https://www.sau.com.au/forums/rss/1-sau-all-content.xml/All new contentenHi All, I've just imported a 2010 370 GT coupe with 61k km and I'm very happy with the car itself - it has some issues that is expected of a 16 year old car. I've been looking into adding a carplay module to the car and I keep getting told that I have to go with a large tesla style screen. However I want to keep the stock looking centre console. Can someone point me in the direction of a solution? I've been liaising with Incartech who is trying to suggest the 12 inch tablet and that the linked below integration has issues. I have also asked Niftycity - waiting on a response to my enquiry. https://www.incartech.com.au/products/nissan-skyline-370gt-07-14-add-wireless-carplay-and-android-auto-integration-retrofit-plug-and-play https://www.niftycity.shop/products/nissan-skyline-370gt-2007-2014-apple-carplay-android-auto-integration?variant=36510104912022Sun, 13 Sep 2026 10:25:04 +0000Hey there anyone, would somone be able to point me in the right direction for Nissan Fast, Windows 11. ThankyouThu, 10 Sep 2026 19:17:11 +0000Wed, 09 Sep 2026 00:24:54 +0000Hi all, I need in assistance in locating the OBD2 diagnostic port for a Nissan Skyline V36 370gt 2009 CKV36. I've looked around the driver side above the pedals but no luck, checked on the passenger side under glovebox not luck, under the steering wheel, still no, luck, kick panel fuse, nope. If anybody out knows, would much appreciated.Mon, 07 Sep 2026 11:23:50 +0000Hi team, hoping the gurus can help me yet again 😅 My r32 Gtst high beams are stuck on when I switch the headlights on and also the tail lights don’t work only when I apply the brakes. Not sure if these faults are linked somehow??? I am forever chasing faults that pop up and it’s infuriating… Side note I did install an aeroflow high output alternator and it seems to not be charging very much… am I missing a deeper electrical fault ?!!?! Any advice welcomed cheersMon, 07 Sep 2026 09:31:08 +0000Hi everyone, I have a 1998 er34 gt-x, eyelet struts for front and rear, and I recently got some BCracing coilovers. After installing the fronts, I noticed both of them seem to rub as shown in the photo below. Do ya'll think this is okay and will self-adjust or should something be done about this before driving on it? To confirm; it does touch the other part on the right of it so it's not just close but touching.Sun, 06 Sep 2026 18:17:13 +0000As part of a recent cash+trade I acquired an R32 28.5mm Auto-Select Brake Booster. This or a BM57 has been needed for a long time as I'm running Brembos. As part of the install, you need to reuse the p-valve and plug from the oem booster. Issue is, I can't figure how to get it out. I've already tried shaking it out and air pressure behind it, with no luck. I might try air again tomorrow with it warmed up a bit. Anyone have the instructions for these?Sun, 06 Sep 2026 01:21:57 +0000One of the first 20 members to join SAU back in the day! @Majanal was judging! The guy looks no different than he did 24 years ago. Dan gave me my first taste of drifting at SMSP forever ago. Doing a few laps in his gunmetal R33. Great to see him still involved with it.Sat, 05 Sep 2026 11:12:44 +0000Hey everyone, finally getting around to an update. I posted a year ago about getting to 550whp and lifting the head. Since then it's made a strong step forward. I had a shitty cometic on it and the engine hadn't been apart in 18 years. I decided to strip it down and take it back to the guy that built it in 2007. Luckily, he still had the build sheet and we could measure and check everything. To our astonishment, everything was as per the build sheet and rings, bearings and bore were all in as built condition. The hard part was going to be sealing the head. I made a few calls and got put in contact with Kameari who makes parts for the FJ20. Mori at Kameari couldn't be more helpful! I explained that I needed something more than the standard MLS gasket they offer, so they agreed to make a stopper style gasket for me which was made from scratch and sent to me in around 6 weeks. Huge kudos to Kameari! We rebuilt the engine, added a few improvements, main stud kit, arp 625+ head studs, rebuild the head and crack tested the block. The exhaust valves were all leaking and the valve spring tension was down to 40psi. Everything went back together, in the car and straight back to Matt at PITS for a dyno session. First pull on low boost (17psi went 460hp) and slightly lean which meant it was breathing better. Matt