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About GeeDog

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    Rank: RB25DET

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    V35 & R33
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  1. Looking good. Where did you get the drip tray that fits over the engine stand - looks like a good idea.
  2. My ball joints were in good condition when I installed the lock bar, but are now stuffed. No idea if the wear rate was the same.
  3. Because not only were the ball joints shagged, so too were the inner joints - it was easier & cheaper to replace the lot with an eliminator (especially after I sell the lock bar). Just a correction for anyone reading this in the future - the circlip doesn't need to be cut off, as it's on the shock absorber side (ie towards the front of the car, which is where you are pushing the ball joint). The flange of the ball joint (on the side facing the rear of the car) has to be cut off.
  4. The lock bar won't have any play, but it only replaces the Hicas steering rack, and still uses the stock tie rod ends & ball joints. This is where the play usually develops. An eliminator replaces these with new arms & bushes.
  5. Removing the old ball joints is the hardest part - the rest is easy. You can use a press, but you'll have to remove the wheel hubs. I did it on the car, using a ball joint remover that I had in my toolbox. It wasn't the best tool for the job - there are much better removers available - but it worked. The whole job took around 3 hours, most of which was removing the bj's.
  6. It's a track car - hasn't been on the road for years. The purple will be covered in crap before too long anyway.
  7. Pedal feels great, as does front/rear bias. No idea what MC it is, but it's the stock one.
  8. Not sure if that was directed at me. If it was ever driven on the road, I think the mods to the rear steering would be the least of my worries when pulled over - they'd probably be more interested in the slicks, roll cage, brakes, engine, exhaust, seats, seat belts ... the list goes on.
  9. We have the ATTKD 8 pot 350mm (or is it 355?) front brakes on a stock master cylinder, on a series 2 R33 GTST (with ABS) track car & they work fine . Rear brakes are stock. No idea how that relates to a series 1 though. We bought the "race pads" from Just Jap with the brake kit, and got about 12 months out of them. Replaced pads recently with some Project Mu but can't remember the model.
  10. Jack up the rear end, so the wheels are off the ground. Hold one rear wheel at the 3 & 9 o'clock positions, and try and move it. If there is free play (ie you can make the wheel "steer"), get someone to move the wheel while you look & feel for where the play is. It is likely in the outer ball joints (where the Hicas tie-rods / steering arms join the wheel hub), but may also be in the inner tie-rod end - the joint inside the rubber boot where the tie-rods come out of the Hicas rack. I've just fixed this on my R33 by replacing the Hicas lock bar & tie-rods / ball joints with a Hicas eliminator kit. You have the Hicas rack rather than the lock bar, but the same tie-rods & ball joints. Old Hicas lock bar with tie-rods The remains of the old ball joints Eliminator kit installed
  11. What are you going to use the car for?
  12. GVM? GCM includes the weight of the tow car, trailer & load
  13. It's brake (not break). And you can leave the rear as is, other than the redstuff pads - they won't last long on a track. If you are going fast enough to need bigger front brakes, you'll melt the redstuff pads in a lap or 2 - they are a street pad. If you like EBC pads try yellowstuff, or hit up Johnny on here (Dose Pipe Sutututu) for some Intima pads.
  14. Normal hose clamp I think - probably what you call a jubilee clip. It's been a long time since I changed mine.
  15. If it's the same braided line as for an R33 RB25DET, the new line has a barbed fitting at the engine end. This barbed fitting goes into the factory rubber hose behind the head, where the stock hard line connects. You'll have fun getting it connected with the engine in the car. Have a look at the left-hand line in this kit -