VFRegal

Hi Guys, I am chasing some parts for registration for a recently imported R32 GTR. Ideally located in Perth but can ship from over east. Happy to also "rent" the parts to help in getting registration and then have the mechanic swap them back. Parts I am chasing are: -Bumper reo bar -suspension with front radius arms -Front seats -stock intercooler setup -STock exhaust -sunvisors -Fan shroud Any help or leads would be great. Thanks.

@MaximuSmurf Congrats!!, a mate just sent me the facebook link. Have you go the boost controlled by the Link ? Did you need many turns of preload ? Did you end up running it with the 4 port or 3 port mac valve setup with the dual port. Cheers,

It's definitely different strokes for different folks. Power is not what it is all about when owning these classics. Decide what you want to get out of the car before buying engines. Remember going RB will be sump, fuel, diff ,gerbox mods. Plus you'll have to open up the tunnel to fit a larger gearbox. Then you will have engineering headaches if done legally. You could put some triples on the engine, better camshaft, exhaust and have a nice car. If you want to go a little further you can do some piston swaps to bring up compression and/or port the head. Again, just depends on what you want to do.

That's awesome ! Glad to hear you got some good results. I might have to follow your lead to get mine sorted. Did you end up using the 4 port mac valve ? I assume you had 24psi spring combo in the actuator ? Cheers,

Yes I follow your racing exploits on facebook. I have a 7163 in my s15 which is great but a little small for Barbagallo. I actually passed your s14 the other morning on the way to work. Was trailered up outside the deli/coffee shop in West Perth. I would be interested to find out why your 7670 let go.

One of the guys in Street Cars Class in WA. 7670, not nice !

For 7670 I think you would want sr with ve head. not so much det head in my opinion. Unless you are talking about drag racing. Although I am not 100% on all the different mister bishi motors.

Saw the pictures on facebook. Fantastic work. Will be amazing once finished.

I posted something similar in this thread and Geoff from Full race said that it wouldn't make any difference. Said it was more to do with the rear housing design than the internal gate. Nice numbers by the way.

Looks great. Not sure how current your posts are but I am running 60 pilots in my mikuni 40's. L20 like you too.

No VE Head ? Stock stroke ? What EFR are you going to use ? I should really get my s15 finished at some stage !

not sure if that worked or not ? link below

I've always wondered with Matchbot, what are acceptable levels for your exhaust pressure. And what delta's should you try to keep it within ?

Mate. Do as Geoff said. Boost leak test first. Try more preload. Check actuator plumbing. Try 4 port Mac valve. I also had good success with avcr as I could adjust duty over rpm range. The0.8 housing is a bit average for holding top end so don't get too hung up on it. They are good numbers for sr20. For me I had bad boost leak. Seems to be much better now but need to get back on dyno. Travelling now until mid August hopefully after then have more results. Good luck

This. Jon is very good on the emails. Have bought from FR with ease.

Very similar results to my sr20 with 7163. You definitely want to get the 4 port mac and dual port turbosmart actuator.

https://www.treadstoneperformance.com/view.phtml?f_cat=Turbine+Housings: Borg+Warner+EFR+Turbine+Housings

sr20, 260 procams, made 255rwkw but had big boost drop issues. Have made a lot of changes since to alleviate the boost drop. Hopefully have fixed it but haven't had time to get back on the dyno. 20 psi by 3700rpm, 14 psi 3500 rpm. My td05 was super doughy, not very lively. Could have been just an unlucky one. The 7163 just snaps back on boost after gear changes. Great on the track.

I had a td05h-18g on an sr20 and upgraded to 7163 TS on full race manifold. Massive difference. There's some ex IRL 7163's single scroll for sale on NRR. $850.

If you're a real world CPEng then I hope you are doing Grammar as part of your Continuing Professional Development. Because that explanation of dynos was terrible. I am sure the internet was impressed though. /Only a MIEAust for 17 years

yeah..nah. The brake (water/hydraulic/mechanical/retarder) provides a load against the engine via the driveline set by the operator. The engines ability to work against the load is translated via the torque arm onto the load cell which gives you the force measurement. Power runs are done by ramping the load while the car is held at wot, starting at low rpm obviously. But this aint the dyno thread /engineering

@MotHot Have you got this running ? Are you having any issues with controlling boost ? Cheers

Read the manual/guide. If you are just changing maf then there is no need to touch the maps. Plus as idle (if like the sr20) they are in closed loop, so you have to disable that first. Normally idle afr's are adjusted with the injector latency. As GTSBoy said, I think your issue is more to do with not choosing the half / double box.

@Full-Race Geoff Geoff, you've made a few comments about the high back pressures in the 7163 TS 0.8. Is there any future plans for a larger rear housing ? What are your thoughts on modifying the manifold to external gate and using some threaded rod to hold the IWG shut (instead of welding). Is there much of a penalty going from the twin to single scroll ? I noticed the twin scroll not listed on the webpage anymore ? Cheers !

Hi Geoff, 19 psi spring combination and about 4 or 5 turns preload. I'd like to try out my more preload but tuner was against it saying it wont make any difference. I am going to take the car elsewhere it's just waiting on a new gearbox at the moment. Interested on your thoughts on spring size for target boost pressure. Cheers