D0gg94

Chasing a good condition KR4 silver boot lid, needs to have wing or the holes for a factory GTT wing. Willing to travel or pay for freight. Located Newcastle, NSW

Awesome. The answer I was hoping to get. Thank you man! Legend.

Appreciate the recommendations and the links brother! Your setup looks sweet. I've got a big ol empty space under the driver side headlight, definitely keen to mount it there! Just gotta work out if the plumbing in the diagram will be okay and I'll be purchasing and installing as a complete kit.

Hey gents, Wanting to install an oil cooler with a thermostat onto my ol girl (rb25det neo er34), I haven't decided which kit yet out of all the big brands (probably greddy) but I'm currently running a greddy oil filter relocation kit. The set up on the engine side will look like the first pic below, which answered my first question about whether it'll work/ stack up, My second question is: will I need to change the plumbing of the setup to get the oil filtered in the correct sequence? If the oil runs up to the filter and back as it currently does, and i add the sandwich plate, will it allow unfiltered oil into the cooler once the thermostat opens? Or will it work the same as having the oil filter screwed directly onto the sandwich plate? Artistic diagram attached for your viewing pleasure also. Any input or experience would be awesome. Cheers legends.

Maybe try cleaning the f%$& outta that with sensitive electronics cleaner or airflow cleaner? If you haven't already.. They like to play up when they get dirty it seems... https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102374-symptoms-of-faulty-afm-and-injectors/

Is it running an AFM?

All good brother. Yea it does sound like ignition system, maybe make your way around the engine bay while you got the coils out and double check all your plugs and lines etc? Cheap stuff first haha. Neo cas's are like 600 bucks new so it'd be worth looking for a functioning second hand one somewhere perhaps or borrowing one. If all else fails your tuner will probably be able to help you out with diagnostics. Let us know how you go mate!

Yea just re-gap those bad boys. Maybe just give them a hit with carby cleaner if they're fouled up. Hmm those coils do seem new with that mileage... Well if you have no luck with this cheap fix, then you can start suspecting and ruling out other stuff: Coilpack/s completely busted, Possibly CAS, Boost leaks Etc... Ignition is the usual suspect with misfires on rbs it seems but it could be heaps of stuff. Have you changed anything since it was tuned last? Or did this issue occur outta nowhere ? OR did it occur after you changed the plugs recently ?

Hey bro. Got a neo aswell and it sounds very similar to the issue I just fixed with mine. Only difference was mine didn't play up in neutral... try cleaning up your coilpacks and gapping a set of BKR7E's to 0.7mm. Ignition seems to be the first place to start with RBs as the coilpacks start clapping out under load. Have a gander at this video and follow what he says to do with the coilpacks (Not necessarily the testing etc) Its certainly the cheapest place to start. Good luck man!

RB25DET NEO leftover parts after engine rebuild. - Flywheel - $60 - Crankshaft sprocket - $40 - Exhaust cam sprocket - $40 - Exedy thrust bearing (brand new) - $40 - Crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) - $60 All items except the thrust bearing are in USED condition and were only changed out because I wanted fresh parts for the rebuild. My new clutch kit came with a flywheel and thrust bearing hence why these were left over. May fit other engines. Located Newcastle Can post. Msg me or txt 0431869453

WTB RB25DET NEO Intake VCT cam gear and end plug, I think I'm having issues with mine and want to fault-find. Willing to pay for postage to Newcastle etc etc

BOV SOLD

Currently set up to recirculate but also comes with the trumpet for VTA applications. Worked fine before removal, only changed it because I went with a HKS bov. Current mounting flange is for a rb25det neo, can be changed. $100 Located Newcastle, NSW Happy to post.

Cluster, steering wheel, hks turbocharger and shifter SOLD

Hey mate, it's 75mm (3inch) both sides but has a silicone step-down to a 2.5 inch. And unfortunately it doesn't have any other inputs or connectors. She solid

Hey mate, they aren't too bad, I'll pm you pics of the wheels if you like. There's very minor shaft play

Hey mate, are you still chasing one of these? I just upgraded to a nismo one so my old one is now taking up space...

