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Found 1,881 results

  1. R33 GTR Front Diff Bearings Does anybody know the cross reference part number for the R32/R33 GTR front diff bearings? I've stripped it apart and brought the bearings to a bearing shop to no avail. Was suggested it has to be OEM. Otherwise, if any shop is willing to sell me the complete set of; Diff centre bearings x2 Input pinion bearings x2 Input pinion seal x1 Bearing retainer seal (driver side front shaft seal) x1 Shoot me a PM and price with delivery to Perth metro.
  2. I need help with what I should do with my diff it’s a Active LSD with a altessa pump system. It singles and I want to to double what can I do with this diff bleed it, weld it, get it shimmed, block off the altessa system? Idk what to do please help as I want to use my car for drifting / road use
  3. Hello. I bought myt skyline 4yrs ago. First I drove it thru winter (surprisingly good winter ride). At the spring stock turbo waste got stuck. Car was 3 months in the carage. I put kinuqawa bolt on turbo and cheap low mount exhaust manigold. It was rest of the summer this way. Then I planned to do some little changes at the winter. But as many of you know things start to get bigger. I start building rollcage and strip whole car down. When car was tripped it would be stubid not to do some things like stich weldin and sandblasting the body etc. I also wanted to do some wisual mods and strip everything extra weight out from the body. Rollcage caused some changes also. Like stock heater system is not fitting anymore. Rear subfame and diff bushes changed to aluminium. Rear and front subframes and stock controll arms got some extra strenght also. Bash bars in front and back wore made from scratch. Now car is going back to gether slowly and I hope to get it done before 2030 🤣 Here is some picks of it. More you can see from my ig @nuut3ro
  4. Hi newbie here. just wondering if ABYONE has an ADR approved hood/bonnet and the paper work to prove its adr approved. if anyone can help please ! For a R33 would be a bonus. But not to fussed
  5. Hi guys, I just came across a complete front subframe assembly for an r34, the title of the ad just says r34 so I’m presuming it’s a coupe. I have an R33 at home and was wondering if the r34 front subframe assembly will bolt straight into the r33. Im looking to do this with relatively little modification of its needed, also does anyone know if it will throw off the geometry of the car or if it’s okay to be doing this. Thank you very much if you’s can help guys .
  6. Hello Thought I’d take time share with you my GTR. I’ve been a member on SAU since the early days – April 2002. Started on here as a young guy in my early 20’s – just sold my VP HSV and was looking to buy a R33 GTSt which were just starting to be sold at the yards around that time. After owing the GTSt, I moved onto Supras, Evo’s and various R33 and R34 GTR’s over the last 10 years. Although I loved the 2JZ Supras – the car that I always loved the most and always gives me the best memories – was my 2001 R34 GTR V Spec II. 2001 GTR V Spec II 1998 GTR Supra 2010 Shelby GT500 Being without a GTR for a number of years I decided I would start quietly keeping an eye out in Japan for my next car. I am very particular about my cars – extremely fussy – so I was in no rush – browsing the yards in Japan is half the fun. I was after a car in Japan – I had to be first owner in Australia. I was after a quality modified car – standard or near standard cars was not an option – as had many and I was looking for something more hardcore. Wanted a car built in Japan, of the highest quality, genuine low km, etc etc. This car would be a keeper – something I will spend time in with my sons, enjoy, etc. I was actually looking for a 34 …. when I received an email from Global Auto in Japan (where I had purchased the Autoselect R34 GTR the week before)…….. Details of Vehicle of emailed to me from Global Auto ... 1997 R33 GTR V Spec Series 3 50000km 87o N1 piston Cylinder head surface training positive processing Engine block boring, honing surface Modification to crank, Konrod weight adjustment NISMO metal head gasket N1 Oil Pump N1 Water Pump TRUST Aluminium Pulley Kit TRUST T78-33D Turbine Kit TRUST Exhaust Manifold TRUST Racing Westgate TRUST Fuel Delivery Line TRUST 3 Layer Intercooler TRUST Intercooler Piping TRUST 16-stage Oil Cooler TRUST Aluminium Radiator TRUST front pipe TRUST TR Power Evolution muffler TRUST sequential 6-speed transmission TRUST PROFEC boost controller TRUST turbo timer TRUST boost gauge HKS super power flow reloaded Ted NISMO Fuel Pressure Regulator NISMO Large Capacity Fuel Pump BILLION silicon radiator hose SARD 650cc fuel injector Aluminium Suction Pipe Apexi N1 suspension OS GIKEN twin plate clutch OS GIKEN lightweight flywheel WINMAX brake pads AMKREAD AM-1 18-inch wheels POTENZA 275/35-18 tire HKS F-CON V-PRO NISMO 320km full scale meter NISMO-dash triple meter N1 bumper duct