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GeeDog

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About GeeDog

  • Rank
    Rank: RB25DET

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Car(s)
    V35 & R33
  • Real Name
    Geoff

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  1. Not sure who makes it - we bought a pair (driver & passenger) off Gumtree about 5 years ago. They are specifically made for an R33 (and maybe 32/34?), and bolt into the original seat mounting holes. They look very similar to Ebay seat mounts
  2. We have one of these in our R33 track car. Had it for around 3 - 4 years, and works fine. Car is driven by 2 not-skinny-or-light drivers. You would also need a mounting bracket of some description. Ours uses a 1 piece bracket that bolts into the original 4 seat mounting holes, but the design of the bracket (and the fact that it's designed to get the seat quite low) means that it isn't a 10 minute job to install or remove - your 330i may be different.
  3. As per GTSBoy, it seems to always be in the way of something I'm reading or want to click on. I'm on a PC, and until a couple of days ago had never seen this popup. I thought it was something new.
  4. Recently I have started getting a very annoying popup in the bottom LH corner of my screen labelled "Popular on SAU" with a preview of a post and post heading - I can't find a way to disable it nd it's giveng me the sh***s. How do I get rid of it?
  5. Thanks - lots of options there. I had considered the last option, and decided that if it was that easy everyone would be doing it, so didn't think anymore about it.
  6. To be fair, you mentioned oil & BMW in the same sentence first. So back on track, what tyres have you found?
  7. I have a BMW, and as much as I love it, I'm very qualified to bash it......
  8. Assuming you have 8.5" rims, 245 should be ok. The 245/45 will be a slightly larger diameter, so acceleration will suffer a bit. We tried these a few years ago, and compared to a "real" semi slick they weren't very good. I thnk the AR-1 is a better track tyre than the NS-2R, but not sure how the pricing compares. Have you tried to find used tyres - there are some bargains to be had sometimes.
  9. Probably like moving interstate and needing to get a roadworthy to change rego I suspect.
  10. Thanks for that - massive help. I assume the spacer is just sitting between the block & idler - not welded / JB welded or anything? Yeah - I'm on the fence at the moment. There is a suggestion that the S1 block is somehow stronger, and I've got it. OTOH it was cheap, and maybe the newer block is the better option. I was hoping to find someone who has used the PRP plate - I can always ask them but will they tell me if it's not a good solution?
  11. No, this area on the early blocks needs to have material added, not removed: I can't see anything on page 7 that helps me - can you expand? To be clear, my problem is mounting the idler/tensioner where the top photo on page 7 shows "RB25 Idler". The pic above shows the same location without the idler. On later blocks this area is filled to the same level as the area on the left hand side of the pic.
  12. We've been running an RB25/30 R33 track car for 3-4 years, putting out around 300 RWKW. All was good, until it wasn't - a funny noise & a locked engine, and we found part of a rod on the track. The engine was built with stock rods & pistons. Haven't pulled the motor out yet, and can't even see where the hole is, but it's clearly terminal. We've sourced another RB30 block, but couldn't see until we started stripping it that it doesn't have the flat surface on the front for the relocated tensioner. Apparenty very early RB30's were like this. A bit of research shows that Platinum Racing Products sell a converter - it looks like a shaped plate that somehow attached to the front of the block to allow the tensioner to be fitted. I can't find anyone who's used one, nor much other info about them. Does anyone here know anything about this? The plate is https://platinumracingproducts.com/products/rb30-s1-block-converter Not sure whether to continue with this block, or ditch it and find another one. It does have the turbo oil & water ports on th eexhaut side. The new build will include forged rods & pistons, to try and avoid a repeat problem.
  13. We went the red way, and also wondered why it was so long.
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