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Everything posted by BK

  1. Yep Otomoto or Just Jap in Australia for the 5 speed set. For you in Sweden if you want OS Giken source from Japan, best would be either RHDJapan or Nengun. OS-88 sequentials do have a 3 month lead time though if you're thinking leaning that way. Short ratio does not mean close ratio. Quaife, PPG, OS Giken 5 speeds have a really tall 1st gear compared to standard, then 2nd and 3rd are changed taller too to make 1st - 4th closer together. Ratios are: Standard 5 speed - 3.214, 1.925, 1.302, 1.000, 0.752 OS giken 5 speed - 2.695, 1.703, 1.236, 1.000, 0.826 (can have std 0.752 5th) final drive 4.111 Now have a look at R34 Getrag: 3.827:1, 2.360:1, 1.685:1, 1.312:1, 1.000:1, 0.793:1 final drive 3.545 Without 1st on a 4.11 it's similar ratios to a Giken 5 speed. May as well almost not use 1st in it, so what's the point of a getrag in a 32 / 33 unless you want a 50km/h Motorkhana gear ? For the cost vs quality you can't really beat the OS Giken 5 speed for a synchro helical setup.
  2. and are also apparently not very good for an over $20k box according to the UK guys. For more info Tim at Special Vehicle Services in the UK is actually how you obtain one, not through Quaife as they don't deal direct. Looked into it myself. For sequentials you will find more people in the UK with a GTR running a Holinger or OS Giken than a Quaife ( what does that tell you ?) OS giken or the Aussie stuff is where it's at if you live in Australia. From a local source I was warned "Quaife, good diffs, junk boxes"
  3. Some pics modifying a case. Note the final clutch pack clearance.
  4. Look what arrived this morning.... Trial fitting to the Nitto 2.8. So much smaller than the HKS
  5. Ok dude, are you in Australia ? What's the car used for ? How much power do you have? Why do you want or need a different box ? Are you looking for dog or synchro ? Are you wanting to change "just because" or have you broken it ? Answer these first. 1 - An OS Giken is not 12 month wait for gearset or OS-88 sequential. 2 - Getrag is a very costly option and not worth it in my opinion unless you want stupid short ratios. 3 - PPG is good and get what you pay for. Are you referencing 5 speed h pattern helical synchro, helical dog, straight cut dog or 6 speed helical sequential dog ? 4 - Speedtek, ha ! Brave person to buy that heap of shit. Steer clear ( check the forum why ) 5 - Considered PAR ? They do not suck anymore (sales is a bit shit with supply sometimes) and are very comparable to the Pfitzner gearsets in reliability now. Speak to Sam at Neat Gearboxes in Adelaide regarding this option, as he quite familiar with them and speaks very highly of them. (he does isotropically super finish and shot peen all of the gearsets, shafts and selectors if optioned to for extra strength before assembly though, even PPG and Giken is recommended to do this.) Oh and forgot possible option 6, get a Holinger for $28.5k.
  6. Setting the final clutch pack clearance after plate modification is key and requires doing the plate mod in two steps. Too tight (under 0.2mm) and transfer will drag plates constantly and burn out. Too loose and obviously doesn't fully lock. Proper way to get clearance is to change the rear retaining plate thickness (they come in 0.2mm increments from about 4.6 - 7.0mm), so it's not actually "shimming" like adding or removing extra shims to change a clearance. My old man does them all the time and have noticed a few particular specific things you have to watch out for when doing them, as you can stuff it up fairly easily if you don't know, off the top of my head, -Setup with the plate clutch pack clearance MUST be done the with Attesa actuator installed. If not the clearance will end up too tight and basically lock transfer up permanently. -final plate arrangement count can't change ie. has to always start with 5.0mm retaining pressure plate and change clearance with rear retaining plate AND - has to always end up at combined metal and friction plate count of 19 (from standard 7 friction 12 metal arrangement to 10 friction 9 metal or anywhere in between that) -plate at each end of the 19 MUST be a friction disc, that contacts each retaining plate -metal plates have to be carefully reassembled to make sure they don't block oil feed holes into drum (which they can) -presoak friction discs in ATF before reassembly to embed fluid into material. Can rip off friction disc plate material on new unused plates if not done. -checking transfer oil pump sealing
  7. I run a Blitz LM spec 100mm on my 33 Gtr. 98 unleaded, 330kw at wheels, 22psi, HKS GT-SS turbos, stock radiator, stock thermostat, 700cc injectors, power fc, nismo 280l/hr fuel pump, stock gtr intercooler piping, stock long engine. Just had hottest summer here with temps over 45 deg C for 4 months, no dramas. Something else is up with your setup. Something tells me maybe you don't have what you think you have as the Blitz 100mm LM intercooler has less than 1 psi pressure drop at 1.5bar / 22 psi across core and cools enough for stupid hp.
  8. If not mine are available. Same 1000cc Denso / Sard ones. These injectors need the Denso high guide plugs for them, not stock square EV1 Bosch type like stock. Can get pigtail adaptor from eBay for like $50.
