IMPORTS ONLY

these still available and have you come down on price at all?

nah mullumbimby

Finally got my car back from my tuner after 7 MONTHS! LMFAO (shouldn't have told him im currently unlicensed and to take his time but on the other hand freed up garage space) managed to acquire a few parts in this time as well just put in BC BR Gold coilovers so i finally have some adjustability as well as camber arms all round swapped out the craft square mirrors for some east bears finally got some plates to match TKR32 - TommyKaira R32 Apexi exhaust R34 GTR Vspec II front seats (yet to go in) Greddy Front brakes and Greddy 2 peice rotors (yet to go in) GFB G-Force II boost controller Ended up going with a Microtech LT-16cbecause of the price difference and how much easier they are to tune time wise Ended up with 400HP at all four which isnt as high as i was after but it is a fairly safe tune with room to tweak with someone who knows GTRs better Heres some pics with it pretty low and wide since its not getting driven much

yeah just for now because i want to get it running mint so it can at least be driven but will go haltech later once i have the money spare, need to sell one of my other cars

just gotta get 1 more afm and am just going to get the issue sorted, swap to z32s and a bigger fuel pump which should get to 400hp which will do for now, but first gotta pay rego in like 2 weeks and im now doing uni so my weekly funds from work have become a lot less so might take a month to get around to everything

still havent hide time to get the tune done but did mess around with some bits for fun and finally got a camera to play with

id prefer to keep it stock for less engine bay clutter, had a dodgy set up before and i went back to stock

at 4000 rpm the afms are on 2.0 volts, didnt test what they were on with the old afms because they were reading a difference in voltage even on idle so knew one was bad, and i cleaned these ones before putting them in so dont have a reading from before hand, and now the voltage is much closer only ever out by 0.1 V if that so im assuming these are good, and have never had oil dripping out of the bovs before either, is there really much point in running a catch can set up or is the factory return set up fine?

so im still chasing this little issue before i take it back for a tune, got some second hand AFMs cleaned them and put them in but still have the same issue, they are a lot closer in volts compared to the last pair so im assuming there good and its something else thats causing the miss when boost comes on around 4k maybe spark plugs?? as coil packs are less then 5000 ks old? will get in there in the next couple of days to have a look in the mean time can anyone think of what else could cause this, also just replaced the TPS

soo has anyone had their wiper washer bottle keep draining in less then a hour and not leak out of the bottle at all, im 99% sure theres no leaks out of the bottle pulled it out and tested it and put it back in and filled it up and can watch the water go down but not not a drop in the engine bay under the reservoir ?? so must have a leak in the line right? but i cant see any drops of water come out under the car so not sure if its worth getting too deep looking for it haha. i might just do a relocation to the boot like this guy http://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/01/washer-bottle-relocation-and.html and run the rear wiper spray to the intercooler with all new lines throughout

figured out one of my AFM's is acting up and thats whats messing with the tune so im just geting another pair to wack in and get the car running mint again for the mean time while i save, also noticed a bit of oil in the intake piping is there a reason to worry? previously had a catch can set up but removed it

what the car?

so i have a slightly new plan after calling up some tuners and having a chat, going to run a haltech instead of microtech swap out the manual boost control for an electronic duel stage get the new mafless tune and just got for a single 044 intank fuel pump because i dont really need the full fuel set up for a streeter, now just need to save the pennies!

yeah 2k of just jap mise well do it could get 800 back for the apxi fc the 600 i didnt spend on new afms and sell the old ones will pretty much give me the 2k ill start getting onto it asap, have you got any ideas on a good fuel set up to run?

havent really thought about changing ECUs mainly because im not too familar with them, only just getting to know the apexi power fc now how much can you generally pick up a haltech ecu for and they will mean i can run a mafless tune hey? id be spending close to 600 on just the afms anyway and if i ran a tune with no afms theres another 1-200 i could get off the stock afms which would be close to to the price of a new unit im guessing (just having a ook now) and are there any other benifits a haltech would have over the apexi power FC?

For some unknown reason my current tune is acting up and running lean, splutters on boost and engine light is on so ill have to take the car back for another dyno session which is a bit annoying but gives me a good enough excuess to go Z32 AFMs and get a propper fuel set up to get close to 500HP anyone got any info on what a good fuel pump set up is to run on GTRs aiming for 500HP+, was thinking on keeping the walbro 255 intake pump with a added surgetank and bosch 044 in the boot, mise well get it right the first time just not too sure what is best.

lol maybe just thinking about buying a house

missile switch is for boost settings 0.8 bar or 1.2 bar, got pulled over yesterday and the cop just needed a powered trip, got me for not wearing my glasses $250 and said my cars not regod because i live in NSW with a NSW license but have qld plates and rego because i have it "garaged" in qld, he gave me a warning and said if i do it again $650 on the spot fine, called the RTA in the morning sorted it and now its all legit and a nsw defect will be usless and wont carry over to qld so basically i cant get stung in NSW for any of the mods ect since its all legit in qld. plus where i live highway patrols only come to town like once a month, this is the first time ive been pulled over in about 3 years of driving slammed imports so i dont really want to hide all the switches ect, carpet mats are to come in future!! but i need to finish off my chrysler 300c now that the GTR is running mint

tommy kaira spec

so ended up listening to you guys and have got everything sorted now, thanks for the help. main problem was my old boost controller was failing and was set at 18 psi no matter what so thats what would have blown my stock turbos in the end, after taking it to get those parts installed found out that the afms were dud so had to stick with the stock ones and dropped the blow offs and am still using stock but did the fuel reg, rail and injectors with the tune to suit the -7 turbos and hollowed out the cat to give the exhaust some better flow. ended up with 280 hp on 0.8 bar boost and 350 hp on 1.2 bar boost with a pretty safe tune that im happy with, and now just using a duel stage turbosmart boost controller for the moment im happy with the power as its reliable and gets on full boost pretty quick, later ill do the Z32 AFMS and a better fuel pump set up to get over the 450 mark

considering no one mentioned anything when i asked for advice a month before i purchased them, then as soon as i did purchase them you both seem to be more off my choice and want to rant about it then help. they were $300, i couldn't care less and will live with my decision haha.

he said it may have been constantly recirculating or something but that was when we weren't 100% sure if i had blow a turbo or not, the money has already been spent and im not sweating it so i dont see why i wouldn't use them, plus its just one less 25 year old part on the car that could fail with age, thats how i look at it. and yeah they probably will, can you remember off the top of your head where gtr afms max out? and any idea where a 255 lph pump would max

extreme TCS off ebay for like $200