BK

It's that time of year again...

Only plug to use on a 500kw onwards RB mainly because of the Platinum ground electrode, as all other plugs can grenade the nickel ground electrode right off with any detonation quite easily.

Closest you can get without touching is best, so ideally under 1.5mm is recommended. I run a Ross trigger with hall effect GT101s. I have no shims on cam home at the standard set 1.4mm gap and the crank end is shimmed to be about 50 thou, which is about 1.25mm down here.

Sounds like there is a tear in the actuator boot. Use 518 not 515. There is no gasket between the Attesa actuator and transfer case, it relies on the boot of the actuator itself to seal with just an oil film or 518 usually. Failing that, Threebond the mf'er in with 1207C.

Nah no polarity. The switch is just open circuit and actually closes when active at low level, hence why you can just unplug it and nothing happens.

Had enough Steve ? https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1997-nissan-skyline-gt-r-bcnr33-manual-4wd/SSE-AD-14227414?pageSource=details

I have a spare 33 gtr one here, but I see Jack Philips JDM in Melbourne has an 33 one with the single plug in stock - $220 https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php?id_product=3160&rewrite=nissan-skyline-r33-acceleration-gravity-g-sensor-98805-20u05&controller=product

The fork is oem - a 350z oem. If it wasn't better Nissan wouldn't have changed it would they...

Undo top and bottom of engine mounts, not engine mount brackets on block. Basically it'll have the engine tilt back against the firewall. Don't have any other pictures on me, that was just from the last time a box was out last year. Basically you get the picture though, bracket on back to stop slipping off the flat gearbox lifting plate adapter for a floor jack. Spend the time chocking under the front bellhousing area correctly for the angle you require. This is the most time consuming part really, just getting it setup on a jack If the engine is tilted and you suss out the jack angle correctly to suit it goes in easily with one hand on the jack handle - rotation of box not required if you have this right. Even my 78 year old Dad still manages this solo on his car, so have a crack. I'll be taking my 33 GTR box out soonish to generally inspect the OS gearset and reseal centre plate, so I'll try and document this with some photos for you.

Yeah it CAN go in that way, but the height and angle required do it with 400kg + hanging off an engine crane is something I'd rather avoid. Heaps of the Yanks on youtube are doing it like that with the engine and box through the engine bay.

This is from pulling the box out last year to change a clutch on the white 32. Zoom in and youll see how its bolted to the flat bracket on the left to stop it rotating or slipping off. This jack and bracket combination has removed and reinstalled GTR boxes on this section of concrete more times than I care to remember, nothing fancy required.

Nitto = Proven

It's actually quite easy once you've done it a few times and have the right gear. It's all about having the correct upward angle on the floor jack mounting, you don't need to rotate anything. You need to make up bracketry to bolt the transmission to though, do not rely on it sitting on the jack as that just won't work. One thing that is a must is to undo the engine mounts so the engine tilts rearward to suit your upward jack angle. No friggen way I'd ever do that.

Same, RHDJAPAN for ARD alternator as they are essentially a rewound factory alternator so no bracket conversions They have a slightly bigger pulley but still fits the factory 4PK875 belt. Have you been back to Ampl ? Sure it's not fuel ? Refresh my memory with what coilpacks you have and what fuel pump, fuel line sizes and the pump wiring size is. Has Ampl suggested what dramas the low voltage is causing and / or this mentioned cut is related ? A drop to 12.7v is not ideal but really shouldn't be causing you major dramas like a cut. Bloody cars....

I get where you're coming from, but establishing the very important basics with things like what baseline voltages are at battery and fuel pump terminals, fuel pressure, base timing, spark plug type and gap and so on should be a given as a precheck before going anywhere near a dyno. Going on a dyno to tune without doing any of this with something like say less than 13.0v at pump terminals or god forbid actually at the battery is just asking for tuners to crack the shits, as that will immediately flag potential problems elsewhere. i also accept unforseen things happen that can't be picked up until actually exposed on the dyno too, which is why the are such a great tool. I notice a lot of places are asking for dyno prechecks to avoid exactly this sort of thing.