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  1. Hello, i am looking to replace my turbo for an original or direct replacement for my -95 R33 GTST with an RB25DET. I have been looking online but cand find a oem turbo or a simmilar bolt on turbo... Can anyone help me?
  2. Hello guys Bough my self an rb25det neo wgnc34 to install on my a31. The engine came with an ecu and everything that is needed to get the car running. The engine is bone stock, i only have modified the exhaust, i have a 3 inch pipe all the way to the back with a magna flow muffler at the end. When the engine was installed the car ran great for 1 week then i started to notice some problems. Bad idle, loss of power, and sometimes the car will surge and would not let me pass 2.5-3 rpm. I changed the maf sensor and added new plugs, that got ride of the surging and the car is now running well, only problem is that its running super rich. The interesting part starts now. I though my car would need a tune and it should run fine. So i started to look at the ecu and the engine and doing research so i can get my self a compatible aftermarket ECU. While doing research i realized the ecu that is currently have on the car belongs to an NA stagea, is that possible? During the first week the car was getting into boost and i was feeling the turbo and hearing it spool and i can feel the car get into boost, is that possible with an NA ecu? Could my car be running rich because it has an ECU that is incorrect? The ecu number is 23713-0v711
  3. My mind is at a loss here, would like some light shed on this please and thank you Bought my self an rb25det neo wgnc34 to install on my a31. The engine came with an ecu and everything that is needed to get the car running. The engine is bone stock, i only have modified the exhaust, i have a 3 inch pipe all the way to the back with a magna flow muffler at the end. When the engine was installed the car ran great for 1 week then i started to notice some problems. Bad idle, loss of power, and sometimes the car will surge and would not let me pass 2.5-3 rpm. I changed the maf sensor and added new plugs, that got ride of the surging and the car is now running well, only problem is that its running super rich. The interesting part starts now. I though my car would need a tune and it should run fine. So i started to look at the ecu and the engine and doing research so i can get my self a compatible aftermarket ECU. While doing research i realized the ecu that is currently have on the car belongs to an NA stagea, is that possible? During the first week the car was getting into boost and i was feeling the turbo and hearing it spool and i can feel the car get into boost, is that possible with an NA ecu? Could my car be running rich because it has an ECU that is incorrect? The ecu number is 23713-0v711
  4. Hello. I bought myt skyline 4yrs ago. First I drove it thru winter (surprisingly good winter ride). At the spring stock turbo waste got stuck. Car was 3 months in the carage. I put kinuqawa bolt on turbo and cheap low mount exhaust manigold. It was rest of the summer this way. Then I planned to do some little changes at the winter. But as many of you know things start to get bigger. I start building rollcage and strip whole car down. When car was tripped it would be stubid not to do some things like stich weldin and sandblasting the body etc. I also wanted to do some wisual mods and strip everything extra weight out from the body. Rollcage caused some changes also. Like stock heater system is not fitting anymore. Rear subfame and diff bushes changed to aluminium. Rear and front subframes and stock controll arms got some extra strenght also. Bash bars in front and back wore made from scratch. Now car is going back to gether slowly and I hope to get it done before 2030 ? Here is some picks of it. More you can see from my ig @nuut3ro
  5. Hi guys, currently wiring a RB30/25 into an R31. My question relates to the wiring at the TPS, wire colour from harness to TPS, which is 5v supply, earth return, signal, from the red, white, blue wires coming from the sensor? I have diagrams showing the harness side however I don’t have a factory connector on the sensor to reference pin position
  6. I picked up an old RB25 from a scrap dealer who sold it as a NEO. It didn't come with an engine cover (the obvious indicator) but I figured I'd be able to identify it once I started stripping it. The first thing I checked was the crankshaft oil pump collar. To my disappointment, this was the standard, short collar which made me think that I was sold a non-NEO. But as I stripped the head, I see it had solid lifters, indicating a NEO. I read that early NEO's hadn't addressed the oil pump collar issue but have the improved cylinder head. It's also meant to have GTR conrods but I'm not sure how to identify those. Anyone else know how I could identify the motor that I have? At this stage, it would be important for me to know how much the stock internals can handle
