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BK

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Everything posted by BK

  1. Ok then - sounds like you need a Precision 7675 and turn it up to 40psi. It will make your power goals on your 3.2.
  2. I dig straight cut. When you say room for error though, having a H pattern dog you a more likely to damage it if you don't know how to drive it. This is where sequentials come into their own because they are easier to use. When setup correctly they will wear the dogs less than an H dog as you always shift into gear correctly. Not so with an H pattern. Quoting myself from the Big boss thread-
  3. I would say back to PPG, show me a 1200rwhp + GTR running a helical 5 speed dog. I don't believe there is one running that kind of power that's not on the straight cut in H pattern.
  4. H pattern has wider gears being a 5 speed in the same case. When I was looking to go back to a dog box my quote for fully optioned PPG straight cut H 5 speed dog assembled in case was around $15.5k. For comparison I ended up with the PAR 5 speed straight cut H pattern dog which come in at around $11 - $12k assembled by Sam at Neat Gearboxes. Main difference in price was the PPG gearset is about $2k more than the PAR and the PPG price included the optioned billet main shaft. I was talked out of billet main shaft on a GTR as they really don't break because the shaft is so short, unlike a rwd case having a much longer main shaft. As you're going for 1200rwhp I'd only be considering straight cut gears, not helical. If you mentioned your power goals I'm surprised they even suggested the helical dog H pattern gearset as their own power rating is below the straight cut set.
  5. Yeah but you'll be prepared because you'll know why it broke !
  6. The outright failures are more like what Paul was saying, when people shove 1200rwhp + through them and wonder why it broke. I say go on get one
  7. That's a given isn't it ? What they do imply though (not sure if I'm correct) is that the 4wd dry sump pan is supplied. Is that the entire modified sump supplied ? The Ross kit is the same price but clearly need to send your existing sump to get modified additionally, which is around $1000 - $1500 from Lewis engines. I estimated about $12k installed for the Ross kit doing it yourself.
  8. I notice the Hi Octane dry sump kit gives you a front or rear reservoir tank option. I'm assuming front means engine bay anyway. Not bad at around $9000 all up.
  9. Why are you responding to another thread about this ?
  10. Nice copy and paste response from Matt at Haltech to an over 7 year old post there mate. The OP wasn't using a Haltech Elite either, he said a Haltech Platinum Pro so it's irrelevant to him. From the Haltech forum: https://forums.haltech.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=33838 I will give you some credit for bringing this up though, as it does need to be changed to avoid getting a random TPS ATTESA fault on the 32 and 33 GTR with a Haltech Elite 2000 / 2500. Most people probably don't know about this as to this day it is still incorrect in the GTR base maps. Was happening on both of our Elite 32s. A bit like the Elite speed signal set at 2450 pulses per km in the GTR base map - needs to be 1225 or you speed will be showing half of what it should be at the ECU. Haltech really should correct this in the base map for the GTR as I don't think this is common knowledge and why would it be - you'd expect these things to be correct in a GTR specific base map.
  11. That is probably the best outcome for having more power everywhere in this situation.
  12. As someone who has dealt with fuel system issues over the years, I thought I'd bump this information. A lot of people should read this as it answers a lot of questions regarding fuel system setup.
  13. Great responses there guys 👍. I'm sure this is exactly the sort of information and feedback that anyone in the market for a sequential is looking for and is much appreciated.
