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Hi all, This is my first post but i have been a long time reader of SAU it has helped me out numerous times. However i have a problem that no one else has and was seeking guidance on how to go about fixing it. So in sydney been raining hard for the last couple of days so drive my stag to work all is fine, go to drive home strange things start to happen. So M35 is having electrical seizers and by that i mean when i turn the engine over the head lights start flashing the tacho bounces from 0 - 7k, the temp gauge goes hot to cold engine lights flash on and off, the indicators work intermittently the window wipers are the same. The car drives fine, seems to shift a bit rough but heres the weird thing everything works normal if you leave the car on battery and dont turn the engine on. Ok so the things i have tried to fix it checked codes 0000 reset codes disconnect the battery and unplug the ECU checked all the fuses every thing ok Im not that car savy so if you could point me in the right direction that would be great. Thanks

Hi to all I am new but have been reading for years.. 3...4 i think i want a skyline GT-R so bad but I am building a house, but i did add a 3rd garage i got a idea that’s been bugging me for a long time, is that i use google to find the post i wana read because i find it hateful using the forum tabs and nothing is organised can’t it be easy and have 5 tabs click on what series you have and then shows all your subcategories example: main forum page R31 R32 R33 R34 R35 Then once you click on your tab you get all you subs like mods, DIY, brakes, suspension.... like what we have now but would be nice to have a pre-subcategory main forum page. for idea of what I’m talking about look at: http://www.pradopoint.com/ see how they got 90, 120 and 150 it really nice and yes i do have a 150 series Prado that’s why i know about that site tell me what you think and maybe if we all put in our 2c we might get a change i hope

Hey i have just completed the RB25DET engine conversion into my r32 and am now need to get it engineered, but i have a 3" exhaust and a atmospheric BOV with custom pipes, so was wondering if anyone in the Forster/Taree/Great lakes area that have a stock exhaust, stock pipes and intercooler if i could borrow them so i can get my skyline tested and approved, any help would be appreciated! Thanks

hey guys just wondering where is a good place that dose guard rolling in perth as My tyres are getting chewed out every time i hit a bump.. or if some one has a guard roller and is willing to do a cashy

Hi guys, having trawled the internet for the past day this forum seems to be the most helpful so i figured i would give it a go posting here. I am having trouble with my 2002 RX250 (M35?) stagea. Twice in the 8 months i have owned it, it has felt like it was going to stall on me. Without moving my foot on the accelerator it has surged and then dropped off. Both time this happened was as i was pulling out of my driveway and up the hill i live on so the car was cold both times. On both occasions the check engine light has come on. The first time the car would not start for about 2 hours, the second time which was only yesterday it didn't actually stall and i was able to drive home no problem however the check engine light is still on. From what i can tell (i only found out about the ECU fault codes reading the forum today) it is coming up with a 0340 code (i will upload a video of the light blinking to YouTube later if anyone doesn't think this would be correct). As i didn't know that i could check the codes myself i had no reason not to believe the garage who serviced it (part of the second hand dealership i purchased it off) when they told me that there was nothing physically wrong with the car and that sometimes gremlins like this occur and that it would probably never happen again. It was within the warranty period last time it happened but its not this time. I am taking it to them in 2 hours to get them to look at it again, if they tell me that there is nothing wrong again is this likely? Or is there an issue here that needs to be addressed before it causes any major damage? Any advise on what i should do from here?

So i just bought my first turbo car (R32 GTS-T M Spec) I chose one thats almost completely stock. I've done my research to have enough knowledge but i was wondering if any of you could help me with what i should do first? I was thinking a boost controller, turbo timer, something along those lines.. If anyone has the time to help me out with this i will be very grateful.. Yes i know this is a very noob thread you don't have to tell me. Thanks!

I Recently buggered my fuel pump running my car out of fuel (what a dickhead!!) after fitting my factory replacement i started and warmed the car no problems but when i went to start it the next day i had nothing at all no dash lights the fuel pump wasnt priming up nothing at all. since then i have pulled off the lines at the secondary fuel filter in the engine bay and disconnected the battery a hundred times and it seems when i do it in the right order i can get it to prime the fuel pump once again however as soon as i switch the car off again i get nothing. i have had it running again since and even took it for a drive and did not skip a beat. i've checked all the fuses and what not multiple times and there is nothing wrong with them. PLEASE HELP I have been at this for 2 weeks now and absolutely cannot figure out what the heck is wrong!!

