#skyginer

Very nice r32 terry, looking on carsales at 32 gtrs and I noticed a v spec 2 n1 for sale at 150k. Yes, one hundred and fifty thousand dollars...... All original 30k kms

I've followed your build threads, gtst and now gtr, and ultimatey which 32 do you find quicker? I thought you were nearing a 65 in the t67 rb25 rwd monster

Awesome build, are you going to run the standard nissan front and rear ends (geometry wise)?

I done it to my gtst, cut straight across the front and through the frame aswell as the skin. It wouldve been nice to just cut the structure underneath and bend the front around to cover the hole underneath but no bog/painting at my new house says the mrs. No ill effects, doesnt look like peeling at speed or anything Do it on your car, mask across the front until your happy, then cover up anything that could be damaged by sparks

??? How? Broke into house stole keys and dissapeared? Flatbed truck?

Sorry to hear but it couldve been much worse. Is your car an obvious theif magnet? Like big wheels bodykit stereo etc

Just going by your manifold pressure graph anyways

Maybe the turbo is just too big for the 25, isnt a td06 25g larger then the t67? With a td07 core and wheels?

Goodride rs sport 225 17, 2 months of use so far Dry grip is excellent and very progressive on the limit Wet grip is only alright, same as most budget radials But for 125 ea fitted theyre brilliant A little noisy but very compliant on crap roads A very good china tyre, apparently a semi

My experience I have an r32gtst which had the stock brakes, a couple of long hills runs and long high speed downhill stops shown me they were average aswell. So I went 324mm front rotors and adaptor aswell as hfms 337mm rear rotor upgrade and some castrol super dot fluid. When I went to bed the brakes in I was able to get 10or so 120km -15km stops with no stress at all. Once bedded I have experienced zero fade on long hills runs and testing their limits in a local industrial estate (used 1/4 tank of fuel) still no issues All on semi slicks aswell But with just the 324 fronts it was a little too front biased My 2c

Launch control is cooler then a cucumber. Just need t51r noise to go with it =)

Use white spirits, on a rag and elbow grease We use it all the time when vandals paint our (earthworks) machines. Works very well on glass Do not let it touch any paint, it works like a thinner and strips paint unless its powdercoated Or aeroguard, works aswell on paint on glass

Good project, my misses 33 has the rust spot on the middle of the door too, like wtf?? Nice to see yours is recieving some loving

Make me an offer on these items, I need to get rid of them for more projects=) 0423789155 al

You can try a new cap, but there's a restrictor put in your filler neck that the cap screws into with the flap in it, this part eventually leaks but you can take it out and reseal it with a petrol friendly sealant. To get it, open fuel flap remove fuel cap get some pliers and a big flat blade and pry/wriggle it free from the neck silicon behind the lip you pry from and reinstall Youll notice this leak most when you have a full tank of fuel and you load the car turning hard left. I had fuel running down my rear quarter panel I hope this helps

My gtst seemed to have the same problem, would cruise around with shitty steering feel and above 90km an hour id have a fair bit of wheel movement before actually changing direction, even with excessively stiff suspension and good tyres I eventually changed my ps rack to one off a 33, wired the ps solonoid to 12v and now she drives sweet. I only changed to a 33 rack because one popped up on gumtree for peanuts, and 350 for refurb or 250 from a wrecker seemed quite steep. I hope thats some help.

I use nulon stuff, bought 1l at supercheap and that was plenty for the whole system, no hicas and replaced my rack with a 33 rack. Also I used one that has a leak inhibitor in it, was around 10dollars

Thanks for answering that romain, I have read the rb20 dyno thread. Also ive followed the this hypergear thread for a few years. At the moment my 32 has only boltons and stock turbo at 1bar and the amount of useable torque this has makes it a very brisk car, but out on the open road 80-100km plus it feels (relatively) slow. I really want more up top without losing too much down low

I'm looking onto different turbo options for my rb20, I would like to get 230-240rwkw and wondered if you are able to have a t3 8cm rear housing onto one of your td05 18.5's or would and rb20 or 25 hiflow be better suited? On pump fuel with reasonable response on an rb20 also do your turbochargers response change much between an rb20 and sr20?

Wow, man asks legit question sau roaches come out of the sewers to have a crack I've bought 2 china spec turbos and they are ok for the money. yes mine are more laggy and make less power then an equivalent name brand turbo but I didnt expect much for the price I paid another legitimate option for that size and airflow would be a reconditioned holset turbo, not china cheap but around 500delivered from usa. There are quite a few success stories about them on ka24s rb20s 25s honda motors etc but not on sau

With rear arms the brand probably has no bearing on how 'reliable' the arm will be. The spherical bearing or rose joint can be replaced locally from a cbc bearings or alike cheap and easily. I had a set of rear arms in the rear of my 32 for 2 years, bearings started to get loose and replacement was just 14dollars each. I use my adjustable rear camber arms to dial out camber for the street, I couldnt get less then -1.2deg camber with stock arms and adjustment.

Nice car man, Did u notice any difference using the gk tech solid shifter bush?

I do approve. You put stock suspension back in and go for a 10 man, 3 or 4 half passes then 1 full track. So much awesome going on here. Just not the same attention as all the other 32 33 34 builds