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Found 11 results

  1. Hey all, desperately seeking help with a HICAS fault on my BNR34 V-Spec During the install of a new fuel pump, the car was moved without the ATTESA or HICAS computers plugged in. Since then it's had the HICAS light on the dash permanently. I've taken it to two places for diagnostics (including Nissan themselves) and they've both given the same error code, as attached; HICAS Error code 33: Engine speed signal Sadly, here in NZ pretty much everyone i've spoken to has said "We don't have a clue" This includes Nissan themselves (though they're happy for me to leave the car and a signed blank cheque with them ) and several performance shops. The obvious choice is to lock out HICAS BUT that's not really what i'm wanting to do as the system still works when in diagnostic mode. I've been in for a wheel alignment since but it's still not cleared Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  2. Hi All I saw some people asking for HICAS Removal Tutorial on the R32 whilst looking at the one for the R33. Here it is and hope it helps. I also hope I'm posting it in the right section as this one is on handling. Please move it to the correct ones if the Mods think fit. Removing the HICAS on an R32 is actually quite an easy job (as long as you have the right tools). I used a guide taken from the NissanSilvia.comforum. I chose this method because it means there is no capping of the hydraulic lines and no need to take the power steering pump apart - you simply need to get hold of a length of rubber hose and some jubilee clips. If you have an aftermarket exhaust (and maybe a standard one) you'll need to take off the piece that passes over the hicas bar at the back, otherwise it's impossible to get any movement with the 32mm spanner you need to use to undo the bar. It is recommended to WD40 the exhaust bolts some time before you start to save shearing any bolts! I haven't had the rear wheels aligned yet, but spent quite a while doing it by eye. Getting the wheels aligned properly is on my to do list... Needed: HICAS lock bar 50cm of 10mm (or 3/8" is a bit more common) ID hose. Transmission cooler hose works nicely 2x hose clamps 1L powersteering fluid Tools: 2x big shifters for tie rods or 32mm open ender 17, 21mm open ended spanner 10,12mm ring spanners (ratchet spanners really helpful) 14, 19, 21 and 24mm sockets. Hacksaw PS. Power steering fluid leaks everywhere, keep this in mind and keep some buckets, trays etc to catch it all - it makes cleaning up A LOT easier. Fitting the lockbar Firstly, put the lock bar on. To do this, take the tie rod boots off both sides (cut the wire/cable ties) and get your shifters onto these. Crack them and then start undoing the one that came loose. Keep going until you can slip your 17mm open ended spanner into the gap between the tie rod and the hicas rack. You will see a little stub between them, this stub has flat surfaces, get the spanner onto this to hold it by tightening the loose tie rod back onto it. You can now undo the other tie rod. Inside the hicas rack is a hollow bar that the tie rods screw into, if you just turn one without holding the other, both turn. Now that both are cracked, undo the rack from the car via the 2 19mm bolts above and the 2 brackets for the hicas lines (10mm). Once these are off, you can pull the rack away from the subframe a little and it makes getting the tie rods out of the rack a bit easier. Now just unscrew the tie rods. Get your lock bar and screw the tie rods into this while it is off the car. when both rods are all the way in, mount it back onto the car with the 19mm bolts and then tighten the tie rods (dont have to hold anything this time). Then slide the tie rod boots back over and use cable ties/wire to secure them. The HICAS is now locked mechanically and YOU WILL NEED A WHEEL ALIGNMENT. Removing rear-wards lines Now we have to worry about the hydraulics. You will currently have a big heavy rack dangling down, if you follow the lines to the front of the car a little you will see a small solenoid. Undo the 2 lines from this (21mm) and then you can remove the rack from the car. Next unbolt the solenoid from the car, there is a 10mm and a 12mm bolt holding it on. Follow the piping all the way up to the front of the car, removing the 10mm bolts and the piping from the clips on the way. Once you get to where the chassis rail curves up, you will see 2 high pressure connections. Hold onto one end (21mm) and undo the other end (17mm) and then you can pull the lines and rear solenoid from the car. At this stage, most of the stuff is gone, there is only the big solenoid at the front resting underneath the intake plenum and the problem of what to do with the power steering lines that used to go to HICAS. Looping lines If you look just in front of the engine cross member, you will see a few power steering lines (steel pipes). one of these goes into a high pressure fitting and then into the hicas solenoid. get a hacksaw and cut through this steel pipe, connect your hose onto it, hose clamp it and feed it up through the car. Now put the car down/get out from