tastyratz

I also require this information for some math I need to perform. Instead of starting a new thread I am going to give this a big fat back from the dead BUUUUUUMP

took me damn long enough to get these puppies back together note that I took some bad advice you should all avoid from some thread I think I read on here. After putting them together I tried baking the bezels alone at 350deg F to let the silicone steam out and not fill the headlights with condensation. well after about 10 minutes of that on one of them all the chrome plating began to crack and flake. Not a big deal since im painting it black right? WRONG... I had some serious earthquake cracks all around the surface that were extremely visible through the paint, and caused painted sections to come off since the chrome came off. It took many hours of sanding, filler primer, and more sanding to get them to look right blinker leds have been installed and are DAMN bright on this car. Looks GREAT if anyone cares ive also created custom shields to make it lhd instead of rhd (again a usa thing) and I converted them from h3c to h3... all in all its been great and they look 100x better. the shields from a kouki s14 actually did NOT work on this projector so I had to scrap them.

You can do it to any lights really, go for it. I have had a damper on the project lately because i followed some advice from people I will clear up now. my given advice: after paint and glue and such put it in the oven @ 300deg or so for 30 min to get the stuff that will evaporate out and not fog the lights up. fact: 12 minutes in the stove @ 310 degrees causes all the chrome to crack and flake off. Since this is what half the paint bonds to, that means a horrible deep cracked looking surface and a prettymuch RUINED piece. I am trying filler primer then sanding it to see if it doesnt look too bad (hopefully) Other whise I doubt I would be able to get my hands on that one chrome piece in the usa for a passenger r32 light.... and I doubt I wanna pay 43094583095834904308945$ for one shipped overseas. Wish me luck repairing!

actually im almost done with my lights. probabbly get them finished up this weekend if its gonna snow like they say it will.... they came out flawless and I love it. Ive got a bunch of pics from along the way, I just dont have any up The plastic WILL get soft and bend a little cooking these so you might have to push on other spots for a second but it shouldnt do any real damage really

I wish I could edit the name of this thread because I have some interesting Concepts and ideas on modifying the lights to do some more things. Im going to do an experiment on the projectors that will hopefully yield some hid level colorful cutoff cheap and easy.

damn man I didnt even see your thread, I wouldnt have done that whole writeup if I did, does looks like were aiming for very similar things. I went premade led for my drl spot (which will be what I will use for my blinkers in front) Id love to see what your row of leds will look like when installed, I worry that may not be bright enough or bright enough in a large enough area when the headlights are on and you may need to go back and put more. I guess atleast this is another viewpoint on it and shows what it would look like with gold or black :-P I didnt use a different projector, just used stock. it looks to me like nissan really parts binned these using the same projector on everything. This projector looks extremely similar to the silvia projector, as well as the kouki s14 projector.... So much so in fact I found a local who is selling me his kouki left hand drive cutoff shields to install on my lights and not blind oncoming traffic here. I plan on modifying it a bit though and moving it closer to the bulb to give some nice thick color. Heres a link to the guys thread showing what you can get from a reg nissan halogen projector just by moving the shields http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/viewtopic....b62d24ce1388548 I have some sylvania 100 watt h3s I will be using instead of HID's in this setup Both looking for something different, and taking different paths to get there but in the end we do have alot of similarities. I guess people can use both our writeups to conclude what they want to do with their own cars.

ok I'm from the usa and I drive a us 240sx that I am in the middle of putting an r32 gts nose on. I had all my parts arrive but I wanted to do as much different custom things as possible: Materials: small skinny flathead screwdriver medium sized flathead small head philips screwdriver. cup to hold all the screws oven oven mitts aluminum foil Krylon bbq and stove black satin paint (or other HIGH HEAT ONLY paint) balls of steel First: prep the lights. There should be a few metal clips holding the front on. Pry those off with a screw driver FROM THE SIDE WHERE THE PLASTIC IS. I managed to chip my glass on one prying from the center. Also remove the bulbs and any extra rubber pieces, vent hoses, etc that may be damaged. Turn your oven to about 400 degrees and let it preheat. Depending on the oven and how close the middle tray will be to the heat source (use your discretion) You may want to shut the oven off before inserting the lights. I did the fog lights and the headlights in my case. Put a few sheets of aluminum foil down over a tray as centered as possible. (note if your doing fog lights the glue is different and takes about 10-11 min to soften, nothing special after that really) Place the lights 1 at a time in the center of the oven and shut the door. The glue in the headlights requires about 6 minutes to become free, maybe 7. Pry them apart slowly from the corners with a screw driver. It will be a good amount of pressure to seperate but it wont be something to strongarm. You have only a few min before it cools off and you have to put it back in the oven. After seperation you will see the chrome bezel is held on by only 2 screws and 2 ball joints. Un screw the 2 screws and pop it out of the ball joints. Make sure to tape off the inside of the drl reflector because you need that to remain chrome, dont touch the reflectors beyond the bezel... those will be needed obviously for light but the bezel is just that, a bezel. This shouldnt affect light output as far as I can gather. Now you have it apart and masked the way you want, hit the pieces with a piece of scotch bright to scuff the surface real quick, then make sure to wipe it completely clean of dust with a towel and solvent. Afterwards you paint it nice and even hitting it from all different angles and inspecting it as you go, its real easy to miss or light spray a spot on these. I used the krylon bbq paint here and it dried in a fairly cold environment in under 10 min. Re-assembly is very simple and work backwards. Make sure the lights appear sealed and if they dont then try going over them with a bead of silicone afterwards so no water gets in. heres a few pics: After I dont have any pics of it fully re-assembled because its not yet, this is the tip of my project. I plan on taking that small drl reflector in the picture and turning it into my front blinker. I picked up on ebay last night an amber power tower 3156 superflux 20 led bulb that I am going to stuff into there and modify the housing to make it fit having a hella bright blinker. also picked up a 5 led wedge bulb to go in the corners as my side blinker. On top of that I am going to either swap the shields with a DOT spec shield in the projector or modify these to be LHD not RHD. While this is apart you will notice the shield placement can be adjusted. If you slide them closer to the bulb you may get an HID blue cutoff line effect without having HID. Any questions? feel free to post them

