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  1. Hello fellow Skyline owners! I’ve had my car in the garage for 6 months now, during winter time. Before I put it off I had the car remapped. During the mapping session the car suffered from intermittent missfires on higher rpm. Then when I was done and started the car to drive home the car only ran on 5 cylinders. We did some fault searching, narrowed it down to cylinder 3. Then all of sudden after we swaped coilpack 3 & 1 around, it worked again. The coilpacks used at the time were Splitfires (5 years old). One of the things I wanted to do was to upgrade the ignition system, so I did. I Installed VR38 smart coils. Also swapped out the sparkplugs (ngk bcp7res) gapped at 0.7mm. This is when I found out that all of my old sparkplugs were very black and a bit wet. I originally thought this was a tuning or fuel realated issue since it was affecting all the of the cylinders. This week I started her up. after about 40 minutes of total running (idle) I removed to check my new plugs.. All the sparkplugs have what looks like fresh engine oil on them. The threads are clean, just on the base and half around the center electrode, just as the previous ones too had. Earlier sparkplugs i’ve had replaced has never looked like this and I find it odd that it’s like this on all the plugs. Do you guys have any ideas what would cause all the cylinders to have oil in them all of sudden? 🤔 Will upload a picture so you can see too. The car is a R33 RB25DET Car has uprated turbo,injectors,maf,ebc.. Running a apexi power fc. Unopend engine. Done about 90000km
  2. Hi guys, I just came across a complete front subframe assembly for an r34, the title of the ad just says r34 so I’m presuming it’s a coupe. I have an R33 at home and was wondering if the r34 front subframe assembly will bolt straight into the r33. Im looking to do this with relatively little modification of its needed, also does anyone know if it will throw off the geometry of the car or if it’s okay to be doing this. Thank you very much if you’s can help guys .
  3. Hello. I bought myt skyline 4yrs ago. First I drove it thru winter (surprisingly good winter ride). At the spring stock turbo waste got stuck. Car was 3 months in the carage. I put kinuqawa bolt on turbo and cheap low mount exhaust manigold. It was rest of the summer this way. Then I planned to do some little changes at the winter. But as many of you know things start to get bigger. I start building rollcage and strip whole car down. When car was tripped it would be stubid not to do some things like stich weldin and sandblasting the body etc. I also wanted to do some wisual mods and strip everything extra weight out from the body. Rollcage caused some changes also. Like stock heater system is not fitting anymore. Rear subfame and diff bushes changed to aluminium. Rear and front subframes and stock controll arms got some extra strenght also. Bash bars in front and back wore made from scratch. Now car is going back to gether slowly and I hope to get it done before 2030 ? Here is some picks of it. More you can see from my ig @nuut3ro
  4. I’m curious that no one has developed a drop-in 6 Speed synchro gearset for the standard R32 & R33 gearbox. I would imagine that there is a market for strong street gearbox with the Getrag ratios and maybe the Carbon Fibre syncros that are now available. PAR used to do a straight cut dog 6-speed gearset but no longer offer this product. Im interested if there are reasons it hasn’t been done before wether it’s space related or something I’m ignorant of. Seeing so many Getrag conversions are in 32’s and 33’s these days I would see a drop in gearset as being and attractive option to keep the modifications to minimum. Happy to hear all thoughts in this one. Cheers.
