Warpspeed

The GTR and GTS-4 tie rod ends are different to all the other rear wheel drive Skylines. The front wheel drive wheel hub carriers are totally different, and the much fatter ball joint taper means the tie rod ends are not interchangeable. Many of the aftermarket tie rod ends listed for R32, R33, R34 fit normal Skylines o/k, but not the GTR or GTS-4.

If you are not blowing exhaust smoke, your seals are fine. Leaky inlet valve seals will suck oil under high manifold vacuum, mainly idle and backing off at high rpm. Crook exhaust valve seals usually show up as smoke when you first start the engine up cold. Oil drains down the stems. While the engine s running, especially under boost, there is usually enough exhaust back pressure to blow oil up OUT of the valve stems. Unless you are seeing smoke, there is no problem to worry about.

Looking for a GTR steering rack, preferably in Melbourne, but it must have both outer tie rod end ball joints. Please pm me with price and your location.

post deleted stuff already sold

The problem is Niran, that the VG30 engine has been used over a great many years, and in many variations, fitted to many different Nissan vehicle types. The turbos also vary a lot between all these various VG30 engines. It is a bit like asking what sort of turbo does a Skyline RB engine have ? Anyhow, the very earliest VG30ET turbos were sleeve bearing steel wheel T3s, similar if not absolutely identical to the the Commodore RB30ET turbo. Both these engines date back to around the same time, and Nissan used similar turbos on both these 3 liter engines way back then. The much later VG30ET's and single turbo VG30DETs used a ball bearing ceramic T3, very similar to an RB25DET turbo, but sometimes with a larger a/r exhaust housing, and slightly different compressor. In between, there were some really odd ball variants on different VG30 engines, Many people will tell you many different, and highly conflicting things about these VG30 turbos, and they are all probably correct !!! The real definite clue is the 45V3 on the compressor housing. I Google'd 45V3, and found this very informative post on another forum: So it looks like that 45V3 turbo is definitely a ball bearing ceramic exhaust wheel, with it highly likely having a plastic composite compressor wheel. And it may have come off either an R33 series two RB25 or some later variant of a VG30DET. If it is in good condition, this is an extremely nice turbo, as long as you don't expect to run very high boost from it.

I will reserve judgment until I have downloaded and read through the entire instruction manual. Something far more complicated may not actually be "better" if it is a bastard to set up, and the supporting documentation really poor. Availability of after sales help will be another factor that will either make or break this product. Great idea though, just hope it can live up to the promise. Me, I will wait twelve months and see how this goes before taking the plunge. .

Strength wise, no different. They are built from fundamentally all the same major parts, but there are some differences. RB25DET has oil squirters RB25DE does not RB25DET has larger oil pump (to feed the turbo). RB25DET has extra water and oil connections for turbo fitted to engine block. RB25DET has lower compression pistons. RB25DET has stronger clutch. How much power? How much safety are you prepared to compromnise. How much engine life are you prepared to compromise. Tell me how big I can SAFELY blow up a balloon without it bursting, and I will tell you how much extra power you can get from a turbo RB25DE (safely) before it blows up. There is no definite answer to either question, it is a judgement call, and how much risk you are prepared to take in doing this? If it lasts six months then cracks a piston would that be o/k? Some people might be perfectly happy with that, because it went like an absolute rocket for six months. Others might not be too pleased about having to pay for a complete engine rebuild. If it s running very close to detonation, and you get a load of bad fuel, or the ignition timing moves slightly, it could cost you an engine. That is the problem with pushing things to the absolute limit, especially when you cannot be really sure where the limit is.

Yes that is exactly right. Garret build, test, and supply exclusively to HKS, special custom parts that Garrett cannot legally supply to anyone else. No doubt Garrett and HKS have a watertight legally binding contract. Why not? HKS paid for all the development costs of designing unique parts. Garret will definitely not sell them to you direct.

Rb26 eh? Response only, no power goal. Rip off the turbos, increase the compression ratio to 10.8:1 with some RB25DE pistons, lighten the flywheel, fit the 4.35 diffs out of an R32 GTS4 and fit some tube extractors. Throttle response with the six throttle body induction should be pretty instantaneous. Well you did ask...........

There are many factors, but assuming similar gearing, similar engine capacity, and best possible engine tune, the higher compression ratio n/a engine should be more fuel efficient. Why? Engine thermal efficiency at very small throttle openings will be greater with a higher compression ratio, and with a lower total exhaust back pressure (lower exhaust pumping losses).

It is not unusual at all. As I said earlier you can sometimes get into trouble with waste spark, but not always. It depends on what you have. I only offer this, so the smarter people can think a bit more about what actually happens during the second plug firing at the very end of the exhaust stroke. If you do not care, well neither do I, it is your engine.

Wasted spark works fine with standard cams. If you are planning to run some fairly radical aftermarket cams, and very high boost pressure, you may have problems. Try to imagine what happens if the intake valve opens at say 35 degrees BTDC to very high boost pressure (air + fuel) then you fire the spark plug ten degrees later with the intake valve still open. If you can figure out what MIGHT happen, you will begin to understand the problem. Guys with the original factory cams will have the inlet valve opening only a very few degrees just before TDC, long after the plug has fired on the exhaust stroke. The cylinder will be full of exhaust gas only. These guys say wasted spark runs fine, and they are undoubtedly right. Nothing really wrong with wasted spark on the right engine. High boost and big cams are not the right engine. Even GM run wasted spark on the supercharged Holden V6, but only with a wimpy emissions cam. Put a big cam in it, and have the potential for some interesting effects under boost.

Want a light R33 eh ? O/k start with a tube frame chassis, turn the all aluminium twin turbo V35 engine around and use a transaxle gearbox, so the engine is in the middle of the car. Then build a fiberglass replica body skin over the whole lot so it still looks like an R33.

