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BK

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BK last won the day on June 4

BK had the most liked content!

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About BK

  • Rank
    Money burner ! For real. I set fire to it constantly.
  • Birthday 09/19/1979

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  • Skype
    chubbservice.ben.king@outlook.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Alice Springs
  • Interests
    Cars, guitars and metal

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    R33 GT-R,2 x R32 GT-R,15WRX
  • Real Name
    Ben
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  1. Nah, not worked up, just that vid almost sent you on a mission stuffing around trying to use a press. I like how he actually didn't show the whole process of completely pressing the shafts out. Like he finished doing it and went, 'um this collar thingy is separate ?" I'm not sure what you've proposed will work. It might, but that collar is really tight. I won't sell my one as will always need it, used it quite a few times, but do you want me to express post mine down to you to use it and maybe copy it ? You can post it back to me when you're done.
  2. They guy in the video is an idiot and should read a manual before uploading shit like this. That collar is the main thing holding the shafts from coming out, it must be removed first, and hence why a factory part was available for removing it. He is trying to press though the counter shaft collar ! 🤣 Once that counter shaft collar is off you should be able to tap both shafts out of the bearings fairly easily, firmly but nothing like requiring a press. The fit on the bearing is nothing like the collar - that is really difficult to get off, hence why you need something fairly chunky to securely pull against. Notice how he said the main shaft pressed easily and that the counter shaft is really hard ? Geez, I wonder why ? He was only pressing the main shaft away from the bearing. Then he's trying to press the counter shaft through the collar and bearing. 🤦‍♂️ Surprised he didn't snap the standard cast centre plate in half doing that, what a Muppet
  3. Hey just noticed you got around to pulling the gearbox apart. Is it getting the counter shaft separated from the centre plate you're talking about having trouble with that doesn't fit your press ? Before you mod your press again for this, you do realise you don't use a press for that. You need the specific collar so you can put one of your pullers on. I mentioned it in the attached thread last year as someone was having the same issue. I only have a bench press, nothing as elaborate as your setup, as it is not needed for doing these boxes. You need this -
  4. If that oil helps you, your box is pretty stuffed. Redline website "NOT recommended for most synchro applications". You're in a situation where you will have to try out something to see if it improves your situation. That said, if you need any other oil than what is supposed to be in that box, you are really only just covering up a problem that needs fixing.
  5. BK

    R32 ecu case

    Don't know if you're aware, but if you get stuck and don't come up with one Frenchy's performance garage have the 32 ECU mounting plates and ECU casings.
  6. The Bosch ones from Kudos are the 980cc / 1000cc ones, not sure why they are advertising as 1250cc. Same thing as from Golebys, EFI hardware, EFI solutions, NZEFI and so on.
  7. I run the old Denso 700cc on the 33 and they are at about 75% duty cycle at 330kw on 98. On the 32 I went from the Denso 1000cc to the Bosch EV14 1550cc - heaps better. Get the Bosch EV14 1000cc as Gtsboy said, best idea
  8. Hi again Matty. Yes same, rail upgrade no. Denso based 10.5 or 11mm injectors all fit into the standard rail. Nearly all of these older direct fit injectors are all made by Denso - Nismo, Power Enterprise, Tomei, Sard, Blitz I suggest you go bigger than 550cc though
  9. Not entirely that simple. The 33 and 34 GTR is essentially rwd like the 32 until it is told to actuate the transfer. There's only a 1 - 2% of torque transfer under normal conditions if that, as this second failsafe solenoid allows about 30psi to the transfer actuator just to preload it. Under a 50:50 torque split the pressure applied is upwards of 230psi. The whole idea is that having this slight preload allows the torque transfer to be initiated much faster than having no preload like the 32.
  10. Yep your right Duncan, even Nissan fast confirms it. I think the confusion for me was caused when you look up various battery suppliers is that they list it as the guard side. Had the positive on my 32R on the plenum side for years as the guard side just seems silly, but did notice on the old man's 32R that his postive is definitely on the guard side. He is also 75 so maybe he was just being a bit senile and installed a backwards battery by mistake, like Ben with #62 has done.
  11. The 32 and 33 gearboxes, fronts diff and transfer cases are all the same. The change is within the electronics and hydraulics. I've explained this all before so I'll be brief. Essentially the 32 has one transfer case solenoid which can be electrically disabled and the 33 has two solenoids, which one provides a constant small pressure preload on the transfer case. On a 33 you have to depressurise this second "failsafe" solenoid to have no transfer case preload. If you searched in the driveline forum section you would've found this on how to do it:
  12. Factory is definitely positive next to guard like yours, but that is generally a bit silly so people change it to stop dumbasses shorting the positive on guard. Most cars are near plenum, terminals to firewall side as it just makes more sense.
  13. Nice car Ben. Stock is positive is supposed to be near the guard, not near plenum. That said I did change my 32R to be like in the picture, and most looms should reach. It just seems more practical with positive configured like that doesn't it.
  14. Marko R1 I was replying directly to the previous post by John Murray - he claimed it is one of 9 silver cars with an ADM compliance plate. Actually GTR registry claims 25 ADM KG1 Jet silver metallic so I don't know where he got 1 of 9 from. End of the day, it is still just an R32 GTR in KG1 PRODUCED from Nissan and there are 1620 in that colour. That is my point that I'm making - there is this ADM elitist attitude going on that somehow they are like a completely different built car and are a better car than they really are. A v spec 32 for example is mechanically a better car. As for the gun metal grey ADM, who really gives a shit that it is the only ADM one in that colour. It is still the most common R32 GTR colour KH2 is it not ? Certainly doesn't deserve to command a massive price like that, and I will piss myself if it actually does go for it's asking price. Look I like all the GTR models, and find the ADM ones intriguing, but anyone with any common sense sees right through this ADM perceived value. ADM 32 GTR is a cool thing, but there are a lot of other GTR models I would buy before an ADM one. And have. I passed on an ADM 32 in 2004 for my 33, don't regret it for a second.
  15. it's one of the 9 silver ones with a Nissan Australia compliance plate - big difference than produced. And I quote myself... You guys and your ADMs are just proving my point really
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