worked his magic and on the same boost (26psi) we were up big time. Nearly 40hp, finishing the day with 588hp atw. The dyno sheet shows a few variations where we were testing some intake locations and also shows some room for improvement with air intake. The PWR race series cooler was a good improvement, bringing air temps down around 30 deg C but the big jump we feel was due to better head sealing and a slight cam adjustment. It's noticably faster and more aggressive, especially in 4th gear. Let me know if you have any questions. Happy to answer!Tue, 01 Sep 2026 11:11:17 +0000Yah nah, wasn't a barn find. Just decided to post a log of my old MK4 Golf GTI that I parked up at my parents' property in 2017, never to be moved again. Here begins a work log of trying to get it back on the road. Car turns 25 next year, but I think I'll just keep it on regular rego instead of club plates.Sun, 23 Aug 2026 15:38:09 +0000Hello, I'm in a bit of a pickle, I was reinstalling the upper intake plenum and I've stripped one of the threads. How do i fix this? It looks like a threaded insert of some kind in the manifold are these replaceable? Would re-tapping the threads fix it and line up again? Need advice cheers 🙏Sat, 22 Aug 2026 06:53:31 +0000So I've had issues before with poly bushes with them constantly creaking or squeaking for the third link/upper swing arm bushing pictured here: I ended up getting rubber bushings and got the suspension shop to install it and it's still creaking (Another shop previously confirmed they were creaking, and I jacked it up and felt it and it's 100% that bushing that's still creaking when I'm going up a driveway at an angle) Is it possible that because the shop didn't have the right tool to install it (they didn't use the outer metal sleeve to put a socket on it or something but instead they actually compressed the rubber in a vice and now there is a lip where it's supposed to be flat (I've pointed that out in red, the rubber is pushed in) that they ruined it? I've done this job so many times and before it made sense because the grease kept falling out, but these are rubber and shouldn't need greasing. I also pre-loaded the suspension and even completely loosened the bolt and jacked up the car and it's still making the noise. I'm mind boggled. I did notice during installation that they were going in on an angle initially and they sprayed some kind of lubricant to make it go in easier, not sure if that matters. The weird thing is that it always happens on the driver side. The passenger side is completely fine.Thu, 20 Aug 2026 12:25:47 +0000So, I got my track wheels out to inspect before I get to some track events, its been a while. Despite the tyres being only 6 years old and having lived the last 18 months or so IN the garage on a wheel rack, they are covered in dry rot. Given I now need new tyres, I think I'll try to find a set of 18's rather than 19's for this rubber. Then, I started thinking, considering I do about 3000 k's - 4000 k's per year in my car, perhaps I could get some semi's that are still ok for street use and then I can get rid of 2 sets of 19's and replace with 1 set of 18's. I know that I'll wear them out on the street at 200tw but what I was more worried about was the car being a handful in the wet. We have some roads around us that can get very slick when it rains. I don't want to compromise the cars' safety by keeping the semis on. I can see that a tyre like the Advan Neova has a bit more tread than something like the new Nankang CRS (which is being marketed right at me - a track tyre you can leave on). Thoughts?Thu, 20 Aug 2026 03:24:18 +0000Howdy all, I figured I'd post this here since there's plenty of bright minds, engineers, and machinists, and hence someone might just know a decent place to get some shoulder washers. I'm designing up an enclosure, which for now will be 3D printed. It will be getting bolted onto a metal bracket (Existing). It is actually going onto studs on the metal bracket, they are M6. I do NOT get the option to change the metal bracket or studs. As we're bolting this in, and I need it to stay tight, I'm wanting to use something like a shoulder washer. I've seen these previously made out of metal (in other products), but so far can only find them made out of Nylon. This will likely work for me. About the only place I've found them at through my normal searches is Nut And Bolt (Local QLD Supplier). I've looked at a few other nut and bolt suppliers, but they're either terrible to get information out of, or I can't