Search the Community

1973 240z Brisbane 45k, but would be interested in an R32/R34GTR Deal I bought it 3 years ago now, with the full intention of turning it into a JDM princess and enjoying it. Unfortunately the best laid plans don't always work out. As the car needed more body attention that i originally thought, rather than restore the car and not enjoy it at all for 5 years, i chose to rebuild it mechanically and leave the restoration (read: respray) until a later date. The car has been finished for about a year now, and i just cant seem to get the energy going to strip it down, have the body redone, and put it all back together. It would be lucky to have driven 1,000ks in the 3 years ive owned it. I should clarity right now, this car is 100% driveable. It starts, runs, idles, brakes and steers excellent. The ONLY thing it needs is the rust removed, paint redone and new parts installed (to replace the old ones you wouldn't want to re-fit after restoring it). If someone didn't want to repaint this for another 5 years, there is nothing stopping you from enjoying the car and driving it anytime. With that in mind, i have decided to do an EOI on it to see if someone else wants to run the final 100m of this race and have one of the best 240Zs in the country. Apologies if there are rules against EOI, but either way i would struggle to put a price on this as the current market (Car Sales and Gumtree) is extremely inconsistent. Anyway, lets start with the good bits. As you can tell by the list below, this car had a very specific goal in mind, which was to completely replace everything which was old and crap, and replace it with as much JDM goodness as i could find. A lot of the work on the car (MCA coilovers, S2000 seat mounts, stack gauge surround etc) has been created by myself or D3C0Y and cant be bought off the shelf. In short, i have spent a lot of time researching and finding the best bits for this car, which are what is going to make it very well sorted. The Car 1973 240Z Engine and driveline L28 F54 Block (engineer approved) P90 head 280 duration .495 lift Wade Cam MSA performance valve springs Triple 45mm SK Racing Carbs with velocity stacks on TWM manifold (restored by Lou Mondello and jetted/tuned by CnJ Motorsport) 180HP ATW Kameari heat-shield Alloy catch can Adjustable alternator bracket Redline fuel pressure regulator Light weight Flywheel (4.6kgs) Excedy HD Clutch Fujitsubo headers (HPC coated) Fujitsubo Legalis R stainless exhaust and muffler 280ZX Electronic Distributor 3 row 56mm aluminum radiator with twin 12 inch fans 280z 5 speed manual New clutch slave cylinder New upper and lower thermostat housing New lower water inlet Chrome bolt kits and replaced bolts in many places 4.1 R200 LSD Suspension, Brakes and wheels Front and rear (cusco) strut bar Front and rear white-line sway bars Front and rear adjustable end-links MCA blue series coil-overs (front inverted mono tube with 5.25kg springs and rear non-inverted with 4.5kg springs) (engineer approved) TTT Adjustable front and rear lower control arms TTT adjustable castor rods 260Z front hubs 280zx 15/16 master cylinder 300ZX 4 pot aluminum calipers with braided brake lines (engineer approved) Front 300mm vented and slotted RDA disks New handbrake cable R31 rear calipers (solid disk) with braided brake lines (engineer approved) Rear solid RDA disks New tie rods New wheel bearings Watanabe RS 16*9 and 16*9.5 Toyo Proxy T1R 225/50/16 and 245/45/16 Interior Honda S2000 seats mounted to stock rails (engineer approved) More new bits, screws, fasteners and clips than i care to count Electronic ignition (Original tacho modded to read electronic signal) Nardi Steering wheel Replica leather handbrake and gear boot Original 5 speed shift knob (plastic slightly cracked but wood is good) Restored center console with Fairlady Z badge Stack Oil Temp, Oil Pressure and Voltage gauges All lights work Billet map light surround New hatch and footwell carpet New passenger side grab handle Exterior Kameari Front spoiler Replica 432 rear spoiler Replica ZG flairs (body cut and welded) Reconditioned front and rear bumpers Genuine 510 Chrome fender mirrors Navara glass headlights Spares (to be installed after painting) Brand new diamond pattern interior trim (front and rear) Brand new roof-lining and A pillar trim kit Brand new full rubber/seal kit Brand new pedal rubbers Drivers side outer window rubber Fairlady Z dash emblem Genuine Fairlady Z badges So what needs to be done? It needs to be repainted. It was resprayed over the original green and the surface was not properly prepared. So there are some areas where the paint has split, has gotten silicone/moisture underneath which has caused imperfections. It needs to be repainted. It was resprayed over the original green and the surface was not properly prepared. So there are some areas where the paint has split, has gotten silicone/moisture underneath which has caused imperfections. Rust to be removed. The only rust i have seen (and i have been working on the car for a few years now) is in the bottom of the doors and one spot under the rear window rubbers. That doesn't mean there isn't more, but its not showing anywhere else. It also doesn't have a roofliner, because the original one was replaced by some horrible white fluffy thing which fell off as i was driving from Brisbane to the Sunshine coast. Rather than fit the new one, i was waiting until it was resprayed so i wouldn't have to pull it out twice. There is a small leak in the tappet cover gasket from the head not being perfectly flush (bottom of head was planned so the headgasket is a perfect seal), one small leak from the front cover gasket and one small leak from the front of the diff. The Dash is cracked, and currently has a cover on it.