  5. Hello Thought I’d take time share with you my GTR. I’ve been a member on SAU since the early days – April 2002. Started on here as a young guy in my early 20’s – just sold my VP HSV and was looking to buy a R33 GTSt which were just starting to be sold at the yards around that time. After owing the GTSt, I moved onto Supras, Evo’s and various R33 and R34 GTR’s over the last 10 years. Although I loved the 2JZ Supras – the car that I always loved the most and always gives me the best memories – was my 2001 R34 GTR V Spec II. 2001 GTR V Spec II 1998 GTR Supra 2010 Shelby GT500 Being without a GTR for a number of years I decided I would start quietly keeping an eye out in Japan for my next car. I am very particular about my cars – extremely fussy – so I was in no rush – browsing the yards in Japan is half the fun. I was after a car in Japan – I had to be first owner in Australia. I was after a quality modified car – standard or near standard cars was not an option – as had many and I was looking for something more hardcore. Wanted a car built in Japan, of the highest quality, genuine low km, etc etc. This car would be a keeper – something I will spend time in with my sons, enjoy, etc. I was actually looking for a 34 …. when I received an email from Global Auto in Japan (where I had purchased the Autoselect R34 GTR the week before)…….. Details of Vehicle of emailed to me from Global Auto ... 1997 R33 GTR V Spec Series 3 50000km 87o N1 piston Cylinder head surface training positive processing Engine block boring, honing surface Modification to crank, Konrod weight adjustment NISMO metal head gasket N1 Oil Pump N1 Water Pump TRUST Aluminium Pulley Kit TRUST T78-33D Turbine Kit TRUST Exhaust Manifold TRUST Racing Westgate TRUST Fuel Delivery Line TRUST 3 Layer Intercooler TRUST Intercooler Piping TRUST 16-stage Oil Cooler TRUST Aluminium Radiator TRUST front pipe TRUST TR Power Evolution muffler TRUST sequential 6-speed transmission TRUST PROFEC boost controller TRUST turbo timer TRUST boost gauge HKS super power flow reloaded Ted NISMO Fuel Pressure Regulator NISMO Large Capacity Fuel Pump BILLION silicon radiator hose SARD 650cc fuel injector Aluminium Suction Pipe Apexi N1 suspension OS GIKEN twin plate clutch OS GIKEN lightweight flywheel WINMAX brake pads AMKREAD AM-1 18-inch wheels POTENZA 275/35-18 tire HKS F-CON V-PRO NISMO 320km full scale meter NISMO-dash triple meter N1 bumper duct Pictures as sent to me from Global Auto... Just arrived at their yard – before they put it for sale would I be interested. Upon looking at the pictures and quick call to check over some details – I purchased it immediately. When bringing the car to Australia – I decided to ship the GTR directly to GT AUTO in Brisbane. As I’m in Perth – I entrusted Tim and Dave to look after the car for me - service, minor upgrades and tuning needed to be done. I cannot speak highly enough of the boys at GT Auto in Brisbane – who took nothing but amazing care of my car. Whilst at GT Auto - some of the improvements to the car I have made ... * HKS FCONV V-PRO ECU * HKS EVO6 Boost Controller * 1000CC Injectors * RADIUM Surge Tank with Twin External Pumps Bracket * E85 Fuel Line and Fittings * HKS Cam Gears * New NPC Twin Plate Custom Clutch 1000HP * Nitto Clear Cam Cover * Garage Defend C/F Cooling Panel * Tinted Windows * Polished Intake Plenum * New N1 Water Pump * Dyno Tuning GTR whilst at GT AUTO ... Results were 667HP at All 4 Wheels (497kw @ Wheels) Dyno Video --> https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10203435806553168&set=vb.75231026522&type=2&theater Now at home in Perth with me .... AUTO SELECT Strut brace added. Braided Hoses replaces clear plastic. I will continue to update this topic to share with you my experiences - and keep a history of my GTR. Thank you for reading. Daniel
  6. i am looking for the OEM cassette head unit that came in the R33. i'm in north america, please let me know if you have one to sell that is in proper working order. cheers.
  7. I need help with what I should do with my diff it’s a Active LSD with a altessa pump system. It singles and I want to to double what can I do with this diff bleed it, weld it, get it shimmed, block off the altessa system? Idk what to do please help as I want to use my car for drifting / road use
  8. Hie skyline enthusiast! The names Sean and im from Malaysia. Been lurking in the forum for a while now, just decided to create a topic to share with you guys regarding my project and updates. A teaser of my car just out from paint.
  9. Hi all, The black paint on my r33 has been peeling. Can anyone please recommend a reputable paint shop in Sydney where I could get a respray. I'm not keen on doing a backyard job to fix it up. As a side note, roughly how much percentage value do you reckon the car would lose due to peeling paint such as this? Cheers
  10. i have a question on an engine swap and i cant seem to find anything related to it so i thought id come here, so i wanna put a worked 304 fuel injected 5ltr v8 into my r33 series 2 gtst. all i want to know is will the old v8 fit into the engine bay without having to modify it heavily?
