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Hi all, I can't get my consult interface to work and I suspect a dud ECU consult interface. It's a S2 RSFour. I have checked it has 12V ignition connection and a good earth, and RX & TX wire continuity from the pins on my consult interface to the pins on the board. I have tried two different consult interfaces which work in other cars. So it must be the ECU - argh. I only have a 2WD ECU to swap in and test (both cars are auto though, and S2). Is anybody familiar enough with the ECU pinouts to know whether a 2WD ECU can be safely connected to a AWD ECU? I suspect it will be OK, because from a quick inspection it appears as though the only connection to the ATTESA system appears to be "integrated control signal (multiple communication)" which sounds like data to me - hopefully disconnected in the 2WD ECU? I have been going by a R34 ECU pinout. I don't know if it's different for stagea. Anybody know if it will be safe to test the 2WD ECU in the 4WD car? cheers DaveB

As the title says, I am in urgent need of a series 1 automatic 4wd gearbox for my RS4 Stagea.

1999 Holden Rodeo Dual Cab 4x4 Wow how much value can you get here? This is the CHEAPEST, manual, V6, dual cab 4x4 rodeo here with extras!!! Priced for a quick sale!!! V6 3.2lt 5sp manual. 220,000kms. Power steer. Air con. Sunraiser Alloys BF Goodrich All Terrains. Sports bar. Factory Holden tray liner. TJM bullbar with Rod holders. Mod plated child restraints in the back. Overall a good solid truck. Has a few dints as per most 4x4's. Representing amazing value for the young family or bush adventurer. Have child restraints fitted makes this rodeo a sought after car as rodeo's don't have them fitted by Holden. This modification is mod plated and ready to carry your young crew anywhere you like. This car from what I can see and tell is easy to just get a RWC and register in your name. As is $4500 No rego, No RWC. Drive it away on permit. NO SWAPS. Located Upper Mount Gravatt 0408 Six Zero Five 725

Selling for my boss. Up for sale is his 1996 R33 Nissan Skyline. It's a 2.5L NA 4WD 4 door auto and completely original. It's been sitting in a paddock for a few years and so the paint needs a good cut and polish. It was imported from Japan in 2002 with just over 100k on the clock, with a Nissan 100k service sticker to verify this. When the car was imported it ran perfectly with no dramas at all. Currently the car turns over but won't start because one two wire connector on top of the engine seams to have been bitten by a rabbit. However this seams to be the only damage of the sort and is in a very easily accessible location. The interior is in very good condition aside from the occasional spider.. Exterior has some wear and tear, small dint on front of bonnet, front bar paint is cracking slightly and other slight signs of wear as you can see in the photos. Patch of rust appearing on right rear corner of bumper and scuff on righthand sideskirt. Reason for selling is that it's taking up space and I need to move it on. Unfortunately it cannot be registered because it's power to weight ratio is not great enough to classify for the Register of Specialist and Enthusiast Vehicles. If interested feel free to contact Dave on 0412 316 011 for any questions or offers. I'm not looking for much for it, but at the same time I don't want to give it away. Feel free to make me an offer

1999 Series 2 Stagea Metallic Black Manual 252kw @ the wheels @ 16psi Located : Cheltenham, SA Neil – 0433 852 094 Neo motor - 109xxxkm (100,000km Serive done) Garrett GT3076R turbo Garrett braided line kit Turbosmart T boost controller Nissan Z32 AFM Nistune ECU Walbro fuel pump 550cc injectors Adjustable Exhaust Cam Gear + Clear Cam Cover Turbo Back 3 “ Exhaust with 3” Varex Muffler (Quieter than stock to stomper loud in a button) HKS pod filter Greddy catch can 52mm alloy radiator with twin thermo fans on relay Delta fin FMIC kit with t-bolt clamps throughout Oil cooler/relocator kit with braided lines ISC N1 coilovers on 12/10 springs (Firm but not stupid hard) GTR sway bars (Custom Adapters) MASA Front Bar + Dolphin Grill and Skirts (Was told it was a Dolphin kit when I bought it) Factory Momo steering wheel Air/Fuel + Boost Gauge 17"x8” +32 BBS RS-G Wheels with 1000km old Achilies ATR Sports 235/45/R17 All round. R34 brake conversion at all corners Adjustable suspension and camber arms GTR manual 5 speed conversion with Nismo HD clutch kit Tow bar rated to 1200kg professionally fitted Polishing to engine bay (Lifter Covers, Crossover pipe, Heat shield) New Fusion Power Plant Stereo RRS 250 Custom Plates Included I may include a proper 260RS Manual Center Console (Go for $1k on Yahoo Auctions) for the right buyer. Con’s : Gearbox thrust bearings are noisey on acceleration, and an aircon has rubbed through causing it to leak. $14000 As Is $15000 with Rebuilt Gearbox and Aircon fixed.

