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  1. Hello Thought I’d take time share with you my GTR. I’ve been a member on SAU since the early days – April 2002. Started on here as a young guy in my early 20’s – just sold my VP HSV and was looking to buy a R33 GTSt which were just starting to be sold at the yards around that time. After owing the GTSt, I moved onto Supras, Evo’s and various R33 and R34 GTR’s over the last 10 years. Although I loved the 2JZ Supras – the car that I always loved the most and always gives me the best memories – was my 2001 R34 GTR V Spec II. 2001 GTR V Spec II 1998 GTR Supra 2010 Shelby GT500 Being without a GTR for a number of years I decided I would start quietly keeping an eye out in Japan for my next car. I am very particular about my cars – extremely fussy – so I was in no rush – browsing the yards in Japan is half the fun. I was after a car in Japan – I had to be first owner in Australia. I was after a quality modified car – standard or near standard cars was not an option – as had many and I was looking for something more hardcore. Wanted a car built in Japan, of the highest quality, genuine low km, etc etc. This car would be a keeper – something I will spend time in with my sons, enjoy, etc. I was actually looking for a 34 …. when I received an email from Global Auto in Japan (where I had purchased the Autoselect R34 GTR the week before)…….. Details of Vehicle of emailed to me from Global Auto ... 1997 R33 GTR V Spec Series 3 50000km 87o N1 piston Cylinder head surface training positive processing Engine block boring, honing surface Modification to crank, Konrod weight adjustment NISMO metal head gasket N1 Oil Pump N1 Water Pump TRUST Aluminium Pulley Kit TRUST T78-33D Turbine Kit TRUST Exhaust Manifold TRUST Racing Westgate TRUST Fuel Delivery Line TRUST 3 Layer Intercooler TRUST Intercooler Piping TRUST 16-stage Oil Cooler TRUST Aluminium Radiator TRUST front pipe TRUST TR Power Evolution muffler TRUST sequential 6-speed transmission TRUST PROFEC boost controller TRUST turbo timer TRUST boost gauge HKS super power flow reloaded Ted NISMO Fuel Pressure Regulator NISMO Large Capacity Fuel Pump BILLION silicon radiator hose SARD 650cc fuel injector Aluminium Suction Pipe Apexi N1 suspension OS GIKEN twin plate clutch OS GIKEN lightweight flywheel WINMAX brake pads AMKREAD AM-1 18-inch wheels POTENZA 275/35-18 tire HKS F-CON V-PRO NISMO 320km full scale meter NISMO-dash triple meter N1 bumper duct Pictures as sent to me from Global Auto... Just arrived at their yard – before they put it for sale would I be interested. Upon looking at the pictures and quick call to check over some details – I purchased it immediately. When bringing the car to Australia – I decided to ship the GTR directly to GT AUTO in Brisbane. As I’m in Perth – I entrusted Tim and Dave to look after the car for me - service, minor upgrades and tuning needed to be done. I cannot speak highly enough of the boys at GT Auto in Brisbane – who took nothing but amazing care of my car. Whilst at GT Auto - some of the improvements to the car I have made ... * HKS FCONV V-PRO ECU * HKS EVO6 Boost Controller * 1000CC Injectors * RADIUM Surge Tank with Twin External Pumps Bracket * E85 Fuel Line and Fittings * HKS Cam Gears * New NPC Twin Plate Custom Clutch 1000HP * Nitto Clear Cam Cover * Garage Defend C/F Cooling Panel * Tinted Windows * Polished Intake Plenum * New N1 Water Pump * Dyno Tuning GTR whilst at GT AUTO ... Results were 667HP at All 4 Wheels (497kw @ Wheels) Dyno Video --> https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10203435806553168&set=vb.75231026522&type=2&theater Now at home in Perth with me .... AUTO SELECT Strut brace added. Braided Hoses replaces clear plastic. I will continue to update this topic to share with you my experiences - and keep a history of my GTR. Thank you for reading. Daniel
  2. So I bought a 1996 Nissan Skyline R33 in October last year and thought you know I'm going to enjoy the car as it is and slowly upgrade/fix things. For those looking for a car with massive amounts of power, this is not the build for you. This is for those who are like me (i'm sure you exist) who are happy with their stock car, and spend time washing, polishing, fixing things and just enjoying the car for what it is. I am an engineering student and also work part time which funds my car therefore everything is small and restricted. Many of you thinking, why bother with a build thread. My reply is because I can and why not. I have been reading other peoples threads and it has inspired me to start my own. Also I lost most of my pictures since October and am working on recovering them. So without further ado, here goes. This is my first car. I saved up for 2 years working on weekends to buy this. After a year of searching and finding all sorts of shit cars which had been modified, i found this bone stock Series 2 R33 GTST. The only thing upgraded was the audio and the wheels. I have the standard wheels sitting too just in case I need em one day. with ~158,000 kms (more on this later). I absolutely love it. I'm obsessed with cleaning it and my first aim was to fix everything that was not working or not working 100%. So the last 8 months have been small upgrades and improving things in the car. This is a picture of the day it came home. Instantly I decided it was time for a wash and a drive and photoshoot.