  14. What I can't get my head around with the PPG sequential is the fact that they went ahead and used a design that fits the standard case. This completely turned me off after getting my quote from them for $23.5k assembled in a standard housing which I would supply. Going to a custom housing like a Holinger, Albins or Samsonas allows them to move the main and counter shafts outwards away from each other, increasing gear diameter, therefore more material and increasing gear strength - if you are comparing between the same gear materials of course. The OS88 did this to increase strength, but are obviously made out of inferior materials in their gears compared to the sequentials mentioned, or else every OS88 you come across wouldn't have been recently rebuilt or in need if a rebuild. @[email protected] So Paul, Brett and anyone else with a PPG sequential, with the above mentioned do you honestly think the PPG is even close to the same league strength wise as the 3 sequential transmissions I mentioned ? What made you guys want to get one ? Don't get me wrong, I think Pfitzner is a fantastic company and have a fantastic product - but they still don't have a deep professional competition motorsport proven use like Albins or Holinger in racing. Genuinely and honestly, not because you own one, but what do you think objectively their long term reliability is in comparison ? Do you think it really is the best sequential for a GTR on the market ? Genuinely asking, I'm not having a go at anyone's choice of transmission.
  15. I say the PPG 5 speed H pattern, but I think you really need to hear from some OS88 end users to get a better picture. I would be interested to hear who is still running one and their opinions on them.
  16. OS giken with their OS88 state that, which is just covering their arse really. PPG early on with their H pattern had over 20000km without a teardown, proving that you can make them live without constant rebuilds. If you get to understand the mechanics of a dog box you'll understand what operational habits wear / damage them and what doesn't. At the end of the day they have to be unloaded to shift out of gear and synchronise the gear speed to select incoming gears without damage. Sequentials are are great for this with dog boxes when strain gauge ignition cut is implemented for gear changes, as it unloads the gearset just long enough for the shift event to occur correctly. Shifting down gears is especially more tricky again with dog engagement, as it's easier to overspeed or underdpeed the gears on the shift event. Things like throttle blip ECU control, again usually in sequentials help with this gear speed matching to stop gear underspeed on the downshift. This is why H pattern dog engagement boxes do actually require quite a fair bit of learning to get right, because the rev matching and gear unloading process is all completely manually done by the driver.
  17. Dude thanks for sharing, this is very interesting ! What's the go though - is it $3k euro and you have to source and send them a transmission to convert ?
  18. As above and Quaife do not make a synchro GTR sequential anyway - don't know where you got that from. Their current QBE91G GTR sequential is a choice of straight cut or helical gears, but it's still a dog engagement transmission.
  19. Yeah I've played with this on my -9 33 with this with Tomei cams. Ended up going back to stock cams with I think about inlet advance 4 and exhaust cam retarded 2 degrees. I think -9s would actually respond to a 10mm+ high lift cam with less than 260 duration, but most people are not going to do such big head modifications with such small turbos, or twins at all. You are completely right though, but cams just not worth it to increase 10 - 15w at most top end.
  20. Yeah but with -9s car will still be slower for a streeter, even with the most baby drop in L182-A Kelford cams. You're right though with the Tomei valve springs, how shit are they ? Caused me nothing but problems. The Tomei type B is, how did you put it, "made from a child's faeces" 😂 That still cracks me up.
  21. Hi again Matty. Just do the cam gears and keep the stock cams with your -9 turbos. If you cam it you will absolutely make more power, but your car will be slower everywhere except the drag strip. Your call
  22. Kudos sell the entire front screen trim and seal kit. I have done it and it's a pain in the arse. You will absolutely not save all of the coloured clips under the side trims - they will be brittle and just snap. Inner door strips for white 32 arrived today. They are about $90 - $100 each. It's the upper outer weatherstrips that are killer at over $1400 a side....Fk that !
