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What was previously thought to be a Coil Pack issue now looks like an Air Flow Meter problem. My Power FC is showing an AFM1 reading of as low as 0.4 while AFM2 is steady at around 0.75. This causes the car to shake, idle rough and lose power while driving. Sometimes this happens constantly. Other times the Power FC will show both AFM's hovering at 0.75 and the car purrs like a kitten and drives like normal. Does anyone know whether AFM1 needs to be replaced or is this an issue with the connector/earthing? I haven't tried cleaning the connector with a spray (I was planning on buying some spray tomorrow).

So, I've had an interesting week or so. When my car was started from stone cold; it had no issues. I could drive to work, leave the car all day, then drive home again. If I stopped fill up, or go & do some shopping, then restarted the car; initially, it would randomly stall at idle, and throw a CEL code; P0100, which is the AFM. It did it once, then not again for several days. Reset code; no issues. If restarted, the car would drive normally. Progressively over a week or so, it would stall more regularly on a hot restart. Then t would throw the light immediately at hot start, and when you accelerated, it would get to 2200rpm, and start stuttering as if the AFM was disconnected. After a few minutes of driving it would behave as normal. I replaced a very dirty air filter, but no real change. Cleaned AFM; no change. It occurred to me, that on my Informeter; if the intake temp was above approx 35-40 deg; the problem would manifest, and it started doing the same thing if driven in traffic, and the Intake temp rose to the set level. Eventually, the CEL would not reset, but as long as the Intake temp was around ambient or below 35 deg, the car would drive perfectly. Replaced AFM with the spare I had from Scotty (for just such an occasion) reset CEL; issue hasn't reoccurred. Very strange. Can anyone with an Informeter tell me what their AFM reads when the engine is NOT started? Just with the key in the ON position? Mine is roughly 1.02v even before being started. Settles around 1.47-1.50 at idle. Cheers guys, hope this helps someone. I've never seen an AFM fail in such an unusual and random fashion.

Wanted, Air Flow Meter for RB20, Part number 22680-02U00, 5 pin with green label. Must be genuine (not Chinese) and in good working order. I am in Brisbane. Thanks. Alan 0414 915 267.

Chasing an Rb25DET S2 AFM plug & wiring. Mine has been dodgied, wires rubber cemented to pins on the AFM, and now that the AFM has died I want to do it properly. Only need a plug but a couple of inches of the attached wires wouldn't go astray either.

Hey Guys just wondering if anyone can give me some info on ECUs hope this is the right section ive recently purchased a 95 33 GTS-t and the guy that i got it from wasnt really sure what the previous owner had done, but he was fairly certain it had a Z32 afm and a highflow turbo ive done some searching and the orange sticker on the AFM suggests it is a Z32 and the turbo has also been highflowed today i decided to pull the ECU out and have a look to see what has been done to run the Z32 as it is my understanding that it has to be tuned to run correctly but from what i can find and see the ECU is stock as a rock, number on the front says its from a manual s1.5/2 33 which is correct but im not really sure what im looking for inside ill add some photos to this post any help greatly appreciated

Hi guys, does anyone know the different angles of the throttle butterfly valve with respect to the rpm range of the engine? I also need to know the air flow rate with respect to the rpm of the engine. The engine must be a rb25det, preferably running with stock turbo, stock boost and stock intake manifold. I know most of the info can be obtained by consult software like Ecutalk, but I don't have access to a consult cable. I need the info for some CFD work. Any help would be much appreciated! Sam

As the title say, I'm after a R33 S1 Green label AFM. (Must be in good working condition). Unless someone could repair mine for me.. Location: Gold Coast Cheers.

Hi Guys, Seeing as when I run into a starting problem I try to get some info first, I thought I would post how I solved my no start issue for my R33 S2. The car is great, best I have had as it rarely runs into trouble and if it does it is usually responsive to the first thing I do I love her! Anyway, yesterday I got some fuel and went for a little drive. I turned the car off to run into the shop and when I tried to start her it was a slow start and died pretty much as the engine started. I tried a couple more times and would only keep cranking & cranking. Battery was good, got no codes from ECU, heard fuel pump prime and relay click etc. I was worried maybe fuel pump as I didn't really smell much fuel considering the cranking but that didn't end up being the case. Narrowed it down to CAS or AFM. I had a spare CAS so I unplugged mine and undid the three bolts and removed it taking note as best as I could of the bolt position. I put the spare CAS in and it seemed to fit easier and was easier to turn and adjust. Guessed the correct position, tightened bolts and plugged in and she started first go! I was having the occasional slow start which I have put down to being the CAS now as well. For the first minute it sounded like it had a slight miss but after a run that was gone and it sounds so much better than before and starts great. I also gave my AFM a clean just in case which helped also. Anyway, I hope this helps someone! Here is a pic of her with her new wheels. Emily

