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Everything posted by BK

  1. What EXACTLY is the problem ? Turbo that does not pressure, what the hell does that mean ? No boost at all ? No boost on one turbo ? Boosting, but not as much as you would like ? You really need to explain, elaborate and detail the symptoms of this so called problem - if infact there is one.
  2. Hey mate, pull your head in. You come onto this site, talk utter incoherent garbage, and then call someone an asshole. Good work, you'll get your answers doing that. It is clear that english is not your first language and are having trouble getting your point across, as nothing in the way you say things makes any sense to any of us. If we know what you're on about sure, people will try to help you, but I suggest SAU is not the place to be asking about compound turbo diesel modifications on a BMW.
  3. I will be very surprised if it will be a complete bolt in solution. If it exists, has anyone even fitted this combo into an R32 - R34 GTR yet ? When it is said that they sell a complete box only, is that a box that bolts to the transfer, or a complete box with a transfer developed ? The reason I'm asking is there is so much more to fitting this and getting it working than just whether the bell housing bolt pattern is correct and whether a transfer bolts to the back of it. If it is a box that has to bolt to the existing transfer, it still potentially opens up a can of worms getting it to work. If so, my questions would be: -Does the shifter linkage rail on the box connect at the correct shifter length and location within the transfer case ? That is how do you connect the shifter from the box to within the transfer case ? There is no way those boxes locate the shifter rail in the exact position required for the transfer case. -Does the entire assembly bellhousing to transfer end up the same length ? If not custom front and rear tail shafts are needed, and the shifter itself will not lineup within the chassis. -Does the box physically fit in the tunnel area or the GTR chassis without any tunnel modification ? Is a custom box cross member and box mount required ? -Dimensions of input shaft ? What spline (probably GM 26t, 28.5mm) but more importantly what length and spigot end size goes into crank ? Full custom clutch dimensions maybe required because of below: -Release mechanism setup of clutch ? Adapting if possible to RB style clutches. I could go on, but the devil is always in the details. Unless all if these issues have been addressed, then it could end up more costly than what it's worth compared to complete already available bolt in solutions. Interested to see how this develops and if anyone goes down this path.
  4. Nearly all compressor cover boost ports are 1/8npt, 27tpi across BW, Garrett and Precision.
  5. 🤣 Isn't it ? Yep just a raised up pallet, so something you can put the centre plate on, have the long front sections of the shafts pointing down while you're tapping them out. Easier than trying to tap them out sideways when the centre plate and geaset is mounted in a vice. Finished the teardown and rebuild on the old man's box and transfer case modification yesterday. A photo I thought you might find interesting proof of why not to use any smooth shift additives or anything but GL-4 oil in a GTR synchro box. This is a synchro from 1st, it is completely stuffed and has been attacked by incorrect oils being in the box. Nulon and Penrite additives are terrible for doing this. The new one is the shiny one obviously, and the discoloured one actually has some parts of the synchro teeth missing also. The gear also had a lot of synchro teeth missing, all stuck to the box drain sump plug.
  6. You are correct, a loosely thrown around interval is 5000km, but that is largely dependant on the operator. Someone who is very skilled at changing gears in an H pattern dog box will cause little to no wear on the dog teeth faces. Same thing with a sequential with correctly setup strain gauge strategies correctly unloading the gears on shift, very little dog wear will occur. On the flip side someone just bashing a dog box around not shifting correctly will wear the flat sides of the dogs very quickly, to the point where they will jump out of gear on the slightest gear unload. This where km on box is not a good gauge for inspection, rather inspection intervals at X amount of hours, or x number events completed. You are also correct in the dog gear replacement. The main shaft gears usually have dog teeth on the side an a separate sliding dog that matches to it. What you have to replace can only be determined on a box teardown, so it is not impossible to predict what you're likely to need. Sometimes with only slight wear on the dog teeth you can get prolong the gear or sliding dog needing replacement by regrinding the dog teeth from being rounded off to square again. This will buy you more time with needing to replace anything, but eventually round again and need to be replaced. The biggest problem is that any of the above requires the box to be removed from the car, disassembled and inspected, possibly repaired, reassembled and reinstalled again - whether you replace anything or not. This is where the main cost in keeping a dog box alive is, not necessarily the cost of any parts that may or may not need to be replaced. When someone chooses to go dog engagement this has to be just accepted as the norm, and is the main reason why a synchro box makes more sense for a dedicated street only car.
  7. Awesome ! That's just the collar for $45 right ? What's main shaft 3rd gear set you back, about $150 - $200ish ? Tapped them shafts out yet ? If you haven't, just put it on something like this, shafts facing down, and just alternate tap each shaft. Should come right out. SHOULD....
