hutchwilco

Looking for any interest in this car for anyone to get running. Been a good vehicle for us for years, but recently developed a bit of chain noise. I set about replacing the chain myself and had problems following that repair that I never fully diagnosed. Elderly parents with brain tumours have meant I've ended up having to buy a new vehicle and move on from the repair, so would prefer selling to someone who wants a project to repair or replace the engine. near new rear shocks new front shocks in last 5 years steering rack has been refurbished in last few years riding on the higher springs from the AR-X four sunroof towbar may or may not be included depending on the price black interior reverse camera, double din stereo rego on hold Looking for anything over $500. This is the price I've been offered by a scrappy to crush it. Really don't want that. Call Sam O21995758 Located in Christchurch NZ

yup I got my vq25dd main chain from Nissan Dealer in Christchurch. From them I also got a new crankshaft oil seal. About $270 including chain and oil seal. from repco I got the grey Three Bond 1215 250g tube (that’s more than enough to do a timing chain job).

No such thing as a silly question. Photo colour may be misleading, the old chain is two pink for cams, one orange for crank. The new chain is the same but old chain has slight colour fade. As it happens, I’ve resolved the issue by slightly rotating the cams as required using the hexagonal ring. This is actually mentioned in the manual I just found for the 2003 G35 coupe. Just have to be very careful you’re not turning the cams to break a valve. I also realised each intake and exhaust cam sprocket marks align with subtle bumps formed on the inside of the rear chain case at TDC. This let me determine that the LHS cams were slightly off mark while the RHS were on mark. Made it easy to choose which one to turn to fit the chain and also have some confidence you’re within reasonable margin of safety as you move the cams a degree or two.

Yep plan to, once it’s done. Taking photos along the way.

Hi all, Currently in the middle of replacing the timing chain on my VQ25DD (2002 M35 Stagea). While I've got the engine at TDC, and the crankshaft mark and intake cam sprocket marks lined up with the old chain markers. I've found that the top stretch of old chain between intake cam sprockets was too spread apart, so that the new chain can't reach the last tooth to make the new chain marks align with the sprockets. Hopefully the photos make it clear what I mean. Comparing that section of the old and new chains you can see the difference in length of about half a chain link. The two photos of the cam sprockets show one mark lined up, and the other as best I can make it reach - one tooth too short for the sprocket mark. The best thing I can think to do is stow the tensioner on one or each of the cam chains and that might give me enough play to nudge the chain over that last tooth. Any better ideas or if this is ok to do, or even work as I'm hoping? hoping @scotty nm35 might be able to weigh in... Also looking for recommendation on the silicone/rtv product to use to reseal the case on when the time comes. cheers!

Thanks all for the ideas. Hadn’t heard of partsouq. I’d written off pickapart as they never have Stageas but looking again I’ve found two V35 Skylines that should produce what I need. Electric fan is a good alternative too. To clarify the source of the problem, it’s not the bracket or the pulley (or the pump). The coupling assembly (highlighted in the pic) has the fan bolted onto it and does itself have a spindle in the back with a bearing where the viscous magic happens. It’s here there is play and rattle when running. Not being able to remove and inspect it’s hard to figure out what’s serviceable. I was hoping and would have preferred to service the unit by pulling a bearing and replacing or something along those lines. Nevermind. Judging by the parts diagram, the water pump is not behind this part but is further over and lower, set into the block with dual orings. Must be a different engine?

My VQ25 has a bad rattle on the fan, and I’ve found it’s coming from the viscous hub/clutch bearing, and found there’s a pretty bad amount of play. The pulley that the belt drives appears fine and solid. I’m yet to find a local (Christchurch NZ) used part, and Amazon obviously has them for US120 but shipping is outrageous. OEM is ex Japan and $600+. seems there are no aftermarket parts for this except for the elgrand part from Dayco, but the part number doesn’t match (and it’s a VQ35) so unsure if that’s compatible. anyone know if you can pull/press whatever bearing the spindle is on and replace? I haven’t removed yet as I’m using the vehicle so hard for me to inspect myself. also need to check if the viscous clutch needs checking. Previously I’d had a persistent belt squeal that I couldn’t eliminate and a presumed it was due to excess dust get in there (no underguards currently), but now it occurs to me maybe the clutch going bad might cause a squeal. any thoughts, parts sources, dodgy fix advice welcome. cheers

Had an intermittent ( 90% of the time) faulty front passenger electric window switch. Opened the switch up, and found blackened contacts - evidence of arcing and heating. Probably some previous owners kids holding it down or flicking the switch. Here's some photos of the repair: Pop up the cover plate with a flat blade- no screws. Use a flat blade to pop the white tab and remove the loom, then unscrew the switch from the cover plate. Pop the two white tabs either side to separate black from white plastic, the carefully pop up the top slider-cap to expose springs, ball bearings and copper contacts. Cleanup the contacts with a file, sandpaper or a scraper. I didn't bother cleaning the blackened plastic. Here I'm halfway done: Carefully place the ball bearings back, make sure they're centred, then lower the slider cover with springs down on to the ball bearings.

