ajmck

From memory they had to wire the TPS to the auto ECU. The Link also uses a MAP sensor so that had to be wired in, so there was a bit of extra work. The added bonus thou is as it doesn’t say Apexi on the box it probably works out the same $$ to have one wired in and tuned.

Arkon I'm running a Link in my car and it works a treat... Gears are smooth 1st to 2nd and on all the down changes, you couldn't even tell it was an aftermarket ECU. However, an ECU is only as good as the tuner, so I’m not sure if there’s anyone in WA that is awesome at it. I had mine fitted at AVO here in Victoria. They recommended them cause that’s what they feel most comfortable tuning, so that’s what i went with. You say wolf 3d V4 won’t support the auto?? I thought I read somewhere SST was tuning them??

G’day all!! I had the rather unpleasant experience of having a tree fall on my car over the weekend… Not to bad as the main trunk only grazed the rear bar, and there is really only cosmetic damage to about 80% of the car. However on the upside this means the good people at the insurance company are paying for my car to have a complete re-spray!! Aren’t they just the best!! So my question to you all is, preferably in the Vic metro area, who sells decent body kits? I’m looking for ideally a replica R33 GTR kit to fit to a 93 R33 GTS-T, however I like the look of the 400R also. Not 100% sure but the 400R has the same rear wing as the GTR?? Any help would be most appreciated.

Good work MJ when you can get the $$ together i can't recommend highly enough getting it dynoed!! I just had a Link ECU installed on my auto (running a pod, FMIC, and a 3" exhaust from the turbo back and using the standard boost solenoid) last week. BEST MOD EVA!! I got just under a 40rwkw gain. They used a TPS to control the gear change and is smooth as!! Only drama I’ve got is its a bit more difficult to start takes longer to fire?? Apparently it’s to do with the map sensor i don't know weather you noticed that?

Yeah i had a fun experience with mine as well Driver, 5 hours my ass... I've had mine on for about 2 months now and the piping is already starting to bubble, its not fazing me that much not to concerned with the look as long as its doing its job!! The thing i was most peeved about was there was no return for the standard boost solenoid in the in let manifold and when i rang powerdigger they just said yeah you'll have to that yourself. I did take the opportunity to remind him that this was a "kit" custom built for R33's so.... That got me no where so out came the drill. Works good now thou so can't complain really. And had a Link ECU installed the other day and the dyno tuner and i where both impressed with the combined packages result so all well that ends well... for the time being.

We made just over 1000Nm 2 weeks ago on AVO's dyno in our R32 GTR.

Dude if he's a registerd used car dealer he has to have a LMCT no. if he wasn't plastering that number all over his buissiness cards sign work ect. hes either not a a registered dealer or hella dodge!! Anywho if he is a registered dealer get incontact with VACC as they will be most interested in the situation as there are very strict guildlines into suck things. After that contact the ACCC and then pursue leagal advice. Its guys like that give the industry a bad name....

Well its quite strange. I'm not intirely sure. I plumbed the vaccum hose back into the inlet manafold. then went round the car with a test light finding little. then i realised that as i'd blown the fuseable link that the main fuse would be blown so i replaced it with the air con one. But then before planning a trip to Nissan to get ripped off... i replaced the original one it started... so?????????? who knows. but i doubt the problems "fixed".

ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Go you good thing

Andy thoughts??

Having spent the weekend installing my FMIC i finally got all the pipes square and clamped down and i thought. I'll fire her up just to make sure she still woks. But to my dismay. It turned over and almost started but wouldn't fire. Its then I realised id forgotten to disconnect the battery before starting work and i'd shorted the 25A fuse for the radiator fan. Replacing it with the power window one next to it didn't help. Exact same result. Engine turns over wants to start then doesn't. I then noticed i hadn't connected one of the small vacuum hoses that mounts on to a valve on the inlet pipe, my "kit" didn't have this mounting and when i called the company and asked WTF he said its cool i can just use a t piece from the small hose off the black canister behind the passenger side head light as the is feed into the throttle body its self. Having done this and not working (same result) i packed it in for the night. then 20 mins ago i got home thought i'd give it another shot and it fired idled for 5 secs then cut out. Originally i thought it must of been an electrical fault ie blown fuse, but having fired i now think that maybe that vacuum hose (I think it comes from the actuator, small circular brass thing that has a t piece with one feeding to the inlet the other to some other valve mounted on the strut tower) dose HAVE to be plumbed into the intercooler to throttle inlet manifold. Any of you guys got a suggestion??

Yeah what the hell if its a go'a i'll get one. Still got the auto but i'll need one in the next 6 month so if the price is right...

Yeah nice set up Team Krazy, but for just over $1k i'm pretty happy. You'd be surprised how thin the rails are trough the cab area are knore. And You'd be hard pressed to get picked up on it, but my fear is that i'll be the lucky one that gets canneries and have some major problems getting her back on the road (ie permanently un roadworthy... crush town.) Now i'm being an over paranoid engineer... At the end of the day i've bought it, I'm gunna use it, just looking for advice

So in the attached picture this is not the chassis rail??

Having just purchased a Hybrid FMIC kit I was a little dismayed to learn I had to cut a 3" hole in the front of the chassis rail, so that the return pipe can be plumbed to the standard throttle body. Having spoken with the shop I bought it from, they said that it was normal procedure for most front mounts to have to do such a thing, which I guess was to be expected. I however was wondering if this is what any of you guys have had to do, and will cutting a hole in the chassis rail affect the roadworthiness of the car? Having read the thread about the 3 week blitz on imports in Melbourne I’m not really interested in any nice yellow windscreen decals if you catch my drift…