  3. Hi All, Recently my A/C would only blow stinking hot air which was awfully uncomfortable to drive in but it's been too cold to have it off. It started off that it was sporadic but eventually got worse. After some soul searching I found out that the part is a the Air Mix/Blend actuator which controls how much fresh air vs heater air comes through the vents. Tools/Requirements: - Soldering Iron and Solder - Assorted Phillips head and flat head screw drivers - Vice to hold everything - Power supply to test the motor itself - Permanent marker to mark existing points - Sand paper Difficulty: - Low Time Required: - 1 Hour Optional: - Brand new OEM mix actuator - Used OEM working mix actuator 1) Start by testing the actuator using the diagnostics system - If you have error 26, the problem is most certainly the actuator http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426605-aircon-diagnostics-r33/ 2) Locate the actuator under the drivers side dash to the left 3) Remove cap holding the actuator rod in place, mark the rod for reference and pop the rod out of it's "seat" 4) Disconnect the wiring connector from the mix actuator 5) Remove the three securing screws shown below and take the actuator out of the car *over to the bench* 6) Mark some reference points on the arm for the actuator - This will make it easier to assemble again later 7) Unscrew the actuator off its mounting bracket 8) Remove the two screws that seal the housing 9) Using a flat head screwdriver gently pry the arm off the actuator 10) Separate the two clips that hold the housing together from the side and gently open the actuator case 11) Remove all of the little gears from the housing and set them aside somewhere they won't roll away 12) Remove the circuit board and motor from the housing to reveal the last large gear with contacts on it 13) Gently bend the contacts upwards to ensure they haven't been worn out and bent over time - Give the contacts a light sand at while you're at it 14) Clean the contact surface on the circuit board - I wasn't sure what sort of grease this was so I left a thin coat on the board anyway 15) Connect a power source to the motor terminals to ensure the motor still functions - If not see the options above or look at a replacement motor (from Jaycar or other electronics stores or eBay) 16) Take your soldering iron and melt the solder on the joints of the board - Take the time to add a bit more solder where necessary 17) If all went well work your way back from step 12 and test the actuator again
  4. I left an interior light on in my R33 which unfortunately drained my month old battery completely. I've jump started it a hundred times before on my old battery as it died every few days, but this time I was careless and hooked up the wrong cables on the jump pack (black-red, red-black instead of black-black, red-red). I recognised this error after my jump pack started beeping at me, so I swapped the cables around, jump started it, and took it for a drive. When I turned it off, the car just kept running. All electronics and the turbo timer was shut off but the engine continued to run. Since then, I've had to use my fuel pump kill switch to turn my car off. I checked all my fuses (bonnet, cabin, boot) and none appear to be blown. Something else I've noticed is that my central locking using my remote still works, but the immobiliser "beep" doesn't sound anymore when I lock and unlock my car. I disconnected the battery for an hour yesterday but it didn't seem to help, so I pulled the battery out completely and have put it on a charger to pump it right up. Do you guys have any ideas my engine might not be switching off when I turn the rest of the car off? Unfortunately Google and search hasn't helped much this time around.
