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discopotato03 last won the day on November 23 2019

discopotato03 had the most liked content!

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About discopotato03

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  1. I've never had a problem doing them at 5 , I can afford it and it probably keeps things a bit cleaner internally .
  2. Yes I've read about modern engines being supposedly so much cleaner too . The thing is that any garbage that gets past the air filter has to pass things like pistons and rings so if its crunchy it doing damage before it gets to the crank case and oil . I think the cleaner bit comes from running leaner air fuel ratios so less semi liquified carbon/soot etc going down past piston rings and into the oil . This would be a big issue for early diesel engines which were dirty things anyway . No doubt this led to having a full flow and a bypass oil filter . For those that don't know bypass filters are those with finer elements intended to have a low flow rate via a restrictor . They can't be used in a normal full flow application because they don't pass enough oil to lubricate the engine . This is a thread I looked at from the Nissan Patrol diesel crowd . https://www.patrol4x4.com/threads/baldwin-b50-bypass-filter-oil-flow.81757/ Note that their intention was to extend oil drain periods ie from 5 to 10,000 km , you'd think for cost and convenience reasons . Interesting read if you have a bit of time and nothing else to do . Something a bit more interesting is the "dual flow" filters which are supposed to act as a full flow and a bypass filter in one spin on cartridge . I think this is getting beyond what anyone here would need . Anyway , my belief is that a larger capacity filter has more filter area and I reckon less resistance to flow through it . At some stage I'll cut open and compare the elements of a 115 and a 145a . A .
  3. I did put a thread up in the forced induction section . Long short . I measured the OE oil filter mounting base at around 71.5-72mm , this was with a hardly exacting plastic Vernier calliper . I also got in behind that mounting flange with a telescopic small mirror and the Z115s seal is fully supported and cannot blow out . This is on a 96 model R33 GTS25T . I've got around 500 km on that filter and its clean as a whistle underneath - no leaks . What I can say is that my OE oil pressure gauge appears to be showing slightly higher hot idling oil pressure . I don't know how accurate these are but it looks good for a 200K old never been out donk . For a highly modified engine ie with higher volume pumps and using higher viscosity oil (than say 10W40) and high revs , over kill on the filter probably isn't a bad idea . One of the attack squad from the other thread mentioned something about the system going into "full bypass" or not . Unless I've missed something obvious I'd like to know how you tell - other than finding a bypass valve with a stuffed spring . Back in the L Series days we used to rebuild engines with the bypass valve removed and the hole threaded and plugged . With regular oil and filter changes it was no issue . Also in those days most engines used 20W50 grade oil . I don't believe in "modern" thinking with tiny filters - particularly with these extended oil drain periods ie 15-25000 km . The best oil in the world still has to absorb crud over time and small filters can only trap so much As I mentioned somewhere go look at the filter on an R35 GTR . I haven't checked out OE but the Ryco replacement is from memory a Z411 , tiny for an engine like that . Z411 is the suggested one for Mitsy engines like say a 4G69 in Lancers and Outlanders , and sadly 4G63Ts . No way I'm using that on my Evo 6 . Anyway to each their own . A .
  4. If you mean Z115 yep , we were gutting them 30 years ago . No one bothered with 145s because they were considered to be a small 4 cylinder filter . Actually Datto A series engines from memory used longer versions of the 145 . Inadequate is questionable , I see no reason not to make the situation better . Some people will tell you that what is considered overkill now was once called over engineering . Anyway I didn't come here for an argument , just to say what was doable . To each their own .
  5. I can continue if there is some genuine interest . Firstly to the haters , if not interested go vent somewhere else . Basically - f**k off . I've had my R33 since 2008 , aways though the std filter was smallish . Honestly I've never had lubrication issues with this car and you probably won't if you change your oil and filter at around 5K . I converted to Japanese cars back in 1989 and they happened to be Bluebirds with an L20B four pot . Many people I knew from then , including one rally based workshop , lived and breathed cars with L Series engines from 1600s to 280Zs and MR/DR30s . Many used Z115 filters . In the mid late 80s later engines turned up like KAs CAs SRs RBs etc and oil filters started to shrink . In fact since these and other Japanese engines were around the filters shrunk even more . Heaps of people over the years noticed that filters they were buying with the same part number got smaller . I sure the service and parts suppliers told you all that filters were getting smaller and more "efficient" . I call bullshit . I reckon its more to do with bean counter cost savings and "green" reasons than anything else . IMO reasons for smaller filters , cheaper to manufacture/store/transport and throw away crush/dispose . So why did I fit this Z115 , simple . More filter area . Fits no mods or special tools . If anything easier to grip and get at because its a bit longer . Owes me $17 . Has anti drain back and no internal bypass - like OE . Where's the down side ? Lastly go look at the std replacement filter for an R35 GTR , f**k that .
  6. Long story short largest capacity Ryco oil filter that fits a 96 GTS25T on the OE housing is a Z115 . Anyone that wants any details feel free to PM .
  7. Nope just wanted something better than the tidly Z145a .
