Gojira5767

That makes sense. I will try it again tomorrow then. And I think I have the R34 FSM printed off somewhere. If I cant find it I will definitely use the link. Thanks! This is just such an odd problem, something has to be sending power to the compressor at all times. I may just replace the relay for kicks.

Ok, so I ran the diagnostic and came back with code 25(Sunload sensor). Does this cause the A/C to come on automatically when its faulty even when HVAC is turned completely off? Mode doors are all operational, and Diag Mode 4 shows "41"? Im assuming thats a blower motor check, as it turns it on during this mode. And on mode 5, the temp sensors are reading 31 & 32. Which I calibrated both to 31 degrees. I guess I need to replace the sunload sensor regardless huh? Also, I haven't noticed the A/C fan kicking on, but then again the temp hasn't gotten that high. I have Power FC's on both cars, so I am constantly monitoring it. But your right, the gauge doesn't accurately reflect how hot its actually getting.

I have actually watched the compressor engage with the climate controls off. ???

Thanks! I'll give that a go and update later today.

Very good question! She says that she notices that the compressor cycles on and off even when the climate control is turned off completely. She does notice that when she has recirc on and the Climate control off she doesnt feel cold air blowing through the floor vents. But if she has everything off and its on fresh air even on a hot day she still feels cold air on her feet. I have rode with her and experienced this as well. I just cant figure out why the compressor is getting power with the climate control turned off completely. Possibly a stuck/shorted relay?

So my wife's R33 A/C has been acting kinda funny lately. Even with the climate control turned completely off, the A/C still stays on. It blows very cold and all of the mode/blend doors are working properly, but it just won't stay off. Any ideas?

So i have one final bug to work out. On my hand controller i have THRM highlighted. I have read that it should be reading 3.6-3.7 volts. It currently reads .06v. How do i fix this? The trac light is on also. Any ideas. I found a thread on here but the link won't get me to it so I'm not sure how they fixed the problem.

You are correct my friend! Thanks again for the tips. Now all I have left to do is get it on a dyno hopefully in two weeks!

It is at a slightly higher rpm. I believe it to be due to a fuel issue because I don't know the correct injector lag time so I'm leaving that up to my tuner. My short little drive was my test to make sure there were no other issues that needed to be addressed before I get it tuned. It stayed on the rich side during that sound and i know that my plugs were a little fouled from earlier testing. New ones going in asap for safe measure.

Hopefully this link will work.

Update: After some ECU pin testing for backup power loss ( Thanks to PaulR33 for the idea) i found that I had none. Swapped the relay with a known working spare and no change. Went to fuse checking for the 1000th time, and I actually found one of the fuses for Engine Control in the engine bay was blown. This was a recent occurence, because I have been checking them periodically. After replacing that one, I continued to re-initialize the FC and re-load my map and settings. Things were looking better b/c the airflow write error didnt show up. I was in the process of cleaning the plugs and decide to check for spark for good measure and noticed no spark. I went back to the fuses for kicks and now the other Eng Cont. fuse was blown. I replaced that one and checked the other one, it was ok still. Spark came back at this point. Finally I was able to actually try and start the car with all of the settings saved in the FC and the car finally started! Now back to point A. Get the car tuned. THANKS TO ALL FOR YOUR RESPONSES AND INPUT! This is the best source for Skyline owners needs! And im not sure if anyone has found or linked this site, but I found some rather useful info on here: http://richr34.wordpress.com/

Ok. I will give that a try. I told the guy that has been trying to tune my car and he noticed it as well when he tried to update the air fuel meter it wouldn't take it for him and gave him the same error.

Honestly I did try that it didn't make any difference. I tried turning the car off then back on then rereading it then clicking air fuel meter and then changing it and it is still wouldn't write it. And just to clarify do I need to click the update button or write all?

I went into Datalogit and changed the MAF but it said "Airflow/PIM write error". Do I need to input any values next to the voltages? I will give it a shot though. Thanks for all your help btw.

Definitely getting adequate fuel. There is a gauge mounted on the rail and The pressure never drops below starting psi and the plugs are very wet and black from the 1.5 second start and stalls. I finally got a compatible serial to usb adapter (Dynex brand at Best Buy here in the states) and was finally able to initialize the FC but I don't know how/what to input MAF and injector settings. Z32 MAF and 1000cc injectors. Im fine wtih mechanical fixes but not so savvy with tuning. Any info on this?