Hey, Ive got the r32 front halfway installed on my nissan 240sx but I was curious... can someone take a picture for me on what the oem headlight bracket looks like, as well as maybe the radiator support, where things attach in that area, etc? I want to make as clean and perfect of an install as I possibly can. Im in the usa and its a bit hard for me to get ahold of that type of shot ;-)

Thanks for the picture post. I think it would be great if we could get people to post an attached picture of their car (which best shows an accurate representation of the color its painted) while mentioning what paint code their car is. This would be a great help to the community when repainting and deciding on a color :-)

back from the dead because your pics dont work! any chance you could get em back online for me?

would gts fog lights fit in the ducts from a gtr bumper?

another question came up as well, sorry to be bothering you guys with all this but its really helpful. factory fog lights.... are they any different for gts/gtr bumpers? I may be able to come across a set somewhere and I wanted to see if I should just pounce on them or if it matters if they are gts/gtr? thanks

actually the r32 front is about 350$ USD cheaper for me to do than a silvia front, and going strawberry face is several thousand usd more! the r32 front is seen alot less, putting the s15 front on your s13 over here is common practice, the r32 front is more affordable for me, imho sexy, and something a little more challenging/different. Alot of the people who have done the front end have done a piss poor job on it, but my father owns a bodyshop and ive got aaaaallllll winter to get it perfect :-). The skyline front is ALMOST a bolt on affair, only thing with it is that it is wider than the stock s13 front when bolted on in gts-t AND gtr form so you have to try to tuck things in a bit so it doesnt look out of place. Other than that redrill the fender holes and make a headlight mounting bracket. thats 90% of getting it on, the rest is really finess to make it mint. Over in the us we have different slang. Let me know if what it sounds like im seeing is correct indicators=corner lamps bonnet = hood bar= front bumper lower lip/add on ground fx? this is the one I have the most trouble with. as far as the hood/fenders. how much weight does it save going with a gtr hood? is it worth going with a carbon fiber hood or should I save the money and just use a gtr one? the grill in the front I believe I read attaches to the gtr headlights so I know thats different, does anyone have any pictures of where it meets? Maybe I can fabricate a bracket. how does the latch differ on the gtr vs the gtst? relocated/different type? Thanks everyone for humoring me and helping me out on this. I want to be well informed and prepared on this so I can do a proper job. xrhettx Im from massachusetts Maybe I will go with a gts-t bumper and gtr hood-grill-headlights-fenders if I can get ahold of them. aluminum doesnt rust which is a very good thing on a car in my area. yea this isnt gonna be a show car for me at all, its a daily driver/auto-x that will never see a show. oh and for the curious heres one persons conversion job done right. You can see however that he used gtr parts and it made the front hang down a bit too low not matching the already lowering bodywork from the kit.

Hello, Im from the USA. I drive a 240sx (known as the 180sx or 200sx over there to you guys) I want to do a front end conversion on my car with r32 parts. Fenders, Hood, Headlights, OEM bumper, etc. I did a search and scanned about 150 posts by now.... ive not really come up with good solid answers. Has there been any modifications through the years of the r32 styling wise? I know the gt-r had the motorized front lip, otherwhise is the bumper different at all? I hear people talk about the different headlights gtr, etc. What exactly is the difference between the different headlights? did all r32s come with projectors? is there a difference between the h3c/h1 projectors? Is there any difference with the fenders? (besides the logo on the side) What about cross fitment collecting parts? (i.e. will I be able to use gtr headlights with a gts-t hood/fenders/bumper other way around etc. with no difference or some modification?) I appreciate any and all constructive replies. Alot of people either love it or hate it and I dont want to debate that here, I like the look, its fairly simple and fairly inexpensive, its also my choice and my car. please respect that. Thank you for your help...

dont you mean ff instead of fr? yea dude ive been told before that the rb25det has the same maf as a 300zx (fairlady z) but DONT QUOTE ME ON THIS. its very possible im wrong but its not a bad direction to research in for a replacement, thats an easier afm to find over here in the states. you could always do the afm correction and make this an excuse to get a q45 afm