Hi I know this has probably been covered before but I'm a noob to the forums and am having trouble sifting through all the threads. I have a 1996 R33 gts25t ecr33 and want to remove my hicas but not just use a hicas lock bar as I require I cert for this and can get around this if I just swap the frames. I need to know what sub frames are a straight swap with my car ? Any help would be very appreciated thank you

Hey i need the part number for the aluminum bracket that the crankshaft position sensor bolts on too, i have NISSAN FAST on my computer but can not locate it on that, i have an 1998 R34 25gt rb25de. Appreciate any help!!

Hey Guys, So I've searched the forums for similar issues and haven't been able to find much information. I'm currently trying to fit a set of 18x11 +20 Concave Concepts to my Gts-t and have purchased and installed a set of Front Upper Camber Arms to try and pull them in a little as they poke on my Gts-t guards quite a bit as pictured. Although since doing so have run into a few problems. 1. After adjusting the camber it looks as though the wheel sits further back inside the arch towards the back of the car and is now rubbing quite heavily against the guard/sideskirt mount when turning. (I'm thinking caster arms will fix this as I assume the caster is all out of whack) 2. After adjusting the camber the inside of the wheel looks like its sitting over the coilover (above the lock collar for the base and below the lock collar for the spring) and over hard bumps the coilover compresses and hits against the inside of the rim. 3. At full lock, or close to, the inside of the rim rubs up against the upper wishbone and makes a horrid grinding noise (I have since notched out the wishbone but apparently not enough because it still does it) I tried fitting a set of 7mm slip on spacers to fix the issue but they pull the wheels out a little too far and create all kinda of rubbing issues on the guards. Has anybody had any similar issues, or have any constructive suggestions/can help at all? Thanks.

Hey guys, just bought some ENKEI RPF1 18x9.5 +38 all around to find they don't fit on the front but fit perfect on the back. The back of the wheel is scraping against the front brake calipers stopping the wheel from rotating. I tried 8mm spacers, still wasn't enough. Tried 20mm bolt on spacers and that poked WAY too much it looked ridiculous. No idea what to do at this point. I really don't want to sell them as it will be such a hassle to get new ones etc. any suggestions?

Hello, if you can reframe from pointing out my ignorance that would be great, but some help as to how i adjust the height on my adjusties would be very much appreciated! I under stand they are not *body adjustable* which seems to be the only type of adjustable suspension that has tutorials on the inter weds showing how to adjust them, so I'm a little bit stuck. thanks.

Iv got a 98 model r33 gtst and suddenly this afternoon i noticed my brake lights came on and stayed on even when the car is completly off. Only way to get them to turn off is disconnecting the battery. Please Help

Hello, so I've had BLITZ/BC coilovers for bit over a year not really liking the ride comfort on the street, it's not that bad on good roads but the roads I'm on are shit house and feel a coilover doesn't have the suspension travel that is needed for a street setup plus the springs are a little to hard and I'm Bit of a wuss and don't see the race track a lot. So I am looking at going back to a shock and spring set up, I know bilstein set up is awesome but when said and done it's $1500+. Is there any decent shock and spring setup for <$1100ish not looking to go retarded low just a nice legal setup for street driving with the odd drag/ track day? Also has anyone heard of KYB special for street shocks would these be bad for Australian roads? Thanks

Hi, not sure if this has been discussed but i'll post anyway. I'm in the middle of deciding on a set of coilovers and for price i've come down to BC RS Series or the Slide Industries brand. I've seen a lot of good reviews for the BC but i can't find anything on the Slide ones. I've got an R33 so if anyone knows or has used either coilover it'd be good to hear about it. Cheers.

So when i bought my R32 GTS-T the guy told me he was only running stock boost, i had alot of questions for him and it slipped my mind to ask him how much stock boost is on the car.. Would anyone know? I've tryd to google it but it only comes up with GTR's. And how much boost is safe to run on a stock RB20DET engine? Is there any chance of me being able to wind it up abit with minimal supporting mods? Not talking 18 or anything.. But maybe 8-10? Thanks for once again putting up with one of my stupid threads. I'm getting there i swear!

Hey guys, Long time lurker. Before you read this thread, please play this in the background. I've recently done some damage to my ol' R32 and she's a little worse for wear. After a couple years of incident-free fun with her I've dun goofed. Long story short, went into a corner too hot and smacked a gutter. Here's some pics: I'm hoping someone out there could: a) Let me know what damage I may have done here besides the obvious. b) How hard these parts are to get, what they'd cost and how difficult you think they are for an amateur to fix (I've replaced a turbo myself, any more difficult probably couldn't do). c) If there's someone you could recommend in Sydney to repair and approx cost? I know I'm an idiot (let's skip that), I also know you can't possibly know all potential damage without inspecting. With that said, I would REALLY appreciate some advice, especially from people experienced with similar damage. Any help would be great, thanks in advance. Josh.

