m35stagea

This can all be changed within the ecu logic. The problem in the past is that people have manually swapped cars, and the ecus are sitll running the automatic logic functions. It isnt going to end well unless these things are changed.

The 2nd gear jerkiness, is a standard for the shiftkit for a lot of people. It can be quite clunky. The transmission is 'adaptive' and it will take a while to drive and for it to 'relearn'. Sadly when you clear the ecu etc it doesnt actually clear the tcm. I am unsure of anythign besides consult being able to clear the parameters also. As for the rest of your sumptoms are you having any other issues? Only time ive had the dash dissapear is when my IPDM got wet, that also made the gearbox run full line pressure constantly.

buy nissan data scan 2 and the equivalent vag cord you can log in to check error codes

Got the shits with stock afm and instability in the nm25 so trialing the z33 r35 unit.

I run akebonos as well. They make the biggest difference but f**k that unsprung weight is huge.

Useless blocking it off tbh

Just throw it in the bin.

I just sent one to the uk with tracking for exchange it was roughly $557aud. If you want to chat about it send me a message on my fb page as i will see it sooner.

Theres some reviews on the page

Why It has this option.

You need datascan 2 for your car i think.

I doubt youll need anyhting but nissan datascan can reprogram.

Vq25dd ecu reflash Can I get a show of hands please...

http://xanavi.ru

Nope

Yes because you said you replaced the sensors. Perhaps the cam advance wasnt working before? Am I talking to myself here?

I think cars gone guys

It will be the same as touring 350z

the 'four'badge on the rear?

Its fine and normal. If its the noise Im talking about, The cams dont seem to advance initially when cold (i have found from my logs showing 0 degree across the whole rev range when first starting up). I can try and record mine for you it sounds like a clunk almost like slack in a centrebearing noise. When you disconnect the solenoid you are not activating the advance. thats why it goes away.

If its a single clunk its going to be the cam advance. If its a repeated clunk clunk then its going to be the mechanism. I have changed my intake timing to advance earlier so i hear it when i put my foot down basically from idle it is quite loud and would sound like something is wrong id you didnt know what it was.

These people would of never seen a vq25det in their lives

What sort of rattle? You will get a loud click sound at around 2300ish rpm thats when the intake cam advances from 0-30* its quite pronounced sound and cant miss it. What oil are you using? 10-40

Coilovers arnt stiff almost feels stock

usually its the thermister that goes not atually the afm itself. But that does cause problems because it gives the engine no inlet temp reading.