under it and look in the engine bay and find the solenoid (behind the battery and under the intake plenum, on your inner guard). In front of the radiator you will see a loop of aluminium on the left. this is your power steering cooler. Follow the two lines back into the engine bay and you will see that one goes into the solenoid and one goes back under the car (and back to the resevoir). On the line that goes back the solenoid you will see a short ~15cm long moulded rubber hose held on with hose clamps. take this off and then put your other hose that you just put on from the bottom onto the aluminium pipe, not into the solenoid, then hose clamp it. Now the rear stage of your power steering pump, which used to feed into the hicas and pump into the cooler aswell, only pumps into the cooler and then returns as normal. As there is no restriction from a solenoid or rack, only low pressure fittings have to be used. If you have any trouble getting the hoses onto the steel/aluminium pipes, just put the hose in boiling water and then try, should work. Now you can rip the solenoid out and the remaining lines. there are 2 14mm banjo bolts on top of the solenoid, undo these so you can seperate the lines from the solenoid which makes removal easier. You may also want to undo the 21mm banjo bolt on the bottom to disconnect the inlet to the solenoid, but you can just wiggle it out with it still attached. The solenoid then has 12mm bolts holding it in, 1 at the top and 2 at the bottom on either side (pain in the arse to get to). When they're off, wriggle the thing out. The remaining lines are held on by 2 10mm bolts and a 12mm nut at the bottom. Undo these and then wriggle them out again. HICAS warning light Many people have said that locking HICAS causes your steering to get heavy, but they simply haven't done it properly. There has been NO change in steering feel with any of the cars that I have done. The only problem is the fact that the HICAS warning light comes on (because it's not there...). This can be solved by cutting the warning sender wire on the HICAS computer or removing the warning light's bulb from the dash. I prefer to cut the wire as it's quicker, easier and if you for some reason lose power steering fluid, it will tell you when your resevoir is low. The HICAS computer is underneath the parcel shelf, it is to the right of centre (when looking in from the boot). Unplug the smaller of the two plugs in the back of it and then cut the green with white trace line wire. You can also just leave the smaller of the two harnesses out and it does the same thing, no ill effects and no HICAS light. All done There you have it, you have just removed your HICAS setup. Look in awe at all the useless weight that you just removed from your car. Of course, you could've just looped the lines at the back, but you will only save a bit of weight, or you can block the lines off but once again you wont lose any weight and you can destroy the rear stage of your pump which means new pump. CAN happen, not will, a lot of people have gotten away with this. Now fill the resevoir up with fluid and start the car, powersteering pump will probly make funny noises as its pumping a bit of air as well. Just keep turning the steering wheel lock to lock until the noise stops and have someone watching the resevoir and making sure it stays topped up. Any air that is left in there will come out over the next couple of days as the system gravity bleeds itself (resevoir is the highest point). Here's the pics I took from my own install... The HICAS lock bar installed : Remove the bit that was here (solenoid of some sort?) : You can see where the 2 hydraulic pipes have been removed along the length of the car : Bottom pipe here is the one that needs to be cut, that shiny bolt is the sump bolt : Taken from underneath the car, you can see the new hose being routed up to where the solenoid in the engine bay was : From the top of the car, this is where the hicas solenoid was. oil filter changes will be easy now!: And this is where the new hose fitted at the bottom should be routed to: This is in front of the rad behind the front bumper. doesn't look like much but that loop of pipe is the power steering fluid cooler :
  3. Hey guys, First time poster, so let me do the quickest intro ever and say I'm Josh, 24, from Western Sydney, just bought my first Skyline (an R32 GTST), previously a 300zx guy... Anyway, to the point, I was wondering if I could get some help/advice. I'm thinking that my Skyline may have a problem with the HICAS or something else steering-related. My steering wheel will be perfectly straight when driving at low speeds, say <50km/h. However, once I go a bit past this, the steering wheel will start to turn counter-clockwise. In other words, instead of the 12 o'clock position on the wheel being at 12 o'clock, it has now shifted to the 11, or even 10 o'clock position (whilst still going straight ahead). This is really uncomfortable and is quite a nuisance, especially when accelerating hard. Surely it's not normal? Can someone please give me some advice on what I should do? Will HICAS elimination fix this? Thanks in advance.