  11. Hello. Recently picked up an R33 GTST, S1.5, and I am very worried about the timing issues. The car ran rich when I got it, which was fixed by adjusting the TPS to correct voltage, but the idle seemed a little off still. I took it and got it retuned, as the last tune was very old and outdated. The car made 425 RWHP on a hub dyno, at 15 PSI. Tuned on Apexi Power FC and a GT3582. The car has very little knock on the hand controller, and seems to run fine. The tuner said however he had to advance the timing a massive amount, and believes the ECU is misreading timing, and it is an ECU fault. The timing degrees is at mid to high 20's under full boost, which seems very high. Again, low knock (under 30) on Power FC sensor. It was running similar timing to this for the last 7-8 year apparently, and had a very similar ignition map on the old tune. What's the go with this? How can I get the timing to a 'normal' level? Has the belt slipped? CAS failed? I am concerned the Power FC knock reading is inaccurate and I don't want this car to explode, as Covid tax meant this was not a cheap buy! Cheers all!
  12. Hi everyone, I hope everyone is having a good day as a skyline owner ( or enthusiast) I am having a very difficult time with my cluster at the moment. Here are a list of sections to my predicament: - None of the gauges work (except the turbo gauge I think) - The lights on the cluster will light up (handbrake light, check engine, battery etc. when I stall) but are not on regularly - I have sent the cluster to a specialist in the Eastern Melbourne suburbs. He took it all apart and said he could not see any issues with it - I have sent the car to the Auto Electricians in the Eastern Melbourne suburbs too, they had a look at the wiring and said they could not find anything wrong either - The car does not have a Speed Transducer in the car at the moment. I have bought one but have not yet fitted it. This leads to my questions. If I replace the speed transducer, will this fix the rest of the issues on the cluster? I was hoping that it maybe completed some form of a circuit for everything? Could it be the ECU? as far as I know I am still running the stock ECU
  13. Hey guys and girls I have been looking into fitting a T56 6 speed manual gearbox or TR606 to my R33 GTR I have carried out allot of research I have found out RWD conversions are possible and have been done but no one has done a AWD conversion that I have been able to find. I think this could be a viable and cost effective option for people who are looking for a quiet street able gearbox which is capable of handling high HP. Now the cost for a setup like this could range from $6000 to $8000 that is a estimate at this stage the first unit would more than likely be more expensive but with more interest these costs could fall The T56 Magnum would probably be the gearbox of choice as it is the strongest syco box they do Able to withstand a massive 700 lb-ft. of torque while providing unbelievably crisp shifts, no other manual transmission on the planet offers as much combined strength, versatility, and general ease-of-use as the T-56 Magnum. Known in its original equipment form as the 'TR-6060', the Magnum is an aftermarket version of the same transmission found in many of today's most celebrated factory super cars – including the ZR1 Corvette and ACR Viper – giving you refinement where you want it and strength where it counts. Other positives about these gearboxes are gear sets PPG have dog configurations and sequential setups for the more hardcore drivers. I personally wouldn’t see the point all you would do is fit a PPG setup to the factory 5 speed. The bell housing is also allot larger this may offer GTR owners more clutch options more surface area and the possibility to run a nicer street able clutch (sprung centre) The biggest positive is retaining the 4WD and for me that the game changer. This isn't set in stone as yet, I am looking for advice and wisdom there is a huge amount of knowledge on this forum and would love to hear your thoughts and comments thanks for your time Frosty
  14. Hi guys, I have a problem. First of all I do have a Twin plate clitch in my r33 gtr. When pressing the clutch pedal it make some rattling noise, after reading and gathering some info this is considered as normal with those type of clutches? The bigger problem is that my gearbox sometimes gets stuck in 1st gear when im stopping with the clutch fully pressed it still wants to go forward. Also its really hard to change gears sometimes. I ve done an gear box oil change and bleeded the clutch line (both damper and slave cylinder). Nothing helped. I would need some advice where too look at next. Could it be that my clutch pedal needs to be adjusted? (clutch feels heavy but normal and the point where it grabs is late) Please give me some advice :) BR
  15. I'm looking to modify my headlights I simply cant (or at least cant find anywhere on the internet or modification shops) modify my ichikoh 1535 headlights as they have a ribbed lenses and its not legal to do anything in NZ with headlights without doing the whole lot to suit said change. long story short i want to know if 1533 clear headlights fit in the place of 1535 headlights
  16. Hi, My stock fuel pump was making a hell of a noise so I got a Walbro GCA3386-2 (255LPH) The mounting is different from stock. With this the strainer attaches directly to the pump while the stock pump sits about half way down the mounting bracket with a pipe to the strainer at the bottom. So with this the pump has to be mounted at the bottom of the bracket. Not sure what is the cause but on boost the car is running very lean. AFR is showing 18:1 On normal driving its fine. The car has a Haltech fitted. Am I supposed to get it remapped after fitting the pump? Do i need to change the FPR from the stock one?