Hi guys, does anyone know the different angles of the throttle butterfly valve with respect to the rpm range of the engine? I also need to know the air flow rate with respect to the rpm of the engine. The engine must be a rb25det, preferably running with stock turbo, stock boost and stock intake manifold. I know most of the info can be obtained by consult software like Ecutalk, but I don't have access to a consult cable. I need the info for some CFD work. Any help would be much appreciated! Sam

Hi everyone, This is one of my first posts on this forum but I have been a member for a while and a lot of this information has been very helpful to me. However this one issue I am having I cant seem to find any answers for? To begin, I have an 1997 r33 Series 2 that is completely stock besides a cat back. The previous owner put an atmospheric BOV which I had changed with haste to the stock one. It has been having crazy fuel consumption issues (getting 200-250kms to a full tank) and blowing a bit of smoke. It also lost power at high rpm when I booted the car, as if the car instantly lost boost and made a rapid fluttering noise out the exhaust. Since changing bits and pieces such as new PCV valve, new valve seals, compression test shows 135 across the board, new spark plugs gapped to 1.1mm and today, a replacement AFM. The smoke has almost completely disappeared and the fluttering noise had gone as well as fuel consumption has been much better (200kms to half a tank). This is where the problem has appeared. I ran a diagnostic test using the paper clip method only a couple weeks ago and my ecu showed everythign was fine, (code 55). Since replacing the AFM however, I ran another check and the code 34 came up which is my knock sensors. The funny thing is I cant hear any pinging or knocking when im driving and if anything there is a slight noise which is barely audible near the turbo after a good drive when its idling (I dont know if this is considered knocking as I have never heard knocking before, kind of sounds like the heat shield is cooling down or osmething because the knock is very intermittent and doesnt sound at all like marbles in a tin can). I only hear this when the car is idling or on turbo timer and only if i open the bonnet. When replacing my AFM I was a little pissed off cause my hands are too big and i couldnt reach the one stupid bolt connecting the stock air box which is under the solenoid without risking it falling into the engine bay somewhere so I ended up shoving it in as hard as I could and i suspect i could have accidentally damaged the wiring to the solenoid. SO my question is, are there any other reasons as to why my ECU could be showing the fault code 34? Could it have been my roughness with the air box and fiddling around that somehow damaged the wiring on something (like the solenoid) that could have confused the ecu into thinking the knock sensors were effed? Or am I kidding myself and it actually is the knock sensor? Ive read that knock sensors need a good thrashing ot actually not work properly, So i dont see how mine all of a sudden "don't work"? Any suggestions, advice or ideas would be appreciated! Thanks for your time!

So after my car being off the road for 6 months finally got her booked in to be tuned Tuesday next week. Finished a few small mods and maintenance issues and last night I did my coolant. Only real modification's worth noting for this topic are: -removed aftermarket fuel rail and FPR in place of going back to stock. -installed recalibrated 'Nismo' AFM's after having Z32's. -removed 'Apexi' pods in place of going back to stock airbox. Now I'm getting the dreaded poor idle, running rich and it won't rev over 2500RPM. So after a search this all points to AFM's and the soldering inside (my units are virtually new though (refurbished) so I would like to think this isn't the issue) The only thing I can think is that when re-wiring the standard plugs back in I've possibly mixed up one of the wires? If I recall there was two wires the same colour... I've attached the best drawing I could find googling but naturally I don't read Japanese. does anyone have a better standard wiring diagram for the standard RB26 AFM plug?! ...Or does anyone have any other thoughts on what else could possibly be wrong?!