  4. Hi all, As the title suggest, I'm looking for a HICAS lock bar for an R33 series 2. Cheers
  5. Hey guys! I have a few sets of brand new alloys subframe collars for sale and a single brand new (black, very discreet, not YOLO Orange or anything) HICAS lock bar to suit an R32. Subframe Collars - $60 per set incl. free postage anywhere in Australia R32 HICAS Lock Bar - $80 If you are keen please contact me via PM and payment can be made in cash, via direct deposit or via Paypal (Paypal would incur an extra 5% to cover costs) Cheers! Hank
  6. Hi all, Just clearing a few bits and pieces that have been around in the garage for a while. These are all stock parts off an R33 GTS-T. Items are located in Artarmon NSW. Pickup only. HICAS Rack - $50 Stock Intercooler - $20 Rear Camber Arms (with Whiteline adjustable bushes in) - $20 Stock Wheels. The wheels are in excellent condition and just in need of a clean. Tyres included though they are very old but probably great for a skid pan day. - $100 PM me if interested. Cheers, David
  7. I recently imported an R32 Skyline GTR to the US and I am having some trouble with the HICAS (I assume). Since Skylines are still new to the US (only '89s and '90s are technically legal so far) I figured you guys might be a better source of information than most of the people local to me. The short version is: is it worth trying to troubleshoot a HICAS issue, or should I just get an eliminator kit? Does the HICAS provide any actual benefit? I understand what its purpose is, but I see mixed results about whether or not it is a good thing to have. A description of the HICAS issue I am having is below. If I accelerate hard to highway speeds (80+kph) while also turning (ex. using a circle on-ramp/interchange), the steering wheel will move off-center. Meaning the top of the steering wheel will be at the 11 o'clock position rather than 12 o'clock like normal. The car still seems to drive straight when that happens, just the steering wheel is no longer straight. After roughly 5 minutes or 10km, the HICAS light will turn on, and the steering wheel will automatically center itself again so the top of the wheel is at the 12 o'clock position and it will stay that way until I turn the car off. Also, any time I drive at highway speeds for 5 minutes or 10km the HICAS light comes on, regardless of whether or not the steering wheel goes off-center like in the situation described above. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Sorry if this has been asked before. I tried to search but didn't see any posts with a problem similar to mine.
  8. <p>Hi,</p> <p>My 1994 R32 GT-R has two possibly related problems. After driving for about five minutes the power steering basically shuts down and the steering is heavy as if it has no assistance, at about the same time the HICAS light comes on.</p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p>The power steering fluid level is normal as is the reservoir in the boot. My mechanic says the power steering pump is not showing any obvious signs of problems and the car is genuine low mileage and generally mechanically excellent.</p> <p> </p> <p>Any suggestions, before I take this to Nissan?</p> <p> </p> <p>Note that the steering returns to normal when you switch the car off and start again though I have not worked out how long it takes to "reset".</p>
  9. I know this issue has been done to death, but after hours of searching I haven't found a thread similar to my problem nor a solution. For the past few weeks (roughly the time that I've owned my GTR) I've noticed at random times my HICAS light will flash a couple of times and the steering will become hard and it will go away a few seconds after. It doesn't happen all the time, but it's intermittent. Today on the way back from the shops, the HICAS lights came on, my car stalled for a split second and came back to life. About a minute after same thing happened, but this time the car stalled and would not start. When I turned the key onto the ON position, I get no dash lights, the radio wasn't working and I had no Power Windows, no AC etc, but my hazzard lights and interior lights were working. After about 10 or 15 minutes on the side of the road, and after continuously trying to start the car, it managed to start again but stalled after 3 or 4 meters. I decided to remove the battery terminal and connecting it again and it managed to start. I managed to get it home with the HICAS light flashing every now and then and stalling one more time. Has anyone had this issue before or know what's happening? I really want to get the car fixed up asap as I need it to get to work. Thanks. Edit: Forgot to mention the car would not even crank. When I turn the key it was completely dead. Edit 2: The car is just on the driveway at the moment, and same issue. It will not start/crank. No dash lights etc. At least it's at home and not on the side of the road I guess..
  10. Hey guys, Cleaning out my garage and got a few bits. Located in Canberra/Sydney, shipping at own expense. 4 Stock 16" wheels + tyres, 2 new and two used with plenty of tyre left. - $150 Monza catch can. -$50 Turbo back stock exhaust system for s2 R33 (missing picture of catback piece). -$50 HICAS unit from R33 s2. -$20 Stock air box + filter from s2 R33. -$50 Make some offers!! Pm me or call/text, mob number is 0405 100 985. Cheers!!! George
  11. Hi All, I know all you guys usually remove your HICAS warning light from your cluster but that involves more effort. I have another quicker solution, and is 100% proven. On the HICAS ECU, there's a specific PIN for the dash warning light. All you need to do is snip it, easy as! How it connects up: ECU Schematics: So all you need to do it go cut PIN 15 on the HICAS ECU (larger one in the boot). PIN 15 is a GREEN WIRE with a WHITE STRIPE. You can locate it look at the backside of the harness, it's on the bottom row, 3rd pin from all the larger 4 wires. Bye bye HICAS light P.S. thanks http://www.theautomotiveindia.com for the images.
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