Yep you have point that there is a bit info on here, but I only found the good stuff once I realised I should search by 'compression rod'.I am also keen to learn the pull press process as I usually prefer doing as much myself as I can, as a general rule. Think what I'll do is pull both arms off and take them into a shop with my bushes and get them swapped over. Tricky trying to get it done when the stags my only daily.

So the new part I had lined up turned out to be just the bearing. With suspected bent stub axle I went with the secondhand axle and bearing assy. Inspecting the spare it looked like the outermost rim had been bashed by a crazy person, but didn't look like it affected fit or function. Removing the old and fitting replacement was actually a piece of cake. Didn't have to remove handbrake shoes or anything. Just need to push back the driveshaft to allow room for ratchet on each of the four bearing bolts round the back. Here is the hub with bearing/ stub axle removed and driveshaft poking through. You can see the four bolt holes where the bearing is held on. Had to thread the bolts back in a bit and tap the bearing out using the bolt heads: However, once I had it all fastened on and fitting the wheel back on it wouldn't seat onto the face of the rotor. The damn inner of the alloy wheel was meant to be a perfect fit to the old stub axle, so the beaten up area was slightly splayed out making the diameter too great to fit the wheel on. Solution: angle grinder. Three rounds of it. Anyway the awful bearing noise has gone, and I guess I've learned a lot about sourcing M35 parts in the process. Plan to get the old stub axle checked for runout and perhaps press a new bearing onto it one day if it checks out.

No one has thoughts on this? Can't find any definitive answers on whether a V35 bush will fit, or what exactly is needed to pull out and push in. Grateful for any guidance...

Gotta replace these for a warrant, see the bush at the far right of the photo: Nissan want $150 per side for the whole arm, I found a supplier locally of v35 skyline bushings (think they are Thailand NOK) part no. Bu129 for the same arm-$66 each. Anyone know if these are the same for m35s? Advice for pressing these in? Obviously I have seen the 'Febest' brand versions on eBay and Amazon for US$25, but a little wary of the quality at that price- anyone have dealings w the cheaper bushes lurking on the net? Cheers

Heh, a fitting summary spoken by someone who must have been here for some of it or at least the aftermath... Probably pretty hard to understand without having been there done that.

Yeah I agree it's not only SAU but must have something to do with it, since it is a SAU error page that I get. Something to do with how the work IT's proxy handles it, make SAU site reject it or something. Would there be logs for those rejections for today, from that IP?

Yep, have called cockram ( don't know if it was Dan or not- good to know though) but $300+ for a bearing and 450 for a hub.... Not gonna go there. Since I suspected the hub itself, I was resigned to a secondhand assy from roscoes in ashburton. Turns out a mate had trade account with saeco bearings and got me a new hub and bearing assy for less than $200 which really can't be beat. (Although when I called saeco myself they were useless on the phone and literally just said 'nah' to an enquiry about stagea bearings). Anyway, hope to get the new bits in tomorrow, will try to take photos for a diy how to.

Ok, managed to answer a few of my questions looking at youtube for USA infiniti and Nissan Maxima bearing replacements. I'd need a puller and a press to separate the old hub and bearing and a press in the hub to the new bearing. However, suspect my hub may be bent as there is runout even after rotor has been turned down. That means I may as well buy a second hand hub/ bearing assy ($130) from local dismantler. That way I don't need puller and press, I should be able to just bolt up the assy. My new parts options are that it seems locally, (NZ) the front bearings come with hub fitted but rear bearings come naked. There are some rear hub- bearing assys online ( Amazon has them for $65us! Dodgy?). Wondering if this assy is known to be same as any other RWD nissans in nz, xtrail, fuga, skyline? Anyone know? That way I could look around pickapart for some options...

ok, that's cool. Driving to work today, loading up the left side (right turn) definitely makes the sound worse, so I'm sure it's a bearing now. Couple of questions about replacing the bearing myself then that I hope someone can answer: 1. I've seen the DIY wheel bearing replacement post on SAU, for front wheel. How much of this is the same? 2. I see the Genuine nissan PN and searched on ebay - some return just the bearing, some have the hub too. (assume 7 (below) is the bearing?) eg http://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-OEM-43210AL505-Rear-Wheel-Bearing-Wheel-Bearing-43210-AL505-/121293432203 going by the picture below, which parts need special tools to remove? Bear in mind this is my daily driver, so I need to prepare EVERYTHING for the job on the weekend. 3. Do I need a puller, and if so for which parts? What special tools do I need to insert 7 into 6 etc? I'm fairly capable just don't want any surprises... 4. Do I need to beware of 4WD bearings being different to RWD? (Mine is RWD) thanks