  7. Hey all, just doing a +t conversion to my 25de R34 coupe. Just hoping someone might be able to help me out with what sort of kw/psi I would be able to push through the de without sending a rod to the moon. I got a pretty stock kit off a DET with a few upgraded bits. - All factory piping, intercooler, fuel rail, intake mani and throttle body, exhaust mani, 3" dump through to xforce exhaust. - High-flowed factory turbo (20psi) - Bosch 1000cc injectors - Apexi FC with controller I know a det can push 500rwhp without upgrading internals but cause of higher comp in the DE I don't know what I should be pushing out of it. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I would still like to daily it but have a fair bit of go if I put the foot down. Thankyou all
  8. Hello everyone I know this topic has been covered a multitude of times but It’s always been plugs and coils plugs and coils, so I bought my c33 about a month ago with an Rb25det series 1 swap car runs idles very well under 5k rpm builds about 0.5 bar of boost but whenever I go WOT after 5k the boost seems to spike to about 1.0 bar of boost causing the car to spit and sputter almost like a limiter/anti lag sound I have recently replaced the coil packs brand new oem and plugs gapped to .8 igniter has been tested and in working condition engine is completely oem from an r33 gtst only thing after market is a Down pipe and a walboro fuel pump any help would be appreciated like I said I know this has been covered but no one seems to include the boost spiking like mine does, thank you
  9. Hello, names Kyle long time reader of these forums as ive been looking for a r32 for a while now and I am finally a happy owner so thought id make an account haha ! Here is my 89” R32 gts-t (RB25det NEO) Few basic modifications/upgrades coil over suspension, exhaust, fmic, injectors, coils, TD06-20G Kinugawa turbo w/ external gate, powerFC having car tuned in the next week as it is running slightly rich and will have some numbers to share?
  10. Hi, trying to look for a good coolant hose kit to replace on my rb25det Non neo. All the small coolant hoses under the intake manifold and heater hoses, had a look on kudos and couldn’t find anything. Ebay only showed hoses from China and not really a fan of getting cheap quality products. Anyone have an idea of where to get a full hose kit?
  11. Hello! I have decided to run a flex fuel setup on my RB25DET. The engine is fully built with forged internals and GTX3076R turbo. To increase HP, I’ve decided to change my fuel system to flex fuel to enable e85. However, I’m new to this e85 world and would like to be informed correctly for my setup. I’m currently pushing 400HP at 17PSI. What fuel pump should I run? what fuel injectors should I use? what sensor should I use for e85 and regular octane detection? thank you!
  12. Hello! Lucky me, I’m mostly asking this question to see if I should stop driving my car or if it’s okay. As I was bringing the front of my car off the jack, the frame slipped, and my jack pushed my radiation up up up up and cracked my fiberglass hood. It also bent my harmonic balancer pulley on my RB25DET where the power steering belt goes just a little bit, looks more like a scrape but does have a little bit of a bend. Should I be concerned about the pulley? I have driven for a day, did a couple of highway pulls in 3rd, cruises, everything feels okay, maybe a little shaky but it could be my own paranoia! Haha. Thank you!
  13. Hey guys... Not a very frequent poster here so bear with me please. In the process of getting all the varying issues on my R34 sorted before I take it in for tune (boost was previously turned right down as I bed in a new head gasket). One of those 'issues' is with the intake piping, the oil breather line from the crank case is currently not connected to well, anything. It's just hanging down through the engine bay to under the car. Obviously this is not ideal and the tuner mentioned I would want to get some sort of catch can setup before bringing the car in. I don't want to feed the oil line back into the intake which I guess means I'll be venting it to atmosphere. After searching and reading through a tonne of threads on this forum and others I'm still no clearer as to what I need to buy unfortunately, as it seems all catch cans seem to have two inlets whereas I only appear to have one line that needs to be connected. Pic for reference, not exactly an up to date one unfortunately but it shows the line I'm talking about clearly enough. Can anyone advise me on this? Secondary question, from everything I've read for venting to atmosphere it's said the PCV should be blocked, is there any real issue likely to come from not doing that? Cheers
