Scott Black

what broke in the box?

Are you putting it on backwards

Could always try electric water pump

I got Rex Kelway to make a manifold for my setup, easy to deal with, reply's normally within an hour or 2, yet always within a day. Awesome work too, cant fault mine, ill see if i can dig some pics up later

Your in good hands with Anthony

I'm running a 2530 neo in my r32 gts4, basically had to do a small amount of soldering for tps and idle valve and coil harness. Add in a wire for vct Can use pretty much any plug in ecu for r33 r32 gtst or gtr. Some need an injector pin swaped around and if using GTr or 32 gtst ecu need a way to control vct, so rpm window switch or if using an r32 gtst nistune then use the feature pack and it let's you control it like stock I use an adaptronic select on mine personally.

Well for comparison take a gt3582 compared with a stock turbo, yes its noticeable bigger yet at 14psi your talking a power increase of about 50%. Yes its not as bad at lower pressure. Yet also consider the timing on a lot of stock Nissans isn't that conservative so as well as fueling differences can have pinging, especially at mild loads cruising (stock ecus have heaps of timing there) nice loud exhaust radio up on the highway cant hear anything wrong. You might get away with it and things might be OK. Yet you might not and more often than not its not safe. And some dyno time is a lot cheaper than a rebuild.

Lol. I just put a car on my dyno this weekend for someone with that attitude who said car was running fine, 16:1 AFR lower loads. Still in the 15's comming onto boost, didn't go past that yet he had been thrasing it like that. Its all fine while the engines running until your halfway threw natio and it's suddenly not running.

Can't see well enough looking at the pic on my phone, yet if the turbo has enough play to hit the housing then its f**ked. Time for a rebuild

Rb25 neos don't use them either and I'm assuming you restricted the feeds when doing to build, also how did u eliminate vct

I have one on mine. Because it looked better than the stock one on my Freddy. As far as the difference goes. Powerwise at 430kw made 0 difference. U do notice a difference in throttle control yet it's not a good difference

Have you checked the 4wd fuse In the engine bay

Talk to Scott at western clutch services at st Marys, I got a single plate for my 32 that is a touch more bitey than stock yet is coping over 400awkw without issue

The coils can't interchange the way they bolt to the head is different

So considering the welsh plug fitting is just for breathing and not for a drain there should be nothing wrong with having the fitting point directly up after leaving the back of the head correct? Only putting it like that to make more room for a coolant bypass plug on the rear of the head too

Basically you can use a neo head in an r33 by reusing the r33 manifolds and blocking an oil drain on the side. Then you need to Change a pin on the vct solinoid and Repin the CAs. It will all work with the stock Nissan ecu except for the problems with the higher comp, so if you got a neo long motor provided your already using the neo cas( if its a neo head then it needs to use the neo CAs) then just swap all your bolt on assesories to the neo and done.

Walbro 460 and its a 2530

I don't think its going to be really worthwhile to do a leakdown test, especially if its a couple of hundred to do it. Multiple cylinder variations after a fair amount of det suggests bottom end issues, expecially with rb25 ring lands as sensitive as they are.If you get a local motor then you want comp/leakdown test. Pull oil cap off/ and see if it looks sludgy in it or any signs of rust on the can u can see. Things I'd change personally, timing belt, water pump,thermostat, cam seals. Front main seal. Rear main seal, rocker covers, and reseal the sump. Its a fair bit to do, yet gives you or your mechanic a good chance to really inspect everything and you have then sealed everything that can leak on it.

Fwiw a gtx3582r will make the power you want. Your not going to want anything more than just mild drop in cams for that level anyway. However would recommend replacing the valve springs anyway.

The factory cams work great especially when wanting to retain vct and use such a small turbo, if you want it to sound a little lumpy then that lumpyness means you don't retain the same idle response.

Compared to rebuilding a rb25 with aftermarket pistons properly and building a 25/30 there is prob around 1k differnece, Both engines would need Pistons Crank measured and linished/grind Tunnel checked and close and honed if needed, Block honed or bore and hone if required Block decked if required Head serviced properly (check valves. Cams. Tappets, new seals) New rings and bearings New gasket kit Check all clearances Crank machined for crank collar, New oil pump Oil breather modifcations and oil restrictors, And rb30 will require the purchase of an rb30 short motor And welding the vct feed on the neo head and tapping the gallery then running an external feed for vct oil feed, its a couple of hundred for the block, a couple of hundred for welding and tapping the gallery and a couple of hundred in lines and fittings for the feed Rebuilding a motor vs slapping something together cheap is a lot of money, yet you then dont end up with issues like huge comp destroying your motor from miss matched parts thrown together by a backyarder or Kmart mechanic. Also needed to be considered if doing somethinf other than a factory build is the cost of tuning the car to suit and ecu if required. If your on a budget the easyest safe option is a decent condition 2nd hand motor with warrenty.

Rb25/30 neo

Can confirm no power gains. And need to change clutch master. Also id advise getting the throttle body to suit rather than the adapter as if your keeping the battery in the stock position you need all the room you can get for the cold side pipe

Im at around 450rwkw on e85 and apart for injectors only upgrade to the fuel system is the fuel pump.