I'm selling the below parts off my GTT. They are all the old parts I had laying around after doing my last upgrades, most are in great condition. Rear suspension | R34 GTT (fork type) - JIC Magic (Left seems to have lost pressure), otherwise excellent condition, no rubber cracks at all - $200 Stock internal fuel pump for R34 GTT - $50 Stock air flow meter - $50 Stock cat converter - $50 Stock mirrors in gloss black, great condition but right mirror is missing the plastic that connects to door - $50 Return flow intercooler 600x240x60, excellent condition - $200 Rear seat belts with coils, excellent condition - $50 Rear stock seats, slight staining on seats but can probably be cleaned - $150 Stock right head light, none xenon, broken clips and floating clear plastic bit on inside - $200 I have pictures of everything so just send me a text on 0431516718 and I'll send a picture of whichever part. Pickup from Adelaide or bank deposit+postage at buyers expense. Cheers, Tom

Hey all, I have a fair amount of R32 GTR gear in my house that I no longer need so want to try and get rid of it all. All prices are just a rough estimate and I am negotiable on all of them so make me sensible offer and I will probably say yes. I don’t mind posting the smaller stuff (at the buyers expense) but some of the bigger/heavier items I would rather have picked up. Need this stuff gone a.s.a.p. so will be very negotiable on prices. Location: Townsville, 4810 Standard R32 GTR AFM good condition $40 the pair Cam covers polished, in average condition $50 Exhaust Downpipe, unknown make or age. Slightly damaged $75 RB26 standard camshafts $100 Standard R32 GTR ECU. $100 Standard RB26 cam gears $40 Apexi Power FC with hand controller. Bought but never fitted. $850 Standard RB26 coil packs $40 Brand new in box Gates racing timing belt to suit RB26 $100 OEM 3D Carbon Fibre Vinyl Wrap 1520mm x 5000mm $50 RB26 Fuel rail $30 Standard R32 GTR BOV's and pipe $50 RB26 'Twin Turbo' pipe $50 I can get pics on request. If I find anything else I will add it on. Can get hold of me on 0406188865 or send me a message on here. Thanks

Bought this brand new genuine Nissan Z32 for my 34 from another forum member but will no longer need it, have it for a few months while I've been slowly modding my car. It has only had an Apexi pod bolted to it for a trial fit for clearance and thats it. The plug is a Bosch plug with connectors and the rubber boot to suit, the bag has only been opened to check the pin outs as I was trying to work out how to wire it in for my car. Price is $300 delivered anywhere in Aus

Selling my brand new Bosch Z32 AFM, these come with new tomei plugs/tails. Was for my R34 GTR, however I have sold the car and these are just sitting around. I am after $300 each. Everything is still new in boxes/packaging. Sheldon Gold Coast, QLD 0450313126

Hi everyone the follow items are for sale. I am in SA but happy to post and buyers expense within Australia. APEXi Power FC with Hand controller - For a Manual series 1 R33 GTST - In great condition - $850 APEXi AVC-R Limited Edition boost controller (Black) with an additional new control valve and all instructions - In excellent condition - $500 Z32 AFM with plug - In great condition - $180 Jun rear Pods - Black - need a respray but other than that in pretty good condition - $100 PM me for more details

I have the following parts for sale with pickup from Melbourne or I can send interstate at the buyer's expense; Z32 ECU with Type 2 Nistune board - suits RB25DET - $300 ono AEM UEGO Wideband Gauges + sensors and harnesses - $300 ono Rush Racing Antilag Controller - $100 ono Z32 Air Flow Meter - $150 ono

Hello Skyline community, Up for sale are pre loved parts from my R34 GTR. Nismo AFM x 2 Near new, still in original boxes with japanese instructions. Had them tested at Racepace and are in good working order. $ 650 R33/R34 GTR Ohlins PCV coilovers Purchased second hand from Japan. Had them shock dyno tested locally, and driven no more than 1000k in Oz. Fully adjustable- Spring rates are 10k front and 8k rear. These coilovers give supreme handling (even with cheap maxxis tires) however I personally found them to hard for daily use. $ 1300 R33 GTR Tein type CS coilovers Purchased second hand from Japan. Have not been used at all in OZ. Great setup for the street and daily drive. Excellent build quality from Tein, very light weight coilovers. Fully adjustable - Sping rates are 4k front and 4k rear. Handling is slightly enhanced over stock VSPEC suspension, and does a good job of soaking up bumps. Compatible with R34 but with specific bump/rebound settings for R33. $ 1200 R33/R34 GTR Blitz Inductions cover & Filter Purchased brand new and used for less than 200k's in OZ. A well and truly discontinued line from Blitz. Makes swapping the induction cover on/off a breeze if you want POD like sound. $ 300 R33/R34 Blitz POD filters and elbows Second hand in good condition. $ 250 R33/R34 K&N POD filters and elbows Filters are band new and never been used. $ 300 R33/R34 Apexi POD filter kit Purchased brand new and used for less than 2000k. Great condition, complete with brackets, screws, box and packaging. $ 250 Stock R34 GTR Turbo's Done 60,000K, purchased my car stock standard, only mod done was factory boost restrictor removed. Never boosted past 1bar. $ 800 Apexi PFC Boost Control Kit Purchased second hand from Japan. Done about 1000k in Aus. I reverted back to stock solenoid to keep a factory appearance. $ 300 Kuhmo KU36 265/35/18 tires Great condition, done less than 5000k. Used only on the street and never thrashed. Upgraded to set of Michelin Pilot super sports. $ 550 R34 GTR Trust Oil Cooler Kit Purchased second hand from Japan. Never installed it on my car - In good condition, I believe its the model that sits in front of the radiator. $ 450 RB25/RB26 HKS Ex Cam gear Still in box, good condition, a few scratches and marks. $ 120 R34 GTR Ganador Dual Titanium Exhaust These are as rare as hens teeth! Purchased second hand from Japan, never installed on my car. Still contemplating whether or not to sell. However i'm already running a Single ti Ganador which is also very cool. It has a dint on one of the tips which can be repaired. Upgarage is currently advertising one of these in less condition for 99000yen! $ 1400 All parts are in Melbourne. I will be happy to send parts interstate at buyers expense. Please post/PM any questions or requests for more photo's. Cheers, Chris.

