GeeDog

Members
  • Content count

    595
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

57 Excellent

1 Follower

About GeeDog

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    V35 & R33
  • Real Name
    Geoff

Recent Profile Visitors

4,144 profile views
  1. Did you get this sorted? I've found the body side heater hoses off my R33, and I'm in Adelaide. They are 19mm / 3/4" ID, and appear to be in good condition. Removed cause track car.
  2. I have a set (4) of Enkei RP01 alloys in 17x8" with +38 offset. These were track rims on our R33 GTST until we had to upgrade to 18's to clear a BBK. They were cleaned up & painted bronze when we first bought them. There are some chips in the paint around the edge of the rims, from fitting & removing tyres. The alloy isn't damaged. The centre bore is 72mm so they will fit Ford, Toyota, Mitsubsihi & Nissan - you may want hub rings depending on what car they go on. One rim has been repaired on the inner lip before we bought them - didn't know about it until the tyre was swapped. It looks like a professional job and the wheel had no issues with leaking or vibration. The repair is pretty hard to see. I don't have any centre caps for the rims. Photos are old ones, but happy to get the rims out of storage and take more detailed pics if anyone is interested in them. They aren't showcar rims, but the price reflects this. They are in Adelaide, but I can pack & deliver to a courier depot for interstate buyers. Looking for $420 for the set. Edit - tyres not included.
  3. I'll sell it for $450 plus postage - and to put that into perspective it cost me $330 just to supply & fit the extended oil pump collar onto the RB30 crank.
  4. Long version of the story: It's been to the crankshaft machinist twice. The first time it was crack tested, tested for straightness, had the oil pump collar fitted, the plugs were drilled & tapped for grubscrews, and it was linished. (I was thinking machined, but pretty sure I was wrong - more on this later). The cranksahft guy also supplied new bearings (ACL Race), I can't find the receipt for this job. This was in early 2016, and was as part of a full motor rebuild - block & head machined, forged pistons etc. The issue that prompted the rebuild was cracked ringlands. We put the motor back together, and ran it for about 6 months. Then the turbo crapped itself, and the diagnosis was possible lack of lubrication. The turbo went back to be re-done, and at the same time we bought an extended baffled sump. While the sump was off we pulled the crank out, and because the thought was that oil supply was an issue, took it back to the machine shop to be checked. There was no crank damage, but a couple of the bearings showed some wear. At this stage the crank was checked & linished, and we bought another set of bearings. I do have this receipt - it was Sep 16, and the bearings we bought were 6B1216-STD & 7M1203-STD - so standard size. I can't remember the brand, but pretty sure we couldn't get ACL Race so these were an alternative. The receipt only has the part numbers as above. We put the bottom end back together with the extended sump, fitted the new turbo, and took it to be dynoed. Results were not what they should be, so we changed a few things, checked valve timing etc, and took it back to the dyno. Still not what it should have been, so we pulled the head and found scratches in several bores - looked like bits of the turbine had gone throught it. At about the same time someone advertised a New Old Stock RB30 bottom end - had never been started, so we bought that and built an RB25/30. The crankshaft & bearings have done 2 dyno sessions since the linish. Bearings are all still mated to the journals they were on, and I'd re-use them. If you are serious I'm sure the machinist would have a quick look and give you his opinion - he is an old school machine shop who only does crankshafts - business name is Crankshaft Grinding Specialist P/L. Journal sizes are 48mm for rods, and 55mm for mains - all within around .03mm by my vernier. Pics of the hournals are at Journal pics
  5. A couple of close-up shots of the keyways:
  6. It has been machined, and I have an almost new set of big end & main bearings that can go with it. I'll need to take a closeup of the keyway, will try & do that tomorrow. The only reason we no longer need the crank is because we changed to an RB25/30.
  7. I've got one in SA that's in excellent condition. It has been crack tested & linished, and has the oil plugs replaced with grub screws. It also has an extended oil drive collar fitted. It is from a series 2 R33 GTST, so RB25DET. I don't know if the RB25 & RB25DET cranks are the same or not.
  8. Auto headlight is different to adaptive headlights. High beam assistant is described on page 101 of my user manual. The option code on my car is "S5AC High Beam Assistant", and this is what it does (c&p from a google search): What is high beam assistant? High-beam assist recognises oncoming vehicles at night, switching headlights between main and dipped beam automatically. It's a very clever bit of kit and is claimed to make nocturnal driving less stressful Yesterday I received my new OBD port to RJ45 adaptor, which allows a network connection into the CIC via the OBD port. This makes it simple to get the file needed to allow the generation of an FSC code, which in turn is needed to install new maps. I'd already got the file I needed for my car by plugging the hard disk into a Neutrino VM, but had ordered the adaptor from China a few weeks ago and wanted to see if it worked. Now that I have the OBD-RJ45 adaptor and an IDE disk - USB adaptor, I can backup & restore CIC & NBT hard disks, and generate FSC codes for map updates.
  9. My E92 was pretty bad on poor roads, have now replaced all shocks with Bilstein B4's and it has improved a lot. I'm still debating replacing the 19" wheels with 18's to further improve ride. I'll need new rear tyres soon, so will decide before I buy them. Auto hi beam dips the lights automatically when a car comes towards you - your car may not have it. There is a sensor behind the internal rear-view mirror. Have you run your VIN through a checker to see what options are installed? There are a number of free sites - google is your friend. My latest job was to pull the hard disk out of the CIC, and image it to a new disk. I've had a couple of issues of the CIC getting into a reboot cycle, and I'm pretty sure it's the disk failing. I've got an SSD on order - interface is IDE so not common. At the same time I've also managed to update my maps to 2018.
  10. I bought a modified sump from Lewis Race Engines at Callington. He takes a standard sump, adds wings on the sides and baffles around the pickup. He does it on a swap basis - you give him your sump & some money, & he gives a modified sump. This was originally on an RB25, and is now on an RB30 bottom end. I can't remember the price, but I am happy with the product.
  11. I bought some silicone blanking plugs, in a couple of different sizes, to seal both cooland and vaccuum/boost pipes. They have been working fine, no leaks.
  12. If you decide to rebuild, I have both a crankshaft and a harmonic balancer for sale...
  13. Mine has a black vertical line separating the inner 2/3 and the outer 1/3 (maybe it's 3/4 & 1/4). Everything on the car side of the line is flat, the other side of the line is partly convex to give a wide-angle view.