letemlaf

If you were giving it to me, I'd take the 360. Funny thing is that I can live without owning a 360, I can't live without owning a GTR

superGT cars ran the same chinese curcuit as v8 supercars, lapping i think 2 sec faster per lap

I've rang around today a few gearbox shops and no one seems overly familiar with the rb25det 5sp gearbox. Anyone around (preferably around welshpool area) who knows what their doing? I thought i had a fluid leak from the master or slave cylinder or even air in the line because last night while driving home i couldnt get it into gear, only if i really pressed my foot almost through the firewall i could get into gear. Done all the checks/bleeds etc with no luck. By this morning the car would not go into gear at all to even drive to a clutch shop. Called out a clutch specialist and he said its seems like the bearing has gone and the pedal box weld has broken.

My gf brought home her 2003 accent (man) complaining of a vibrating and a little power loss. The first thing i noticed was a chuffing noise coming from the exhaust. I took out each of the 4 spark plugs and they were covered in soot so i cleaned them up again, then put a spark plug in each of the lead and held it against some steel to make sure each lead was generating a spark. They all were but they were a weaker yellow rather than blue. So i took the car from a drive and found the problem was still there. Whats actually happening is that around 1500rpm in neutral the car vibrates fairly violently so it was a little difficult reversing out of the driveway and there was a good smell of petrol in the air. While driving the car seems to only have a minor power loss and in the higher rpm it is much less noticable. I then decided to remove a lead from each cylinder then drive a little to see which cylinder was playing up. cyl 1 = slightly less power (than with all 4 connected) cyl 2 = significantly less power cyl 3 = almost no difference in power cyl 4 = completely undrivable Im guessing that the valve in cyl 3 or possibly cyl 1 is not sealing properly causing these symptoms. any other suggestions from these symptons? cheers!

isnt hp/kw a mathematical formula worked out from torque?

I was look at a friends dyno readout, which says 200rwkw and 604nm. I was wondering if the torque figure sounds a little high? car = r33 gtst S1 manual turbo back zorst fmic cai walbro fuel pump standard turbo (13psi), injectors, ecu

Thanks guys Lucky i didnt ask

I thought i would give this a go for a bit of fun when i go to my gf's house with a whole pack of v8's that live over the road. Im a little unsure on what to do... Steps 1, 2 and 3 i can do (is it saying i should hear lumpy idle now?) Where it says to turn the car off and dial back the crank angle sensor, is that listed under 'cranking'? I think the rest is pretty straight forward after that. Cheers 1. Turn car ON 2. SETTING, IGN/INJ 3. Press DOWN 1 time If you observe lumpy idle then note the number ie: -1 If you don't observe lumpy idle, press DOWN again. Keep repeating until you get lumpy idle, don't go past -3 or -4 it's too much. Now with that number in mind do the following 1. Turn car OFF 2. Dial back the Crank Angle Sensor whatever number you had in IGN/INJ Adjust, so if you had -2 dial it back 2 deg 3. Turn car to ACC 4. Edit the IGN map and shift every cell UP whatever number you used in #2. So if it was -2 then add 2deg timing to every IGN cell on the map 3. Turn car ON 4. Observe lumpy idle

I get a maximum of about 8 and the odd knock up to about 12. If im driving normally it sits about 2 I know its nothing to worry about but i am curious to what the knock is being caused by

i hand screw them in 90% of the way and only tighten the last bit by hand and i only tighten them enough to hold and check them the next day so its very unlikely i've overtightened them or crossthreaded them. I do them in opposites from each other but i crack them on the floor then jack right up to unscrew and losen, that could do this? The nuts are 12x1.25 cheers

im not sure what u mean, when i was taking the nuts off/on?

Hi guys I bought a set of advan sa3r second hand 17" My old nuts were too fat to fit inside the new wheels so i bought a heap of new ones. The ones i bought seem to fit perfectly, but i have just taken the wheels off to spray them black and the front right wheel had 2 nuts that were so tight, even after using wd40 and a bit of oil to lube them up we could bearly remove them by jacking it back and forth until it finally came off very reluctantly. It wasn't like they were tight for a small part of the thread but from start until finish. 2 of the studs are partly stripped of their threads and need replacing as well as the 2 nuts. I'm wondering how this could have happened so i can avoid it in future. im not a newbie to wheels and know not to overtighten or cross threads and what not else. Btw, what are the stud sizes because i need to buy some more (and hopefully from a wrecker).

thats great, thanks for the tip

yeah i will do. Its a 3 twin spoke wheel with quiet a dish so i thought i may have some trouble spraying where the spokes go right into the dish coz its quiet narrow, any tips for those area's? Cheers