  14. Yo... So, after picking up an RB25 block and crank cheap on here from AngryRB, a forged short block build project has been on the cards for the last few months as I already had a lot of parts left over from the last engine build. Will be using Ross Pistons, and I had been leaning towards Spool rods as they will no doubt handle the 600-700hp the engine is being built for. However, after posting a review of the maxpeedingrods turbo I used recently, which I found to be outstanding value for money, I was contacted by MaXpeedingRods asking me if I had any projects happening and if I was interested in using any of their other parts. They make a conrod for the RB25, and loads of other cars, but unfortunately I couldn't find any real info on them as far as the RB/skyline community goes, although a few reviews and a bit of info on other forums, and a more detailed review here https://bofiracing.co.uk/blog/maxpeedingrods-cheap-chinese-rods-our-verdict/ No real horror stories found, (only 2 issues on a VW forums which seemed to result from a rod bolt failure, rather than the rods themselves) with most of the negatives I found seeming to be the ol' " no way I'd use ebay parts" which to me is an attitude about 15 years out of date. After seeing their conrods and comparing the specs to Spool, Scat, Eagle rods, they seemed to be very comparable, (if not the same but rebranded), and MUCH cheaper. Then after discussing with them regarding the product and what my upcoming build will be needing, they have sent me a set which arrived within a few days from the AU warehouse - nice secure box with plenty of foam packing, each rod in a sealed bag and greasepaper-wrapped. The rod itself, when compared to the stock rod, there's no comparison. Nice even finish across it, laser-etched marking on the big ends showing the final measurements, the caps are dowelled giving a precise fitment on the rod. I was a little suss on the genuine-ity of the ARP fastener but have confirmed with ARP, yes they are an official ARP product, made under license. The block and crank are with the rebuilder at the moment (but have confirmed, the crank and bores have measured up fine, so thanks AngryRB ) and I will be dropping the rods into them next week for the engine balancing, so will post up their feedback on the rods shortly.
  15. Hello everyone. my names Shanny.?‍♀️ I am new to this page and I am Im super duper in need of HELP on my build.? I have a R34 GTT neo6. I am wanting to get about 600hp or so out of this stock motor. I am thinking with my budget of $4000.(for now) 455 fuel pump kit? 1000 or 1300cc injectors? Borg warner s362 SXE A/R .90 turbo? (any thoughts) maybe Garrett turbo? front facing plenum, manifold? PLEASE HELP!?? Any thoughts?
  16. I have a 1996 R33 rb25det I have searched everywhere and I see a lot of topics on this but nothing has really helped me First off I was having idle issues on start up. It was sitting around 500rpm so I changed my. Bov back to recirc starts good now. But still sitting around 700 which is fine.. But hadn't fixed properly. I'm still having problems coming to an intersection sounds like it's idle hunting. And it'll drop back down to 0 then bounce back up. I just have to keep the revs up to stop it from dieing. I've cleaned the iacv and adjustig the screw and that didn't do anything at all I've checked for vac leaks and nothing. My thought was maybe the maf but that's sweet. If anyone can help will be appreciated. Thanks:)
  17. This is a story of how I became broke It all started with a text. " is this this what you've been looking for? One just got dropped of here at the scrap yard!" Meet "Pidge" my 92 240sx coupe junk yard save. The backstory on the car is apparently it was some kids project back in the early 2000 that they had lost interest in after blowing the stock ka24de (you'll see the window in the side of block later on ) and had just left it in their mothers backyard when they left and moved off to college. Well I guess the mother was cleaning her property to get it ready to sell and had dropped it off at the scrap yard a few towns over where I have a friend that works. So instead of letting the scrap yard buy and crush it, he paid her cash for the car so it wouldn't be scrapped and texted me knowing damn good and well he'd be able to make a buck or two off of me. The car its self wasnt in the worst condition it sat as high as most trucks out here in east texas and aside from the silvia front end conversion, and backyard straight pipe exhaust job the car was stock. Which for me was the perfect starting platform. That gave me the a fresh start. Minus the headlights no wiring was hacked up everything was there I could of very easily just pulled the blown ka put a fresh motor in and it would have been back on the road.well that and had a key made. The car had some minor body damage that was apparent upon inspection. The sun roof leaked and the trunks spoiler was almost broken off so the interior was going to need replacing and with the amount of humidity we get out here the under carriage was going to need inspection. Then it was on I towed the car back home and parked her out in my front yard for about 6 months while I tried to find the between two jobs and a family to get all of my parents belongings out of my garage and my garage clean enough to get the car up in the garage Then on December 23rd 2018 it got real the car was finally pushed up into the garage and tare down and a thorough Inspection began.
  18. Hey guys I have a problem with my r33 GTST series 2, in every gear when I try go past 6k rpm it stops revving and starts back firing. I have changed the spark plugs, coil packs fuel pump
  19. Hi all, sorry if this has been asked before as I'm a new poster but I couldn't find anything after searching. I need to buy a new afm for my R33 gtst series 2 Rb25det (pink label) and I just want to know where I can trust to get one from as eBay sellers say there genuine refurbed etc but I'm unsure, cheers.