  5. Looking for Ikeya Formula tie rods to suit s14 Thanks!
  6. 1997 S2 R33 GTST in QM1 white Manual 15XXXX KMs $5000 firm Selling due to very limited use. I have put on no more than 20k KMs in the 4 years since ownership. Has been out of rego since Sept 21 but comes with pink slip. Has not been driven the past few months but regularly gets kicked over for a few laps up the street Mods: Blitz return flow FMIC Fenix auto alloy radiator/silicon hoses Nismo thermostat Blitz ZZ-R coilovers (c spanners included) Daiken HD clutch Front and rear strut brace Splitfire coilpacks/NGK iridium Genuine Apexi Pod kit (Stock airbox and spare AFM also) HKS Priest 3" cat back 17x9 +22 enkei RP01 in White Apexi SAFC2 New battery Alarm with built in turbo timer Also comes with the below parts but not installed: Viva garage front lip 3" bellmouth 1 piece dump 3" Hi-flow cat Stock intercooler/piping Stock airbox Spare Pink Label AFM HICAS lock bar Due to my move few years back I regret to inform that can not find any documentation/receipts that I have for the car. Searched high and low and hoping they will eventually turn up. I bought the car absolutely stock with 13XXXXKMs on it. I will try to find the ad that was originally posted up on here. There are no known issues with the car and has never been in an accident to my knowledge. I have also replaced all manifold studs plus the manifold and turbo gasket due to previous leak. Does not leak and oil/fluids and doesn't blow any smoke. Though the air con needs a re-gas. If you say you are going to come and take a look, please be professional about and at least let me know if you are not able to make it as I have had to take off work early, deny other people access, just to meet 'seriously interested' people that don't end up coming and not replying to text. Location: Wollongong Contact: Felix 0401905915
  7. For sale a pair of bride fixed back replicas, excellent condition no rips or tears. Come with r32 r33 ceffy super low rails by Australian company power rails. After $750 for everything not separating unless someone wants the passenger side first. In Adelaide ring Chris zero four 01483906 thanks
  8. Hi guys, I'm new to the forum Please excuse me if my post is long and boring. Or if the question has been asked before. So like the title says, how do I get close to the stock sound with new (non-stock) parts? Saying that I have no trust for old used stock parts. Basically, I want to hear mostly the engine, not the fart cannon. But at high revs, can go all out. AND I DON'T WANT A LOUD IDLE SOUND Any specific parts you guys can suggest? From the manifold down to the tailpipe, list me some parts I wanna hear everybody's suggestions or opinions. I'm currently listing down parts (along with their codes) for an R32 project I have planned (stock look, stock to above-stock performance, and discrete sound) Candidates: Varex, HKS Silent Hi-power Some factors in consideration: -very minimal "low-key" idle sound (least of it, if possible) -street modest (I don't want to be heard before I am seen) -not so big tailpipe (size close to stock look) -medium ground clearance (close to stock clearance) -I don't mind compromising a little performance (seriously) Extra questions: -Can anybody link me a video of the stock R32 exhaust sound? Factory exhaust, not aftermarket -Please reply? thanks in advance!
  9. Location: VIC - Melbourne, Inner Northern Suburbs - LOCAL PICKUP ONLY Price: $2500 ONO for Whole Car Model: 1996 (Oct) R33 GTS-T Series 2 Colour: Silver Engine: RB25DET - Completely Stock Odometer: 105,000km Mods: None Rego: Valid till Oct 2015 - Declared repairable writeoff by Insurance. Not registered on WOVR due to car age >15 Years. Let's get the nitty gritty out of the way: Major Damage: Front Bumper Bar, Reo Bar, Radiator Support, Condenser and Fan, Radiator, Passenger door (small dent, scratches). Mechanical: Needs new front shockers; Engine is in very good condition - has had welsh plugs replaced; Timing belt replaced at ~80,000km; New heavy duty clutch <1year old. Electrical: Battery Flat, ABS light constantly on (may require new ABS unit), Driver side power mirror Y-axis control not working, Aircon vents click momentarily on cold start (possible stuck valve?), Radio Antenna stuck in lowered position (won't raise). Minor Cosmetic Defects: See Pictures For sale as Whole Car only (unfortunately do not have time or resources to part it out). Refer to above descriptions for major details. Have owned car since it was imported from Japan in 2005 at 47,000km. Serviced every 5,000km by performance mechanics, serviced with Motul oil. Engine/Pulley's have no damage from accident (See detailed pics) Boot is clean, have original spare wheel and tools. Apart from issues described above, Chasis is straight and no other problems. Car is stock - No mods to engine, exhaust etc... PM for more info/contact details - can provide more pics if required. Make me an offer!
