180 wanabe
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Posts posted by 180 wanabe
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Hi there
I am after a S15 bonnet
any colour will do but would prefer yellow
PM me or txt me if you have one for sale
0401163847
Thanks
Stuart
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I had a decent look under the car when it was on the hoist everything appears to be fine
The new toe rods and camber arms were a fair bit heavier than the stock items so I agree with your fusible link comment
Camber arms were fine but I had adjustable ones put in at the same time just in case
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So this is what a custom toe rod looks like....
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I'm 99% sure its the toe/traction rod/arm whatever you want to call it, I'm hoping that I don't need to get camber arms as well
Now as I am trying to keep the car as roadworthy and defect free as possible dose anyone know what the deal is in QLD about rose joints?
I'm pretty sure years ago when I took my 180sx to the pits after it got defected I had to swap out my aftermarket castor rods for the stock ones as they got knocked back for having rose joints
Had a look at the Queensland transport website but was not able to find anything specific, can probably call them up on Monday to find out for sure but in the mean time if anyone knows
pretty sure that these ones from just jap are rose joints
http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=16572&cat=&page=2
these ones on ebay look more like urethane/rubber
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Now I'm a little confused, are toe arms and traction rods the same thing?
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after a quick look on google seems I have bent one of my toe arms
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So went to the Friday night drifts and was having a pretty good time, car was running well
Was finishing off my 285s and had some stock wheels to drive home on
Anyhow I had a spin which didn't seem all that different to any other times I have had the car spin out on the track over the last few years until I got back on the track and realized something was not right
At 1st I thought I may have popped a tyre as the steering wheel was turned a quarter turn to the right in order to drive straight. I limped off the track to discover that my tyres were ok, however something was very wrong with the back left wheel as you will see in the pics
Pulled the wheel off and had a look, seems like I have bent some rod that has caused the wheel to toe in + also screw up the camber
Put the wheel back on and checked to see that it was not fouling on anything when it turned and that it was tight had no play in it and was not wobbling
Drove the car around the block and it seemed derivable so I went back home at 80kph on the hwy
Surprisingly the car still drives pretty straight, the steering wheel seems to correct the cars direction by moving itself a quarter turn right
Have posted pics of how the wheel is sitting inside the guard
Have also posted a pic of the rod that I think I have managed to bend on the left side along with a picture of the rod on the right side which looks a lot straighrer
Can anyone tell me the name of the rod I have bent and any ideas on what options I have to get this sorted? Might be calling up the wrecker in Victoria that had a few V35s for parts or are there aftermarket items available?
straight bent got toe in? -
Top diff and a fantastic price considering it includes the stub axel!!!
Sick of peg legging it off the line or having the inside wheel light up around a corner on your stock auto V35 do yourself a favor and buy this
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^^ this. the FSM states the knock sensor is only a last line of defence device, it is not used for tuning.. the ECU ignition maps are preset and don't change unless the knock sensor detects knock, then it switches to a 'knock map'.
The manual for my car says to use 96RON fuel, which I assume is what they have in Japan?.. I have been using 95RON since I have had my V35 without issue.. I ran a test of 98 for 3 consecutive tanks about 6 months ago, I couldn't detect any improvement in performance and it didn't make any changes to fuel economy, so I have gone back to 95.
This is exactly my point
I have run 98 for years and now that I have started to run 95 I can't detect ANY difference, everything feels and sounds the same and yet I am getting slightly better fuel economy which is one of the main reasons why I have raised this point
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Hi there
For years I've been filling up with 98 octane and for the most part when it came to my 308rwkw 180sx and my super sport bikes "GSXR1000, ZX6R" it seemed to be the logical thing to do
Until the last 3 tanks I have been doing the same with my V35, however I decided to give the 95 a go and see if I noticed any difference
As far as I can tell the car runs exactly the same which is no surprise I guess given that its running the factory ECU, interestingly enough I seem to be getting slightly better fuel economy as well on the 95 compared to the 98
So my thinking is that the factory ECU will do things such as advance/retard the timing on its own depending on how much knock it is detecting, however there is only so far that it can advance the timing. Perhaps the factory ECU is limited/unable to advance the timing past the point where any benefit would be noticed running the higher 98 octane ?