  20. I’ve been f**king around with the lifters in my rb trying to get them to stop ticking. But when I’ve gone to put the cams back in I just realised it’s basically impossible to re seat the timeing belt on the cam gears. I know your meant to use the tensioner to get the belt back on. But to get to it is a bloody pain I’d have to remove my rad and harmonic balancer (which I also don’t have a puller for) and if possible would like to skip all that extra work. Does any one know any little tricks that I can use to get the belt back on the gears without haveing to use the tensioner. I’m guessing I’m probably just gona have to suck it up and do it properly but hey why not ask ?‍♂️
  21. Hello! I’ve read multiple post on similar issues as I’m having but following their steps hasn’t brought me much closer to solving my issue it feels like. So, I created a new one! Issue: I installed a brand new alternator after thinking my old alternator was the issue but I’m having the same problems. The alternator is not charging the battery at 14v resulting in constant recharge to be able to drive it for another 5 days before the voltage gets too low that it can be harmful to multiple components. When car is off: 12.43V When car is on: 12.51V Diagnose: With a multimeter on VDC 20V, I attached the negative probe to the negative side of the battery. Then, I measured all the grounds on the alternator while car is on. Negative Side of Alternator alternator ground to block: 0.05V alternator case: 0.05V alternator bracket: 0.04V alternator battery power stud: 2.5V alternator Battery power nut: 2.5V chasis to block where alternator ground is hooked up to: 0.05V Grounds around alternator: 0.05V With a multimeter on VDC 20V, I attached the positive probe to the positive side of the battery. Then, I measured Voltage drop while car is on. Positive Side of Alternator Alternator Battery Power stud: 9. 47V Alternator Battery Power Nut: 9. 47V Rechecked grounds on alternator: 12.42V The 75Amp fuse is receiving 11.8v on the top pin and 0.01V on the bottom. Where I’m At: With the diagnose I’ve done I’ve determined that the grounds have a prettt good connection, the 75Amp fuse is good, but there is a substantial voltage drop of 9.47V. Question: Does anyone know why a voltage drop could occur and how do I fix it? Could the battery be the issue?
  22. Pistons/rod's that came out of an rb25det block. Never seen these one's before and I can't find anything when I look up the p/n. If someone can identify them it would be greatly appreciated.
  23. Hello my fellow car enthusiasts, here is the dilemma I just built my motor it made 403WHP current set up RB25DET Tomei MX8265 Turbo, tomei elbow, trust downpipe, test pipe 3” all the way back. 740cc injectors, R8 coil packs, 3”FMIC, Z32 MAF, HKS filter, greddy electronic boost controller, nitto crank collar, ACl main and Con rod bearings, all gaskets replaced. Stock bore running a Haltech, walbro 255 FP. anyways I had the car for about 4 days after the tune then it starts misfiring I never even had the chance to have it WOT to feel the power. The car starts misfiring swap the plugs out gap em @.8 it’s fine. Eventually the next day I start her up she’s running like shit again. I do a compression test and it was bad. I believe it has bore wash/glazed. #3 cylinder Does anybody here on the forum know the exact ring gaps for OEM rings? Do you go a little bit bigger for more boost? And if so can someone who is knowledgeable shed some light? Do OEM rings and stock pistons need bigger ring gaps for more boost? Or is that only for aftermarket pistons?? Currently pulling her apart again:( thank you
  24. My r33 S2 RB25DET has a rough idle after about 10 mins of driving when warmed up. It goes from like 200 RPM to 1000 RPM and some times stalls Ive tried to fix it by cleaning the AFM buying new coil packs and spark plugs. Car is stock apart from pod filter and front mount inter cooler also have a boost leak getting about 4psI could this be linked to the idle by any chance
  25. Toyota Echo/Yaris Coil pack conversion for RB25DET Yooo, This is a full conversion guide from RB25det to Yaris/echo coil packs. In this guide, i'm going to try and include as much information as I can but please forgive me as i'm an electrician and not the best at writing. This is an insight how I did it. Please treat this as a guide, and don’t crucify me if you don’t agree on something I’ve done cheers. - Please read full guide before attempting coil pack conversion, cheers. First, bit of background: I decided to attempt to convert my RB25det to yaris coil packs, I found there's not a huge amount of information out there about this conversion other then people just selling "conversion kits". I found a few really good informative websites about coilpacks & wiring information (which i'll link), and a few