access their info without being a "business" and registered with them. Does anyone have any thoughts on places I can buy shoulder washers from, especially if they're metal ones? Otherwise I'll just be using these nylon ones. Stud is M6, and max height I can go to is 15mm (Existing height of current metal enclosure) I intend to use about that, and the above being 13mm works perfect for me and lets me still fit a normal washer on top. This is an enclosure I need to supply with a PCB board I'm building up for a company, using about 30 of these boards in total a year at MAXIMUM, more likely 10 a year though, with 3 shoulder washers needed per board. M6 (6mm ID) x 8mm (H) Nylon Black Shoulder Insulating Bus...Mon, 17 Aug 2026 02:49:45 +0000Hi folks, Swapped a headlight plug today because it's been giving intermittent problems but a few of the pins from the vehicle wiring just won't stay seated in the new plug. Obviously as I push the plug parts together they just slide backward. The plug has an opening half way back to access the pins from the side and I was thinking I could just drop a little bit of glue in there to hold them in. It won't affect the contact part at the front. If the plug causes issues again I'll need to crimp new pins on anyway so no harm no foul, right? Thanks guysSun, 16 Aug 2026 10:51:47 +0000So I note there are some inaccuracies in the ad (they are confusing the '89 Nismo spec they are selling with the later and quite different N1 spec), and there are a bunch of expensive Nismo mods..... But does anyone else think the price is a little optimistic? 1990 Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R - Australia's #1 Enthusiast...One of 560 built for Group A Homologation. In exceptional condition. NISMO bits everywhere. Yes, they are genuine LM GT Magnesium wheels. #100284 Come the mid 1980’s Japan was well and truly on theFri, 14 Aug 2026 20:57:12 +0000I've obtained this exhaust manifold from a friend, who said he bought it off an auction from somebody in Australia 1-2 years ago. It looks like a genuine Greddy manifold but I would reckon it was manufactured at least 25 years ago. It is a quality steampipe setup, there is a 4 bolt wastegate flange with a good Greddy embossed onto it. The flange is specific to an RB26 because I already test fitted it onto an 05U head and it fits (even tho it was warped like f**k). The turbo flanges seem to be Greddy td05/6 specific. I actually went ahead and ordered two new Greddy TD05SH-18Gs but I am now a bit stressed that they simply wont fit, I just cannot see how the front low-mount will fit without hitting the block or anything else. I have to wait 1 more week before the turbos get here so I can do a true test fit on the head and block but in the meanwhile I would like to find out the exact model of this manifold. I have looked through dozens of pages of twin turbo setups on a 26 but I cannot for the life of me see this exact manifold anywhere. So would anyone know for sure what this is?Sun, 09 Aug 2026 19:54:58 +0000Hi all, I’m considering purchasing a built RB26 that has an N1 block and swapping it into my car. It’s a first for me and I’m a bit of noob when it comes to this sort of stuff. I can handle the mechanical side of things but in terms of paperwork, documentation and compliance I’m clueless. I’m just wondering when it comes to replacing a motor what does one usually do in terms of registration and compliance? Do we need to modify vin/compliance plates to reflect the engine number? Do we need to modify registration paper to reflect new engine number? If so how? Basically I want to make sure the motor I’m swapping in is done properly in terms of compliance, paperwork etc. I want to have documentation to tell me which car it came out of and what the last recorded mileage was. The seller has told me be doesn’t have receipts for the N1 block. Do most people just go off word and trust, buy and install? What sort of paperwork can I and should I be asking for? Sorry if I’m asking under the wrong section or topic. Thanks.Sun, 09 Aug 2026 08:34:35 +0000Long story short I bought a RB25det neo long motor and decided to change the head gasket as I wasn't sure of the condition of the motor and it was out on a stand before putting it into the car. I have the head to a machine shop who skimmed it, and re adjusted the valve lash because I took all the buckets out in a random order, but I had them sorted by intake/exhaust. Get the head back, everything looks good, they had the buckets in and I bolted the cams down and