Jump to content

BK

Members
  • Content Count

    521
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1
  • Feedback

    100%

BK last won the day on July 28

BK had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

55 Excellent

About BK

  • Rank
    Money burner ! For real. I set fire to it constantly.
  • Birthday 09/19/1979

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Alice Springs
  • Interests
    Cars, guitars and metal

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    R33 GT-R,2 x R32 GT-R,15WRX
  • Real Name
    Ben

Recent Profile Visitors

8,257 profile views
  1. Yes the Xtreme sprung single plate ones above are where it starts for an attempt at retaining the stock clutch feel. All have heavier pressure plate. All single plates are generally designed to be compatible with the standard flywheels, yet usually have light chromoly versions to suit as an option available. The Exedy equivalent is this: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EXEDY-clutch-kit-HEAVY-DUTY-for-NISSAN-skyline-R34-GTR-RB26DETT-2-6litre-/131647971336&ved=2ahUKEwj91Jf2x7HlAhVq73MBHbJvCuQQFjAMegQIBhAB&usg=AOvVaw3p4reyX6EoViZHJ3c-TBer&cshid=1571805652159 Multiplates are generally all designed around using a supplied light flywheel for that specific clutch, that's why multiplates are more expensive as they generally always come with a flywheel, and singles generally do not. You mentioned the carbon clutches, they are great and now will only use a carbon clutch. Anyone who has seen my posts in the last ten to fifteen years will know the clutch troubles I've had, and that I think the ATS carbons are completely on another level compared to any other clutch or brand on the market. The triples are stupidly high rated, like 1400hp +, and drive like a dream. Seriously if you drove one no way anyone would think they were a solid centre triple, as they are so progressive because they have carbon friction discs and can be slipped, not on or off engagement. Only give away that it's a multiplate is that they have the signature multiplate rattle when clutch is depressed, which I don't see as a negative. I like it when someone who thinks they know a thing or two say when the clutch is depresssed "what's wrong with your car ?", it cracks me up. I think now if I DON'T hear that sound, it must be a shit clutch as ALL multiplates should rattle when depressed, if not the clutch is not disengaging properly, and that is very,very bad. These carbon clutches mostly on the market like OS giken, Nismo, Exedy and ATS are generally carbon friction discs, but still with metallic floating discs and pressure plate. ATS has the extra option of carbon coating the metallic floating discs and pressure plate also, so it's carbon on carbon making them last even longer and handle more torque. Carbon also has a natural tendency to absorb drive line shockload compared to other materials, great for launching at high GTR rpms. That's what I run and I love them. It's a shame though as the price is through the roof now, I used to get the triples for around $2600 trade price, now the triples are a $3500- $4500 clutch depending on options. RHDjapan is about the best place to source now Australian Clutch Services in Adelaide (aka XClutch, Xtreme) don't appear to source them anymore. Not that this really applies here, but If you really wanted to get crazy ATS is the only ones who make true carbon / carbon clutches. That is, carbon friction discs, carbon floating discs (not coated, actual full carbon), and carbon pressure plates ! Freaking amazing with 1000hp single, 2000hp twin, 3000hp triple all the way to 4000hp quad plate. Apparently wears like 0.1 - 0.4mm after 300 launches across entire clutch, which is unheard of compared to anything else available. You can have one too with the singles around $7000, twins $9000 and the triples around $12000. Quad - $15000 (yes not a typo) This is the type of clutch that will outlive the life of any transmission and most cars though. For drooling awesomeness: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.a-t-s.co.jp/00english/01e-clutch/index_fcc.html&ved=2ahUKEwiwhLCb0bHlAhWi7XMBHSqcDBIQFjAIegQIAxAB&usg=AOvVaw2Hmd1F-64fNivjXO5BZieY&cshid=1571808466663 Sorry, getting a bit of topic for you now, just pointing out what's out there and illustrating how carbon clutches have really changed the game, which seems to have gone a bit under the radar as most people don't run them because of the cost. Coming back down to Earth, Check out ATS. You can definitely find something suitable. If you want to go down the carbon path, the starting point carbon clutches would be something like this: Single - $2300 https://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/item.php?category=drivetrain&subcat=Clutches&brand=ATS&series=&name=Carbon+Clutch+(Single+Plate)&carcode=R34C&fromlink=2 Twin - $3200 https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.rhdjapan.com/ats-across-carbon-twin-clutch-kit-spec-1-1350kg-getrag-nismo-shaft-light-weight-bnr34.html&ved=2ahUKEwinq_r807HlAhVn7HMBHbSeDB0QFjAKegQIBhAC&usg=AOvVaw3uoyATS9IGvVQQEMO-a6u7&cshid=1571808839898 Either would suit you fine. BK out, - back to work.
  2. Ok let's clear things up. I said "why" originally as I see no reason ever to run a single plate ever in a GTR, as their cost vs what they deliver is not very good compared to multiplate clutches. What power level are we talking here ? Just because you run a multiplayer doesn't mean you have to have a "FU gearbox" driving style, it just means it can support more power. Some multiplates are nicer to drive than others for sure. Yes the Nismo twin is probably the nicest, friendliest to drive. If your power goals are less than 400kw then yes the Nismo is the go, but it sounds like you essentially want a stock clutch by they way you are wanting it to feel. The only clutch that will feel like that is an upgraded full face organic single plate, cushioned, sprung centre using the standard dual mass flywheel with an upgraded pressure plate. Most clutch manufacturers all sell something like this. The Nismo will come close, and would be a better value option than most singles, as it will drive almost like standard yet hold more power. Don't be fooled though, even the comp spec Nismo twin will not handle much abuse for long periods of time, it is still more like a street clutch only, which sounds like it will absolutely be fine