Sure it would be possible with suitable valve timing and sufficient intercooling, and a low enough exhaust back pressure. People say 10:1 CR Oooooh that can never work, but if the intake valve does not close until the piston is half way up the bore, then it is really only 5:1 compression ratio isn't it ? Have a real close look at the specifications of a Mazda Miller Cycle engine. Factory compression 10.2:1 supercharged to 17psi, and it runs on crapy 93 octane. This is a mass produced factory engine, with full warranty, that can be thrashed by idiots in tropical mid summer heat without any reliability problems at all. http://www.mazda.com.au/articleZone5.aspx?articleZoneID=3817

I believe you can remove things that do not contribute to either road worthiness or crash worthiness, but much of the interior does exactly that. For instance you will definitely need a working windscreen demister for example, but not a heater or airconditioning. The demister is a roadworthy item, the rest is for comfort. I believe the concept is, that the vehicle was originally crash tested with a crash dummy, and anything either added, or removed from the interior that could conceivably change the crash test results would not be allowed. Everything inside the car needs to be either made soft, or deliberately snap off rather than injure someone on contact. That is the theory as I understand it, anyway.

The trouble is, that engineers and the registration people, and the police, do not like to see young guys put overpowered engines into crappy little cars, knowing they are going to drive like idiots. So you say I am not going to break the law. But why do you need such a dangerously overpowered car to drive around at 60 Kmh ? Yeah sure we know you are doing this just for the technical challenge, and will never street race it or drive irresponsibly. You have three choices. Forget about street registering it and build a proper drag car. Modify the car illegally. The first little accident, or the first random breath test, you are going to get ass reamed by the police. Build a legal high power to weight ratio vehicle, such as a proper hot rod. But you don't want to spend forty grand building a well engineered supercharged big block tube framed fibreglass hot rod. You want to put a cheap high powered turbo engine in a shit box and street race it. Or as you say, have some fun. Good luck, I am sure you will get what you deserve.

Power FC is excellent value, and hardly outdated. If you want to pay more for something with more features that is still plug and play, check out the newest Skyline version of the Autronic SM4.

Most workshops are not very happy about people they do not know just wandering aimlessly around. Too easy to slip some small and very expensive piece of equipment into the pocket. Another reason is safety and legal liability. They could be sued for anything from hearing loss to being hit between the eyes with an escaped con rod. A further reason might be that they just want to get on with the job rather than being constantly distracted by mindless chatter. They are not there for fun, but to run a profitable business. The best workshops might have a lounge and viewing area, where you can watch your car being tuned through sound proof double glass. They might also provide a coffee machine, newspapers, car, and girly magazines if the wait is a long one.

The way the VCT works is that the cam is retarded below 1400 rpm to remove all valve overlap. This has nothing to do with performance, it just enables the engine to pass statutory idle emissions. From 1400 to around 4000-4700 the cam is advanced to improve low end torque by allowing an earlier inlet valve closing point. The higher rpm 4000-4700 is different between the DE and DET engines, and different year models. Above 4000-4700 the cam is retarded to produce later inlet valve closing and improve higher rpm breathing. All this is just to try to recover what is lost by using such a small inlet cam. If you use a larger cam, say 254 or 262 duration, and you don't care about emissions, it will work better everywhere without the VCT. The GTR is able to pass emissions without VCT because it has the six throttle body induction. If VCT added anything to performance, the GTR would have it !!!

Sounds really good. I am currently using an SMC on another vehicle, and am extremely happy with it. This should give the Power FC a bit of competition.

What model Skyline? or will it suit all the RB engines, and does it use a MAP sensor, or the original airflow meter? How much are they ?

If this is on the turbo inlet after the air filter, where is the suction coming from ?

Tin snips are the go. But there is a trick to it! First cut out the piece fairly roughly leaving maybe 10mm of material extra beyond the cutting line. It will be tough going, and the sheet will buckle and wrinkle along the cut, because a big sheet cannot curl as it is cut. Once you have got that far, the edges will look pretty rough wrinkly. Cut again, but this time leave only about five mm of material beyond the line. Because the piece being cut off is now very narrow, it will curl easily and the cut edge will be very clean. Go around a third time, but this time cut right up to the line. It will be very easy to cut around fairly sharp curves, and come out with a nice clean cut with an undamaged edge, right on the line. If you want to avoid scratches, stick wide masking tape all over the sheet, and mark out your shape with a ball point pen. Do all your drilling, cutting, filing and folding. When the whole thing is completely finished, peel off the tape, and it will have an unblemished surface.

I would go to one of the truck places and buy a four inch RUBBER elbow. These are used in big rig truck air induction systems. Truck snorkel intake diameters go from three inch to ten inches or more in diameter, and you can get hoses and bends fairly readily for all the sizes.

Some amazing statements above !!!!! Now suppose an imaginary injector takes one millisecond to open, and one half millisecond to close. Now imagine you feed it with a two millisecond long pulse. Nothing happens for one millisecond, because of the opening delay. Then it flows for one and a half milliseconds. Think about it. What happens if you feed it with only a one millisecond pulse? It is not going to begin flowing at all, before the pulse is gone. The problem with sluggish injectors, particularly very LARGE sluggish injectors is that they can be terrible for idle quality. Large injectors obviously need shorter flow times for the same fuel delivery volume. At idle, fuel delivery is small, and large slow injectors can behave very erratically. Always use the smallest size injectors that will work with sufficient safety margin. And if idle quality is important, faster injectors are always an advantage. A good rule of thumb for a six cylinder engine is Injector CCs = flywheel horsepower, at 100% duty cycle.