photos of some rb's that have been converted, other then that I didn't really find any guide for it. I personally was on a bit of a budget & thought what you got in the conversion kits for the money plainly wasn't worth it. Why Yaris/echo coil packs? -Cheap (i'll include prices of what i paid for everything.) -Reliable -Don't suffer from heatsoak as bad as Splitfires or OEM coilpacks -Good for 100hp per cylinder -Easily attainable -Tried and proved method, common conversion for the 1j and 2jz boys. -Heaps of information around for them, including dwell times etc Part 1: First thing to do is get some coil packs and plugs, I decided to go for Toyota Echo/Yaris coil packs part number: DENSO 90919-02240, I went to 2 local wreckers and found 8 coil packs for a total of $100, depending where you go this might vary. I could have got 6, but for the money & the chance of me blowing them up, I thought it would be a good idea to get spares. A trip down to DIY Wreckers with a pair of side cutters looking for Corollas, Camrys, Echos and yaris’s for the 4PIN denso coil pack plugs, these cost me next to nothing, make sure when you cut them off you leave yourself plenty of wire to rejoin them. Check (if you live in usa): Costco Weekly Ad, or Supercheap Auto Catalogue. Part 2: Mounting plate After looking at a few of the conversion kits, & photos of finished cars this is what I came up with. I used aluminium 4mm plate. The 3 bolts I used to mount the plate to the cylinder head were 70mm long, same thread as the standard coil pack bolts that go into the head. I also got a 12mm long bolt the same thread to earth the head using an eyelet using the last bolt. Think they’re 10mm metric. Mounting coil packs to plate: While I was at the bolt shop I also got 6 x 10mm bolts 35mm long, with 12x nuts. I used the bolts from the bottom, up through the top of the plate & secured them with a nut, then with a washer & an extra nut secured the coil pack to the plate. I don’t have measurements of these holes, as I marked them on the car with a sharpie. Picture tells a thousand words: Wiring: Here we go, the wiring: When using the Denso coil packs, I found the wiring diagram and information about the coil packs on: http://www.sq-engineering.com/tech-articles/coilpack-info-guide [Pin 1] Earth / common ground: This grounds each coil to the body / earth, an electric connection to to the cam cover alone is not at all suggested. [Pin 2] IGT / trigger: The signal wire to activate the firing of the coil, triggered directly from the ECU's ignition output. These can paired with another coil for a waste spark connection, for example using two ECU ignition outputs to run four coilpacks. See the next section for more on this subject. [Pin 3] IGF / ignition feedback: Used by OEM ECU's to confirm the firing of the ignition coil. If a coil malfunctions the ECU will sense the lack of this fire confirmation and put itself into a fault / limp mode. This is not normally used at all with an aftermarket /stand-alone ECU and hence only three wires are used for each coil. [Pin 4] Power (+) / ignition power: This is the main power supply for all of the coils, this power feed is activated when the key is turned to the "Ignition" position. The most common and suggested method of connection during a conversion on a four cylinder is to remove the power feed from the original single ignition coil and use it to power all four of the new coilpacks. Pulled straight from SQ engineering, whoever you are thanks!!!! I’ll buy you a 6pack get in touch with me. Now that we know the pin outs of the Coil pack, it’s simply easy to just work out the skyline coil pack trigger wire pin out, & use the factory 12v plug to give them power. Coil Pack Trigger wire colours for S1 RB25det Cylinder numbering goes from Front of block towards the back. Cylinder 1: Blue and Orange Cylinder 2: Blue and Black Cylinder 3: Blue and Red Cylinder 4: Blue and Yellow Cylinder 5: Grey and Black Cylinder 6: Purple and White To join the factory trigger wires to the new coil packs, I cut the factory plug off the trigger wires, bought a 6pin water proof automotive connector from jaycar & terminated my new coil pack loom and the factory harness to the corresponding wires. For 12v i cut the factory plug off the original 2pin connector off your old coil pack harness & solder that to your ground and 12v, think the white was + and black/red was -. Use your multimeter to confirm this. The ground wire (-) needs to be doubled up with the ground from the 2 pin plug & also your cylinder head. Before taping: Finished product: Once loomed all taped up, plate and coil packs mounted. Drives awesome, no hesitation at around 17psi. This guide got way out of hand. F***. If anything seems unclear please let me know so i can edit, cheers.
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