  10. Hey guys I want to buy front seats from 33 gtr
  11. Front bar Front reo Headlights
  12. Full set of Work SSR Professor SP1 To suit GTR, EVO or Silvia and Gtst with flared guards. No buckles or dents all wheels balance up 0/0. These are second hand wheels so they have some paint chips and imperfections but overall condition is good. Wheels are located in Brisbane. Front and Rear 17x9.5 +12 and 5x114.3 stud pattern Currently fitted with Achillies 123S 235/45. Happy to remove the tyres if the size doesn't suit buyer. Fronts 70% Tread Rear 50% Tread $2500 Negotiable
  13. I received this clutch with a motor that I bought and since I already have a good clutch I have no need for it. It has only approx. 2000 Kms of use behind 260 rwkw and includes a customised flywheel that has been lightened and balanced with the pressure plate. Description from NPC's website: With an increase in clamp pressure as high as 110% above standard applications, NPC heavy duty button clutch kits are made to handle very hard road use, circuit, rally, drag or drifting. Depending on the application 3, 4, 5 or 6 buttons may be fitted to the clutch plate. In most applications ceramic or carbotic friction material is used offering outstanding performance with positive engagement. What's included: Heavy duty sprung button driven plate NPC clutch cover and heavy duty pressure plate (push type) Lightened and balanced flywheel (suit R33 GTST RB25DET, may be suitable for other RBs too) Pressure plate bolts (of course) Flywheel bolts (used but not very old) What's NOT included: Throw out bearing (contact NPC to see if standard ones are compatible or to buy one that is suitable) Location: McDowall (North Side of Brisbane) Pickup only. Price: $450 ono
  14. Hi guys i'm selling most of my spare car parts I have accumulated over the years due to new commitment. BNR32 Front Strut Bar, manufacture unknown there is some scratches - $65 Front Strut Bar, manufacture Aiba, - $65 Front Strut Bar, Cusco, - $85 Rear Strut Bar , Cusco - $85 Floor Cross Bar, Do-Luck - $250 Genuine weather shield NEW two pairs - $350 each pair Blitz twin core radiator in good condition, no leaks, comes with fan shroud and radiator cap $ 390 Tein Comfort Sport, 16 Stage damping, 5k and 4K spring Rate no leaks or Knocks in good condition - $1400 Ohlins Full Tap 20 stage adjustable coilover with hyper coiler springs, 9k and 7k spring rate, no knocks or leaks, very good condition - $2650 Trust Oil cooler kit in very good condition $350 HKS Oil Cooler Kit $400 Ikeya Formula adjustable camber Arm Rear, Near new condition $410 Nismo 600cc Injectors good condition $520 Greedy 4pcs intercooler pipe kit $370 ATS twin carbon plate clutch push type comes with flywheel, both clutch plates are at thickness of 3.9mm plenty of life left in them - $820 Nismo Front and Rear Sway bar set front sway bar 22.2mm rear is 27.2mm - $500 Cusco 7 point roll cage in good condition with everything you need for fitment, around the dash. - $700 Okuyama 6 point though dash Roll cage in good condition everything everything you need for fitment - $520 Stainless steel front pipe two 70mm to 80mm brand unknown, no leaks - $200 Nismo GT Pro LSD 1.5 way final gear ratio 37:9 in very good condition - $1000 R32 GTST GTS Genuine Weather Shield New - $240 BCNR33 Genuine weather shield NEW - $350 Ohlins DFV coilovers, travelled 3000kms 9k and 8k spring rate 20stage adjustable near new condition $2700 HKS Hypermax 4 GT 30stage damping 8k and 7k spring rate in good condition, no leaks or knocks $1600 O2 sensor x2 $120 ECR33 Nismo G-attack s tune 4 stage damping, no leaks good condition $950 Tein Type RS circuit master coilover 16stage damping and rebound adjustment, good condition 10k and 9k spring rate $1750. Ganador Exhuast 80mm to 90mm tail is 120mm. no leaks, good condition $ 550 BNR34 Nismo R tune Air duct, Brand new - $490 Tein Street Flex Coilovers 16stage damper adjustable 8k and 7k spring rate no leaks or knocks good condition - $1050 Kakimoto Cat back Regu06 80mm to 90mm and 110mm minor scratch marks but no leaks - $620 ER34 Twin core Radiator, 50mm core size no leaks and good condition - $ 190 Trust Oil Cooler kit good condition - $500 Other Nismo Clear side indicator Brand New - $90 Nismo Carbon fiber inside Mirror cover Brand new R32 and R33 - $260 Location: Mortdale 2223. Can ship anywhere at buyers expense. I will be uploading the photos shortly Please do no hesitate to PM me thank you
  15. I'm chasing a crown wheel with the ratio of 3.583:1 from a R33 NON turbo automatic. They were the only R33's with a ratio that low. Absolute mission to find one as people just throw them out. Any help is appreciated.
