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About BK

  • Rank
    Money burner !
  • Birthday 09/19/1979

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  • Location
    Alice Springs
  • Interests
    Cars, guitars and metal

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  • Car(s)
    R33 GT-R vspec,R32 GT-R,15 WRX
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  1. Setting the final clutch pack clearance after plate modification is key and requires doing the plate mod in two steps. Too tight (under 0.2mm) and transfer will drag plates constantly and burn out. Too loose and obviously doesn't fully lock. Proper way to get clearance is to change the rear retaining plate thickness (they come in 0.2mm increments from about 4.6 - 7.0mm), so it's not actually "shimming" like adding or removing extra shims to change a clearance. My old man does them all the time and have noticed a few particular specific things you have to watch out for when doing them, as you can stuff it up fairly easily if you don't know, off the top of my head, -Setup with the plate clutch pack clearance MUST be done the with Attesa actuator installed. If not the clearance will end up too tight and basically lock transfer up permanently. -final plate arrangement count can't change ie. has to always start with 5.0mm retaining pressure plate and change clearance with rear retaining plate AND - has to always end up at combined metal and friction plate count of 19 (from standard 7 friction 12 metal arrangement to 10 friction 9 metal or anywhere in between that) -plate at each end of the 19 MUST be a friction disc, that contacts each retaining plate -metal plates have to be carefully reassembled to make sure they don't block oil feed holes into drum (which they can) -presoak friction discs in ATF before reassembly to embed fluid into material. Can rip off friction disc plate material on new unused plates if not done. -checking transfer oil pump sealing
  2. I run a Blitz LM spec 100mm on my 33 Gtr. 98 unleaded, 330kw at wheels, 22psi, HKS GT-SS turbos, stock radiator, stock thermostat, 700cc injectors, power fc, nismo 280l/hr fuel pump, stock gtr intercooler piping, stock long engine. Just had hottest summer here with temps over 45 deg C for 4 months, no dramas. Something else is up with your setup. Something tells me maybe you don't have what you think you have as the Blitz 100mm LM intercooler has less than 1 psi pressure drop at 1.5bar / 22 psi across core and cools enough for stupid hp.
  3. If not mine are available. Same 1000cc Denso / Sard ones. These injectors need the Denso high guide plugs for them, not stock square EV1 Bosch type like stock. Can get pigtail adaptor from eBay for like $50.
  4. I'm similar to this in a way. I just think: R32 GTR - go to town. Big hp street/drag/circuit car. R33 Gtr - modified stock engine if possible. Everything without changing engine ie. Stock bottom end if possible and low mounts. High mount means completely modified. R34 Gtr - completely stock, maybe wheels, exhaust and filters - that's it. Have the first two boxes checked. 89 GTR 92000km (bought at 80000km in 2008) and 95 GTR 82500km (bought at 67000km in 2004). Spewing not getting an R34 when they were circa $40k, thought that they were too similar to R33 mechanically (apart from getrag box and not ceramic turbines, what's the big deal with 34s ?) Anyone wanna sell me an R34 for $50k - $60k so I can complete my trio ? Sold my last 91 R32 gtr for $17k (around 140000km in 2007) , fffffffck it. Might see it if I can get it back as I know it's sitting in a paddock wasting away.
  5. a pick of the part number on back would be great. Then you can just google it and find out what it's for. There will be a p/n on it somewhere.
  6. Come to Alice Springs, nightly occurrence for a town of 30k. Still they're absolute pieces of shit who do this kind of thing, pricks need to be accountable for what they've done to someone's pride and joy. Makes me so angry when I see things like this. I am really sorry.
  7. This might sound a bit stupid, but why do you need water / methanol injection to cool your charge unless your intercooler setup is garbage ? Plenty of 600 -700 Aussie kw at wheels setups without the need for it.
  8. Hanzo, couldn't wait, I ordered the Gen2 6466 T4 twin scroll in 1.00 a/r yesterday.
  9. Just do it as per Nissan with the sealant. There is Threebond, Loctite and Permatec stuff all for the job. The best stuff is Threebond 1207C reddish brown 320 degree C sealant, and is actually what Nissan repackages as their factory sump sealant. Yes Nissan resells the Threebond as their own.
  10. Also need to know as I'm going to purchase this soon (in the next week or so) in either 1.00 or 1.15 a/r for my Nitto 2.8
  11. These are quite specialised twin tube dampers, and are far from comparable to the regular twin tube out there with 20 - 30mm pistons. These have 40mm pistons which are similar to most mono tube dampers at around 40 - 45mm which is important. No doubt a good damper, hey it is Ohlins, and they are specialised suspension. Usually mono tube is better, above is an exception.
  12. The part number listed is the full damper kit part number, the part number in your pick above is the damper only part number. I take it that's the rear above, check your front, it should have a different number. Fulcrum suspension being the Tein Australian supplier and service company did release Australian spec super streets also, but I believe the Aussie stuff was made softer than the Jap stuff and don't know if this was done at a spring level or a damper valving level. I would suspect at a spring level as that would be easier than revalving. Give Fulcrum a call to find out as you may in fact have Aussie spec ones. Regardless, the spring rate is probably as listed by Tein. Twin tube does have it's pros, cheaper construction, lower gas pressures, but mainly that you can damage the outer body and it won't affect the operation of the damper piston moving as that runs on the inner tube. This would be the main reason all oem dampers are this way as if the damper has an external impact and damages the outer body, the damper is not a throw away like a mono tube. Obviously the valving in twin tube dampers is shit because the pistons are so much smaller compared to a mono design and that changes the valving oil orifice size, and why good performance dampers aren't usually twin tube. That's not true at all. Tein, HKS, Cusco ect. have all made mono tube dampers in the 90's. Tein RA were monotube. HKS hypermax III / IV are monotube, but remember they aren't a suspension company either. Can't really compare HKS, Greddy, ect. to Tein though as they are a suspension company only like Bilstein, Ohlins, Supashock ect. and they offer a much wider range from very entry level to their upper end performance stuff (like the dear as poison $5 - $20k dampers like Super racing, HT, Group N, N1 dampers). It's a shame they have appeared to have cut production costs on their lower end stuff. That said they have just released a proper replacement for the mono flex - the mono racing which is valved like the $5k+ Super racing damper allegedly and is around $2.5 - $3.5k.
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