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BK

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Everything posted by BK

  1. Out of curiosity, what did you use for sealant and what box oil you running ?
  2. Wow ! that ! was ! really ! hard ! to ! read ! Stop ! using ! So ! Many ! exclamation ! Marks ! Explaining ! Your ! Problem ! ☺ FYI This also should be listed in the more suitable drivetrain and transmission section. Anyway your problem I take it is your car basically pulls left under power ? If you have crappy clapped out standard diffs front or rear in your car, your diffs are open wheeling and pulling you to the left. Very common with stock worn GTR diffs actually. Like KiwiRS4T said, put car into 2wd and repeat, as at least it will point towards the front or rear diff causing the pull. Brown "oilsplashs" is probably actually grease from a split front cv outer boot, and needs to be addressed ASAP. If the front diff centre is gone it will make some fairly noticeably horrendous noises too, worse under load. Please report back after more diagnosis.
  3. Awesome then ! Hopefully the milk you picked was the 100% full cream stuff, none of this gay fat free shit ! 😃
  4. Hey mate on a more serious note, please tell me you used Threebond 1207C sealant on the bottom three front cover bolts and NOT threadlocker (or even worse nothing) ? Had to pull my dog box out of my 32 on the weekend, after the one box we didn't do ourselves and outsourced pissed oil out of the front cover. Noticed a slight drip under bellhousing and though fcuk, they didn't did they ? Found this as expected... Pretty annoying to pull a box out to reseal 3 bolts, but said transmission specialist was very apologetic after I showed him the stuff up. We didn't check front cover before install, but why would we ? It was done by a very experienced transmission specialist that knows what they're doing, so it can and does happen to anyone. It is in the Nissan manual after all so no excuse.... Check, check, check
  5. yeah fuel SHOULD be ok with enough head room on 98Ron. My 33 with GT-SS on 22psi boost is around 70 -75% duty with Denso 700cc injectors, stock rail, stock fpr, Nismo 280lph in tank pump and twin 80mm Z32 afm.
  6. For farks sake mate, WD40, CRC 5.56 ect is fine in a pressurised can so you can spray it, and what MOST mechanics who work on these jobs to free up the nuts and bolts will use in the real world.
  7. Yep, maybe the catback section to the muffler is more restrictive than the cat itself. Needs to be dynoed with front pipe only as I originally suggested and done myself to get a clear baseline of what's what. Are they saying they won't dyno it like that ?
  8. I don't know what cat he's running but the current 80mm Apexi super cats are 130cpi which is awesome. They are also $1200 - $1400.... ouch.
  9. Thought so new kid 😄 good stuff 😊 Squirt some actual oil around the sychros next time you do a box and I bet it'll never happen again to you.
  10. More info is really good like what motor and if you have a turbo and if so is it water cooled CHRA. The rear nipple in your first pic is the coolant FEED to the turbo, and RETURNS to the top radiator hose fitting. No water cooled turbo, block both ends. Done, no air bubbles as these are below the coolant bleed screw on the intake manifold anyway.
  11. Did you read my post from 10 years ago ? Unless you have run it on the dyno with just the front pipe any visual inspections of it being ok are purely just speculation. My cat "looked" ok. Run car on dyno and barely made any power as mentioned. Mid range was pathetic compared to what it should have been. We then jumped straight under the car, unbolted the exhaust at the front pipe and let the cat back just hang there under the car, so the exhaust was purely just the manifolds, turbos, dump pipes the into front y pipe. Run it without touching anything and car went straight back up power. It was 360ish kw from 250ish kw, but Remember the exhaust was completely open. Sounded awesome. The build to boost was also affected by the blocked cat, making the car build boost really, really slowly. Your boost curve looks very slow to build, which it also pointing to excessive backpressure. I dont think your problem is as bad as what mine was. With no restriction the turbo should go from 0 - 20psi in around 1000rpm - 1500rpm when nailed. Power range depending on dyno type with 98ron at 22psi should be anywhere between 290 - 350kw with a full exhaust fitted. I've noticed around 310 - 330kw generally on different dynos. Max boost efficiency is 1.6bar for GT-SS / -9 turbos so about 23-24 psi. You better hope its your cat causing it or you have way bigger problems somewhere else to worry about.
