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This is a rare car, the babyzilla. All the makings of a GTR, but with an RB20DET. Think of it as a GTR on a Beer budget. Still relatively stock, only slight modifcations. Upgraded to R33 turbo Red devil front mount intercooler Turbo smart BOV Turbo Smart adjustable boost controller Turbo Timer 18" Wheels Panasonic MP3 stereo 15" subwoofer This has been a great car, have owned for 8 years, sad to see go, however, have upgraded to an R34 GTR. $10000 ono inc safety certificate photos : http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/nissan-skyline-1989-14831389

RB20DET Manual Black 133,541 km First owner in Australia, I imported the car in 2004 Stock interior in good condition Factory fitted sunroof Paint is in average condition, front bumper is scratched Intermittent hesitation on startup, throttle needs a blip. Most likely carbon build up in the idle air control valve. Easy fix. Registration expires Jan 2015 Price: $7500 (negotiable) with RWC Contact: Ray on 0414 420 375 or PM Modifications Engine: • Cooling Pro front mount intercooler • R34 Series 2 Turbo running 13psi • 3inch Flying Performance dump pipe • 3inch HKS Silent High Power Stainless Steel Cat back exhaust • Hi flow cat • Apexi pod filter • Dr Drift ECU Remap • Turbotech Boost Controller • Walbro Fuel Pump Suspension/Brakes: • New RDA slotted/dimpled rotors front and rear • New Remsa brake pads front and rear • Nolathane camber adjustable front control arm bushes • Front strut brace Exterior: • 18x8 inch DTM wheels • HID Xenon Headlights • LED Parker Lights Interior/Stereo: • Autoguage Oil and Boost Pressure Gauge • DEI Viper alarm with remote start, window wind up/down and remote boot release • Sound deadened doors • Pioneer 12inch subwoofer 400WRMS • 6.5inch Jaycar Precision Response Kevlar Splits front speakers • 6inch Pioneer rear speakers 30WRMS • Jaycar Response Amplifier 4x130WRMS • JVC Headunit • Blue LED cluster and HVAC control • White LED Interior lights

I've just fitted some Splitfire SF-DIS-001 coilpacks. Initial test shows a big improvement. The car now starts instantly and no more misfire under acceleration. Not bad for an hour's work. The manual has a warning saying that after fitting them, you may get knocking/detonation and should adjust the timing to suit. I'm fairly sure the timing isn't adjustable on these engines. Is that the case? Should I be disconnecting the battery to do an ECU reset, or is that not a thing on these ECUs? I'm also thinking that next time I go into that area, I want to get rid of the pointless cover. Literally the only use it serves is to provide a mount for the power transistor. Question is where is a good place to relocate the power transistor to? Should I just cut the cover down to just the last 4 screws as even this will make it less annoying to deal with as it won't conflict with the J pipe. Anything else I should know?

1992 R32 Skyline GTS-t, RB20DET, 5 speed manual, 5 months rego, 11 months pink, Genuine 68,000 kms on engine and gearbox, stock motor, chassis has 120,000kms, HKS2530 turbo, Buddy Club race spec coil overs, no air con, car used for super sprints and club events only. Not a daily driver. 10 years of development put into this car, needs some bodywork, paint is average, refer photos. GTR grill, fibreglass front guards, K&N pod filter, cold air box and feed, Turbosmart bleed valve, Z32 airflow meter, Greddy intercooler, custom oil catch can with oil return, GFB plumb back blow off valve, Silicone turbo intake, Exedy heavy duty clutch, new rear hubs, battery relocated in boot, full aftermarket suspension control arms front and rear upper and lower, rose jointed , front homemade splitter, road tyres are 40% worn, DBA front rotors, 900 deg front pads, 700 deg rear pads, braided brake lines, Greddy oil cooler, whiteline front and rear sway bars, front camber arms, cradle pineapples, GTR 440cc injectors, GTR dropping resistor, Bosch 040 in tank hi flow fuel pump, short shift kit, 225kw @ wheels @ 16psi, 300km speedo, suede steering wheel, Apexi monster tacho with shift light. EPROM tune by Dr Drift. Alloy radiator, twin thermo fans, full silicone lines and hoses.Split stainless 3" front/ dump pipe, hi flow cat, HKS 3" cat back exhaust and cannon muffler, So much time and money put into this car over $25k spent, Lots of extras available depending on price. Some extras include Dmax style carbon bonnet, 17" Buddy club P1 race wheels with Kumho V70A semi slicks 245's, Autotecnica race seat. Call for details, no joyrides tolerated. Only serious buyers pls. Best time around E.C. 1.49.35. Very regretful sale, hoping it finds a good home. Sale due to wife and buying a house. Still great on the road and is a sleeper, No mechanical issues, never been drifted or abused. $7500, offers considered, no swaps. Contact Andrew, 0404027957 [email protected]

as title states, chasing an r34 side mount cooler or an ARC 32 side mount, and an R32 turbo airbox I'm located in the eastern suburbs of melb but am frequently in the west, willing to pay for shipping on ARC cooler if somebody has one kicking around