Unused - $550 Sydney 2155 pickup Jason 0430061241

Hi all, got a few parts laying around I would like to get rid of. All items are located in Dubbo NSW. Willing to post at buyers expensive. I will be attending World Time Attack on the 17th-19th Oct and can also arrange to bring any of the parts with me if a deposit it made. Stock R34 GTT coupe shocks, stock springs, AND King Springs (only replaced due to fitting coilovers) - $200 (no photo of standard springs) Stock R34 GTT coupe door trims (missing some parts - as pictured) - $50ono Stock R34 GTT coupe front brake rotors with all four stock brake lines (unsure of age - only replaced due to upgrade to slotted) - $30 Stock front and rear R34 GTT coupe swaybars (only replaced due to upgrade to larger) - $60ea or $100 for both The following is being removed from my car this week and will be available after this weekend. Pictures will be uploaded this coming Sunday. R34 GTT coupe RB25DET Neo Apexi Power FC with hand controller (only remove due to changing ECU) - $950ono Stock R34 GTT coupe RB25DET Neo Injectors (removed for upgrade) - $100ono Stock R34 GTT coupe RB25DET Neo air flow meter MAFM (removed only due to upgrade) - $50ono Stock R34 GTT coupe RB25DET Neo fuel pump - $30

Hi All, Brand new Z32 AFM incl Tomei plug. All brand new, refer to pictures! This was bought from JustJap Imports, so legitimacy of the AFM is not in question. I paid $330, so looking to get back at least $300. Will include Exp Post anywhere in Aus. Contact preferred via sms on zero four two one 1 2 1 eight one eight. Cheers, Andy

First checkout the link below for proof I'm an ebay POWER SELLER and can be trusted to post items: http://feedback.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=iphone.addiction&ftab=FeedbackAsSeller USED Z32 AFM / MAF from 300ZX VG30DETT N62 AFM Size 3" (80MM) Very common upgrade for SR20DET / CA18DET / KA24DE / RB25DET / RB26DETT / RB20DET / VG30DETT and many others. Good upgrade to measuring more air flow when stock AFM / MAF gives up, these are good for up to 500hp. Used but in very good condition, includes the rubber O-ring on the inlet side + Tomei Plug with loom. I've personally bench tested this AFM's before offering it for sale & if you need installation instructions I may be able to help. $200 Pick up from Wyndham Vale VIC & sometimes Dover Heights NSW Postage with Tracking $18 or with Signature $22 Contact Brett [email protected]

Images of AFM https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151595533982322.1073741827.549402321&type=1&l=70d9c55491 $150 CALL OR MESSAGE (prefered) ONLY 0431340469

KF95 model 100% Authentic Nissan Part Perfect Working Order Mesh intact Supports up to 350rwkw+ Suits 180sx, s13, s14, s15, r32, r33 ,r34 ,GTR's $200 Images https://www.facebook...=1&l=70d9c55491 ALL OR MESSAGE (prefered) 0431340469 ONLY

Factory R33 GTS-T AFM (green label) without robber seal on intake side $150ono R32 GTR digital clock $30 Genuine R32 GTR shift boot. Fairly good condition with all the clips. general wear and tear. $80 Genuine R33 GTS-T factory air box with snorkel $150 S15 airbox snorkel (no clips) $30