  12. I will just leave this here.... https://www.google.com.au/url?q=https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275003-power-fc-boost-control-problems/&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwi94LOcnYvlAhXLfH0KHQnQA0UQFjAKegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw1J7_FcGHgsnQ2az9CtrPHA So have you dropped the cat yet ?
  13. Definitely sounds like 4th synchro is not letting go. Usually some oil squirted there fixes it and sounds like you're onto it being a dry problem. Have seen that happen on our boxes, and have had calls about boxes doing that with new sychros we have supplied.
  14. No 32 and 33 have the same turbos - shitty ceramic turbine wheel turbos that all eventually go bang at 14psi+, unless you have an N1. 33s run a bit more boost and have a better intercooler (32 - 60mm vs 33 - 75mm cores) than 32s and that's where they made their extra grunt.
  15. Both the Castrol and Motul is generally around the $30 - $45 a litre range. Most other reputable oil companies have diff oil in that range too, Castrol and Motul just seem to be the top pick and Castrol is readily available. Castrol used to be the most recommended by companies like Holinger and Albins until the Motul stuff came along.
  16. My $0.02. In other words, crown wheel and pinion is rooted. Maybe not totally rooted but if it's making noises the damage has been done and they're on the way out. Need new MATCHED set, installed and shimmed correctly for correct gear backlash. There is no magic fix for worn diffs and no additive is going to fix it, no not even that Redline crap everyone raves about. I stuffed mine that bad in one of my GTRs in the front (where people usually run lighter oil) that the crown wheel and pinion gears were actually razor sharp to the touch, which is a lot of wear if your familiar with crown and pinion gears. It made all sorts crazy noises under load, and why your noise is appearing once the diff oil is hot and thinner in your differential. I will never run ANYTHING other than 75w - 140 in any GTR diff front or rear again after that. After 19 years of GTR ownership anyone who runs stuff like 75w - 90 in any GTR diff front or rear is asking for trouble. I know it's a gtst but same thing basically. Anyone tells you to run 75w - 90 is a dickhead and asking for a diff rebuild, unless changed very regularly and / or has very little power. It's all about protecting the crown wheel and pinion and the heavy stuff does the job, especially when most people don't drop their diff oil that often. Motul comp gear 75w - 140 or Castrol Syntrax 80w - 140 (used to be SAF-XA) or you may as well put water in your diff.
  17. https://www.google.com.au/url?q=https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/471502-speedtek-gearset-review/&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwiXi9f4lPzkAhXfILcAHS0YBa4QFjABegQIChAB&usg=AOvVaw3P5URVUvVwroCJpRHPZOKn https://www.google.com.au/url?q=https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465819-speedtek-vs-ppg-gear-set-what-the-best-value-gear-set/&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwiXi9f4lPzkAhXfILcAHS0YBa4QrAIwAXoECAoQAw&usg=AOvVaw3ABbE2zPnnJuNbRJhI5AYn Better than OS Giken ? Don't think so mate. Not saying OS Giken is unbreakable, but definitely proven to be fairly reliable up to certain power levels. Manufacture and fit is consistent, unlike what has been mentioned about Speedtek. If you break an OS giken set you needed something better than that anyway. Be wary of "guarantees", especially when it comes to gearsets.
  18. The software 2.132 is the FCdatalogit software and is the last release from over 8 years ago. To connect to ECU you need the FCdatalogit input expander box, or FChako interface cable.
  19. Yes aftermarket gearboxes are not cheap. Will it handle the 9180 ? Thats anyone's guess, but the same can be said about any gearbox. Torque ratings are subjective. Most performance gearset manufacturers (Pfitzner, Holinger, Albins ect) are a little wary of labelling their stuff with a definitive rating, because as soon as something fails people jump up and down about it not performing to the specified rating. All I can tell you is that the PAR gearsets are made out of EN36C steel. Holinger is a little more vague saying they use a VAR chrome nickel by comparison. Pfitzner do not disclose their material type at all, same as Albins stating they use their own "propriety grade material". Here's my take on aftermarket gearboxes: All dog boxes are a bit of a gamble as all, and I mean ALL dog boxes will fail eventually if not properly looked after, some sooner than others. So many factors come into it - design, assembly quality, torque applied to gears, conditions of use, lubricants used, thermal management, operation technique and so on.You don't hear about when the PPG, OS88 and Holinger's fail as much because they are so expensive. No one wants to really say they've destroyed a $20k - $30k transmission publicly, but they will all fail at some point if not looked after and managed / used correctly.
