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Found 12 results

  1. Hey joined to gain some knowledge on the Rb20det I'm familiar with nissans been working on them for years mostly our USDM KA24DE. Anyway here's my turd
  2. I've read a few things that the S14 and ECR33 share the same Front Lower Control Arms and others say their different.. Not sure which is correct, I am looking to place these on my R32 GTST, Any Help would be greatly appreciated!
  3. Hola to all, I have been visiting this forum for a while and I know there is a lot of good info and experience here. Today I decided to sign up, it was about time, lol. I have been working on this 1995 240sx for a few years now. I have a built rb25det with forged internals and I have bought a lot of aftermarket parts for it. The supension is done, exhaust and paint job. 350z wheels and tires with 300zx calipers, steel braided lines and slotted/Drill disk brakes. The head was completelly done, valves, springs exhaust and intake ports, I have an ECU Masters EMU pcm for it and I just have two or three more items to buy and then I will put it all together. I am shooting for at least 650 whp on e85 tune and a little less with 93 octane. It is a work in progress with no time limit as long as it comes out right. I know there still a lot of work ahead of me. I work alone! lol, but it is a lot of fun, I will post pictures when I comence the art work. Yes Rb's I think are a work of art. I am former military guy and I like things dress and right! I Love these (Datsuns) Nissans. Nice to meet you all.?️
  4. RB25DET is burning oil What's up, I am having trouble diagnosing what is causing my rb25det to burn oil. The engine is in a 240sx RHD, the following are the most critical parts of my setup: Great condition GTX3076R Garrett Turbo, new 740cc injectors, new head gasket, Fully built valves, new top mount manifold, new coolant/oil lines, new pistons, bored cylinders, 44mm wastegate, recirculating bov Deleted pcv system due to the rb26det valve cover conversion but I am atmospherically venting from the valve cover Oil weight is 10w-30 synthetic The car was running fine 6 months ago when I got the engine finally running but now it starts smoking as soon as I start it, cold or hot, the piece of misery will start smoking blue smoke. It will smoke as you start it, as you idle, as you accelerate, and especially if you rev it high. There is no oil in the turbo inlet. Please help me figure this out, thanks!
  5. Bad piston rings or damaged cylinder walls? Recently, I opened a discussion on my excessive oil burning that my rb25det does and thanks to the help of many enthusiasts we concluded that it is bad piston rings or a damaged cylinder wall... or can it be both? Engine had a full upgraded rebuilt 6 months ago with it being bored over .020 over. It has been driven 1000 miles or 1609 kilometers since I have compression tested all my cylinders and it showed a psi of 50-70psi. When I did a wet test it shot up to 120-135psi My rb25det has a 1.5 cosworth head gasket so compression will be lower than normal My hopeful prediction is that the piston rings have seized, been installed improperly, or the rings are worn out. The reason why I don't believe its damaged cylinder walls is because every cylinder shows the same sign of compression loss and piston rings go out together. Cylinder walls are unlikely to all be damaged at the same time What do you guys think?
  6. Hello! I have decided to run a flex fuel setup on my RB25DET. The engine is fully built with forged internals and GTX3076R turbo. To increase HP, I’ve decided to change my fuel system to flex fuel to enable e85. However, I’m new to this e85 world and would like to be informed correctly for my setup. I’m currently pushing 400HP at 17PSI. What fuel pump should I run? what fuel injectors should I use? what sensor should I use for e85 and regular octane detection? thank you!
  7. Hello guys, I’m contemplating to convert my RWD 425hp RB25DET in my 240sx to an AWD. I hear all I need is the AWD transmission and AWD oil pan. Well, plus the hubs and axles, and probably oil pan adapter plate. But is it possible and what are all the parts I would need? It doesn’t sound hard to do. I’m contemplating this conversion for safer all year driving, faster track time/ acceleration. Better performance. Could I just change my tire setup and increase HP to achieve close AWD performance instead?
