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  1. RB20 high RPM breakdown please help! Hi everyone, so I've got some issues with a project car I picked up and I'm hoping someone can help diagnose it with me, I'm well and truly out of ideas. So, I bought a super clean 180sx with an RB20 conversion. It was a non runner and I decided to do it up (why?! lol). Basically the car hadn't run for years. I compression tested it and that was fine, then realised there was no fuel at the filter, so I figured I'd buy it as it was likely a dead fuel pump. Long story short, the pump was messed up. I dropped the tank, drained it and did the following: Added a new Walbro 255 Got the injectors cleaned and flow tested (they were stuffed but came back to life and flowed almost identically). Sprayed some cleaner in the fuel rail and FPR. This got the car running. It wouldn't boost well so I thought the wastegate may have been stuck open (it had a high flowed T04 on it with a Nitto 40mm External gate). I took that off and found the gate was fine, but the turbo's rear housing had a crack in it and was no good, so I bought a T04E for it and had the dump pipe flange matched to the new turbo. The new turbo has a smaller CHRA than the old one. So I put it all back together last night and it's laggy but it wants to die high in the rev range from about 6,000 RPM. If I hold my foot into it, it will hesitate for a bit at that mark and then clean up and boost to 9,000. Now please, I realise RB's have a rev limiter. I'm not sure if the tachometer is accurate, it's likely out. So after that I went and bought a set of spitfire coils and I'm getting the exact same issue. Revs to mid-high RPM and as boost starts to really come in, it dies. The gauge only sees 3psi max. I've put a different gauge on to confirm this. So in summary: * New fuel pump * Injectors cleaned and flow tested * New fuel filter (admittedly I started the car with the old filter after I ran fuel through it into a bucket looking to clean the lines, bit of a brain fart but I doubt that hurt it) * New T04E turbo running gate pressure on the nitto external gate * New splitfire coil packs * New spark plugs BCPR6ES at .8mm So where I'm at now I'm just completely scratching my head. If it was the AFM I'd assume it would rev poorly throughout the rev range. I have a mate who says he had the same symptoms I'm having from an AFM, so I may change it. There's a ticking sound from the engine bay that I've isolated to be injectors/fuel pressure regulator. Could the fuel pressure regulator be shit? The injector guy told me it was working. It's just the stock one. The only other thing I can think of is the Walbro fuel pump is not getting enough power. I've checked it at idle and according to my multimeter it's getting 11.9-12-ish volts. Haven't done a voltage drop test yet. My thoughts are: Hard wire fuel pump to battery and just use a switch so it's got constant power. Add an adjustable FPR. Maybe switch igniter, AFM, etc. If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears and would really appreciate it. I've read a bunch of tech articles trying to chase this and I am 100% over it. I know it's something simple but it's eluding me. The only other thing I can think of is the turbo is too big for the fuel system but I doubt this is the case as I'm only seeing low boost and after the hesitation it goes for the last tiny bit of the rev range. Any help is greatly appreciated!
  2. I was having trouble with my R33 breaking down but only when I tried to run high boost (24 psi) Running at 12 psi it was smooth and faultless so I changed plugs, fuel filter and a few other things but nothing worked so I took it to Gavin wood and he said the coil packs were more than likely at fault. Rather then shelling out and purchasing another set of coils OR gaping my plugs down from 1.1mm to .6mm I did some more research and found some people in the UK were making up Acetal plates for mounting their coils too and this was solving a range of problems for people. The theory is that when your coils fail they are finding the easiest path to earth for the spark to travel OR when you are running boost over 1 bar the spark can be "blown out" basically so the simple fix is to get more powerful coils BUT If you think harder about the problem and rather than resorting to fixing a short with "more power" to make up for it, actually remove the path the short is going to take and you will find all your power will now go straight into your plug!! From the minute I started the car even driving round on 12 psi it felt so much crisper and more responsive, but the proof was being able to run 24 psi again revving clean and clear right to limiter. Acetal or Polyoxymethylene, is an engineering thermoplastic used in precision parts requiring high stiffness, low friction and excellent dimensional stability. All you have to do is trace your alloy ones onto the Acetal plate and you can then cut them out with a jigsaw and tap the holes. I made mine in house and would consider making up a run of these should people not wish to stuff around making their own and would rather to just purchase them. Hope this gives you guys another option to try at home when trying to sort out your misfires.
  3. Hi Guys, I had a search, but couldn't find this specific topic and if this is in the wrong sub-forum, mods please feel free to move it at your discretion thanks. As there are many Power FC models - I'm trying to get a breakdown of the way Apexi released their serial numbers. So far I have found: PFC RB26 XXX-XXX (Older Power FC's) PFC GTR33 XXX-XXXX (Standard Type - Less Recent) PFC GTR33L XXX-XXXX (For L-Jetro normal version Power FC) PFC GTR33D XXX-XXXX (For D-Jetro Type) Obviously PFC = Power FC RB26, GTR33, GTR33L, GTR33D = Car/Engine fitting type But what are the 3 and 4 digits after that? If anyone knows this information and what each bank/number signifies exactly or can shed better light on the topic would be much appreciated.
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