While at work, I get the SAU error page " sorry you don't have permission for that". I do have some weird firewall restrictions here, but this is an error page served by SAU. I've tried to email the admin at the address listed on the error page (mail@skylines....) but got no reply. Really keen to fix this as its a major PITA. My work IP for troubleshooting is 131.203.63.xxx The weird thing is the site works from my iOS SAU app and iOS browser while on a slightly different internal company network, but with the same external ip. Makes me think it's some useragent block by sau? Cheers

My two cents: Just cleared my codes 1130, 1123(not listed, anyone?) and it seems totally fixed my problem: my m35 was 'hard' missing under load ( hill or hard acceleration ) ie not a soft fuel miss. Was starting to think about new coil packs, but thought I'd just try to check and clear the codes first. Glad I did. Realised that since the previous owner removed the rear muffler, the car was probably is some compensation/ limp mode. I've since put a muffler back on, so have probably run in limp mode since I owned it. Explains the slightly disappointing mileage I was getting....

Just been round and round figuring out an issue with my 2002 m35 thought I'd share the journey: Since I owned it the car always had a slight pulse when braking, so I knew I had to get the rotors turned down at some point. Eventually I started hearing some brake noise so I took it in to get the rotors skimmed and new pads put in (front and rear). Apparently only a small amount needed to be turned down on the rear rotors. However the sound was still there, from the rear left. A scraping/creaking sound in time with the wheel revolution and only really noticeable below about 50kmhr when coasting or decel to a stop. Eek eek eek eek etc Applying the brakes made no difference. Worried it was a catastrophic bearing waiting to go I took it to a mechanic near my work, who reckoned it didn't sound like a bearing, removed the entire rotor, clamped off the lines, and drove it brakeless in the rear, without eliminating the noise (that cost me $180, thanks for nothing). By now, a few weeks in, the noise was getting louder. This was doin my head in, others were suggesting a delaminated tyre, or flat spot on the mag... Took it back to the original brake shop, and they reckon it's a bent flange or munted bearing, most likely from a lateral impact, kerb or pothole. They ran it up on a hoist with the wheel removed and you can see a 1mm wobble of the rotor in the caliper as it turns. They'd just had a similar problem with a vehicle that had an insurance claim from hitting a kerb sideways. Think the easiest and cheapest option is to replace the hole assy with another (so, parts in Christchurch anyone?) and hope that's it. Genuine bearings and flange will apparently cost me a packet and take a while to change out. Use to have a goto wrecker in ChCh for m35s, hurst dismantlers, but just found they sold up and moved on. No idea where the bodies went. Any chch people know of m35 dismantlers?

Cool thanks Erop, for the info- makes sense that the shocks are the same, for simplicity and commonality across models. I see what you're saying about the lack of downward travel for ARX but I didn't do this to go offroad( still only rear wheel drive after all) I did it because A) I hated having the low springs( how I bought it) in my city, which has Earthquake damage to every street. B) I got the ARX springs for free ( I don't have any money to spend on customising my car) C) I occasionally do drive into fields/paddocks/ along unsealed roads (NZ has a lot of these if you leave the main highways) and so extra clearance is a bonus. Cheers

Another after shot:

For the record, I have gone ahead and put in the ARX springs. Been a couple of months and no dramas. ( although recently developed a noise- that's another post and likely not related) Had the front and rear realigned and the mechanic seemed to think it was sitting fine on the stock shocks with plenty of room either way. Actually far better than than the lowered scenario where the shocks were so close to the bump stops. The ride is far better given the condition of the roads here, and nice to be able to take on any gravel road or paddock without collecting the local landscape. A little more wobble in the handling at speed but nowhere near as bad as I feared. I know my shocks are getting near to replacement, so new shocks will improve things. See photos: Stock, lowered Cobras and Arx for comparison Before height: After height:

Ok, then what are the implications? The shock is 40mm shorter than that normally used with this spring. I assume that when unweighted, the control arm will limit downward travel, rather than the shock fully extending? Also, would my camber be too far inwards, or workable? Trying to figure out if this is impossible/dangerous or not.

Hmm, if true that ruins my plans, I've heard that they're the same other than the springs... Can anyone confirm or point me to something conclusive?