  8. This is a story of how I became broke It all started with a text. " is this this what you've been looking for? One just got dropped of here at the scrap yard!" Meet "Pidge" my 92 240sx coupe junk yard save. The backstory on the car is apparently it was some kids project back in the early 2000 that they had lost interest in after blowing the stock ka24de (you'll see the window in the side of block later on ) and had just left it in their mothers backyard when they left and moved off to college. Well I guess the mother was cleaning her property to get it ready to sell and had dropped it off at the scrap yard a few towns over where I have a friend that works. So instead of letting the scrap yard buy and crush it, he paid her cash for the car so it wouldn't be scrapped and texted me knowing damn good and well he'd be able to make a buck or two off of me. The car its self wasnt in the worst condition it sat as high as most trucks out here in east texas and aside from the silvia front end conversion, and backyard straight pipe exhaust job the car was stock. Which for me was the perfect starting platform. That gave me the a fresh start. Minus the headlights no wiring was hacked up everything was there I could of very easily just pulled the blown ka put a fresh motor in and it would have been back on the road.well that and had a key made. The car had some minor body damage that was apparent upon inspection. The sun roof leaked and the trunks spoiler was almost broken off so the interior was going to need replacing and with the amount of humidity we get out here the under carriage was going to need inspection. Then it was on I towed the car back home and parked her out in my front yard for about 6 months while I tried to find the between two jobs and a family to get all of my parents belongings out of my garage and my garage clean enough to get the car up in the garage Then on December 23rd 2018 it got real the car was finally pushed up into the garage and tare down and a thorough Inspection began.
  9. Hello guys! This week’s car problem isssssssss the fuel gauge is reading incorrect fuel level (always at full or close to full) I have an RB25DET wired to a S13 hatchback fuel sending unit. I have double checked that the fuel gauge is grounded properly and connected correctly. So, next step was to check the fuel sending unit which I found is reading 0-2 ohm in both fuel and empty. So! That means it is reading the incorrect resistance. Is there a way I could fix this without buying a whole new sending unit, perhaps a resistor? Thank you all!
  10. Just bought this rb25 swapped 240sx (96’) it ran just fine. Was driving it home when the battery moved and leaked acid (in the trunk). I ended up buying a new battery and 4gage wire and new connectors. Reworked the battery safely to the trunk. Wanted to make sure the car would start and it did no problem. Since I had trim and stuff up I wanted to recarpet the car as it looked like some cats gave birth in the car. I did so and also installed gauges and a new radio. Finally went to start the car this morning after everything was done and all it does is crank won’t start please help!
  11. Hi everyone, I’m relatively new to the RB-series world and definitely new when it comes to timing an engine using G4+ link. My car was running well, and then I decided to take everything apart and powder coat it. The engine bay is looking GREAT! However, I can’t get timing right, the idle is all over the place, and it’s backfiring consistently, which I think is causing the engine to overheat as well. Timing is set at 15 degrees on g4+, but I can’t seem to be able to match that on the crank using a timing light Things I messed with: 1. CAS 2. TPS 3. idle control valve Things I observed: Idle: 1,100 to 2,200 RPM, lost of misfire crank timing: 5 degrees How can I get the CAS (at 15 degrees), TPS, and idle control valve to be happy with each other? Any procedures? I’m here to learn! Thank you, Eric
  12. Hello everyone! After years of driving my car, I recently decided to pay attention to my voltage gauge and saw I was only getting 12.5-13v of charge. the alternator charge stud: 14.6V L terminal on the plug: 10.9-11.3V Exciter wire: 10.9-11.3v Whenever I disconnect the charge wire from the battery, the voltage on the exciter wire goes to 12.5-13v and the charge wires shows 14.6v… I don’t get it. As soon as the charge wire is connected to the battery, the exciter voltage drops to 10.9ish volts. The current exciter wiring is weird, as it goes into a relay… I don’t remember why I did that. I’m thinking of changing the wiring to this here: Would this work? thank you, eric
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