Garage clean up time: All items came from an R34 GTT Skyline 5sp manual with Hicas and may fit other models, I'm happy to post some of this stuff but would prefer local pick-up, Located Newcastle, NSW. - OEM front lower control arms - OEM front upper control arms - OEM Castor arms - OEM rear lower control arms - OEM rear - front upper camber arms - OEM rear - rear upper camber arms - $250 for the lot or I can separate. All arms would suit new bushes and ball joints, no visible signs of damage to the actual arms, only the ball joints (pictured), - OEM steering wheel w/ airbag - worn - $50 - OEM Dash cluster w/ 230251kms - missing a globe or 2 - $100 - OEM triple cluster - $75 - OEM 5sp manual shifter - $30 - OEM diff centre with 5 bolt flanges - suits rebuild - $100 - OEM rb25det neo oil filler cap - $15 - Turbosmart dual port BOV w/ rb25det neo flange - worked fine before removal - $100 - OEM Airbox - no filter - $40 - Solid metal turbo intake w/ silicone joiner - $30 - OEM radiator hoses - worked before removal many moons ago - $15 - OEM rb25det neo throttle body w/ tps and tcs- tcs does not work and throws a code on a factory ecu - $40 - Oil catch can of unknown brand or origin - removed many moons ago - $20 - 6 x OEM rb25det neo injectors w/ spare o-rings - purchased in working order for fault finding but never used - $75 - HKS GTRS turbo charger - wasn't holding much boost, crack on the rear housing and has some shaft play -- suits rebuild -- $200 All prices negotiable and I'm happy to help the right buyers out. Happy to answer any questions or take more pics.

Hmm the balancer look like it only had some sprayed oil from the timing belt and sprocket going around... But I'll have a look into this. Thanks heaps for the info !

I'll check the VCT bolt tonight for sure, otherwise Yea, might have a chat to the dudes who did it.. cause all the easy stuff has now been changed and checked

Yea it was all pooled down there... But when I changed the seal Just to be certain, the one I pulled out was bone dry, if there IS a groove i guess I'm pretty screwed anyway [emoji17]

Hey gents, So I've been chasing blood (oil) loss from my rb25det NEO.... Basically it's soaking the inside of the timing cover and dripping down the front of the oil pump and sump etc, Now, many hours have been spent attacking the usual culprits for this nonsense: genuine valve covers, half moons, cam seals and front main seal have all been replaced with genuine gasket goo to help. I also re torqued the head studs while the covers were off. To my displeasure I pulled the timing covers off again today and she's still bleeding. I fear it can only be coming from the head gasket seal (or lack there of)... The head was recently (6 months or so ago) reconditioned and ARP head studs, Tomei metal (standard thickness) Head gasket and tomei poncams went back in with it (would have been rude not to...) The place I took it to obviously made it clear they needed to get the deck of the block as smooth as a babies ass in order to seal it with a metal head gasket... I'm thinking perhaps she wasn't smooth enough... But it's certainly not leaking compression so I'm scratching my head a bit cause there's not much room between the front of the block and cylinder #1... surely if it's leaking oil that far foward it would leak compression aswell? I'm uploading pics of where the oil is pooling on top of the water pump for your viewing pleasure. Anyway I guess I'm at the point where I'm trying to work out: A: Are there ANY other spots on the front of a turbo NEO where oil could get into the timing cover ( VCT maybe?) That people know of? B: If it does turn out to be the head gasket, could I just one-for-one it with a genuine HG without getting the head sent to a shop (Again) cause its still newishly refurb'd or is that bad joojoo? (Also not pushing much boost or power... I was just future proofing it) C: Bite the bullet and start looking for/ organising a rebuilt long motor since effort is required either way D: Attempt to convince the shop I took it into that they should really help me out.. (I don't like my chances here because all other seals weren't installed by a 'qualified mechanic', so f$#@ery could ensure) There's tons of experience and genuine dudes and dudettes on here and any input, advice or opinions would certainly go towards the brain storm. Thanks guys if you read this far.

Hey thanks man! I managed to get my hands on a set from a bloke in Townsville!

Hey guys, still trying to track one down. Just missed out on the last one at Yahoo auctions Very serious buyer here! Will pay good coin! Cheers blokes.

My mate @dankphotography snatched a pretty sweet pic of me giving it a boot full at Wakefield park recently. Thought it may be enjoyed here !