msmith

Yeah was going to sell my gtst kaaz and buy a gtr one, use the gtst pinon and crown wheel. The splines on the hubs the same? Just the beating that is different?

I am wanting to do this conversion aswell, i already have a new kaaz 2 way center to put in my gtst housing but i have concerns with the half and drive shafts holding up as i have just started drag racing. I have a few questions regarding everything. Do all 6x1 mech lsd gtr diffs have the same diameter half and drive shafts? Can i replace the wheel bearing to suit the larger diameter drive shaft or does the whole hub have to go? re different spline on the outer. I was hoping to purchase a new kaaz center to suit the gtr spline and install it in my r200 gtst housing with gtr half shafts. If this will work is there anything other than the follwoing that i need? Kaaz diff center 6x1 gtr Half shafts 6x1 gtr drive shafts gtr wheel bearings or hubs if outer drive shaft spline is different to gtst. Thanks in advance for any help.

For Sale: Stock Turbo Setup S2 RB25DET with Aftermarket Downpipe & Wastegate. Turbocharger (requires rebuild) Sidemount Intercooler with Piping Exhaust Manifold Hurricane 3" Bellmouth Dump with O2 Sensor Sidemount Intercooler with Piping Crossover Pipe with BOV Turbo Induction Pipe with BOV & Oil Return Airbox with OTR scoop Oil & Water Lines Kinugawa Adjustable Wastegate with 0.5 Spring (New) & 0.8 Bar (Used) Price and price conditions: $600 + Shipping if required Condition: Used Pictures: Available on request Contact Details: Matt 0423185938 Location: Sunshine Coast Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: Pickup or I can deliver on the sunshine coast, Shipping can be arranged at buyers expense.

Hi Guys, Just wondering if there is a rpm signal wire in the engine bay of a R33 GTS25T. I'm trying to set my idle to 650rpm so i can set base timing with the TPS unplugged and its hard to gauge 650rpm on the stock tacho. I have a Automotive multimeter which can read rpm signals. I have found 2 plugs on the drivers side of the bay, one attached to the fuse box with a grey plug (2 pins) and one near the Brake boost and boost gauge pickup (8 pins) but neither seem to work. Thanks in advance. Matt

I take it that the fast tuner is exactly that, a tool to get a quick and decent result? for people with limited experience/know how. It doesnt surprise me that someone who has tuned cars in more countries than i've been too doesnt use it. Will do, im quite excited. Should be many hours of learning and tinkering.

I'll be buying it in the next week. Been talking to Andy aswell just trying to get my head around the VE tuning and all that. I've had a play with WARI and am much happier with in in regards to usability over haltech and vipec software. Because of my limited mods it seems i can use the base ignition and fuel maps. Once i get it i plan to make some changes to the base fuel map using my wideband and the fast tuner.

Hi, I have been wanting to get a after market ecu as I'm very close to the limits of my stock r33 ecu. I have looked at vipec, haltech and power fc and would like to tune it myself because i dislike handing my car over to others. But have done nothing of this sort before. Could you please give me a run down of how to setup a adpatronic ecu? Starting points etc. I've done as much research as i can. From what it seems the base map will run my rb25det fairly well as it only has basic mods. I think best setup for me at the moment would be a MAP based map with TPS used for transient throttle map prediction, as there is only 1 map to tune and i dont need to worry about highest takes preference or averages between the 2 maps.. I have a Autometer wideband for AFR reading and headphones to listen for knock. I dont need to worry about triggering as the select plug in ecus dont allow modification. I have read the manual but would like to know what you do when you first connect to the ecu without giving away too many trade secrets. Thanks in advance, Matt

All fixed, turned out to be the meter fuse i replaced was dodgy.

No one has experienced similar problems?

Im unsure of the model but they're made by calsonic. I have a spare one, would be willing to part with it for $120 + postage. Can post pictures if you would like. Alternatively you could grab one of these. $170 http://www.ebay.com....=item4abc0f03cd $196 http://www.ebay.com....=item4170522f2c

I recently purchased a 80mm Universal Throttle Body, one that required a Q45 TPS. I was unhappy with this as Q45 TPS sell for $150 and the documentation on loom changes is limited. I had a look at the TB and noticed a removable spigot on the shaft, this spigot engages the gear in the Q45 TPS. After removing it there is the shaft with a flat surface for a grub screw to mate on. I made up a cam to sit on this shaft and cut a slot to engage the paddle driven RB25DET TPS. Care needs to be taken when cutting the slot, you want to engage the TPS is its resting position to give you room for adjustment. The machining could be much better but i only had a bench drill and some files.

Where are the earths located? I have tested the main fuse, all ok there. Power aerial doesnt work either. I have 12 volts at the power windows fuse in the engine bay with the ign in the on position. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the body?

Hi SAU, I'm having some issues with my 1996 R33 S2 GTS25T. I was driving last night and lost my instrument cluster, lights remained but no water temp, speedo, tach, oil pressure. I pulled over and checked fuses and replaced the 10A meters fuse under the dash. This did not resolve the issue. Decided to head home and fix it there. When i got home my drivers side power window would not go up. This morning thinking they could possibly be seperate issues i pulled the door card and cleaned the power window switch. Again this didnt solve the issue. I decided to try to sunroof, no go. So far i have: Cleaned power window switch Checked power window switch fuse 25A in engine bay and swap with rad fan 25A, Also checked with ohm meter reading of 0 ohms Checked all fuses in dash fuse box Checked IGN fuse in boot Reseat all relays in dash fuse box Connected battery to power window motor, just so its not down when QLD decides to floor again I have read many threads but havnt been able to find one with similar issues, Most are either the S1 power window relay dying or dry solder joints on the back of the tach. Any ideas?

How do you go about removing the sender? I have read the other thread and that just involves pulling the fuel pump up on its bracket. Is it the same arrangment for the sender (do i depress the button in the above picture?) or do i need to depress the metal clip on the bracket and pull the sender towards the passenger side?

Unless the fuel vent line comes from under the brake booster (makes sense as the fuel pump is on the driver side). And the air vent comes from both the chassis at the front and also from a steel pipe near the exhaust manifold. Is this correct?