R32 GTST UP FOR SALE JAPAN IMPORTED in JUNE 2002 LOCATION: ADELAIDE, SA TRANS: 5-MT ENGINE: RB20DET 2.0L turbo (great on fuel) COLOR: WHITE WITH CENTRAL LOCKING & ALARM SYSTEM, AIR CON, ELECTRIC WINDOW & MIRROR **FULL SOUND SYSTEM with DVD INSATLLED** **CLEAN INTERIOR & EVEN EXTERIOR AS ALWAYS GARAGED** **PRETTY FAST CAR** RECENTLY SERVICED: -THROTTLE BODY ALL CLEANED -NEW ENGINE OIL -NEW UPGRADE RADIATOR & COOLANT -NEW POWER STEERING OIL -NEW NGK IRIDIUM SPARK PLUGS & SPLITFIRE COILPACKS -NEW CLUTCH OIL WITH NEW CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER & SLAVE SYLINDER -NEW BRAKE OIL -NEW TRANS OIL -NEW DIFF OIL -NEW BENDIX ULTIMATE BRAKE PADS & BRAKE LINES -NEW OIL FILTER -NEW K&N AIR FILTER -NEW PERFORMANCE BATTERY -NEW FUEL FILTER -NEW TYRES ALL AROUND 1 MONTHS AGO -SERVICE EVERY 5000km MODS: -R33 HIGH FLOW TURBO INSATLLED -HDI FRONT MOUNT INTERCOOLER -MOD on the STOCK BOV -NEW XTREME HD DRIFT CLUTCH & FLYWHEEL about 1 month old -STARCORP IMPUL WHITE 225/40R18 FRONT & 235/40R18 REAR -CHROME TIMING BELT COVER -GTR SPOILER -NEW PEDDERS ADJUSTABLE SUSPENSION LOWERED BUT LEGAL (GREAT HANDLING) -UPGRADED SWAY BAR FRONT & REAR -FRONT STRUT BRACE -FULL EXHAUST SYSTEM WITH 3.5" MUFFLER -K&N AIR INTAKE SYSTEM **NEVER OVERHEATED** <<<<<WELL MAINTAINED & ULP98 or VPOWER ALL THE TIME, FEW MONTHS REGO LEFT.........COME & DRIVE AWAY>>>>>> **AFTER $8.5K ONO** **VERY NEGOTIABLE** **WILLING TO SWAP FOR SOMETHING ELSE WITH CASH ADJUSTMENT** ---> SILVIA or ANYTHING TURBO MANUAL **FEEL FREE TO TEXT ME ANYTIME FOR MORE DETAILS OR EMAIL ME**

Haven't really had the time or money to put towards my GTS lately and I'm unsure about what's going on with my work next year, So I thought I'd put it up here in the hopes that it can go to a good home and get the care it deserves. I'm in no real hurry to sell this, And will be slowly trying to get bits and pieces done on it. Make/Model: Nissan Skyline, SVD GTS1 Year: 1988 Kilometers: 291,580 on cluster. Not sure if this is the original cluster Transmission type: R32 5 speed Engine: R32 RB20DET Colour: Resprayed in Suzuki "White pearl mica" Modifications: •R32 silver top RB20DET •RB25 Crank •RB26 Rods •Forged pistons 40thou oversized •Ross Tuff bond metal jacket harmonic balancer •Ported Head •Red top cams (longer duration) •Adjustable cam gears •O ringed head •Copper head gasket •Stainless high mount manifold •Garrett GT3072R •Braided oil/water lines •TiAL 38mm external wastegate (1bar) •Wolf3D V4 with handset, boost controller •Turbosmart BOV •Big "Deka Intimidator" AGM battery in box in boot •NSW Engineers Certificate •QLD Mod plate Registered: Yes, until 04/12 Accident History: None that I know of Asking Price: $6500, Will consider any reasonable offers. Location: Penrith, NSW Contact Details: PM me on here, or Call/Text O4O1 331 668 Other Comments: Needs some work. •Has a little rust coming up in the drivers side door jam and also in the boot under the spare. •Needs a new booster/master. Will be doing this as soon as funds allow for it. •Needs new clutch/ gearbox. I have a spare gearbox ready to go in, Just gotta get a clutch. •Needs a tune •Needs new tail lights, The ones currently on the car are cracked and leak water into the boot (hence rust under spare) •Needs some suspension work. Bushes and whatever. Has a few scratches on the paintwork, The worst probably being on the drivers side front corner where someone ran into me while I was parked when I first got the car. The drivers side seat is a bit torn on the side, which is why I have a seat cover on it. Thats all I can think of for now.

