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BK

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Everything posted by BK

  1. As pointed out metric is really pascal in pressure. Kg/cm2 about as useful as measuring power in PS, and possibly HP for that matter instead of watts.
  2. Anything from Japan, but yes I know right ? I just see that measurement and instantly see it as bar, as its close enough to the same thing Also wanted to see if there was any acknowledgement of the fact of having no idea what the oil pressure is in this situation reading the factory gauge, as your not having 8bar cold idle or 4bar hot idle in reality are you ?
  3. I take it that's from the extremely inaccurate factory gauge ?
  4. Just missed this from Melbourne. I'd give em a call as I've just walked in there before and they've had stuff not listed. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php?id_product=2461&rewrite=nissan-skyline-r32-passengers-window-switch-&controller=product
  5. My 6466 on the 32 is 450kw/600hp + on 98 at 22-23psi. It's massively faster than the old T51 was at 29psi on 98 ron at over 520kw at wheels, and is safer in the knock department. You can definitely make 700, 800, 900hp on 98 at up to 30psi - but how safely ? The Precision 7685 is a massively, MASSIVELY more power productive turbo than a T51. You're going to reach that damaging knock point earlier at comparative power as cylinder pressures will be higher comparing pound for pound of boost.
  6. Motor sounds like it has a bottom end knock as mysteriously eluded to - especially first video. @Duncan has been very polite, and I commend you on your restraint there mate 😄, I won't be - It's fcked.... Noises like that don't get any better or go away by themselves. If in doubt - engine out.
  7. Remember with E85 it's potentially an 8 second car though 👍
  8. Door rubbers are still available new at about $300 a side. So are the front windows inner and outer trims. The weather strip retainers are too - for about $1200 + a side ! Discontinued original part number is 80960-01U00 - only chance new is via Yahoo auctions Japan. Only realistic way you'll get that switch trim is to find someone selling a used switch with it.
  9. One of the best from Adelaide
  10. Yeah but a 7685 on 15psi on 98 real world? My opinion ? Car will be still mostly asleep until 6000rpm even on a 3.2. With that turbo on low boost it'll be chopped on the street by a Yaris. Not a GR, a normal Yaris. This is a 1300hp + at wheels turbo - low boost and 98 is going to be shit. Not trying to shit on such an expensive combo but this setup is all about the top end and nothing else. It is never going to be a well rounded package. Still keen to see the actual outcome though - It needs E85
  11. Sorry didn't read the above ^ Correct, RB26 is clockwise. Nope. Physically externally the same but with a counter clockwise instead of clockwise rotation. Automatic ADM R31 / VL RB30 TPS. I think I now need glasses...
  12. Gktech one ? I think I'll go a poly one one the white 32 and a billet one in the blue 32. Crank arrived by the way, thanks again dude !
  13. FFS, Are you kidding me ?!!!!! They shoved the vacuum line onto the throttle return spring retainer rod didn't they - in the top left. Correct ??? Was they actually you ? 😁 Always good when fixes are easy and just stupid shit.
  14. Standard oil pressures for RBs from 33 manual: Definitely appears low and doesn't install confidence, but stock oil pump hot pressures of about 15 psi on an RB0/25 or above 22psi on a 26 are normal at idle. If you had a non standard oil pump its definitely a concern - our white 32 RB26 with tight bearing clearances has 15psi hot idle pressure with a Nitto pump. (not good) As mentioned you really need to ask the engine builder on what bearing clearances were set as large clearances reduce oil pressure. If clearances are larger like used for bigger power applications, larger pressure / volume oil pumps are fitted to compensate for this. Tread with caution as your higher rpm oil pressures are more concerning.
  15. I mean go for it if you feel like starting with a brand new box with the updated and more reliable 3rd/4th synchro setup. Your wiring noise just sounds like how they become after the gear mesh wears over time, not necessarily any particular worn bearing.
  16. No, but yes. Yes improved on synchromesh design, not on geaset. Not really significantly any better, and definitely not any stronger. It's like having a series 3 GTR box synchro wise. Read page 2 of this, I break it down.
  17. Yeah fair enough, but I bet there is a high chance to unstlck them and they will not be compromised. I know Bosch and ID actually recommend you to submerge them in fuel when in storage to prevent this (not that I've ever done or seen anyone do that). I have the same EV14 1550cc in the blue 32, but Denso EV1 700cc and 1000cc in the other two - all stuck even from 98. It's just weird when they do that after sitting and sticking because everytime I've sent them away, (to Adelaide mind you, not just down the road) they clean them first, then flow test them - and then EVERYTIME report there's nothing bloody wrong with them ! Grrr ! It just seems to stick them, not damage them and is completely random. I've had my 33 sit for 2 years without starting it before and not stick. Water getting into fuel and damaging fuel pumps is more likely - I think I'm on my 4th Nismo pump in the 33 in 18 years as they do fail from sitting.
  18. As long as it wasn't this one in 75w-85 your good.
  19. Same here, had this happen across all the GTRs with 700, 1000 and 1550cc types. Are you sure they are infact seized or just stuck ? How long were they cleaned for ? I have had all different sets injectors which once cleaned for 30mins + unstuck themselves. Sent them to be ultrasonically cleaned and tested and they come back pulsing and flowing fine. You have the Bosch EV14 1550cc yeah ?
  20. Nah should be spot on 👍 Your box is new yes ? It will shed a fair bit from new, a balance problem wouldn't have had an influence on gear to gear mesh, which is where most if the material comes from. Change intervals ? Change it in a year and see what it looks like. When new a good 500 -1000km first oil drop is generally the go.
  21. You beat me to it while I was typing this. Regarding mineral, Duncan mentioned somewhere in another thread about Terry at Award diff and gearbox recommending mineral with more frequent changes. I can definitely see the merit in that, getting rid of any excess metal in the box frequently. The same recommendation of changing gear oil after every event is for the same reason in dog engagement transmissions, to purge the metal shavings, regardless of oil type used. Obviously dog boxes shed more metal that synchro boxes but idea is the same for prevention of gear pitting and whatnot. The main advantage of using synthetic is the higher operating temperature break down point of lubrication, leading to longer interval changes which can be good or bad depending on how frequently you change transmissions oil. We generally break in / flush the synchro boxes with Castrol VMX-M mineral. Actually in our white 32 it still has it in it after 2500km including a 1500km drive to Adelaide on a rebuilt box and the shift quality is excellent. You mean If so I hope it's this one Not this one, it's GL-5 I wanted to both like and laugh at that one 😄
  22. Not the whole lot as Xclutch and NPC are Australian. Also RHDjapan will beat Nengun on delivered price everytime if ordering from Japan - check them out.
  23. Right, that clears things up a bit as I was under the impression Selby's just expanded and turned into Whiteline.
  24. Hmm... take it the obvious path of contacting Whiteline about a custom swaybar has been tried and is a no go ?
  25. Definitely agree the Nismo coppermix twin range drives very nicely and is more than enough for a lot of people's needs. We do have better singles available locally here than the UK though. NPC and Xclutch have singles that will happily take 400kw + at the wheels, which is why I find it ridiculous with OS giken single and twin clutches and how piss weak they are. This is mainly down to having a very light clamping load with their flimsy front cover and pressure plate. The only decent clutch they make is the R3C and R4C, which is not the sort of clutch you want in a daily driver.
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