  16. Hello everyone, I've recently bought a 1996 R33 from Origin Concepts in Lansvale NSW. I got the car I wanted, but also got a big hassle also. I'm posting this to warn anybody who might try and do business wit these people. I bought a 1996 R33 GTST with 85,000 km on the clock for $11,800. I paid at the upper end of market value as I figured buying from a dealership would eliminate some of the dishonesty. Boy was I wrong!! It turned out that the odometer was faulty and only clocked KMs intermittently; which means the actual KMs are more than what was indicated. I took thecae to Unique Autosports in Castle Hill (very nice people) and paid them to look the car over. They estimate that the car really has between 130k and 150k KMs by the wear and tear on the car. There's some other stuff too, but I won't bore you with it. Anyway, the dealership has refused to own up to selling a car with a faulty odometer and has been jerking me around for the past 30 days with it. I've decided to file a complaint with Fair Trading to see if the can/will help resolve the issue. We will see where that goes... Anyway, be warned and do NOT buy things from these people without having them checked out by someone else BEFORE you give them any money! In the meantime, I will be surfing this site to get ideas on things to do to the car and places to buy parts from. Thanks for reading and spread the bad news so nobody else get take advantage of!
  17. *** GROUP BUY OPPORTUNITY *** I am now the official distributor for Zleds in Australia. What that means is I'm able to offer significant discounts to the DIY kits for the R32 rear LED conversion kit. I am setting up a group buy to reduce shipping price on the consumer end as they are from the United States. These lights retail for more than $600 USD or about $835 AUD, this group buy will see the price cut in half at 400$ AUD with shipping included. The minimum buy is 5 sets. The lights can be customised how ever you would like for additional cost. (Depending on how creative you get between 30-95$ for what you come up with.) I can also get these boards made for the R33, R34 and R35. However the templates for the R33 and R34 have a 2-3 week lead time to be developed. The R35 already has a template if you would like them send me a pm to discuss pricing. I am also able to install the boards for you for an additional $150 with supply of the lights to be fitted. Awaken your GTR with quality Zleds rear led conversion kits. I have had these installed on my own GTR below for over a year and a half with no issues what so ever. The lights also can be set to pulse on braking or changed to be the "NISMO" style ring LEDs if you prefer. What you come up with is limited only by your imagination. I have included the YouTube link below as well to see the lights in action. (Many of the NSW guys have seen them already and can attest to the build quality) 'Nismo' styled lights Conversion 1 style If you would like to order please send me a message or you can email me at ricardowilliamsATright2drive DOT com DOT au Before any of the boards are purchased I will need to meet the minimum buy. For R32 boards it's 5 orders, the R33 and R34 are 7 as they will need to be made for the larger halos in the R34 lights and larger turn signal in the R33 light. Pricing for the R33 conversion is 490 and the R34 is 525. These prices only reflect GROUP BUY pricing. Please note that these are also base price minus the sequential brake upgrade. I have attached a few photos to view of them on my own car, Please send enquiries to my email - ricardowilliamsATright2drive DOT com DOT au You can also visit www.zledslights.com to view the current lights available and styles of others already done. Alternatively you can send me a message on facebook.
  18. Hey guys, Im selling a R33 GTSt Series 2 Type M 40th Anniversary Bumper Bar Lip. Genuine Nissan part - guaranteed excellent fit, not like aftermarket fibreglass copies that never fit as good as original! Great condition with a couple of small cracks and scuffs as you would expect for a 19 year old part. Please inspect photos carefully for exact condition. $250 Located Melbournes east. Will freight at buyers expense but would prefer not to, as Lip is extremely easy to break. Will arrange options with buyer such as wooden box packing etc. Cheers, Mat. O4OO558O3O
  19. Hello I bought these parts to upgrade my Gts-t but i ended up selling it so they are just wasting space now. Hypergear ATR43SS2 turbo with braided oil feeding line - $1200(Came of Stao's test car and never used after that) JECS 550cc side feed injectors - $ 350(Still sealed in package) Gizzmo MS-2 boost controller - $300(Bought it used but still in good condition) Bosch 040 fuel pump - $180(Still sealed in package) JECS Z32 Air flow meter - $70 (Used) Located Berwick, Melbourne sms or email me - [email protected] 0452236382 Will ship interstate at buyer's cost Thank you Tinashe
  20. The aircon pump in my R33 died a few months ago, so I'm looking around for a working replacement in good condition. Note the aircon pumps do vary across Skyline models, so please check if the part number is an exact match to "506221-1102" Airconditioning Compressor ZEXEL Type DKV-14D Part No 506221-1102 Nissan Part No KLHOO-PAGRO PM me if you have one available. I'm in Melb the week of the 15thDec, so can pay cash if you are located in Melb. Otherwise via PayPal. Cheers, Blair
  21. This one is worth having a look at.
  22. From the album: SkidPig

    Finishing touches for the day
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