  8. I think really just comes down to the inadequate design of the collar puller tool not exerting all of the force purely into the collar you are removing. My one has a perfectly neat fit on shaft, no slop, and is made out of pretty heavy duty steel. All force is transferred directly only into collar. Your setup was obviously straining the bolts too much. That sucks man because you have to get the collar off the other one and reuse it still.
  9. That won't cause flames as a sequential box is always going to be superior on the circuit, but that's not necessarily what we're all talking about is it ? It's a far too simplistic view, as not everyone wants a Sequential or dog box. Some people want helical gears, some straight cut gears. Some want synchro, some want dog engagement. But some people want an H pattern, or any combination of the mentioned configurations in a transmission. Driving an H pattern, synchro box on street is always going to be the easiest box to operate. I happen to like straight cut gears and dog boxes, but I like H pattern too. Albins and Holinger have been proven to make quality gear, but being sequential doesn't automatically mean stronger by definition. I hope your not under the impression you are going to spend $25k - $30k on a box and it be indestructible. The sequentials are not a set and forget fix, require regular teardowns like any dog engagement, and they also can break just like any other box. A sequential would be the last thing I would want, or need, on a mainly street driven car.
  10. Can't do that, you're slowly loading everything up, hence why you're breaking shit. Rattle gun is the only way. You need that one quick burst shock to initially crack the collar. Once that is done, short bursts of the rattle gun until it's off. Remember you have to heat that collar up and expand it to get it back on, so it's always going to be on there stupid tight. My collar tool has held up doing them all this way, using a 2 jaw puller on the collar sleeve tool. Never broken or replaced the high tensile bolts ever.
  11. Really ? That is some serious retardedness...
  12. Hard one mate. I like my PAR dog, but definitely fix the PPG box whether you keep or sell though. What happened to it ?
  13. You did use a rattle gun on your puller right ?
  14. Hahaha, was wondering what you're next post might be ! No mate, they are absolutely that tight. Completely normal. Getting the shafts out now -
  15. A few key points I'll mention about those wanting a Giken gearset which are usually overlooked. There was a reason I posted this - they have been very hard to get and RHD seems to be the pick for supply. They are in stock now, but next shipment is September or October if you miss out. Also those Greenline prices will absolutely not be updated, their site is terrible for this. This is about the cost breakdown of doing a box just for you guys thinking of doing one - The kit with input / no 5th is about $4.3k and with 5th about $5k before tax or shipping. With Covid-19 at the moment means no EMS from Japan either, so only shipping option will be by international courier = expensive. Usually DHL, which means you absolutely will pay GST as DHL are pricks for always picking this up. If you've got an old box budget about $1000 for series 3 upgrade parts and about a 1 - 2 month wait. Want a centre plate (recommended) ? Budget another $1200 - $1500. Want a GM / Holinger 26t spline upgrade ? Special order input shaft, and custom machining out of your existing gearbox front cover another 3.5mm diameter to fit it. Cost $500+ Can't get box in and out of car yourself ? $500 from workshop for box out. Same again for box back in, $500. Can't assemble gearset yourself ? Minimum $2k box strip and reassembly. Getting pretty close to a $10k box now, without a clutch. ....and they do break.
  16. And you'll kill another one. There isn't any difference in strength, the synchros are just revised slightly for better shifting. There is bugger all difference between the boxes really, I don't know why Nissan even bothered. About 10 parts were changed.
  17. On a GTR, a real bastard if the box is in the car, as they are up fairly high in the tunnel. I replaced them while my box was out. On the 2wd models it will be a bit easier.
  18. Unless you have the wrong lower bush on the bottom it won't be that. (Note - the R34 GTR has a smaller one than the 32/33 GTR and R34 GTT. The 33 gts is larger than both again). Did you get the right lower bush ? The centre return may appear to "work" fine and spring back to centre, but the springs do fatigue over time creating a sloppy shifter. On one of my GTR boxes the shifter was sloppy as, even with a brand new bush on the bottom and new lower locating cup. Got the gktech spring kit and fitted the 2 hardest springs - completely tightened the stick right up. This is in an h pattern dog box too so it really helps centralise the shift from 2nd to 3rd, which is important. Just try the springs, you will notice a difference.
  19. Look, I don't want this thread to be hijacked with neo vs 26 details, that's for another discussion, but for a start I'd take a 26 head over a neo any day. Look up the differences like neo head shim over bucket vs 26 shim under bucket, 26 unmodified heads flowing far more air than other RBs etc. Someone else can elaborate more on other differences if they want, but the point earlier was referring mainly to replacing the 26 in a GTR with a 25 being a bit silly. Hardly a GTR anymore is it ?
  20. I'm confused by this. You have an R33 GTR and you're saying you pulled the 26 out and replaced it with a neo 25 ? Why on earth would you do that ?
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