Pictures as sent to me from Global Auto... Just arrived at their yard – before they put it for sale would I be interested. Upon looking at the pictures and quick call to check over some details – I purchased it immediately. When bringing the car to Australia – I decided to ship the GTR directly to GT AUTO in Brisbane. As I’m in Perth – I entrusted Tim and Dave to look after the car for me - service, minor upgrades and tuning needed to be done. I cannot speak highly enough of the boys at GT Auto in Brisbane – who took nothing but amazing care of my car. Whilst at GT Auto - some of the improvements to the car I have made ... * HKS FCONV V-PRO ECU * HKS EVO6 Boost Controller * 1000CC Injectors * RADIUM Surge Tank with Twin External Pumps Bracket * E85 Fuel Line and Fittings * HKS Cam Gears * New NPC Twin Plate Custom Clutch 1000HP * Nitto Clear Cam Cover * Garage Defend C/F Cooling Panel * Tinted Windows * Polished Intake Plenum * New N1 Water Pump * Dyno Tuning GTR whilst at GT AUTO ... Results were 667HP at All 4 Wheels (497kw @ Wheels) Dyno Video --> https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10203435806553168&set=vb.75231026522&type=2&theater Now at home in Perth with me .... AUTO SELECT Strut brace added. Braided Hoses replaces clear plastic. I will continue to update this topic to share with you my experiences - and keep a history of my GTR. Thank you for reading. Daniel
  7. So guys i need some help with the rear subframe assembly for the r33 GTS-T. I just picked up an r33 shell and it comes with the R33 rear subframe, but im having trouble with knowing exactly what to purchase for the subframe, could any of you guys just give me a little checklist to write down so i know what to buy for it. Im relatively new to this stuff, so take it easy on me haha. Thanks
  8. Hi SAU, As the title states; looking to buy some Ikeya adjustable suspension parts for my R33 GT-R. Looking for the following: - Roll center adjustable lower arm - Adjustable rear lower arm - Traction adjuster rod Want them to be in good enough or better condition, something that still has life in them: i.e. bushes/joints still good, construction not damaged, surface rust is okay. Buying new is a little expensive with this brand, so I thought why not check the used market before importing new from Japan. Located in VIC. Happy to pay for shipping (whether you're interstate or in VIC due to Covid-19). Brand new, from Japan, would set me back anywhere between $2800 - $3000 (landed), maybe more. Please let me know if you have any or all aforementioned parts for sale. Contact me through here please. Cheers
  9. As per topic title, I'm after a charcoal canister, with hoses would be advantageous. Preferably from an S2 rb25det. Location: Victoria, but would be happy to pay someone post if need be. Cheers. 🙏
  10. 1993 skyline r33r impul 4 door 2.6 gtr motor single turbo 5 spd twin plate clutch Gtr brakes with flexible braided lines In tank internal pump to swirl pot to 2x external 340lph bosch fuel pumps. Link ECU Yolk 18x235 front and 18x265 rear rims. Tien adjustable coil overs with adjustable dampening control unit in dash. Also whiteline front and back stabiliser bars. Handles good for age. Engine had extensive work internally. Crack tested, blueprinted and balanced. All aftermarket exceeding 50k to build. All engine work done by all star garage Perth. Currently driving with stock lsd but have a tomei locker included, just in pieces chasing bearing and seal kit to rebuild. 3" stainless Jasma exhaust with screamer pipe too. the last photo shows the front bumper not the best and bonnet got a dent at the very front. All up probably 5 to 6 minor dents and a few stone chips but overall still a really nice car with no major work to restore to its former glory. Really nice to drive and a headturner too not to mention eats hsv gts's and fpv gt's for breakfast!!! Not to mention gtr's, gtst's too! Very hard to obey the speed limit and nothing sounds better than hitting boost hearing the screamer pipe do it's job!!! I want 20k firm, no dreamers, no tyre kickers and if you know what your looking at price self explanatory. I'm not desperate to sell and the longer I have the more I will do to it and probably decide to keep. Please text me to enquire and a good time to ring you as I work long hrs. Thank you. Email : danno7666@outlook.com Phone : 0477582361
  11. Does anyone know of a fuel pump that I can "directly" replace the factory one with for my N/A r33 GTS. Yes I know there's upgrade kits for more pressure etc, I'm not looking to make power I just want to replace the old pump without messing around with wiring etc, just want to direct swap it for a new one whether it be oem or aftermarket that direct fits to original bracket/wires. Cheers
