speed awd transmission that was removed from an rb25det neo. supposedley the combo had come put of an r34, but the sellers didnt really know shit, so who knows. engine really was a 25de neo, i saw it when they were still mated 👀 im mating that transmission to an s2 rb25det, 'cause it's already hard enough to find parts here in the US, let alone for a neo... question is, what transmission do i have and how strong is it? i had read that awd rb25det r33's came essentially with an r32 gtr transmission, and i had the chance to get an r32 gtr transmission for the same price, but i opted for this one instead 'cause i was also getting the engine from them and being newer i thought it would be better. it's stamped 344#1 on the left hand side of the bellhousing and has way more ribs that the regular r32 gtr one. been looking for info on it like crazy for hours and havent found anything. finally, who manufactures it? will post pictures tomorrow TIA

Gotcha, i was forgetting these are inputs for the attessa ecu. totally makes sense

brain fart question time: why must front and back final rations match in a system with a variable torque split transfercase? lets say we're using a torque split controller and we have a constant f/r torque split. i understand the importance in a conventional transfercase with a fixed split, but other than having a bad torquesplit gauge reading, and maybe not reaching a full 50/50, how would this affect the awd system? i can see a problem using a lower ratio on the front during 50/50 making the front wheels turn faster, but how does having a higher front and lower rear affects it? flame suit on....

to the top thanks for the info. Doing a conversion myself on an s13 with the help of a f**king badass member from this forum. Will probably start a build thread towards the end. Question, op, did you cut the legs above the front subframe to clear the axles during full compression? The point was already touched by another member who posted a picture. It removes a lot of strength from the legs, almost cutting them in half. If so, how did you reinforce the legs?

ok so i finally found a website with oem part numbers and looks like they are compatible

Are r34 25gt four front axles the same as gtr? And are they interchangeable with the r33? splines, bolt pattern, strength, abs ring? Hate to start a new thread but Im having a hard time finding that info online

More info on this please. This will be very helpful

lookie what i found here...

sweet. Thanks a lot man!

Ok everyone. I've been in the lookout for bcnr33 parts here in the states with no luck. No luck with canada either, and it seems that shipping from your side of the pacific would kill any good deal on a complete stripped front clip, not to mention bcnr33 full partouts aren't very common. Got a question for you: does the part in red also apply for the r33 gtr and non-gtr? If things keep going this way, I may just have to settle for swapping the inner guards only and modifying the frame rails like I had originally planned. And if the non-gtr r33 inner guards are the same as the gtr ones they might just be easier to find.

rather than starting a new thread, I'll just ask in here: Does anyone know of any affordable method of shipping big packages worldwide without a hurry? Could I be lucky enough to meet someone in here who does this for a living and could help? Reason I ask is because I came across this deal which seems about perfect for me to get started with this project. That is if I can import it to the states without breaking the bank. Check it out: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R33-GTR-BCNR33-Radiator-Support-Bare-Front-Half-Cut-Chassis-4/382161654161?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D03206c1f31d64348a04528a3eded1805%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D382161654161%26itm%3D382161654161&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A5d4700bb-69c8-11e8-b7b8-74dbd1803b23|parentrq%3Ad6ca97911630a8672e223f01fff60608|iid%3A1 I've been having trouble finding r33 gtr complete half cuts here in the states. The rest of the major components such as complete subframes and powertrain can be obtain reasonably easy. That deal would be perfect to modify an s-chassis. Thanks

Interesting, didn't know this was a known problem. Thanks for the tip. about the swapping of the entire rails with strut towers, that's a thought. Hadn't really consider it, and I still think modifying the stock rails and welding on just the strut towers would be easier, but your suggestion is something to seriously consider.