  8. Forgot to add . DO NOT use Z9 filters on anything except early Fords . Z9 is essentially a Z115 with an internal low pressure bypass valve . Nissan not surprisingly has the bypass valve in the oil filter/cooler housing on RB25DETs and I think 26s too . Z9s were always cheap and a low pressure oil filter bypass valve is not good unless you hate your engine . Back in my early Datto days a Z9 was around $9 and the Z115 I think $13-15 . A .
  9. Can replace Z145a with a Z68 or Z37 on RB25DET AFAIK . Z145a 100mm high , Z68 120mm and Z37 140mm . All are around 82mm seam diameter . The seal OD for the Z68 and Z37 is about 70mm where Z145a is 63mm . Oil filter mount on 33 spec 25DET is around 71.5-72mm OD . I fit a Z68 on my RB25 today and all good . Next time I'll use a Z37 . Edit . I did find a Ryco filter Z581 that's the same 3/4 x 16 thread and with a 71mm seal OD , and from memory it's around 180+mm long . Will get back seam diameter . I think it is intended for a VW Transporter T4 ? Bit exy at 35+ bucks . Even if the can diameter is too big for the std location you could possibly use an oil filter "sandwich" to space it out a bit . Or a cheaper option could be to use the sandwich with a Z115 like the old Datto L Series cars did . These are 140 high/94.5mm seam diameter/70mm seal OD . Like Z145a Z37/Z68/Z115 have no bypass valve in the filter (cause the engine has one ), but they all have an internal anti drain back valve . For the nail biters I had a good look in behind my Z68 with it's larger OD oil seal and there is no overhang on the engines mounting base . In other words the seal can't blow out and leak . As always check yourself if you use these filters . Cheers A .
  10. Hi and thanks for your time . What I was actually asking about was the face where the filter seals against on the aluminium housing with the water oil heat exchanger on it . This is a 96 GTS25T by the way . I removed my standard Ryco Z145a filter today and the diameter of the filter mount is around 71.5-72mm . I had a Ryco Z68 here so I tried it and it works fine . Its basically same thing as Z145a but its around 20mm longer and its seal diameter is about 70mm . Z145a is 63mm . I cleaned everything up and got a small mirror on telescopic handle to see behind it . I can confirm that no part of the seal is exposed so there is no way it can blow out and leak . I went for a drive and confirmed no leaks . I've looked further and there is another filter - Ryco Z37 , that is same as the Z68 but 143mm long rather than 120 . Z145a is 100 long , or high if you like . Z37 was standard I believe on 70s/80s Cressida's and HiAce so easy to get and not as expensive as filters on some late piles of garbage . If you want even larger I can't see why you couldn't fit one of those inexpensive filter "sandwich" plates , to space it further out and use a good ole Z115 like all the old Nissan/ Datsun L Series engines used . These are also 140 odd mm long but larger seam diameter like 94mm vs 82mm . Same 70mm seal OD . These won't go directly in the std filter location because the filter body and rim is too big in diameter . The Z145a and Z68 only just clear the webs near the water oil heat exchanger . The filter sandwich plates are advertised as around 28-30 odd mm deep so may get out past obstructions for a 94/95 mm OD filter ie Z115 . Please don't ever substitute a cheaper Z9 for a Z115 . They have a lowish pressure bypass valve in them , which you don't need as RB25DETs have them on the engine side of the filter . Z9 was for early Fords , nuff said ... All these filters I've mentioned (except Z9) have the same features as Z145a , ie no bypass valve/have anti drain back valve/no anti siphon valve . I am not a fan of todays cars thimble sized oil filters , I reckon more capacity is better within sensible limits . Lastly and a little OT , for anyone interested my Mitsy Evo 6 wears a Ryco Z79a because its larger than the now std piddly oil filter and clears the oil coolers banjo bolts . Z79a is standard for Mazda 323s back in the carby days so again available and not as expensive as the current trend of thimble sized oil filters . Take care and cheers from DP03 . y
  11. The GT37 compressor in 56 trim was around 76mm on the inducer and around 57 from memory on the inducer . Turbine housings , you should be able to buy them in T3 flange to suit a Garrett BB turbo with a GT30 turbine . If running an integral waste gate should be easy to get . You cartridge is the same as that GT3076R 56T got . The part number is 700177-7 , sometimes shown as -5007 . In the GTX gen 2 era the bearing pack changed to the G series type and the part number changed as well . You could get a new old stock cartridge or a later one as they are supposed to be interchangeable in the turbine and compressor housings . And I did look , T3 flanged non gated .GT30 single scroll housings should be available and are V band outlet . Or you can use the T3 flanged integral gate ones with the Ford XR6 style outlet , been done to death on factory RB25 exhaust manifolds . Gated or not gated housings aren't cheap as they are made of Ni resist material . Cheers , A .
  12. Hi all , if anyone has access to an S2 RB25T engine could you please measure the diameter of the base where the oil filter seals against . The standard Z145a seal diameter is supposed to be 63mm OD , if that base is 70mm or larger we could use a Z68 filter which is basically same thing but 20mm longer . Thanks in advance and cheers from Adrian .
  13. The GT37 compressor in 56 trim was around 76mm on the inducer and around 57 from memory on the inducer . Turbine housings , you should be able to buy them in T3 flange to suit a Garrett BB turbo with a GT30 turbine . If running an integral waste gate should be easy to get .
  14. Hi , just happened to look in . I would have thought that most GT3037's on an RB 6 would have used a T3 flanged turbine housing . What kind of manifold do you have ? Do you have any pics of the turbo/manifold mounting flange area . Cheers , A .
  15. I had a similar long term issue that got steadily worse . It turned out to be dodgy immobiliser .
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