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Hi everyone, first time posting on this forum so take it easy. Without thinking i've removed the cam angle sensor of my neo without making any marks. And making it worse i've turned the engine over a few times with the sensor off. I was just wondering how serious this situation is? the pin/input shaft that going into the end of the cam shaft looks like it can only go in two ways. So is it a 50/50 change that it will go in the position that it was previously in before i took it out? or will it be 180 degrees out of its original position and will send the wrong signal to the ecu. how noticeable will the effects be if it were to be in the wrong position. will the fix be as easy as rotation the pin/shaft 180 degrees? Any help appreciated Thanks.

Been chasing an intermittent idle issue now for a while, and just got an ECUtalk lead and software for the laptop... Set it up in the car, found ignition timing was showing a solid 15deg at startup, but after about a minute or so running, timing started jumping around constantly between 0-10 deg on idle. Everything else was reading pretty steady apart from O2 voltage which i think is supposed to jump around between 0-1v and it was, so normal? Ignition timing held pretty steady when high in the revs apart from the occasional blip of a couple of degrees either way, but back to jumping all over the place between 0-10 as soon as the throttle is let off and back to idle. So is this pretty conclusive then, that the CAS is rooted? Or could it be just indicating something else to be checked, before I go spend a fair chunk of cash on a new CAS?

Hey i need the part number for the aluminum bracket that the crankshaft position sensor bolts on too, i have NISSAN FAST on my computer but can not locate it on that, i have an 1998 R34 25gt rb25de. Appreciate any help!!

hi - Pulled off my CAS to diagnose a no start problem and discovered a half broken splined shaft in it. I tried spinning the CAS shaft by hand but it seems siezed hence why it broke the spline. I had a look with the torch inside the exhaust cam where the CAS goes and noticed the other side of the broken spline shaft. I tried picking the broken piece with a pick tool but it wont budge.Not sure if it can. Could someone pls explain if that splined shaft is part of the Camshaft? Cause it doesnt appear part of the CAS. how do i replace it ? I hate to cough up on a new cam. cheers

i bought r34 tomei poncams cams because they wre cheap, so i decided to put them into my r32. was told they would work with a r34 CAS and abit of wiring work. got the car to start, it idled for about 1 hour, but when i turned it off it wouldnt start again. i cranks but wont turn over. HELP?! engine was just put in, not sure what to check. the reqirint work is simply reversing the wiring on the CAS plug. any information would be appreciated!!

Hi Guys, Seeing as when I run into a starting problem I try to get some info first, I thought I would post how I solved my no start issue for my R33 S2. The car is great, best I have had as it rarely runs into trouble and if it does it is usually responsive to the first thing I do I love her! Anyway, yesterday I got some fuel and went for a little drive. I turned the car off to run into the shop and when I tried to start her it was a slow start and died pretty much as the engine started. I tried a couple more times and would only keep cranking & cranking. Battery was good, got no codes from ECU, heard fuel pump prime and relay click etc. I was worried maybe fuel pump as I didn't really smell much fuel considering the cranking but that didn't end up being the case. Narrowed it down to CAS or AFM. I had a spare CAS so I unplugged mine and undid the three bolts and removed it taking note as best as I could of the bolt position. I put the spare CAS in and it seemed to fit easier and was easier to turn and adjust. Guessed the correct position, tightened bolts and plugged in and she started first go! I was having the occasional slow start which I have put down to being the CAS now as well. For the first minute it sounded like it had a slight miss but after a run that was gone and it sounds so much better than before and starts great. I also gave my AFM a clean just in case which helped also. Anyway, I hope this helps someone! Here is a pic of her with her new wheels. Emily

Hey i am looking to buy a broken CAS sensor, Part number: 23731 5l300. just needing the slotted disc on the inside as my current one is warped.

So I have an R34 GTT with many mods: Apexi PFC w/ commander/datalogit, GReddy Profec Type S EBC, GReddy Intake manifold and fuel rail, RC 1000cc injectors, Massive Precision Turbo, Tial WG, FMIC, HKS SSQV, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Wideband, 3" Turbo-back Apexi exhaust, NGK BKR7ES-11's regapped at .030. On to my problem...... I've had the car now for about a month and a half and have been constantly working out the bugs. First was a new center section for the turbo due to an apparently recent rebuild that didn't include a thorough hot tanking and left bits of metal shavings in the oil feed line that led to blown seals and bearings. Fortunately it doesn't seem to have harmed any other parts of the engine yet, I have ran several quarts of oil through in an effort to remove the machining leftovers. Next came proper PCV/ catch can installation and hose routing seeing as how it only had valve cover breather filters and an unhooked PCV valve, as well as an un-plumbed AAC valve that was sucking in unmetered air. Also replaced the O2 sensor and saw a dramatic increase in fuel mileage as AFR's. However, once all of these things were replaced and repaired I noticed that the car did not want to pull as hard as before and that even though the idle was more stable at 1000-1100rpms it did not want to stay running if I let it idle for too long. And as of now the car won't start at all. I've checked all of the usual suspects: AFM, New plugs AGAIN, no vac leaks, fuel pump is working great and have great fuel pressure. I am thinking it is my CAS, but not sure because if I take it out and spin it I can hear the fuel pump run and the injectors clicking. BUT when watching the FC Commander it only shows the car getting 4-7 degrees of timing under cranking. As well as when hooked up to Datalogit it wants to sit at 6000 load cell also while cranking. Im not sure why it is not getting more ignition timing while I am cranking it. My tuner is even scratching his head as to why the car won't start. Im guessing part of it is due to not being able to see the start up cranking ignition tables on the Datalogit screen and even by altering the whole map to 40 degrees it still only read 4-7 on the commander!?! Oh and the boost control kit setting is turned off as well as I have re-initialized the Com twice and re-loaded the map to no avail. Sorry for my super long first post on the site, but I am at my wits end on this one and USA forum support is a little lacking when it comes to this one. . Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

GOT few things dont ned since i sold my skyline 1- RB25 stock ecu , works for both series 1&2 only $30 great for diagnosing your car or going back to stock 1-RB25 crank angle sensor has a minor crack around the plastic conector but all pins are still straight nothing wrong with the unit itself works fine -$15 located in vermont south contact on 0432678853