for you. The Getrag doesn't NEED a dual mass flywheel, but yes was used to make the box quieter. There is gearbox rattle, then there is multiplate rattle. The twin/triples only rattle when clutch pedal is depressed and is disengaged, as the floating discs are loose with no clamping load on them, they all do it, they don't rattle all the time when engaged. The gearbox noise referred to is the Getrag 6 speed rattle noise, and is caused by it's design. It is not helped that they essentially run an ATF as gearbox oil because of their synchro material. If it could run a thicker oil I'm sure it would be quieter, but they can't and that's just the way it is. The dual mass flywheel was an attempt to engineer out the noise, and running a single piece flywheel enhances this noise to a degree. How bad this noise is though is purely subjective as some people with think it's really noticeable, others will say "what noise" ? Generally the dual mass flywheel is only retained on the most mildest cars as it is a heavy mofo at nearly 14.5kg! It's a heap of shit design and really shouldn't be in a performance car. A 14.5kg flywheel is a performance killer, even the R32/R33 GTR flywheel is around 10kg and that's a heavy thing, and is much improved upon with a lighter flywheel in the region of 6kg. Essentially the benefits of moving to a better multiplate and flywheel clutch far outweigh the cons of increased NVH in my opinion, unless you are highly annoyed by ANY increase in NVH. For what it's worth I cannot speak highly enough about carbon clutches. They hold a lot more power and don't warp like their equivalent metal or ceramic plate versions, and are really great to drive. Only downside is that they are really expensive.
  3. NEW R32 GTR genuine Nissan Pitwork power steering belt 4PK950 - SOLD NEW R32 / R33 GTR lower gearbox shifter boot- SOLD Used R33 GTR genuine rear upper control arms - SOLD Used R32 GTR genuine rear upper control arms -SOLD TRUST OIL COOLER SOLD PENDING PAYMENT
  4. Look, if afrs are fine, they're fine. It doesn't matter if injectors are maxxed or fuel pressure is not ideal, whatever. And, so what. If there was not enough fuel to achieve correct mixtures, because of a low pressure situation, the base fuel map would have to be run higher than expected, and expected duty % would be higher, which you would see you are doing in the tuning software. If the system can achieve say 12:1 afr at full load and that's what your tuning to that's what it is. You are somehow implying that you can have spot on air / fuel ratios but still be not delivering enough fuel, which is not possible. Logging the fuel pressure and the injector duty % will give the answers to how maxxed pump is.
  5. So am I. I just haven't been able to get over to the east coast with my car get on the dyno yet. Living here is a real pain in the arse when your closest dyno is 1500km away in Adelaide... I dont know, just need to arrange to get car to Sydney. I did get to see Con at CRD last month when I flew into Sydney and talk about it, but I'm an idiot and now have a 2nd R32 GTR after that. Bought one with a blown engine and T78 so now have another big project without getting my 6466 tune finalised. It will be a priority early in the new year definitely, as this year is pretty much over now. So I have 2 x Wrx's and 3 x GTR's now and not enough time to work on them all....
  6. Hey mate it might be worth dropping your front diff oil also to check if there is a heap of metal in it, indicating any wear. Also....you do have correct and even pressure in your tyres don't you ? This is the simplest thing that will make you torque steer under power. Easily overlooked, but will definitely cause it too.
  7. Out of curiosity, what did you use for sealant and what box oil you running ?
  8. Wow ! that ! was ! really ! hard ! to ! read ! Stop ! using ! So ! Many ! exclamation ! Marks ! Explaining ! Your ! Problem ! ☺ FYI This also should be listed in the more suitable drivetrain and transmission section. Anyway your problem I take it is your car basically pulls left under power ? If you have crappy clapped out standard diffs front or rear in your car, your diffs are open wheeling and pulling you to the left. Very common with stock worn GTR diffs actually. Like KiwiRS4T said, put car into 2wd and repeat, as at least it will point towards the front or rear diff causing the pull. Brown "oilsplashs" is probably actually grease from a split front cv outer boot, and needs to be addressed ASAP. If the front diff centre is gone it will make some fairly noticeably horrendous noises too, worse under load. Please report back after more diagnosis.
  9. Awesome then ! Hopefully the milk you picked was the 100% full cream stuff, none of this gay fat free shit ! 😃
  10. Hey mate on a more serious note, please tell me you used Threebond 1207C sealant on the bottom three front cover bolts and NOT threadlocker (or even worse nothing) ? Had to pull my dog box out of my 32 on the weekend, after the one box we didn't do ourselves and outsourced pissed oil out of the front cover. Noticed a slight drip under bellhousing and though fcuk, they didn't did they ? Found this as expected... Pretty annoying to pull a box out to reseal 3 bolts, but said transmission specialist was very apologetic after I showed him the stuff up. We didn't check front cover before install, but why would we ? It was done by a very experienced transmission specialist that knows what they're doing, so it can and does happen to anyone. It is in the Nissan manual after all so no excuse.... Check, check, check
  11. yeah fuel SHOULD be ok with enough head room on 98Ron. My 33 with GT-SS on 22psi boost is around 70 -75% duty with Denso 700cc injectors, stock rail, stock fpr, Nismo 280lph in tank pump and twin 80mm Z32 afm.
  12. For farks sake mate, WD40, CRC 5.56 ect is fine in a pressurised can so you can spray it, and what MOST mechanics who work on these jobs to free up the nuts and bolts will use in the real world.
  13. Yep, maybe the catback section to the muffler is more restrictive than the cat itself. Needs to be dynoed with front pipe only as I originally suggested and done myself to get a clear baseline of what's what. Are they saying they won't dyno it like that ?
  14. I don't know what cat he's running but the current 80mm Apexi super cats are 130cpi which is awesome. They are also $1200 - $1400.... ouch.
×
×
  • Create New...