LenBo

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About LenBo

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    Rank: RB20E

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  • Car(s)
    M35 Stagea ARX four
  • Real Name
    Lenny McInnes

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  1. Thanks for consideration. Sold!
  2. Ok Guys, My wife has gone and bought another car, so this one really must sell quick. So I'll drop the price to $5500! This has got to be the cheapest M35 around now!
  3. Price drop $6990. I'm keen to sell. if you are interested, pm me an offer!
  4. Price drop $7500.
  5. 2002 M35 Stagea ARX Four Nissan Stagea M35 ARX four. Has all of the nice features of an M35 such as full leather interior, VQ25 turbo engine, 4wd, HICAS, since it's an ARX four also factory MOMO steering wheel and 18 inch alloys. Has plenty of tasteful mods including: 3" dump and quiet straight through stainless exhaust, HKS type S intercooler, custom 3" stainless intake pipe, Garrett GT3071R turbo, cooling system mod and thermo fan conversion, LPG gas injection system, heavy duty tow bar. Awesome fast wagon and cheap to run on LPG. Just needs a computer and tune to maximize potential! 215000 k's Brisbane south side, Contact Lenny 0431 301 320 Negotiable at $8500
  6. Great thread guys, I'm In Brisbane and have an M35 ARX four with SVI Gas. The only guy I've found who's willing to have a go at tuning both petrol and Gas is strongly recommending a UniChip. Has anyone tried one? Any thoughts?? I mentioned that lots of M35 owners use adaptronic as a piggyback that local tuners can use. He still thought UniChip would do a better job. After reading about the complexity of the task, am I setting myself up for fail by going down the road of a unichip? Any thoughts appreciated.
  7. Guys, FYI I have 2002 ARX with standard suspension and I had this very same issue. It was definitely a fatigue crack. On my car the fatigue crack grew quite a long way towards the front and back of the car before the shock top finally ripped out on a pot hole just like Matthew. however for at least a year beforehand I could hear a rattling / tinkling sound coming from the back but could not for the life of me find it - until it ripped out of course! about 6 months later the other side started tinkling, so I knew exactly what it was this time around. As Matthew showed, there is absolutely no access from the top. structure of the car completely excludes access. to fix, I snuck two bits of 5mm plate above the mount, with captive studs tacked to the plates, one each side. couldn't do it in one piece of plate since it won't go up the hole. in my case the fatigue crack had propagated towards the front and back of the car quite a distance and intersected the hole in the middle, which is stiffened by an upward fold. crack had progressed right through the fold. so gouged out the crack and welded it closed, added the plate above then added a strip of something like 4x10mm flat bar rolled into a cylinder and welded that to the inside of the hole to reinforce the folded edge. it was fiddly, but not terribly difficult, certainly not nearly as challenging as fabbing the 3" the intake pipe no problems since. I'm about to order BC's myself since the standard suspension is ready for the bin. my car has done about 180kms, the top mounts ripped out at about 150 and 160k's respectively. I don't suspect lack of travel positive or negative travel on the BC's on Matthew's, since it happened on mine with standard suspension. you can even see the fatigue crack heading forwards on the photo posted earlier in the thread. What may be a more interesting coincidence is that no one else seems to have had this issue accept Matthew and I, and we both drive early ARX's. Is there a chance that this top mount is different on the ARX since it is a bit higher than everyone else? How did the eng shop fix your top mounts Matthew? Lenny.
  8. I just bought this golpher 686mm wide radiator from e-bay. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NISSAN-SKYLINE-V35-AT-MT-POLISHED-ALLOY-RADIATOR-CORE-400x686mm-/271079858068?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1d9e5f94 it fit perfectly, thicker core than standard. all good!
  9. Please! will PM you. As for radiators. I'm pretty keen to upgrade. Even before having the top tank crack, the cooling system just didn't seem to keep up. Every time I'd drive up the toowoomba range the temp would climb. very hot days with AC on also seemed to be a challenge. That said, if the cooling system is the limiting factor as opposed to the radiator, then maybe a standard rad will do the job with the cooling mod. thoughts please? A few mods is fine, I've already added 600mm HKS type S intercooler (from an evo that I made to fit) so have a non standard slim AC fan, 3" suction pipe (inspired by your suction pipe mod thread, boy that was a challenge) and just finished the 3" dump and exhaust, which came out really nice and quite in the end.
  10. Can you add another to the list of cooling mods Scotty? top tank of my radiator has just cracked and squirted all of the coolant out. I've fibreglassed a a temporary patch on the crack and will order a new radiator ASAP. After patching, I haven't yet got the car running without overheating in about 2km's. After reading this thread I'll put some effort into bleeding as advised. This all makes the coolant mod sound essential (anything to make this overheating situation better). I figure I might as well take this opportunity to improve the radiator. Any recommendations for superior radiator? I live in Qld - so 38 degs is common an have some mods (hopefully few more in the future).