  17. Steve's R33 LM Limited Upkeep Hi all, I've been stalking these pages for a quite a long time now. Thought i should throw my car up for everyone to look at. Some of you will be familiar with this car already as I purchased it from Gav in Perth. Gav had this car built by Glavsport and it has been a no expense spared build. With that in mind I too have decided to buy things once and any changes that go onto the car will be the highest quality I can reasonably manage. You may be aware that my start with this car was somewhat turbulent as someone tried to steal it from me on the first day I drove it. (See link: Steve's Intro ). Since then I have hidden the car away under lock and key (and other security measures). The car has just returned to me now from Racepace in Bayswater. We (well, not really we, more the guys at Racepace) made some changes to my car, repaired the damage from the break in and installed a new immobiliser and tracker. It's nice to have the car back in one piece and using a key to start it, rather than any flat item jammed into what was left of the ignition. One of the biggest issues I was having was fumes coming into the cabin from under the bonnet/car. It turned out to be a twofold issue. 1. The exhaust was pinched and suffering from E85 damage (it was a 3" mild steel exhaust) 2. The oil catch can breather may have been letting fumes into the air vents for inside the car. The guys at Racepace have fabricated and installed a brand new 3.5" exhaust with V-Bands and tuned length headers to solve the exhaust problems and they also rerouted the catch can fumes into the rear turbo so they are expelled through the exhaust. With the new exhaust it was necessary to re-tune the car on the dyno so this was also completed. As someone who doesn't get to drive fast cars much, millions of kWs were deemed unnecessary. I asked the guys specifically if they could turn the engine down to a level it will be happy to perform at for a long, long time. In tuning the car the guys turned the engine up to what they deemed a reasonable level, then turned it back down as I requested. The net result of the tuning was: Full power: 505.4kW (atw) at 27psi Final Tune: 410kW (atw) at 22psi I've also got some pictures of the exhaust going in and a dyno run video coming soon.
  18. R33 GTR Front Diff Bearings Does anybody know the cross reference part number for the R32/R33 GTR front diff bearings? I've stripped it apart and brought the bearings to a bearing shop to no avail. Was suggested it has to be OEM. Otherwise, if any shop is willing to sell me the complete set of; Diff centre bearings x2 Input pinion bearings x2 Input pinion seal x1 Bearing retainer seal (driver side front shaft seal) x1 Shoot me a PM and price with delivery to Perth metro.
