Jump to content
SAU Community

BK

Members
  • Content Count

    1,137
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    22
  • Feedback

    100%

BK last won the day on January 11

BK had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

305 Excellent

1 Follower

About BK

  • Rank
    Burnt out....
  • Birthday 09/19/1979

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Alice Springs
  • Interests
    Cars, guitars and metal

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    3 x GTR, 2 x WRX
  • Real Name
    Ben
  • Build Thread

Profile Fields

  • Build Thread

Recent Profile Visitors

10,436 profile views
  1. Not necessarily at all. End of the day though the car has indeed been complied in Australia with that VIN and can be and has been registered. Whether the car has been rebirthed or not is not something they care about.
  2. Duncan it's hard to see but zoom in - the chassis code actually is stamped in the firewall above the silver riveted VIN plate tag, so the firewall is at least from said chassis number. As the firewall is a two piece construction, I suspect the entire front firewall section at a minimum has been replaced.
  3. If you had a build plate it would tell you that information, as that chassis code is a series 2 also. No, it's not. It clearly says what it says. Your model code is KRCR32RKRCR32RGASLA and there are 205 cars in that spec, or at least 205 of that spec for whatever car actually is HCR32-292195, because it's not your chassis. Your Australian VIN issue not being obtainable is another story. Use vincheck, pay $9.90 and see what it says as that information is from the Australian Federal government
  4. Missing build plate is a massive warning sign ! Does your car have any of the things listed in the specs ? HCR32-292195 is definitely supposed to be AH3 red pearl. It is also supposed to have a sunroof. Does it ?
  5. Where is your actual blue factory build plate ? Not the SEVS plate, not the import issued VIN plate - the build plate. Something stinks....
  6. Completed long engine and assembled. All block and crankshaft machining, crack testing, balancing work performed by Rick Corbett engineering in Adelaide. Details are: RB26 05U block - machined to 86.5mm bore Stock long nose 26 crank fully balanced ACL race series main bearing ACL race series big end bearings ARP 2000 main studs Spool forged I beam conrods with ARP 2000 7/16 rod bolts - the big bastard rod bolts 💪 CP 86.5mm forged aluminium pistons and rings 9.0 CR Platinum 1.1mm block oil feed restrictor Nitto oil pump using single spring at 75psi max pressure R32 GTR 05U water pump Tomei sump baffles Tomei 1.2mm head gasket ARP 2000 head studs Supertech Viton valve stem seals Supertech single valve springs with titanium retainers New OEM RB26 valve guides, valves and lifters OEM camshaft bolts Head mild port by hand OEM harmonic balancer (at this stage) Franklin engineering AN10 head drain / breather kit Stock 05U RB26 camshafts with Tomei adjustable cam gears It was a last minute to use stock cams. Had Camtech 272deg / 9.7mm cams to go in, but opted for stock on this engine being 2.6 street car. Don't really want to compromise the low end too much. Haven't worked out the cost but that is about as budget as you can get for an effective forged bottom end RB26 I would think. Lyle blitzed it. I assembled the valve train as them collets can be a bit fiddly and bolted on the head / torqued the head studs down, but apart from that it was all him. I didn't touch the bottom end at all. Not like it's anything new for him really as he's a fully qualified mechanic and diesel fitter for over 55 years and can still show me a thing or two👍
  7. We have a modified factory top hat too in the white 32 with 3 x 6mm bulkhead fuel pump electrical terminals, an8 feed and return bulkhead fittings, factory sender, factory fuel light sensor. It's tight. It had a twin Walbro 460 setup in the factory pump cradle and revised it to go back to a single Walbro 525 in factory cradle. We feed the return in the tank back into the factory pump cradle with a 3/8" submersible gates hose. I saw you were looking for a factory pump sock - an aftermarket version which is identical is available from Taarks/EFI solutions. What lift pump and twin feed pumps are you going to use ? Regarding the FPG kit - shouldn't the fuel gauge read like factory as it is a 0 - 90 ohm sender just like the factory unit is ? I want to go to an Frenchy's top hat in my blue 32 and know the fuel light sensor you can raid off your factory setup, and integrate that into the new top hat easily. Just need to add one more bulkhead terminal. Did you say you wanted to give me your FPG top hat ? 👍
  8. Nice one smart arse ! 😂 Paul, 2009 -2010 weren't you running HKS GT-RS turbos and an OS giken 5 speed back then ? Hence the reason I had to get off of the "awesome" HKSness from the 90's. Power was so late in delivery it could never actually get a decent MPH. Could not get lower than mid 10s and couldn't crack 135mph. That's why when we discussed turbo options you guys were so kind to persuade me from making another HKS mistake, which I 100% appreciate. Just took me a little while to get into the 21st century that's all... Thanks again, you are an asset to SAU and always value your input mate 👍 So what's happening with your 33 these days ?
  9. Absolutely. 👍 That's why I opted out of the 6870 and went the 6466 as originally discussed with CRD. I was like, guys like yourself @r32-25t, @hattori hanzo, @Dorifudo were making stupid power in the 500 - 600rwkw region with them, 140+ MPH trap with comparable turbo response to low mount twins ! Sounded like more of a win than any of the EFR or Garrett stuff to me. Remember I came from plain bearing big HKS with light switch delivery.
  10. Next jump up definitely seems to be a 6870, which is what I originally intended.
  11. Camtech 272 camshafts - SOLD This makes me a bit sad really as I'll never get them again since they've shut up shop. 😔 Hope they work out well and make that RB26 rev ☺️
  12. If Kudos Motorsport has them I'd think they'd be genuine Nismo - they don't sell crap or knockoffs. Neither does CJmotor on Ebay. What is confusing is the price at $66 from Kudos and $79 from Jacky at CJmotor. Very strange, as it appears to be genuine as the original "Nismo Design Key" is infact part number KEY01-RN008. For comparison, the definitely known to be genuine BCNR33 GTR keys are $99, but that R33 GTR key is now part of the Nismo Heritage program, part KEY00-RHR30 to replace existing genuine Nissan part KEY00-00185 which is why they've gone from about $50 up to $99. Check RHDjapan. If it's aftermarket and available, they 99% of the time have it listed on their site. This Nismo logo key is not listed on RHDjapan and is definitely not listed in the 2020 Nismo catalogue. I think a call to Andrew at Kudos or Jacky at CJmotor is the only way you'll get an explanation
  13. Yeah the Haltech GM ones are all suprise suprise, imperial threads. The factory thread is M12. I am using a direct fit long nose M12 sensor on my 32, which is Hella sensor 6PT 009 109 041 used on some euro cars. Has Bosch EV1 connector. A few people like Proximity motorsport and Platinum racing are repackaging and reselling them as their own. Looks like this:
×
×
  • Create New...