  12. Hello all, If anyone was following my previous build thread I had an R34 GTT [FR34K] that I wrote off. I decided it was probably my only chance to get into the GTR scene. After searching for a while I found a member on here selling a beautiful white R33 GTR V-spec with an N1 engine. My goals for this car are just to be a weekend cruiser, occasionally heading down to the drags to see what it can do. If I could run a 10 second pass on the H pattern gearbox I would be exstatic, and I think somewhere in the vicinity of 800awhp would be more than enough as a max power figure. Car already has -7 turbos, poncams and a power FC with supporting mods, making a respectable 420awhp. It has HKS coilovers, Project mu rotors and gold BBS rims, with a lovely Jun style carbon lip. Immediate thoughts of this car (coming from a 485whp GTT) are: it's really fast. The GT35R on my R34, although made nice power, was quite laggy in comparison to the -7s. They feel like they have no lag, and the car doesn't have any problems whatsoever putting the power to the ground. I find myself looking down at the speedo after planting my foot and being blown away about how fast I'm going. The gear ratios help play a part in that as well, although aggressive, are still fantastic when just cruising. The suspension is very stiff - too stiff for me (it's something I will be changing very soon) but it handles superbly. After landing in WA, I took the car to a licencing centre to get it inspected. The list consisted of some minor things like globes and removing of tint. Nothing major - the hardest thing was child restraints which I borrowed out of a wrecked r33. Yesterday I passed my final inspection and picked up my custom plates.
  13. Hey people, I've had my black 1997 R33 gtst now for 11 years, since it was imported from n. Its completely stock, in what I'd assume is really good condition apart from needing a good vacuum; and it's completely stock (apart from 34 GTR rims). Has a sunroof, 186,000 ks but runs like a dream Time to sell and get a more practical boat. Anyone know what they're worth these days? I bought it in 2010 for $14k. I'm going to cry when I sell it, honestly. But I can't garage it 😭 Appreciate any guesses etc.
  14. Need help with R33 roof rack fitment I'm looking for advice on roof rack fitment for the R33, and/or someone with an R33 who might have time to drop by a roof rack shop (ideally one I normally use in Artarmon, NSW) in exchange for a bit of moolah. Searches indicate Thule once produced a setup for the R33: fit kit 235 mounting 950 feet, a short roofline extension kit and square bars. Chatting with shops, it sounds more promising to instead work out what modern fit kit works with today's 754 feet. On a UK forum ben_harmer32 made use of fit kit 1228 for this purpose, but the positioning achieved by a subsequent poster with such parts looks sketchy.
  15. Yo... So, after picking up an RB25 block and crank cheap on here from AngryRB, a forged short block build project has been on the cards for the last few months as I already had a lot of parts left over from the last engine build. Will be using Ross Pistons, and I had been leaning towards Spool rods as they will no doubt handle the 600-700hp the engine is being built for. However, after posting a review of the maxpeedingrods turbo I used recently, which I found to be outstanding value for money, I was contacted by MaXpeedingRods asking me if I had any projects happening and if I was interested in using any of their other parts. They make a conrod for the RB25, and loads of other cars, but unfortunately I couldn't find any real info on them as far as the RB/skyline community goes, although a few reviews and a bit of info on other forums, and a more detailed review here https://bofiracing.co.uk/blog/maxpeedingrods-cheap-chinese-rods-our-verdict/ No real horror stories found, (only 2 issues on a VW forums which seemed to result from a rod bolt failure, rather than the rods themselves) with most of the negatives I found seeming to be the ol' " no way I'd use ebay parts" which to me is an attitude about 15 years out of date. After seeing their conrods and comparing the specs to Spool, Scat, Eagle rods, they seemed to be very comparable, (if not the same but rebranded), and MUCH cheaper. Then after discussing with them regarding the product and what my upcoming build will be needing, they have sent me a set which arrived within a few days from the AU warehouse - nice secure box with plenty of foam packing, each rod in a sealed bag and greasepaper-wrapped. The rod itself, when compared to the stock rod, there's no comparison. Nice even finish across it, laser-etched marking on the big ends showing the final measurements, the caps are dowelled giving a precise fitment on the rod. I was a little suss on the genuine-ity of the ARP fastener but have confirmed with ARP, yes they are an official ARP product, made under license. The block and crank are with the rebuilder at the moment (but have confirmed, the crank and bores have measured up fine, so thanks AngryRB ) and I will be dropping the rods into them next week for the engine balancing, so will post up their feedback on the rods shortly.