  23. So with being so time restricted this year, progress on the blue 32 has been a bit hit and miss. With working away so much at the moment and pushing hard with the white 32 restoration project it's been hard to get anything done on this 32, and have pretty much forgotten I even have a 33 or a WRX. Seriously, I've worked on my Ford Territory more than this car in the last 3 months prepping it for towing the blue 32 with things like complete fluids and filter changes, new rotors and pads all round, ZF 6 speed heat exchanger delete, front mount PWR transmission oil cooler, steel transmission sump upgrade, tailshaft centre bearing replacement, door lock motor and central locking repairs, Whiteline suspension arm and shock bush replacements - I may as well have a Ford Barra thread ! Amazingly, in between all this the blue 32 has had a few things looked at and done. First off, was I actually got the new R33 GTR BM57 brake master cylinder installed on the car. Because of being so pedantic I was only going to install it after I could find the exact plug new for the BCNR33 BM57 low level reservoir connector. Well after over a year of searching I found you could buy the plug to suit the 33 BM57 from Ford Motorcraft in the US (I have since updated the R33 BM57 master cylinder thread on the specifics). Well I always thought that the brakes felt much better on my R33 GTR because of the braided lines and Brembos, but after the change on the 32 to the BM57 the master cylinder definitely has a lot to do with it. The pedal feel is dramatically different compared to the BM50 - I like it. Next up was to actually get this car properly running for the first time on flex fuel setup with E85. So off we go to get a drum from BP, as we don't have E85 at our United fuel stations here - grrr ! Entire fuel system is E85 compatible so no worries - sort of. I have an AEM 400 lph E85 lift pump in the tank, Speedflow 200 series lines and Bosch EV14 1550cc injectors which is all well and good, but the surge tank still has the twin Bosch 044 external pumps from the surge tank to the rail. It should be ok for the moment, but their own specs from Bosch for 044 pump life is approx. 3000 hrs on gasoline and a significantly reduced 500 hours on E85. Probably not much stress for me as the car will only run on E85 maybe 10% of the time but I do have another two AEM 400 lph E85 pumps to replace the 044s when I need to swap, as I know a few of you (like Paul above) have had issues with E85 and 044s. Because they are the same physical dimensions as the 60mm diameter Bosch external pump they are a direct no modification replacement. Anyway filled her up half E85 half BP 98 for testing purposes, made some adjustments in the Elite and what do you know, the car ran perfectly pretty much straight of the bat, which I was not expecting. Went for a drive and was around the 30 - 40% ethanol content. When it got down I put just E85 in and got to about 70% and still ran well. I even put in a fuel density temperature compensation table into the Elite thanks to Johnny Dosepipe ! Thanks heaps for that man as it didn't even occur to me to do that. So now my car was happy on E85 the next thing was to pull the crank angle sensor off again, hopefully for good. It was time to finally go trigger, I chose the Ross performance setup even though it is the most expensive route over the Hi octane, 5-0 or PRP kits for a few reasons which I preferred after looking at them all. The trigger teeth are on the balancer, the way the crank trigger sensor is mounted to the sump, the housing for the cam home trigger looks a lot neater and mounts the home trigger sensor side on (instead of front on like all the other kits I've seen) and the overall superior finish to the others being all in black and the ability to run Honeywell GT101 hall effect sensors instead of ZF cherry sensors. So for a bit of run down this is what I did- Purchased and used a male crank angle sensor connector and used Deutsch DT connectors so I could make up an entire trigger sub loom setup that is completely plug in. Means reverting back to crank angle sensor or replacing trigger sensors is completely plug and play. But before I did this a temporary ghetto sub harness was made up and used just to prove proof of operation before committing to the final wiring. Didn't want to do it and then have to pull it all apart again ! Mounting the cam home trigger was straight forward, but there was a hiccup regarding the cam home which I'll discuss at a later date (and once I have run it past Ross performance themselves) Now I was running a Ross harmonic balancer before, but had to upgrade as my existing one did not have the provision to mount the 12 tooth crank trigger teeth plate. Install is well, like any other balancer. Did my crank bolt torque with a 3/4" Snap-On torque wrench to exactly 460Nm whilst flywheel locked. My only gripe with the new one is that you can't see the bloody timing marks properly