Up for sale is my MY07 Subaru Forester X. With Brand New Clutch! Have owned the car now for a bit over 2 years which has served me very well and has no major accident history. It gets great fuel economy, ranging from 500-600kms per tank, and have always used BP98 fuel. 90% of the kms on this car are highway/freeway kms, which is much healthier for the engine than the usual stop-start driving in the city. The car has recently recieved its 100,000km service including all driving and timing belts. Also all shock absorbers and springs have been replaced with brand new items, giving an excellent and very smooth ride. It now has a brand new clutch that has just been fitted less then 100kms ago. Also I have replaced the standard front grille with a carbon fibre STI forester grille, sourced from Japan, and have replaced the parker globes with L.E.D lights giving a brighter, whiter light. Also comes with original grille. The car also does come with a tow-bar and a cargo barrier, which were fitted from factory. Feel free to contact me 0432 183 021 and inspections are welcome. I am located in Adelaide. The price is advertised as $17,000 and this is negotiable, however no low-ballers/dreamers please.

So I am a proud owner of a 1990 Nissan R32 GTS4T 4 door RB20DET Auto just under 115,000kms and it has had the 100,000km service completed only couple of months ago (love manual but I needed a 4 door and this was the only one available that was also Turbo, the auto in this config is better than the manual imo as no loss of boost going through gears but sucks at take off but I can get it to drift, though to continue to link up drifts really need to power on and swing the car side to side to keep it loose and shift between 1st and second and ride that boost, really driving the car hard to drift a 4wd and would benefit from an increase in PSI). It has been looked over by the RWC mechanic and Pedders, somethings were found by both but Pedders found a few more. They really are the suspension specialists. So I need the following parts to complete RWC and just to bring the car to a good mechanically sound level. The links are just what I have found on ebay and am open to advise and other products. Front upper control arms with new bushes fitted was considering a pair of these http://cgi.ebay.com....#ht_3816wt_1163 I have been quoted $150 for a reconditioned pair of stock ones. These are the dimensions, are they suitable for the GTS4T? I thought $160 for pair shipping included wasn't bad. Don't want to pull off stock ones to check dimensions if I don't have too as I still need the car to get around in. Inner and Outer CV boots are worn and the grease is all gone and the joints have been damaged so are clicking I have been advise to change the complete CV shaft left and right. So both left and right front CV shafts, joints and boots required. Are these what I need? Rear tie rod end bushes (They look like a knuckle setup, they are the ones out at the wheel you can see it from looking under and behind the wheels) I will take some pictures and post. All discs need machining due to being worn, rusty & glazed but I have been told these are lipped and cannot be machined so looking to upgrade to a slotted vented pair thinking rears can stay stock style but need new discs. Front http://www.ebay.com....9#ht_632wt_1163 Rear http://www.ebay.com....9#ht_500wt_1180 not sure if slotted really needed for rears. Left hand front shock very firm near seized both front shockers advised to be changed. What is a good value for money pair? Left hand top shock mount requires replacing due to shock failure it has been taking the brunt of the absorption, should I change left and right or just the left damaged one is ok? If just left I am looking for stock one if both I saw these http://www.ebay.com....a#ht_500wt_1180 Front D Bushes worn need replacement (sway bar mount bushes) is this a set that will fix this? http://www.ebay.com....4#ht_1679wt_960 Light play in steering rack it PASSED for Pedders and RWC mechanic but they said should be looked at in the next 6 months, I think it is fine but wondering what a reco one will cost and is a 2WD rack different to a 4WD rack? Radiator hoses are hard and crunchy and need to be replaced. Found this http://www.ebay.com....#ht_1401wt_1163 are they correct ones. I need a Left dash heater air vent The CENTER GEAR CONSOLE SURROUND is cracked,pitted,melted by cigarette burn and chipped so was looking at this, seems pricey though, but the ad mentions more durable than stock one. http://www.ebay.com....#ht_1514wt_1163 Hoses behind radiator, in front of motor (oil cooler pipes) need new clamps. Hoses are slightly perished but not the cause of leaking it is the clamps that are at fault for leaking but they recommend changing hoses and clamps at same time and advised only need less than 1.5mtr of hosing to do, what is the dimension of the pipe that is required? I can pick up a length from super cheap unless there is a highly recommended alternative product. Rear under side has a little surface rust and they recommend treating it with fish oil anyone concur? Found this, is it needed? http://www.ebay.com....#ht_2406wt_1163 So supply of parts if any are for sale would be awesome but peoples advice both on parts choice, compatibility and pricing would be appreciated.