  20. Yes the R32 GTR ECU most certainly wants the 32 Titania version. There is a different setting in the Power FC to change in the ETC menu for the O2 sensor reg setting depending on R32 Titania or R33 Zirconia sensors. From Apexi: There is a difference in the O2 Sensor for these vehicles. (With or without internal register) After tuning, please check () "O2 Sensor REGISTER" for BNR32, and NOT for BCNR33. So off (+ sign) for R33 O2 sensors. I have my BCNR33 set like this in my Apexi Power FC. I don't know how the Haltech Elite deals with it as I have no narrowband O2 sensors fitted on my 32 (use CAN wideband) and have them turned off in the ESP software. Nistune is also onto this, here's what they have to say: NIStune Using R32 GTR ECU on R33 GTR - Updated The R32 ECU is a plug-in job and works seamlessly in the R33 except that they use different O2 sensors (and heaters for the O2 sensors are wired differently). Both easily fixed. Sensors: R32 uses a titania sensor. These sensors don't produce a voltage themselves - they're resistive. So resistance changes between rich and lean. This type of sensor produces a voltage of between approx 0V for lean to 1V for rich. R33 uses a zirconia sensor. This type of sensor produces a voltage of between approx 0V for lean to 1V for rich. When running these sensors with an R32 ECU you'll find that they still work but the voltage range is different (read lower). The lean/rich trigger voltages must be adjusted using NIStune. Monitor the voltages in NIStune and adjust the rich/lean trigger voltages as required. Sensor heaters: R32 runs the heaters whenever IGN power is on. R33 ECU controls the heaters itself by supplying GND (the heater has 12V supplied to the other side whenever IGN is on) to turn heaters on. So what we need to do is supply GND to the heaters so they operate the same as R32 - they're on whenever IGN is on. This is done inside the ECU by linking O2 sensor GND (pin 50) to the pin used for heater GND by the R33 ECU (pin 115). R32 GTR heaters AND SENSOR get ground from pin 50. R33 GTR heaters AND SENSOR get ground from pin 115. On R32 GTR ecu pin 115 is not connected. On R33 GTR ecu pin 115 provides heater ground. So to provide this GND using the R32 ECU we simply need to bridge pin 50 to 115 with a wire link. http://nistune.com/docs/R32 GTR ECU on R33 GTR.pdf
  21. Sold pending payment: NEW R32 GTR genuine Nissan Pitwork power steering belt 4PK950 NEW R32 / R33 GTR lower gearbox shifter boot Used R33 GTR genuine rear upper control arms Used R32 GTR genuine rear upper control arms
  22. Yes you need an OS Giken hub specifically. Although sorry to say TS2BD does not have an interchangeable centre hub like the R series (R3C, R4C), the hub is part of the friction plates. This design makes it more expensive to rebuild the clutch as opposed to most high end multi plate designs, because the centre hubs are dampened and part of the plate, instead of solid and having a separate hub. So in your case you would need a different clutch to run the 26 tooth input shaft which kinda sucks for you. Id sell the clutch and get a modular type clutch. See what I mean below: TS2BD R3C
  23. R32 GTR = 12mm thread R33 / R34 GTR = 18mm thread like most wideband sensors (NTK, Bosch) That's why a lot of dump pipes like HKS come with the reducers to suit all models of sensor, as I have a set of reducers that came with my HKS dumps that I didn't use as they were fitted to my 33 and weren't required. All are 3 wire, all are 0 -1v, but front sensor has square 4 pin plug (still only 3 wire) and rear has rectangular 3 pin plug. That said I think they do bugger all in the grand scheme of things, and are probably only worth retaining on stock ECUs. On a side note I believe it is nearly impossible to decode engine numbers with year and model makes, as this info is not contained within Nissan FAST. This means even Nissan can't tell you. The only thing I've noticed is RB26 blocks that were fitted from factory all seem to end with an A.
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