Home Built Z 'Full video build' Hey guys, I have not been an active member here for quite a long time, but I have owned a bunch of Turbo Nissan's over the years, including my R33 which featured in HPI magazine many years ago now. I was out of the game for a while doing the sensible adult thing, but now I have finally come back to what I love, cars. I know this is not technically a Skyline, so if I am no longer welcome I understand. I have always had a thing for the 240Z's, and around 12 months ago I found a very clean (and stupidly expensive) 240. This week I have finally been able to start work on it. I bought it as someone else's project, that they tore apart, but never got around to doing much beyond that. I saw a diamond in the rough, as it was a complete car (well all the bits are there) and it has almost zero rust. I know lots think that, but the shell is amazingly clean. I have been working on another project, a '73 Porsche 911 RSR inspired build, for a while now and documenting it all in my YouTube channel. I have reached a stopping point as I am waiting for custom engine parts, so this means it is time for the Z. I first needed to replace the front wheel bearings on the 911 so I could put wheels on it and move it out of the way. I then got into doing a stocktake on my Z to see what it needed, and start formulating a plan for the build. Here is the episode.

240z with an RB30DET, Vic roads registration issues Dear Sau Community, I am planning on swapping an RB30DET into a 240z. I was wondering if anyone can see any blatant breaches of any VicRoads or Epa laws? I have read on here a Skyline with an RB30DET is illegal due to a modern Skylines emission standards and how it is a larger engine. I see the reasons that were explained there but do they still apply to a much older 240z? I plan on getting an RB30E engine block and replacing the head with a twin cam one from an RB25 skyline. Due to the engine being newer, having EFI, possessing double the valves, crossflow design and a better spark plug position it would be much more environmentally friendly than an older carburated engine despite it being 0.6L bigger than the L24. Does anyone know if the EPA has an issue with this? Maybe some turbocharging action could come later but for now, the swap is the biggest issue. It would also be very much appreciated to hear from anyone knows someone or has done it themselves who has tried and either failed or succeeded, your knowledge on the topic would be a great help. Also, anyone who has a completely legal RB swap in an S30 would be awesome too. I wait for your replies with bated breath. Regards, JSBlueGuy

Hello everyone, first post on the forum. I live in California and I'm trying to get some info for a project of mine. I have a 1973 Datsun 240z that I'm attempting to install an RB25det NEO engine and 5 speed transmission into. I am having a heck of a time finding a "HowTo" for wiring a NEO engine. I do not want to pay to have a harness build as I'm quite capable, provided I have the info I need to complete the job. I have been scouring the internet looking for any sort of well written how to on the topic. While I was on another forum I saw a member there who had received lots of help from a member of this forum. The member heres name is Simon, but I do not know how to get in contact with him. I'd like to speak with him to see if he would be willing to share some info with me. Below is a link to the other forum post I'm speaking about and in it you will find the reference to Simon. Simon is not the only person I'd be willing to take Info from, ANYONE with the information that is willing to share with me would be greatly appreciated. I am just looking for a basic (These are the wires you will need, ie: color/pin number, to apply switched power, ground, constant power ect) type of help. I appreciate everyones time and hope to have this project on he road soon, given your help. http://forums.nicoclub.com/my-r34-rb25det-neo-f3-plug-pin-wire-colors-still-confused-t542427.html Thanks again.

So much OH MY GOD! Absolutely in love with this! It belongs to Sung Kang.

God I love this 240z I did notice that even after the mentions of it being a 240z, at the end a brief clip of the 1/4 panels shows a 260z badge.