  16. Hey guys and girls I have been looking into fitting a T56 6 speed manual gearbox or TR606 to my R33 GTR I have carried out allot of research I have found out RWD conversions are possible and have been done but no one has done a AWD conversion that I have been able to find. I think this could be a viable and cost effective option for people who are looking for a quiet street able gearbox which is capable of handling high HP. Now the cost for a setup like this could range from $6000 to $8000 that is a estimate at this stage the first unit would more than likely be more expensive but with more interest these costs could fall The T56 Magnum would probably be the gearbox of choice as it is the strongest syco box they do Able to withstand a massive 700 lb-ft. of torque while providing unbelievably crisp shifts, no other manual transmission on the planet offers as much combined strength, versatility, and general ease-of-use as the T-56 Magnum. Known in its original equipment form as the 'TR-6060', the Magnum is an aftermarket version of the same transmission found in many of today's most celebrated factory super cars – including the ZR1 Corvette and ACR Viper – giving you refinement where you want it and strength where it counts. Other positives about these gearboxes are gear sets PPG have dog configurations and sequential setups for the more hardcore drivers. I personally wouldn’t see the point all you would do is fit a PPG setup to the factory 5 speed. The bell housing is also allot larger this may offer GTR owners more clutch options more surface area and the possibility to run a nicer street able clutch (sprung centre) The biggest positive is retaining the 4WD and for me that the game changer. This isn't set in stone as yet, I am looking for advice and wisdom there is a huge amount of knowledge on this forum and would love to hear your thoughts and comments thanks for your time Frosty
  17. I have a 1996 R33 rb25det I have searched everywhere and I see a lot of topics on this but nothing has really helped me First off I was having idle issues on start up. It was sitting around 500rpm so I changed my. Bov back to recirc starts good now. But still sitting around 700 which is fine.. But hadn't fixed properly. I'm still having problems coming to an intersection sounds like it's idle hunting. And it'll drop back down to 0 then bounce back up. I just have to keep the revs up to stop it from dieing. I've cleaned the iacv and adjustig the screw and that didn't do anything at all I've checked for vac leaks and nothing. My thought was maybe the maf but that's sweet. If anyone can help will be appreciated. Thanks:)
  18. I just found some pics of this custom gtr by veilside and thought I'd share them. It's apparently up for sale for 120k.
  19. Used Apexi PFC with hand controller to suit R33gtr or Stagea 260rs, $600. Pick up Sth East Melb or can arrange postage. Cheers
  20. Steve's R33 LM Limited Upkeep Hi all, I've been stalking these pages for a quite a long time now. Thought i should throw my car up for everyone to look at. Some of you will be familiar with this car already as I purchased it from Gav in Perth. Gav had this car built by Glavsport and it has been a no expense spared build. With that in mind I too have decided to buy things once and any changes that go onto the car will be the highest quality I can reasonably manage. You may be aware that my start with this car was somewhat turbulent as someone tried to steal it from me on the first day I drove it. (See link: Steve's Intro ). Since then I have hidden the car away under lock and key (and other security measures). The car has just returned to me now from Racepace in Bayswater. We (well, not really we, more the guys at Racepace) made some changes to my car, repaired the damage from the break in and installed a new immobiliser and tracker. It's nice to have the car back in one piece and using a key to start it, rather than any flat item jammed into what was left of the ignition. One of the biggest issues I was having was fumes coming into the cabin from under the bonnet/car. It turned out to be a twofold issue. 1. The exhaust was pinched and suffering from E85 damage (it was a 3" mild steel exhaust) 2. The oil catch can breather may have been letting fumes into the air vents for inside the car. The guys at Racepace have fabricated and installed a brand new 3.5" exhaust with V-Bands and tuned length headers to solve the exhaust problems and they also rerouted the catch can fumes into the rear turbo so they are expelled through the exhaust. With the new exhaust it was necessary to re-tune the car on the dyno so this was also completed. As someone who doesn't get to drive fast cars much, millions of kWs were deemed unnecessary. I asked the guys specifically if they could turn the engine down to a level it will be happy to perform at for a long, long time. In tuning the car the guys turned the engine up to what they deemed a reasonable level, then turned it back down as I requested. The net result of the tuning was: Full power: 505.4kW (atw) at 27psi Final Tune: 410kW (atw) at 22psi I've also got some pictures of the exhaust going in and a dyno run video coming soon.
