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About BK

  • Rank
    Money burner ! No, for real. I set fire to it constantly.
  • Birthday 09/19/1979

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    Alice Springs
  • Interests
    Cars, guitars and metal

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  • Car(s)
    R33 GT-R,R32 GT-R,15WRX,HILUX!
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  1. No you won't. Might get a bit more boost as better intercooler should have less pressure drop across the core.
  2. Nitto billet 2.8 crankshaft - SOLD AND GONE ! Oil cooler sold pending payment, read again, PENDING PAYMENT ! Still for sale until that. I will get turbo and 1000cc Denso / Sard injector pics up soon. Also have NEW 6 x Bosch full length injector adapters for sale 11mm rail - $80 posted 60mm boost gauge with remote mount MAP sensor 1.6BAR. Remote mount peak / hold setting controller. Boost gauge without pressure in cabin ! Comes with 60mm gauge cup too ! - $110
  3. You need to comply with ANDRA, not CAMS for drag racing. Although Chromoly is allowed in ANDRA, most off the shelf bolt in cages aren't.
  4. It does say GT2860 on the dyno sheet for induction, so I take it they've been upgraded now. Edit: posted at the same time.
  5. no the gear stick is actually two pieces put together from factory. Only way to get that new ring intact is with a NEW shifter. This part is a completely different removable ring on a proper Nismo quick shifter.
  6. you do realise you can't remove or replace the nylon upper part between the ball and the stick right ? Well not without destroying it. You cant get over ball end and doesnt go over the upper shifter shaft. It is put on at factory before they bond the rubber on the shaft and is why part 32875-V5002 you listed is not in Nissan fast as a GTR part. when you say "bonded rubber" above, that part you've listed is just a lower oil seal rubber and has nothing to do with the shifter being tight or loose. The bonded rubber they talk about stiffening is in the stick itself that links the ball end shaft to the gearknob end. The main thing that really only makes a difference to slop in the shifter is the lower nylon locating bush or gearbox shifter centralising springs being worn mate. Just curious but have you ever actually pulled the shifter out and had a look, because it doesn't sound like it.
  7. Yeah I would say 10% solid short shifter as the stick is black, not the 25% quick shift as yes the stick is chrome on the quick shift. FYI there is absolutely no difference of noise or vibration when using the quick shift that I can detect. Just buy one. Sounds like you want one and the solid short shifter is only a little bit more expensive than a stock shifter.
  8. Why are they telling me the 30th of May for stock then ? I deal with Patrick and Russell from RHD on a weekly - monthly basis and they assured me this week. That sucks for you if that's the case. Maybe they only allocated a specific order ? Maybe ask for a refund if that is the case and get from Jacky at CJ motor in Qld or Darron Corrigan at Just Jap in Sydney. RHD is generally the best in the business.
  9. Pretty much this. I will say though that my 32 when I got it from Japan was made to work with one afm on a single with a power fc pro. Put down 530kw with that setup, but have since moved on to 4 bar MAP with Haltech elite 2500. I thought tuning via 4D when using a MAP sensor alleviated these light load and emissions control issues ?
  10. If you want to retain AFMs well that's fine. Why is it an issue for you on a single ? Plenty of single turbo GTR have run AFMs, my 32 when I bought it was setup this way. MAP vs AFM debate is not really relevant in a thread about single vs twin turbo though and a bit off topic.
  11. This thread should be in forced induction really. I retain twin z32 afm on the 33, but that's because I did it 15 years ago and wouldn't bother now if I was doing it from scratch. Having a 4 bar MAP is fine if you've got the ECU to run it over AFMs and do not impact the stock throttle bodies for emissions with a modern ECU. Low mount single on an RB26, why would you bother ? Having a high mount single 32 myself (currently moving to a 1.00 a/r twin scroll PT6466) and retaining the twins in my 33 HKS gt-ss / Garrett -9 is best compromise. I'd never go single on the 33 for the exact reasons mentioned in this thread, as I basically want it to appear stock as possible. That said, this turbo choice does tend to fall over at the top end - it's all about the low - mid range with gt-ss and I know that. Slightly laggier than stock ceramics, -5 does have more top end but with shitter response, but at the end of the day the more "complete" package for response vs power under the curve vs top end will always be a single now with what's out there turbo wise. Twins are a compromise these days and it is all about the balance of the delivery you can achieve with what you choose to run.
  12. Look if want to retain twins, but upgrade, and have as close to factory response -9 / hks gt-ss is the only option. I have that on the 33 and makes between 310 -330kw in 98 with around 22psi stock cams. 360 - 380kw might be achievable on E85 upped cams but that would be it. Max.
  13. Go -10 low mounts, It's fully sick ! 😜 8-10psi, Isn't that about stock R32 boost ? Have you removed boost restrictor olive ? Should get around 14psi.
  14. Yeah that's the go and what I still use in the 33. If you get the 3 speed kit with uprated input shaft it ends up being strengthened 1st - 4th gears with a standard 5th, as the input shaft is essentially 4th as it is the 1:1 direct gear. The OS Giken 5th is more for circuit racing being shorter.
  15. Nothing wrong with stock lower nylon bushing, as long as it's in good condition. As mentioned, on the 10% shifter: -stick is bonded with stronger rubber (apparently) for less flex -cut down from top 7.5mm to give the 10% throw reduction -uses stock lower nylon bush Nowhere they mention a stiffer lower bush and I'm sure Nismo don't sell one.
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