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How to Install Do-Luck Ignition Harness for R33 GTR. 　 Tools Needed: 4mm Allen Key for Valley Cover Pliers for Blow By Hose's 8mm Socket 10mm Socket 12mm Socket 14mm Socket for Strut Tower Bar Ratchet with short extension Step 1: Once Strut Tower bar is removed, Use a 4mm Allen Key to remove the 8 bolts from the Valley Cover. Then use pliers to move the clip down the hose of the blow by hose. Step 2: Then use a 8mm socket to remove the transistor earth cable, Once that is Done remove the Connector off the transistor unit. Step 3: Remove Valley Cover and Unplug Coil Harness Transistor Connector. Next Remove the 6 Coil Pack Connector. Step 4: Use a 10mm socket with short extension to remove the Coil Pack Harness Earth Cable Step 5: Remove the Intake Side Blow-By Hose and then Unplug Connector. Now you can remove the whole Coil Pack Harness. Old OEM Harness Removed Step 6: Installing the Do-Luck Harness, There are 3 parts to this: The Harness, Earth Cable and Direct Power Feed with Extension Cable. First sit the Do-Luck Harness in place and connect the harness earth cable and the Thick Blue Earth Cable to the same coil harness earth point. ( Behind Coil Pack Number 6 ). 　 　 Next there is a Connector on the end of the Do-Luck Harness this connects near the intake side blow-by hose. Once that is done connect all the coil pack connector’s on. Step 7: Connect the Thick Blue Earth Cable anywhere in the engine bay. I connected mine near the ABS system. Step 8: Connecting the Direct Power Feed with Extension Cable. First Connect the Extension Cable to the end Coil Pack Harness once that is done connect the other end to the direct power feed unit. Step 9 Connect the Direct Battery Feed Unit to the relay box as shown in the photo below and then connect the Direct Battery Feed Unit Earth to either one of theses Earth points shown in the photo below. Now it all Connected Up double check that everything is connected and then reconnect all the transistor plugs and transistor earth point. Then reinstall Valley Cover and Tower Strut Bar. Step 10: Everything is DONE!! Start it up and take it for a spin. Results: When I started the car up the exhaust tone changed and then I gave it a few revs 3000- 4000 rpm and it wasn’t backfire anymore. Next I took it for a 15min drive up to 7000 rpm and it wasn’t backfiring under boost as it did sometimes. More testing is required to see if it has removed the under 3000 rpm Miss problem and Backfiring under boost problem. I will keep everyone posted on further result’s but so far I’m happy with the Result.

Hi Guys, I have a frustrating problem, currently I am trying to hardware the fuel pump. I currently have a switch that is wired to my battery that turns the ground on and off. Now I have finished hardwiring my pump through an additional relay now what happens I will list below: 1. When I have the key set to ignition and the ground switch off the battery is turned on the fuel pump turns on via the new relay for 5 seconds and then switches off (normal) 2. Power is remaining on I switch the ignition off pull the key out, put it back on and turn it to ignition and it won't ignite fuel pump for 5 seconds. Now as long as I have key in the ignition position as noted in step 1 when I turn the ground switch on for power the fuel pump will prime for 5 seconds as required no matter what. Can any body shed some light on what needs to be done ? Or had the same issue. Thanks

I recently bought a Do-Luck Ignition Harness Kit with Direct Battery Feed for a 1995 R33 GTR, It came with instructions but in japanese. I'm having trouble on where to connect some of the wires. In the photo above, The greenline is what I know should go together but the white lines I'm not sure where to connect them to. Above is the Direct Battery Feed Cables I think I need to connect these's cables from the fusebox back to the coil pack earth point but not sure? Note the cables are only about 1m long. Any help would be greatly appreciated

So I have an R34 GTT with many mods: Apexi PFC w/ commander/datalogit, GReddy Profec Type S EBC, GReddy Intake manifold and fuel rail, RC 1000cc injectors, Massive Precision Turbo, Tial WG, FMIC, HKS SSQV, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Wideband, 3" Turbo-back Apexi exhaust, NGK BKR7ES-11's regapped at .030. On to my problem...... I've had the car now for about a month and a half and have been constantly working out the bugs. First was a new center section for the turbo due to an apparently recent rebuild that didn't include a thorough hot tanking and left bits of metal shavings in the oil feed line that led to blown seals and bearings. Fortunately it doesn't seem to have harmed any other parts of the engine yet, I have ran several quarts of oil through in an effort to remove the machining leftovers. Next came proper PCV/ catch can installation and hose routing seeing as how it only had valve cover breather filters and an unhooked PCV valve, as well as an un-plumbed AAC valve that was sucking in unmetered air. Also replaced the O2 sensor and saw a dramatic increase in fuel mileage as AFR's. However, once all of these things were replaced and repaired I noticed that the car did not want to pull as hard as before and that even though the idle was more stable at 1000-1100rpms it did not want to stay running if I let it idle for too long. And as of now the car won't start at all. I've checked all of the usual suspects: AFM, New plugs AGAIN, no vac leaks, fuel pump is working great and have great fuel pressure. I am thinking it is my CAS, but not sure because if I take it out and spin it I can hear the fuel pump run and the injectors clicking. BUT when watching the FC Commander it only shows the car getting 4-7 degrees of timing under cranking. As well as when hooked up to Datalogit it wants to sit at 6000 load cell also while cranking. Im not sure why it is not getting more ignition timing while I am cranking it. My tuner is even scratching his head as to why the car won't start. Im guessing part of it is due to not being able to see the start up cranking ignition tables on the Datalogit screen and even by altering the whole map to 40 degrees it still only read 4-7 on the commander!?! Oh and the boost control kit setting is turned off as well as I have re-initialized the Com twice and re-loaded the map to no avail. Sorry for my super long first post on the site, but I am at my wits end on this one and USA forum support is a little lacking when it comes to this one. . Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Brand new - This ignition system will allow you to run much higher spark plug gaps under high boost without spark blowout. This will give more power due to a cleaner burn and give a much better idle and low down power. Includes harness for S13/S14 for straight plug and play and universal harness for other cars. Part Number: 43001-AK001 Location: Sydney East, Postage available Price: $500 Preferred Contact: PM or Reply here Reason for Sale: Sold car before got chance to install. The HKS Twin Power ignition amplifier incorporates both the CDI and transistor method ignition to provide optimum spark duration and maximum voltage output, resulting in crisper throttle response and a smoother engine power band. The CDI method, capacity discharge ignition, provides maximum voltage by transferring all stored energy in the capacitor to the ignition coil so that the ignition current can build-up quickly, thus making the Twin Power very effective in the higher revs where a normal spark would tend to diminish. This strong rapid spark prevents the high rpm ignition miss that reduces peak power. The transistorized method generates high voltage by using transistors to cut off current to the coil, thus allowing for a long energy discharge. This longer spark duration allows the Twin Power to improve lower RPM throttle response and torque. The combination of the CDI and the transistor method incorporates two distinct systems into one high performance unit, hence the designation of Twin Power. Expect a spark output that is typically 1.5-2.5 stronger than that of the stock ignition system! Each compact and attractive Twin power unit is constructed of durable anodized aluminium and sealed to prevent corrosion from moisture.