While my s1 was sitting for a month or two waiting for me to finish the water pump and cambelt replacement, it turns out the rear shocks leaked out and are now good for nothing. Earthquake ruined roads here are partially to blame. I've seen some advice on here about replacement shocks, mostly upgrading or lowering, neither of which I'm interested in. I just want to replace the standard shocks, unless it's no more expensive to upgrade. I've sourced a local supplier $153+GST each - Anyone in Chch/NZ know of a better price than that? (bear in mind 4WD) Is there anything particularly tricky to this replacement? Do I need special tools? If there is no guide on SAU (I couldn't find one) I'll see about documenting my steps. I'd appreciate any advice/tips on this job... Cheers

4wd isn't working and so trying to diagnose. Tried to bleed the system yesterday but after disconnecting the green/white plug (pic attached), The pump didn't run and i could take the bleed valve completely out of the transfer case. Someone suggested getting access to the Attesa ECU and reading the faults from that via flashing LED. I got to the ecu but i couldn't see any blinking lights or anywhere that could blink? (pictures attached) Am i missing something here?

I've got a 98' Series 2 Stagea and the 4wd doesn't work (See more here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463038-help-with-fault-finding-attesa-system-attesa-ecu-c34/#entry7685341) Just wondering how do i retrieve error codes relating to the 4wd system? I've got to the ABS/ESP computer (Also 4wd?) and a few forum posts reference a red flashing light through a hole or someone said it is on the PCB itself. I've pulled the cover off the computer and could not see a light anywhere (See photos attached). Is there another way to get the codes?

Hi, my 4wd in my stagea doesn't want to work with or without the 50/50 button pressed, sometimes there is both the 4wd and abs lamp on but I don't know how to check the codes, where does the ecu even sit? But the 4wd doesn't work even when the light isn't on when I spin the front wheel the axel to the gearbox does rotate, the oil for the attesa is there. I don't really know how to check if the pump is working or not. Help would me appreciated thanks

Hello everyone, I've got 96 Stagea (RS Four). Some days car works perfectly fine, others it becomes jerky straight away after start without 4wd light coming on. When the 4wd light comes on it reads as code 54 (Pressure switch and circuit). Car gets very jerky at low speed, especially if turning. If I turn the engine off and back on it erases the 4wd error and car works fine. Fluid for 4wd system is at adequate level. MAF had been replaced. I'm just wondering if anyone had the same problem or you guys know what might be the issue. P.S. Please forgive me if I sound silly as English is not my first language.

2002 M35 Stagea ARX Four Nissan Stagea M35 ARX four. Has all of the nice features of an M35 such as full leather interior, VQ25 turbo engine, 4wd, HICAS, since it's an ARX four also factory MOMO steering wheel and 18 inch alloys. Has plenty of tasteful mods including: 3" dump and quiet straight through stainless exhaust, HKS type S intercooler, custom 3" stainless intake pipe, Garrett GT3071R turbo, cooling system mod and thermo fan conversion, LPG gas injection system, heavy duty tow bar. Awesome fast wagon and cheap to run on LPG. Just needs a computer and tune to maximize potential! 215000 k's Brisbane south side, Contact Lenny 0431 301 320 Negotiable at $8500

The 4WD light is on and there is a slight shudder at start (from stopped), and shuddering at parking/large steering angles. So far i've; - checked the fluid level - bleed it - verified that front wheels are driven by putting the car up on stands What else can i do?

r33 gtr 4wd and a,lsd light on soo i had bought a r33 gtr that was stolen and recovered, the whole car was intact apart from missing atessa pump and hardline choped , so at that time the car was running in rear wheel drive, i had bought these parts from a vspec that was being wrecked and put both in, new fluids, bleed it etc now my 4wd works , but only issue im left with is both lights on the dash (4wd & a.lsd) i had checked my atessa ecu which indicated a red light and code 34 ive tried connecting it 2 different diagnostic machines but wont work as i have a power fc has anyone ever had the same issue, any help or info will be appriciated as i just want everything to be sorted