  19. Hi newbie here. just wondering if ABYONE has an ADR approved hood/bonnet and the paper work to prove its adr approved. if anyone can help please ! For a R33 would be a bonus. But not to fussed
  20. So guys i need some help with the rear subframe assembly for the r33 GTS-T. I just picked up an r33 shell and it comes with the R33 rear subframe, but im having trouble with knowing exactly what to purchase for the subframe, could any of you guys just give me a little checklist to write down so i know what to buy for it. Im relatively new to this stuff, so take it easy on me haha. Thanks
  21. Hi SAU, As the title states; looking to buy some Ikeya adjustable suspension parts for my R33 GT-R. Looking for the following: - Roll center adjustable lower arm - Adjustable rear lower arm - Traction adjuster rod Want them to be in good enough or better condition, something that still has life in them: i.e. bushes/joints still good, construction not damaged, surface rust is okay. Buying new is a little expensive with this brand, so I thought why not check the used market before importing new from Japan. Located in VIC. Happy to pay for shipping (whether you're interstate or in VIC due to Covid-19). Brand new, from Japan, would set me back anywhere between $2800 - $3000 (landed), maybe more. Please let me know if you have any or all aforementioned parts for sale. Contact me through here please. Cheers
  22. As per topic title, I'm after a charcoal canister, with hoses would be advantageous. Preferably from an S2 rb25det. Location: Victoria, but would be happy to pay someone post if need be. Cheers. ?
  23. 1993 skyline r33r impul 4 door 2.6 gtr motor single turbo 5 spd twin plate clutch Gtr brakes with flexible braided lines In tank internal pump to swirl pot to 2x external 340lph bosch fuel pumps. Link ECU Yolk 18x235 front and 18x265 rear rims. Tien adjustable coil overs with adjustable dampening control unit in dash. Also whiteline front and back stabiliser bars. Handles good for age. Engine had extensive work internally. Crack tested, blueprinted and balanced. All aftermarket exceeding 50k to build. All engine work done by all star garage Perth. Currently driving with stock lsd but have a tomei locker included, just in pieces chasing bearing and seal kit to rebuild. 3" stainless Jasma exhaust with screamer pipe too. the last photo shows the front bumper not the best and bonnet got a dent at the very front. All up probably 5 to 6 minor dents and a few stone chips but overall still a really nice car with no major work to restore to its former glory. Really nice to drive and a headturner too not to mention eats hsv gts's and fpv gt's for breakfast!!! Not to mention gtr's, gtst's too! Very hard to obey the speed limit and nothing sounds better than hitting boost hearing the screamer pipe do it's job!!! I want 20k firm, no dreamers, no tyre kickers and if you know what your looking at price self explanatory. I'm not desperate to sell and the longer I have the more I will do to it and probably decide to keep. Please text me to enquire and a good time to ring you as I work long hrs. Thank you. Email : [email protected] Phone : 0477582361
  24. Does anyone know of a fuel pump that I can "directly" replace the factory one with for my N/A r33 GTS. Yes I know there's upgrade kits for more pressure etc, I'm not looking to make power I just want to replace the old pump without messing around with wiring etc, just want to direct swap it for a new one whether it be oem or aftermarket that direct fits to original bracket/wires. Cheers
  25. Hello all, If anyone was following my previous build thread I had an R34 GTT [FR34K] that I wrote off. I decided it was probably my only chance to get into the GTR scene. After searching for a while I found a member on here selling a beautiful white R33 GTR V-spec with an N1 engine. My goals for this car are just to be a weekend cruiser, occasionally heading down to the drags to see what it can do. If I could run a 10 second pass on the H pattern gearbox I would be exstatic, and I think somewhere in the vicinity of 800awhp would be more than enough as a max power figure. Car already has -7 turbos, poncams and a power FC with supporting mods, making a respectable 420awhp. It has HKS coilovers, Project mu rotors and gold BBS rims, with a lovely Jun style carbon lip. Immediate thoughts of this car (coming from a 485whp GTT) are: it's really fast. The GT35R on my R34, although made nice power, was quite laggy in comparison to the -7s. They feel like they have no lag, and the car doesn't have any problems whatsoever putting the power to the ground. I find myself looking down at the speedo after planting my foot and being blown away about how fast I'm going. The gear ratios help play a part in that as well, although aggressive, are still fantastic when just cruising. The suspension is very stiff - too stiff for me (it's something I will be changing very soon) but it handles superbly. After landing in WA, I took the car to a licencing centre to get it inspected. The list consisted of some minor things like globes and removing of tint. Nothing major - the hardest thing was child restraints which I borrowed out of a wrecked r33. Yesterday I passed my final inspection and picked up my custom plates.
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