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About hutchwilco

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    Rank: RB20DET

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    Christchurch, NZ

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    2002 M35 RS
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  1. hutchwilco

    Timing chain

    yup I got my vq25dd main chain from Nissan Dealer in Christchurch. From them I also got a new crankshaft oil seal. About $270 including chain and oil seal. from repco I got the grey Three Bond 1215 250g tube (that’s more than enough to do a timing chain job).
  2. No such thing as a silly question. Photo colour may be misleading, the old chain is two pink for cams, one orange for crank. The new chain is the same but old chain has slight colour fade. As it happens, I’ve resolved the issue by slightly rotating the cams as required using the hexagonal ring. This is actually mentioned in the manual I just found for the 2003 G35 coupe. Just have to be very careful you’re not turning the cams to break a valve. I also realised each intake and exhaust cam sprocket marks align with subtle bumps formed on the inside of the rear chain case at TDC. This let me determine that the LHS cams were slightly off mark while the RHS were on mark. Made it easy to choose which one to turn to fit the chain and also have some confidence you’re within reasonable margin of safety as you move the cams a degree or two.
  3. Yep plan to, once it’s done. Taking photos along the way.
  4. Hi all, Currently in the middle of replacing the timing chain on my VQ25DD (2002 M35 Stagea). While I've got the engine at TDC, and the crankshaft mark and intake cam sprocket marks lined up with the old chain markers. I've found that the top stretch of old chain between intake cam sprockets was too spread apart, so that the new chain can't reach the last tooth to make the new chain marks align with the sprockets. Hopefully the photos make it clear what I mean. Comparing that section of the old and new chains you can see the difference in length of about half a chain link. The two photos of the cam sprockets show one mark lined up, and the other as best I can make it reach - one tooth too short for the sprocket mark. The best thing I can think to do is stow the tensioner on one or each of the cam chains and that might give me enough play to nudge the chain over that last tooth. Any better ideas or if this is ok to do, or even work as I'm hoping? hoping @scotty nm35 might be able to weigh in... Also looking for recommendation on the silicone/rtv product to use to reseal the case on when the time comes. cheers!
  5. Thanks all for the ideas. Hadn’t heard of partsouq. I’d written off pickapart as they never have Stageas but looking again I’ve found two V35 Skylines that should produce what I need. Electric fan is a good alternative too. To clarify the source of the problem, it’s not the bracket or the pulley (or the pump). The coupling assembly (highlighted in the pic) has the fan bolted onto it and does itself have a spindle in the back with a bearing where the viscous magic happens. It’s here there is play and rattle when running. Not being able to remove and inspect it’s hard to figure out what’s serviceable. I was hoping and would have preferred to service the unit by pulling a bearing and replacing or something along those lines. Nevermind. Judging by the parts diagram, the water pump is not behind this part but is further over and lower, set into the block with dual orings. Must be a different engine?
  6. My VQ25 has a bad rattle on the fan, and I’ve found it’s coming from the viscous hub/clutch bearing, and found there’s a pretty bad amount of play. The pulley that the belt drives appears fine and solid. I’m yet to find a local (Christchurch NZ) used part, and Amazon obviously has them for US120 but shipping is outrageous. OEM is ex Japan and $600+. seems there are no aftermarket parts for this except for the elgrand part from Dayco, but the part number doesn’t match (and it’s a VQ35) so unsure if that’s compatible. anyone know if you can pull/press whatever bearing the spindle is on and replace? I haven’t removed yet as I’m using the vehicle so hard for me to inspect myself. also need to check if the viscous clutch needs checking. Previously I’d had a persistent belt squeal that I couldn’t eliminate and a presumed it was due to excess dust get in there (no underguards currently), but now it occurs to me maybe the clutch going bad might cause a squeal. any thoughts, parts sources, dodgy fix advice welcome. cheers
  7. Had an intermittent ( 90% of the time) faulty front passenger electric window switch. Opened the switch up, and found blackened contacts - evidence of arcing and heating. Probably some previous owners kids holding it down or flicking the switch. Here's some photos of the repair: Pop up the cover plate with a flat blade- no screws. Use a flat blade to pop the white tab and remove the loom, then unscrew the switch from the cover plate. Pop the two white tabs either side to separate black from white plastic, the carefully pop up the top slider-cap to expose springs, ball bearings and copper contacts. Cleanup the contacts with a file, sandpaper or a scraper. I didn't bother cleaning the blackened plastic. Here I'm halfway done: Carefully place the ball bearings back, make sure they're centred, then lower the slider cover with springs down on to the ball bearings.
  8. Yep you have point that there is a bit info on here, but I only found the good stuff once I realised I should search by 'compression rod'.I am also keen to learn the pull press process as I usually prefer doing as much myself as I can, as a general rule. Think what I'll do is pull both arms off and take them into a shop with my bushes and get them swapped over. Tricky trying to get it done when the stags my only daily.
  9. So the new part I had lined up turned out to be just the bearing. With suspected bent stub axle I went with the secondhand axle and bearing assy. Inspecting the spare it looked like the outermost rim had been bashed by a crazy person, but didn't look like it affected fit or function. Removing the old and fitting replacement was actually a piece of cake. Didn't have to remove handbrake shoes or anything. Just need to push back the driveshaft to allow room for ratchet on each of the four bearing bolts round the back. Here is the hub with bearing/ stub axle removed and driveshaft poking through. You can see the four bolt holes where the bearing is held on. Had to thread the bolts back in a bit and tap the bearing out using the bolt heads: However, once I had it all fastened on and fitting the wheel back on it wouldn't seat onto the face of the rotor. The damn inner of the alloy wheel was meant to be a perfect fit to the old stub axle, so the beaten up area was slightly splayed out making the diameter too great to fit the wheel on. Solution: angle grinder. Three rounds of it. Anyway the awful bearing noise has gone, and I guess I've learned a lot about sourcing M35 parts in the process. Plan to get the old stub axle checked for runout and perhaps press a new bearing onto it one day if it checks out.
  10. No one has thoughts on this? Can't find any definitive answers on whether a V35 bush will fit, or what exactly is needed to pull out and push in. Grateful for any guidance...
  11. Gotta replace these for a warrant, see the bush at the far right of the photo: Nissan want $150 per side for the whole arm, I found a supplier locally of v35 skyline bushings (think they are Thailand NOK) part no. Bu129 for the same arm-$66 each. Anyone know if these are the same for m35s? Advice for pressing these in? Obviously I have seen the 'Febest' brand versions on eBay and Amazon for US$25, but a little wary of the quality at that price- anyone have dealings w the cheaper bushes lurking on the net? Cheers
  12. Heh, a fitting summary spoken by someone who must have been here for some of it or at least the aftermath... Probably pretty hard to understand without having been there done that.
  13. Yeah I agree it's not only SAU but must have something to do with it, since it is a SAU error page that I get. Something to do with how the work IT's proxy handles it, make SAU site reject it or something. Would there be logs for those rejections for today, from that IP?
  14. Yep, have called cockram ( don't know if it was Dan or not- good to know though) but $300+ for a bearing and 450 for a hub.... Not gonna go there. Since I suspected the hub itself, I was resigned to a secondhand assy from roscoes in ashburton. Turns out a mate had trade account with saeco bearings and got me a new hub and bearing assy for less than $200 which really can't be beat. (Although when I called saeco myself they were useless on the phone and literally just said 'nah' to an enquiry about stagea bearings). Anyway, hope to get the new bits in tomorrow, will try to take photos for a diy how to.
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