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BK last won the day on October 30 2019

BK had the most liked content!

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About BK

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    Money burner ! For real. I set fire to it constantly.
  • Birthday 09/19/1979

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  • Location
    Alice Springs
  • Interests
    Cars, guitars and metal

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  • Car(s)
    R33 GT-R,2 x R32 GT-R,15WRX
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  1. Yes, the rears are awesome too. Just a question though, do you actually know how to reshim a differential so that the crown wheel and pinion gear have the correct backlash ? Remember they are not straight drop in items as the centres will be slightly different, requiring reset up. Also the rear is a pain in the arse to get in and out. Again also, the Quaife rear only comes in 31 tooth rear diff half shaft spline centre, not the more common 30 tooth in R32 GTR, which opens up a world of pain trying to obtain these days as they are discontinued. R33 GTR non v spec mechanical rears are all 31 tooth, not R32s.
  2. Yeah love em all. Got 3 GTRs now actually. 2 x 32s (the latest one is actually a joint project for my Dad and completely in pieces) and the 33. I guess I have the GTR bug... The 33 is definitely a better base car but I see the 32s as a better platform to go all out on with heavy modification. To be honest I hate the inside dimensions of a 32, I don't fit properly, which is why the 33 feels better to be in. Seating and steering positions are much better in a 33 I think. That said most of the modification money goes into the 32, so Maybe I'm just retarded...😄 Anyway you'll love the Quaife front
  3. Exactly, it is ok to use LSD oil in a non LSD, not the other way around ( non LSD oil in LSD). Good stuff like Motol comp gear 75w-140, Castrol SAF-XA ect. is generally an LSD oil by design, but is still used in LSD, non LSD and dog box transmission applications. They don't need the LSD friction modifiers, but it doesn't hurt them. You will find nearly every dog box and performance diff manufacturers are specifying Motul Comp gear 75w-140 as it is considered the best in the business.
  4. Hi mate. I run a Quaife in front and rear. See in the drivetrain section, but essentially you should be running 75w-140 generally in the diffs front and rear if you don't want your diff crown wheel and pinion gears to wear out, although you do have a picture of a GTR in the snow. Where I'm from it's 45deg C + for 5 months of the year, so maybe 75w-90 GL5 in the snow time for you if you're worried, but the 75w-140 does have a wider viscosity range but be similar from cold, so in "theory" should still be ok in the cold.
  5. So you still have no idea what it " actually" is then.... Keep us updated.
  6. Yeah I remember calling them last year as I'd heard good things about them. I thought they were the most arrogant, up themselves lot ever. I mentioned swapping from FC d Jetro to Haltech Elite and they basically scoffed at me for even suggesting it.
  7. Inner guard liners found after much headache searching everywhere... Come on man someone must have one of these pipes, still needed urgently.
  8. Can we allocate our own picture to the vin on the site or is for you to do via here ?
  9. He said he's going to remove the front tailshaft until sump is swapped, so transfer will not be physically connected to anything so it's not going to damage anything. I've done this and drove 3000km and back to Adelaide with no front tailshaft connected and Attesa fuse pulled in the 33, and the 34 has the same 2nd failsafe solenoid (which causes the transfer preload in a 33/34. 32 only has one solenoid) as the 33. That's how you rear wheel dyno one without depressurising Attesa. Also regarding the Getrag with the 4.11 drive, remember what I wrote in the GTR box upgrade thread. 6th isn't the problem, as crusing rpm only increases a bees dick. The Getrag has a stupidly short first, but ignoring that 2nd - 6th is very, very close to having OS giken ratios 1st - 5th in a 5 speed. So as above Getrag 1st behind a 4.11 drive is essentially a motorkhana gear. You'd be probably taking off under normal conditions in 2nd, although 2nd is a bit taller again than an OS 1st. It'll be ok as most of the time will be between 2nd and 6th, 1st will rarely be used. This isn't a problem, just pointing out that it's going to have a very, very short first.
  10. It's almost a knee jerk response now isn't it, "it's the coils". Most of the time it's true though.
  11. Yeah, Ben and Kristian at Golbeys are great. They supply all the Spool stuff too.
  12. I'll try and get my two 32 build threads up soon for reference. We are in the middle of doing the second 32 engine now. The long engine has just been completed and goes a little like this.... 05U block - machined to 86.5mm bore Stock long nose 26 crank fully balanced ARP race series main / big end bearings ARP 2000 main studs Spool forged I beam conrods with ARP 2000 7/16 rod bolts CP 86.5mm forged aluminium pistons Platinum 1.1mm block oil restrictor Nitto oil pump R32 GTR water pump Tomei sump baffles Tomei 1.2mm head gasket ARP 2000 head studs Supertech valve stem seals Supertech single valve springs New OEM valve guides, valves and lifters OEM camshaft bolts Head mild port OEM harmonic balancer Stock camshafts with Tomei cam gears (last minute to use stock cams. Have Camtech 272deg / 9.7mm cams to go in, but opted for stock on this engine being 2.6) Haven't worked out the cost but that is about as budget as you can get for a forged bottom end RB26 I would think.
  13. Ok so you're really not talking about engine only. That list has good parts, but will be just the beginning.
  14. Quite a lot missing there.... Absolutely nothing about head.
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