put everything back together. I didn't run this engine before I took the head off etc. so I have no idea how it ran, but I do think it sat for a while. There was nothing suspicious in the oil pan or in the head galleys from memory. When I ran the engine for the first time I made sure the car had good oil pressure via an electronic race works gauge in an oil filter sandwich plate adaptor. Also got oil pressure on the stock gauge before starting. Everything seemed ok, but as the car warmed up there is an audible clacking noise from directly under the cam cover, both intake and exhaust and it doesn't seem to be in one area it's just along it. I know it's not the injectors because my old neo sounded good, ticked along nicely. This engine does make a nice ticking sound when cold, but thats then muffled by this clacking/loud ticking which starts after idling the car for maybe 5 mins. Anywho, I decided to ignore it because I thought the heads been skimmed and maybe it's just noisier now and that's just how it is. I then realised that a continuous grey residue kept building up on the back side of the cam lobes, which could be wiped off with my finger. I knew this wasn't normal, and it just kept appearing even after running the car for about 1hr. I cannot figure out why this is happening, the noise, the wear (in the form of the grey residue). The valve lash are in spec from my understanding and I've checked them a few times now. I only have feeler gauge that goes in 0.05mm increments, but even still intake side appears to be 0.25-0.30mm and exhaust is around 0.45mm to 0.5mm - with very little variance between each cam. This is measured cold. My understanding is factory specs are: Cold Engine Inlet 0.31+/-0.04 Exhaust 0.50+/-0.04mm Im pretty stumped by all this. Pics attached for reference. I think the cam lobes are starting to wear or already have. Any advice is appreciated.Sun, 09 Aug 2026 07:07:37 +0000hello folks! i am desperately trying to figure out why my driveshaft now looks (and feels) horribly unbalanced after swapping out the center support bearing. i lined up all flanges and splines properly before/after the job. check this out (1st gear at like 3 mph): i had no such issue prior to replacing the bearing. i don't understand what could be causing this... RB20DET manual trans. also clearly i have the wrong driveshaft, in this image the rear half is fully installed and the front half is bottomed out in the trans (so it seems to be about two inches too short). maybe this means the front of the shaft isn't being supported as much as it should be? but why didn't this cause any issues before swapping the bearing out? AHHHH!Mon, 03 Aug 2026 01:14:49 +0000Any fellow r32 gtr vspec owners on here running a similar wheel spec stated above on the title had came across with inner barrel wall not clearing the vspec brembo calipers? My LMGT4’s barely cleared. Both sets are the exact same specsSat, 01 Aug 2026 20:32:52 +0000Hello all, my power steering pump has started whining and squeaking a lot so I was looking to find a replacement pump, however no matter how much I search I cannot find a straight replacement or even a parting out car that I can steal a pump from. Anyone know where I can find one possibly new or a replacement at all? And could anyone confirm that any other car used the same pump?Thu, 30 Jul 2026 02:24:22 +0000Turn the sound up!Wed, 29 Jul 2026 03:14:56 +0000Fourth in the Bathurst 1000 this Gibson R31 is now for sale. Speedcafe.comRare Aussie Nissan Skyline HR31 up for saleOne of just four Nissan Skyline HR31s built and raced in Australia by factory touring car team Gibson Motorsport is being offered for sale. - Australia's #1 motorsport news website - Speedcafe.com If you would like to purchase and donate to the SAU trust, let me know.Mon, 27 Jul 2026 10:47:53 +0000G'day everyone! Bit of a long shot but I recently purchased a V35 coupe to build into a bit of a seat time drift car and while doing some Googling about this chassis I come across this photo of a car that looks identical to mine (3rd picture). I'm wondering if anyone knows the car or original owner/builder, seems the car has had a life with some of the modifications and things I've found while working on it. The car was imported to QLD in 07, the one pictured has custom QLD NIS035 plates, my car has nismo badging fitted on the rear and front quarter panels and also has the same body kit fitted. Would be cool to hear from the original owner, and let them know how the car is doing.Sun, 26 Jul 2026 07:22:24 +0000