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I'll stick to my 280kph Nismo setup
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I seriously hope whoever did that to your car trips over whilst j walking and gets run over by a semi
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I am with NRMA and they play silly buggers with me every year my insurance is due, last year was no exception with them wanting allmost 2k!!!!
fortunately I was able to get them to beat a quote by AI insurance which brought my price down to a much better $800
Still given when I 1st got the car and insured it 4 and and a bit years ago for 30k they wanted $1500
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Not my cup of tea but hey its your car feel free to put a big Herro Kitty sticker on the side if you like
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I find that the chassis handles pretty well, for the most part I have run 245 on the front and 285 on the back with 19" rims using Federal tyres which whilst not the most expensive seem to hold the road just as well as the Kumo KU19's I had on before. Kicking the tail out for me is predictable although I noticed its a lot easier to do with 245 compliance rubber on the back combined with the transgo shift kit
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I would say doing an ECU reset would be enough to sort out any leaning issues. Its not like your slapping a super/turbo charger on the car thats going to boosting a significant amount of extra air through the engine requiring a significant amount of extra fuel to be added to the mixture
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Its a bit of an ask, especially when the the GTR runs a 3.8L engine which makes less power
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G35 window motors are the same, when your ordering do not forget that the drivers side in the US is our passenger side
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Get yourself a set of R compound semi slicks like the Toyo R888 GG they will take more time off your laps than a different set of coilovers
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Looked into the upgrade options but cant be stuffed to spend more money on the car especially with the prices V35s are selling for now
Pretty sure the Transgo kit was the last mod for the car
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Just rda slotted, I have cracked dba 4000 heat treated ones in the past
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I found that the last time I had discs machined they worked fine on the street but were rubbish on the track just didn't seem to work as well oh and one of them cracked...
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Started to hear a grinding noise from the front left when I hit the breaks on my way home for work today
I suspected that the pads must have been on the ware markers or at least the front left one was, not much of a surprise as they had done 20,000k plus 3 track days
Anyhow I babied the car home as soon as I noticed the noise
thought I may as well jack the car up and pull the wheel off to have a look at what the pads were like
Pads looked like they needed to be replaced still had some meat left on them, then as I stuck my head deeper into the wheel arch to check out the side of the disc facing the inside of the car I noticed that the surface of the disc looked chewed up
I find this all a bit strange as the car had no complaints on the track day and drove around just fine for the last 3 days
RB25T Box 3rd gear gone
in Drivetrain and transmission
Posted
Hi guys
Went drifting yesterday and managed to loose 3rd gear.
Now that sentience alone would normally be a no brainier as to what went wrong only there are a few things about my car that makes this strange.
My car is a S15 with a SR20 making 300 hp @ the wheels, I broke the 6 speed about 18 months ago and decided to just bite the bullet and pay the extra to upgrade to a RB25 box conversion and not have to worry about breaking a box again in the future.
When I broke the 6 speed I lost gears 3 and 4 + reverse would sometimes want to randomly go forward...
With the current gearbox all of the gears apart from 3rd seem fine. The strange thing is when you move the stick to what should be 3rd gear it seems like there is nothing there at all. There are no noises, crunches or grinding sounds. You can have the clutch fully engaged with the box in neutral and move the shiftier to 3rd and its like there is nothing there/the same feeling as if the clutch was disengaged?
Could this be a broken selector fork?
I'm a little stumped, I will admit that this happened during an entry into a corner. I had pulled the hand brake to kick the car out and was either in 3rd gear at the time or had just shifted from 2nd to 3rd and did a clutch kick to break traction.
My thoughts were that the RB25 box was good for 400+hp and that 300 should be a cakewalk for the box to deal with. Since doing the RB25 box upgrade I have only done 1 previous drift session and on the day that I lost 3rd "yesterday" had only been on the track for about an hour. I have been trying to smash my mortgage not more gearboxes which is why the car has seen very little use.
The only other things worth mentioning is that after the conversion there was noticeable vibration in 3rd and 4th gear when coasting/decelerating which the shop that did the conversion blamed on my diff as it was getting tired. I also have alloy slip in diff-subframe mounts/collars which would probably also cause more noise.
Anyone else had this happen with their box and what was the solution?