I do realize the frame rails on the front where the subframe mounts is different on both cars. That's why I posted that picture of the modified s13 rails, to show what I have planned in mind, measure, cut and re-inforce. Not only do the rails have to be modded to clear the front driveshaft, but if Im not mistaked, not all the mounting points where the subframe bolts down are at the same level, correct? Ive been looking at these sheets. First one's for the s13. Unfortunately the one for the 33 has really low resolution and some of the numbers and measuring points are very hard to read. Anybody's got a better version? On your second point, I am leaning more towards the 33 components. I have read what you're saying about its superiority over the 32, and like I said, the newer the model, usually the better the condition. And yes, I would be looking at welding in new strut towers. That probably will be the second hardest part of the project. But if done correctly and according to the dimensions from whichever model I grab them from (r33 hopefully), that plus the addition of the subframe with all of its original components should give me pretty much a gtr suspension, no? Ok, so the 32 attesa system is pretty slow and it was vastly improved with its successors. Guess that also leaves the 32 attesa out of the question. About an aftermarket controller. You guys don't think that would be a little overkill? Im talking about a stock engine here and a car that wont see much track use, if any at all. I have read that tuning this system is some serious business, especially during launch and decel, front diffs flying out of the oil pan and shit... So, for these reasons, I think a stock system would work just fine for me. Also, we can't start assuming our old electronics are crap because of age. Remember, I would also be running a stock engine ecu. I also run an early z32 ecu on my rb25 s14. I have worked on cars for some time now, and I have to say, I rarely come across bad electronic units, unless somebody's done something wrong and messed them up. I believe these are solid, built to last parts. I lmao everytime "mechanics" want to solve every issue replacing the ecu. Never fails. They hit a little snag, and they go straight to the ecu, only to find out a few hundred bucks later that that wasn't the problem. Plenty of these on my side of the country. I think that it's a safe investment if you are willing to loose a chassis. Think of it this way, I would have a complete powertrain and drivetrain out of a gtr that can be sold as "running". And although it would be a super fun project (this time I will leave painting out of the equation, that really is a pita...), I would be expecting a good performer at the end. If done properly, perfectly fitted front strut towers and front subframe, and properly wired attesa system, what would make you doubt the performance of such a project? I really appreciate the help, thanks everyone!

beautiful, that is exactly what I wanted to hear. thanks! Thanks! That looks like an epic build, but nothing of which I have in mind. Like I said, I know of aftermarket controllers, including full race's, but like I previously said, Im trying to figure a way out to make this as bolt-on as possible and as close as possible to a stock bnr32 or bcnr33. I think it should be fairly straight forward to bolt on and wire up the stock attesa system and weld on the stock strut towers out of either a 32 or 33 onto an s-chassis, as opposed to using an aftermarket controller and front strut adapters. Which by the way, how easy is it to find people parting out their chassis willing to cut out and ship their strut towers over seas on this forum? I;m wondering why I haven't come across any builds where people use the stock attesa system on a different chassis. Am I missing something here? Imo, without the abs system, it looks pretty straight forward as long as you have all the parts. If I've done my research correctly, the attesa system is pretty capable compared to other similar systems in stock form, correct? even with today's tech. And honestly guys, this, the electronics part, is what's got me thinking about going through with this project. Because regardless of the chassis dimensions (which we know the 32 and 13 are pretty damn close), the attesa system will try to compensate to deliver torque f/r properly to keep the chassis from loosing traction, right? Please, tell me fellas, convince me to not go through with this: If I gather all the parts, mechanical parts, sensors, actuators, relays, ecu and everything else except abs crap, would an s13 function properly with this system? Or at least decently...

Badass, thanks guys! So, according to the research I've done, when deleting the abs on a 32 or 33, after removing the actuator from the engine bay, the electrical connectors that connect to this actuator can just stay disconnected and it will not affect the attesa system. Can anybody confirm? Ah and yes, the n1 is what I was referring to, I said v-spec hahaha