1999 Holden Rodeo Dual Cab 4x4 Wow how much value can you get here? This is the CHEAPEST, manual, V6, dual cab 4x4 rodeo here with extras!!! Priced for a quick sale!!! V6 3.2lt 5sp manual. 220,000kms. Power steer. Air con. Sunraiser Alloys BF Goodrich All Terrains. Sports bar. Factory Holden tray liner. TJM bullbar with Rod holders. Mod plated child restraints in the back. Overall a good solid truck. Has a few dints as per most 4x4's. Representing amazing value for the young family or bush adventurer. Having child restraints fitted makes this rodeo a sought after car as rodeo's don't have them fitted by Holden. This modification is mod plated and ready to carry your young crew anywhere you like. This car from what I can see and tell is easy to just get a RWC and register in your name. As is $4500 No rego, No RWC. Drive it away on permit. NO SWAPS. Located Upper Mount Gravatt

I have known for a long time that my 4wd doesn't work. with the ignition on and trying to do the attesa bleeding procedure my pump will not ever come on. i have 2 issues i believe, firstly, my pump has siezed up and i know this because i have bypassed the big relay in the boot and can not get the pump to start even whacking it the same way that frees up a fuel pump usually whilst bypassing the relay and giving the pump power. but i believe it has siezed because the ecu is not ever closing the relay. i have tested the relay on the battery and it is very noisy when it clicks closed. i can not hear the relay click closed when the ignition is turned to on which i have heard many other r32 gtr 4wd systems prime the pump every ignition cycle. i'm not getting any codes unless i induce a fault like unplugging the pump or a relay, so my ecu believes all is well and my front torque guage is operating correctly. my theory, my attesa ecu or wiring loom is stuffed and therefore the relay never closes and my pump is never getting used and that's why it has siezed up. any opinions would help. i should try another ecu and see if it closes the terminals on the relay and when all else is working well i should replace the pump, right?

2004 Nissan Stagea M35 for sale in West End, Brisbane, QLD.Imported and complied from Japan in October 2017 via Jspec (condition 4.5/5).72000 km 5 speed automaticRWC + Rego (October 2020)Detailed photos from 2017 in Japan.Comes with everything in photos, ie stock springs, stock shocks, stock grille, Nissan emblems, Bose stereo, Momo factory option steering wheel.Also installed:- Kenwood DMX8018S (Apple Carplay / Android auto) with rear view camera.- Custom heavy boot matLeaving the country. Need to sell ASAP. Negotiable. I rather sell to someone that will use it and enjoy it than a dealership. Kind regards Casper+61423457110

Hi guys, I took my gearbox off (R33 GTR) the other day and I made a mistake. instead of simply removing the pipe at the end of the gearbox, I removed the whole Flansh (Unit) where the pipe is attached to. Now my question is: Is it fatal? and there was a lot fluid coming out which I assume was the Transfercase fluid. Is that correct? So if I assemble it again can I simply reseal the unit and fill the transfer case and bleed it or was the fluid a different one than the on out of the transfer case? Is there anything else I need to take care of? Best regards!

Anyone had this issue before?: i was trying to bleed the attessa (r33 gtr vspec) and the strange issue that I have is that the bleed mode of the pump does not work. Ive done it 2 years ago and it was working. so when i disconnect the white connector under the dash the pump only starts if i turn ignition on, but when opening the bleeders it wont start on loss of pressure. if the connector is connected the pump won't do anything no matter what. also strange is that there is only very little fluid coming through the diff bleeder, as there is no pressure. On the other hand there is good pressure on the transfercase bleeder. I have no ECU connected, never touched any wiring on the attessa sytem and fluid level is ok. anyone can help?

I have for sale 1 brand new never used digital G sensor. This is the Circuit Spec model, very similar no doubt to the Tarzan GBox version. I've never used it so don't ask me how it performs but these units are getting excellent reviews in Japan. Apparently 30times faster than analogue G sensors. Cheaper too than a factory Nissan G sensor. Win Win! They retail for around $700+freight, see below link. http://www.nengun.co...igital-g-sensor I'm asking for $575 inc postage anywhere in Aus. Bargain!