So I recently had some stuff done to my R33, the 30 amp ignition fuse got blown so we swapped the 30 amp LSD fuse with it so the car could at least be started. At this time the Hicas fuse was also removed. After all the work was said and done I attempted to take the car for a drive, I noticed it was in limp mode and left it where it was. All 30 amp fuses have been replaced along with the Hicas fuse being replaced. I did a bit of googling and came with the fact that it could be the transmission output speed sensor. Does anyone know where that is in a Series 1 R33 ? If it isn't that what could have been the cause of the sudden limp mode and how can I get it out of it? Much Appreciated for any help received.

So I recently installed an Power FC into my 1996 R33 GTR V-Spec, works like a dream. I was driving it home from the tuners and started to get a little load in the wet, it was normal so I kept on going. The next day when I went to reverse the car there was a ton load in the transfer case and the front Torque gauge was sitting on 30! So put the car up on stands and sure enough the car was locked in 4wd. When I disconnected the pump at the connector and bled the actuator at the back of the transfer, it allowed the front wheels to turn on their own, so transfer case and hydraulics work. The cylinder also moved fine. So summary is that the ATTESA system will pressurise, causing the transfer case to engage, but will not depressurise, causing it to stay locked in 4wd. There was no warning light on the dash. Bleeding the system causes the transfer case to disengage. I have done some searching and ruled out the following: The tires and wheels are the same diameter with similar wear. The system is pressurising so the pump is fine. I checked the plugs that connect the pump to the loom and they were fine, no corrosion. Transfer case is working, so haven't cooked the clutch pack. Any solutions or if anyone else has had this problem please let me know. Thanks Shaun

Hello Guy/Girls . I am New here First Post . i Have a Beautiful Silver Skyline R33 GTS-T sitting on some Awesome 18''Crome's , i have only done interior work eg Alpine set up DVD 6 stacker,TV monitor, Front and Rear Speakers & just a Pod filter with heat cover. I would really appreciate some help on what i should look at first'LIST 1-10' to get some more power out of my skyline. not looking a spending a house on my car so please no ridiculous 30 grand upgrades lol Thanks you in advance. Patrick

Hey guys I am new here and fairly new with turbo modifications, blow off valves . I Have a Nissan Skyline r33 25GTS-T 1995 completely stock besides a pod filter and cosmetic upgrades. When changing gears it goes Vvruum tushh , but I want it to do the classic awesome sound Vrumm tush tush tush ... Sorry if I sound silly hard to explain , how can I get this ? Do I need to boost my car ? Upgrade blow off valve ? Also my blow off valve is plumb back

Hey Everyone, Just recently purchased an R32 sitting on Greddy Type S coilovers, the ride hieght is set for 16's, and I didnt receive any of the tools needed... Does anyone know the sizes of these C spanners? or can point in the right direction to getting a replacement pair n what not? Cheers Teddy

Need some info from the RB30 Guru's. RB30 pistons in RB25 block? Does it work! Compression good? Anyone done this before and having no issues? Reason i want to do this is because my pistons on my RB25 are cracked and we got loads of R31 skylines here in South Africa so the RB30 pistons are cheap and readily available. Where as the RB25 is a import motor for us and parts/spares are expensive! If you guys could be of assistance that would be legendary! Thanks!

Hi just wondering if anyone can help me, i have an r33 gtst s2 with gtr front guards and bonnet and stock suspention, i found these wheels i love but not sure if they will fit they are work xd9's 18x10 all round iv been told they will fit but just wanted to make sure befor i order from ebay. thanks in advance for your help. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WORK-WHEELS-XD9-SKYLINE-GTR-R33-BCNR33-R34-BNR34-NISSAN-18X10-18-BRONZE-MHG-/300776905564?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4607b35b5c#ht_2953wt_1163

I am looking for a tuning map for a R33 GTR running a Apexi Power FC. Will be using a laptop for the tunning. My GTR has had the following installed: Garret 2860-7 with HKS Actuators 9:1 CP Pistons 4 inch exaust from the Cat Its running stock injectors, fuel pump ect. I am just looking for a map that has the correct details to work from, obviously every car is different and needs fine tuning. I have searched SAU and while there are some great tips (Looking at you Paul), I haven't found any actual map files. Any help would be appriciated.