with a timing light when your trying to crank. The marks are there and in 1 degree increments, but they aren't marked the entire edge width of the balancer like the old one or even a stock one so you get a bit lost. No big deal, just had to scribe the 0, 10 and 20 marks wider on the balancer for setup which you can see in the pics. So after balancer is installed the next thing was to install the sump bracket for the crank trigger sensor and the sensor itself. The excellent bracket picks up the two centre sump bolts and the GT101 sensor is just held in by one 6mm allen key bolt. Now the GT101 sensors have to be shimmed to get the correct gap, which Ross includes a heap of shims with the sensors in two sizes - 2.5mm and 1.0mm. After putting a 3 pin connector on the GT101 and spiral wrapping it I mounted it with the intention of getting as close to 40 thou or 1.0mm as possible. I ended up using two 2.5mm and three 1.0mm shims and ended up with a gap of 48 thou or about 1.2mm which is within tolerance for GT101 sensors. The GT101 will run happily up to a gap of about 2mm which was another reason I chose them as they seem to be more forgiving with your air gap. Anyway with what I had if I needed close it up under 1.0mm I could always take one 2.5mm out and put in two 1.0mm shims in its place, which I didn't need to. Here's a few more shots of how I routed the sub loom to keep it away from the belts. So with the temporary wiring still in place up top I decided I'd better find my TDC offset angle. This proved to be a bit of a bastard as I really had no idea where I was timing wise. I bolted the home sensor housing onto the cam gear cover in about the middle and bolted the cam home sensor into the housing, which is at a preset gap of 1.3mm - 1.4mm without shims which seemed a little large to me, even though it should work fine. I called Ross (there is no instructions or drawings supplied with the kit) and they confirmed on their drawings that the gap is right so I turned the injectors off, set ignition timing lock on and set to 0, put a spark lead between coil 1 and the spark plug, hooked up a timing light, started cranking and flattening my battery looking for the 0 mark on the crank. I actually had two batteries hooked up in parallel while doing this but eventually I got in the ballpark and could see my timing marks while I was somewhere in the 350 TDC offset range. I thought well I'm close-ish so I'll fine tune it later. I remove the temp wiring and complete the final sub loom and cam home wiring. I even used a new original CAS loom plastic cover to locate the home sensor cabling to the cam gear cover which ended up like this - Finished product - So after finishing the wiring I went back and tried again to find my TDC offset angle. Now I started at 350 and went up and down until I got it smack on at 390 - and it is definitely 390. If I went 389 or 391 I would move ever so slightly either side of the 0 mark. Very happy about that so I double checked my settings - note trigger signal pullups should be set to on which negates the need to wire in 2.4k resistors which you have to do if you don't have a pullup option. On an Elite you have a 2.4k or 1k pullup (strong) option. Fired it up after confirming settings again, which ended up like this - Ok the engine is running after I disabled the timing lock, no trigger or sync errors and initial timing against light vs ECU looks to be spot on. So the last thing was to do was verify that I am infact half way between crank trigger teeth with my cam home signal as I just centered the cam home housing. This was piss easy on the Elite as there is a log channel called "home percentage of valid travel". When the engine was running it displays a value between 0 - 100%. The idea is to get as close to 50% as possible on this channel, which will verify that you are infact home triggering half way between crank trigger events. I got it pretty much dead on 50% rotating the cam home housing, but it will fluctuate because of timing belt whip, which you can see fluctuating between 48 - 52%. This is of course normal as it is also demonstrating how much the timing belt actually rubber bands around, and why a crank trigger kit is preferred in the first place. Initial impressions were very good after test driving - the car behaves exactly as it should at idle, nice smooth throttle response, aircon loaded driving etc... and to think I had it sitting here for so long ! Next up on this car is to add a second pre-rail fuel filter and stage my external fuel pumps so I'm not driving around with 3 fuel pumps constantly flat out. Might be able to start that this weekend since the white 32 is now at the panel shop. I cannot wait until these bloody 32s are close to finished and tuned.
  24. That's because it's not a separate trim, It's part of the entire door rubber. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/80830aa102
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