  21. So I bought a 1996 Nissan Skyline R33 in October last year and thought you know I'm going to enjoy the car as it is and slowly upgrade/fix things. For those looking for a car with massive amounts of power, this is not the build for you. This is for those who are like me (i'm sure you exist) who are happy with their stock car, and spend time washing, polishing, fixing things and just enjoying the car for what it is. I am an engineering student and also work part time which funds my car therefore everything is small and restricted. Many of you thinking, why bother with a build thread. My reply is because I can and why not. I have been reading other peoples threads and it has inspired me to start my own. Also I lost most of my pictures since October and am working on recovering them. So without further ado, here goes. This is my first car. I saved up for 2 years working on weekends to buy this. After a year of searching and finding all sorts of shit cars which had been modified, i found this bone stock Series 2 R33 GTST. The only thing upgraded was the audio and the wheels. I have the standard wheels sitting too just in case I need em one day. with ~158,000 kms (more on this later). I absolutely love it. I'm obsessed with cleaning it and my first aim was to fix everything that was not working or not working 100%. So the last 8 months have been small upgrades and improving things in the car. This is a picture of the day it came home. Instantly I decided it was time for a wash and a drive and photoshoot.
  22. G'day ppl could I get pointers on a full rebuild of anRB@% GTST Series II engine for 500 to 1000 hp. I'm after horsepower and reliability together I dont want to be breaking somthing all the time lol. How much roughly could the rebuild cost aswell rough figures of what other ppl have spent and the ideas aswell would be helpfull. Im also south of brissy qld so any shop recommendations would be greatfull to.
  23. So I went to start my car and there’s a blue led on my steering coulomb and when it lights up I can’t start the car. Sometimes it happens sometime it doesn’t, when the light is on there is a fast past clicking noise coming from under the dash, I have had a look and it seems to come from a small black box?? Any ideas on how to fix this. thanks in advance
  24. looking for a pair of R33 gtr indicator surround been looking for ages but can only get the drivers side. im in brisbane QLD and am happy to pay postage
  25. Currently has a tune for 300 kw R33 Gtst - hypergear high flow turbo, nismo 740cc injectors, walbro 255, front mount intercooler and full 3" intercooler. So if you have similar mods you can run the ecu but a full tune for your car is recommended. I have bought another ecu to suit my needs, so want this gone asap (negotiable on $$ within reason). Features: Built in 4-bar MAP sensor to replace the factory airflow meter. VE tuning to simplify injector upgrades and simplify staging Easy to use software Plugs into factory wiring Compatible with many third party dashes and devices Full closed loop operation Flex fuel capable Launch control, antilag, flat shift and boost by gear all standard Semi sequential injection and wasted spark ignition Spare 0-5V analogue input On the GTR / R32, VVT output can be reassigned to a different function One additional spare aux output 3 spare digital inputs Spare temperature input Compatible with single and multi throttle body (for GTiR) tuning modes SPECIAL FEATURES This ECU also supports all the functions of the 440 ECU, however for advanced functions such as traction control, additional wiring and/or sensors will be necessary: Flex fuel function – fill it up with gas/petrol or any ethanol concentration Adaptive fuel control (self tuning) – reduces dyno time Traction control function Serial input for wideband O2 sensors (we recommend the MTXL) Serial output for communication with dashes and dataloggers (we recommend the Race Technology units) Headphone port for listening to the knock sensor while tuning Basic closed loop ignition control Closed loop fuel, idle, boost, 2 x variable valve timing control Easy to use software Dual maps (both maps required for GTiR for combined TPS / MAP tuning)
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