  9. I'm similar to this in a way. I just think: R32 GTR - go to town. Big hp street/drag/circuit car. R33 Gtr - modified stock engine if possible. Everything without changing engine ie. Stock bottom end if possible and low mounts. High mount means completely modified. R34 Gtr - completely stock, maybe wheels, exhaust and filters - that's it. Have the first two boxes checked. 89 GTR 92000km (bought at 80000km in 2008) and 95 GTR 82500km (bought at 67000km in 2004). Spewing not getting an R34 when they were circa $40k, thought that they were too similar to R33 mechanically (apart from getrag box and not ceramic turbines, what's the big deal with 34s ?) Anyone wanna sell me an R34 for $50k - $60k so I can complete my trio ? Sold my last 91 R32 gtr for $17k (around 140000km in 2007) , fffffffck it. Might see it if I can get it back as I know it's sitting in a paddock wasting away.
  10. a pick of the part number on back would be great. Then you can just google it and find out what it's for. There will be a p/n on it somewhere.
  11. Come to Alice Springs, nightly occurrence for a town of 30k. Still they're absolute pieces of shit who do this kind of thing, pricks need to be accountable for what they've done to someone's pride and joy. Makes me so angry when I see things like this. I am really sorry.
  12. This might sound a bit stupid, but why do you need water / methanol injection to cool your charge unless your intercooler setup is garbage ? Plenty of 600 -700 Aussie kw at wheels setups without the need for it.
  13. Hanzo, couldn't wait, I ordered the Gen2 6466 T4 twin scroll in 1.00 a/r yesterday.
  14. Just do it as per Nissan with the sealant. There is Threebond, Loctite and Permatec stuff all for the job. The best stuff is Threebond 1207C reddish brown 320 degree C sealant, and is actually what Nissan repackages as their factory sump sealant. Yes Nissan resells the Threebond as their own.
  15. Also need to know as I'm going to purchase this soon (in the next week or so) in either 1.00 or 1.15 a/r for my Nitto 2.8
  16. These are quite specialised twin tube dampers, and are far from comparable to the regular twin tube out there with 20 - 30mm pistons. These have 40mm pistons which are similar to most mono tube dampers at around 40 - 45mm which is important. No doubt a good damper, hey it is Ohlins, and they are specialised suspension. Usually mono tube is better, above is an exception.
  17. The part number listed is the full damper kit part number, the part number in your pick above is the damper only part number. I take it that's the rear above, check your front, it should have a different number. Fulcrum suspension being the Tein Australian supplier and service company did release Australian spec super streets also, but I believe the Aussie stuff was made softer than the Jap stuff and don't know if this was done at a spring level or a damper valving level. I would suspect at a spring level as that would be easier than revalving. Give Fulcrum a call to find out as you may in fact have Aussie spec ones. Regardless, the spring rate is probably as listed by Tein. Twin tube does have it's pros, cheaper construction, lower gas pressures, but mainly that you can damage the outer body and it won't affect the operation of the damper piston moving as that runs on the inner tube. This would be the main reason all oem dampers are this way as if the damper has an external impact and damages the outer body, the damper is not a throw away like a mono tube. Obviously the valving in twin tube dampers is shit because the pistons are so much smaller compared to a mono design and that changes the valving oil orifice size, and why good performance dampers aren't usually twin tube. That's not true at all. Tein, HKS, Cusco ect. have all made mono tube dampers in the 90's. Tein RA were monotube. HKS hypermax III / IV are monotube, but remember they aren't a suspension company either. Can't really compare HKS, Greddy, ect. to Tein though as they are a suspension company only like Bilstein, Ohlins, Supashock ect. and they offer a much wider range from very entry level to their upper end performance stuff (like the dear as poison $5 - $20k dampers like Super racing, HT, Group N, N1 dampers). It's a shame they have appeared to have cut production costs on their lower end stuff. That said they have just released a proper replacement for the mono flex - the mono racing which is valved like the $5k+ Super racing damper allegedly and is around $2.5 - $3.5k.
  18. Freddy, 😆 That's gold ! I hope it actually says Freddy on it somewhere, It's almost as good as "Carrett" turbochargers...
  19. No flex z is twin tube still and not replacement for mono flex which is single tube, that is mono sport. Replacements are: Tein super street > street advance (both twin tube) still 5 / 4 on bnr32 Tein type flex > flex z (both twin tube) now 7 / 6 on bnr32 Tein mono flex > mono sport (both single/mono tube) now 10 / 8 on bnr32 All construction appears to be of a cheaper construction compared to the old lineup according to a few sources as I was going to get a set of mono sport for my Bcnr33. I think I'll go with the Ohlins mono tube after Tein has changed their lineup.
  20. Yep Con at CRD told me to get a Ross balancer since I was changing to a trigger kit, so full trigger kit with 12 tooth balancer was obtained. CRD did my Nitto 2.8 short motor. Haven't leaned on it yet so let's see how it goes. Before that I also was running the old Ross tuffbond balancer from new in 2011 and never had a problem with that either, no belts thrown. Before that I did destroy a factory balancer which cracked my crank in 4 places. Maybe people have been using 33/34 ones on 32s or visa versa regarding the belt issue as offset is different.
  21. Nah they're softer, front 5 and rear 4kg/mm. Bnr32 part number GSN14-B1SS3 I run Tein mono flex on bnr32 and they are 7 / 7 by comparison.
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