Hello everyone! Not sure if I introduced myself before. Name's Andres, from the US, the great state of Texas. I've been into s13's and s14's for a while now. My latest projects are an s13 with a stock rb25det which I'm currently working on and near completion, working on paint right now. My other is an s14 with an rb25det with bolt ons which I currently daily drive, and boy what a joy that is. Here's a couple of pictures of both: Anyway, I am here today to bother you searching for knowledge from the people who know the mighty gtr more indepth and speak the same language. Some freaking how, an idea of swapping the entire powertrain and drivetrain from either a 32 or 33 gtr into an s13 has gotten into me and I can't shake it off. Complete with the attesa system. Now, the plan is to keep everything stock, turbos and tune, just the typical fmic, exhaust and filters, and also keep the car as stock looking as possible. And yes, I realize the level of difficulty this task represents, but that's only part of what's attracting me to it. The plan is to swap the complete front and rear subframes along with the front strut towers. After reading for a while it seems that the geometry of the r33 suspension is far superior to that of the r32. Parts are also newer which means that generally parts should be in better condition, and the engine doesn't have the same oil problems the r32 does. To be honest, the fitting of the parts sounds like a lot of fun to me: measuring, cutting, welding. I've been going through chassis measurements for s13, r32 and r33, and it doesn't really seem very challenging. I have also been pricing stuff... thank god I'll be selling both of my 240sx's soon. There are a few threads on different sites of people who have done it, unfortunately they are years old and all the pictures are down, and you all know how much pictures can help. Here's a couple that I found from a fellow member from this site, truly inspiring, Im sure you all know who he is: Ok, I'll get to the point. I need info regarding the electronics of the attesa system, how it works with the abs system to be specific (assuming I won't be using the r32 v-spec or whichever it is that don't use abs). I know the attesa system works together with the abs system, but Im having a little trouble understanding how people delete their abs on their gtr's. I know the abs pump can be bypassed using kit's sold online which includes brake lines, but according to multiple sources the rest of the abs system including electronics, have to stay for the attesa system to work properly. I've been trying to understand this diagram. Can anybody tell me to which model it belongs? Now, before we continue, I know that there are aftermarket controllers out there, but I am not interested. To put it simply, I am not looking to get anything re-tuned. I want to bolt eveything and wire everything on, and have an attesa system on an s13 to work as similar as possible to a gtr minus the abs. According to that diagram, the attesa connects directly with the abs actuator. I know there's a pump in the engine bay and an abs ecu, by the attesa ecu in the trunk, iirc? I know the pump in the engine bay has an electrical connector. To which unit does the attesa ecu connect directly? Or is it both? I know the attesa ecu connects directly to the wheel sensors, g sensor, engine ecu, attesa actuator/solenoids, but I'm having difficulty understanding how it connects to the abs. Can anybody in here help me with that? Also, would anybody happen to know where I can find a fsm for an r33?

Well, it's been over a month now since I bent my vent tube up slightly, and still having the same issue. As much as I love this blue stuff, I might have to go a different route... I was also thinking maybe the baffles inside the tranny. I'll look into that mobile mobilubeGX. Any other recommendations?

Let me revive this thread. I've been having this issue with my rb25. Oil leaking out of my tranny breather hose. Yesterday I changed my fluid, thinking that maybe my shockproof lightweight had worn out and become even thinner and this would fix it. I also added a small water/oil separator at the end of the hose in the engine bay, like someone in this thread suggested a long time ago. I though this would fix it and it would take forever to fill the separator/filter. Well, today I popped the hood to check on my filter, and... So, after doing further research I came across this thread from '10. https://aus300zx.com/xenforo/index.php?threads/oil-from-gearbox-vent.300868/ Very interesting. One member mentions how having a bent vent tube pointing downwards can cause this problem. I did noticed mine is bent a bit, downwards. I will bend it up a bit as soon as I get a chance, hopefully this solves my problem. I just thought I'd share this in case anyone out there is having this problem. I will report the results.

Name's Andres, from the states, texas to be exact. I drive a 98 s14, yesss, left hand drive, and i like it that way.. I just did a rb25 swap on it and have been gathering a bunch of info from this site, so i figure i say "hi" and maybe stick around, oh and to thank you for such a great site. I've been having a few issues with the rb, recently had to turn down the boost from 10 to stock because i bealive i was hitting rich n retard, took me a while to figured that out, but since the problem is mostly gone i believe that's what it was, guess this crappy ecu's dont like very high flowing upgrades. Im still having a few issues with my afr's, still gotta check my afm and get a new o2 sensor. All in all so far i like this swap but still got to get it as perfect and reliable as possible 'cause this car's my dd and takes me everywhere. I also have all the a/c hooked up and charged, just need to figure a few cables out On with some pix and mod list, everything has been done by me including wiring and brakets. Car's sitting about an 1 1/2" lower now 98 240sx 85mm apexi exhaust am performance elbow/downpipe (originally screamer pipe, but re-routed it into the exhaust, wayy to loud for my taste..) hollowed out cat apexi power intake filter cheap ebay vertical flow fmic recirculated greddy type s bov shaftmasters 1 piece aluminum driveshaft aem wideband bkr6e to .028 walbro 255 d2 coilovers z32 brakes all around, hps pads upfront seibon cf hood z33 base rims