I'm posting this for my brother. He is selling his project car to get a fully street legal r33. Nissan Silvia 1990 2.0l turbo - $4,000 *rego august 2013 (*no engineer cert. serious buys perfect for track ,some work required for street rego) rb20det with front mount intercooler Exedy heavy duty clutch Pod filter tuned 2 stage Greddy boost controller 9/11psi adjustable tien coilover suspension 17"WHEELS front - 235 rear - 255 enkei r32 5 stud wheels2(Can also be sold with stock r33 rims) r32 gear box r32 gtr lsd LSD Boost gauge and rpm gauge HID headlight yellow factory fog lamps electric thermo fan new sports steering wheel and boss kit new ign coils spare set of rear tyres all oils and coolant replaced 5,000km ago engine has 80,000km no sterio system installed, has front speakers. no leaks or drive problems looking to sell asap! PM ANY INTERESTS! CHEERS! or call Phil on 0466 406 575.

It has come time to sell my 180sx, I have owned this for almost a year now but due to work and life commitments it doesent see much use, I drive it from sydney to newcastle on weekends, mainly highway ks, A fair amount of money has been spent on this car and the new owner will get alot of enjoyment from it. As with all cars of this age there not perfect, the car spends week days in sydney(orchard hills) and weekends in newcastle. ENGINE- RB20DET RB25 op6 turbo 3' exhaust with varex cannon water to air intercooler pod filter custom made air box gk teck oil cooler and relocation filter alloy radiator 2x 12' thermo fans SUSPENSION- hsd hr coilovers driftshop castor driftshop camber driftshop alloy collars front strut brace rear carbon fibre strut brace custom made rear seat belt brace SuperPro bushes gk tech 5mm tie rod spacer hyperflex polyurathane bushes replace all existing rubber bushes white line front 27mm heavy duty blade adjustable for rb conversion whiteline Rear Sway bar - 22mm X heavy duty blade adjustable DRIVELINE- rb20det gearbox r32 gtr exedy sports organic clutch kaaz 1.5way diff BRAKES- r32 gts calipers r32 gts discs redrilled to 4 stud BODY- ca front bar nismo side skirts copy vertex rear bar jap roof wing flares rear gaurds stretch front gaurds dark tints INTERIOR- r32 gts front seats saber oil pressure saber oil temp saber boost saber water temp gauges elevo racing style steering wheel velo 5 point harness stripped rear seats battery relocated into boot WHEELS- rota rb wheels fronts- 16x8 +4 20mm bolt on spacer rears- 17x9 -13 for this price you will also get: -A set of 17in rims -A z32 afm with plug -A plug in link ecu in rb20det housing -044 fuel pump -r32 gtr 444cc injectors -r33 gtr cam shafts -just jap rb cam gears -arc bov -pair of frp 25mm wider front guards comes with rear seats and seat belts - not installed PRICE $11000 contact pm or on 0431 445 349 cheers, dan

Hey All, I have decided to list my R32. I have owned it for 9 or so years and it runs beautifully. I have had no major dramas and she has been very reliable. 1992 R32 GTS-T Skyline 148XXX kms RB20DET 5 Speed Manual – Standard 32 box Sun Roof Alarm with remote central lockingIntegrated with Turbo Timer Regased, cold Air Con Xtreme Lightened Fly Wheel Xtreme 9 puck ceramic clutch RB25 Turbo from R34 Greddy Profec B Spec II EBC Apexi Boost Gauge HKS BOV Yellow Jacket Coil Packs GTR Fuel Pump GTR Injectors Front Mount Intercooler K&N POD Filter Apexi Oil catch can setup 17” Volk TE37 Rims Near new 245/45 tyres on back Brand new (with complete balance and alignment) 235/45 tyres on front Rims are in OK condition Some gutter rash and paint chips Slotted front rotors Full exhaust Kakimoto muffler\exhaust Just Jap Dump HICAS removed with Lock Bar Tinting HID Lights Cusco Front Strut Bar Bilstein Shocks Momo course steering wheel 7 Inch Touch Screen Includes net book (with all software) for PC Integration This can be upgraded to intel NUC or the like. Hooked in to ECU for real time stats (And tuning if you were that way inclined) Stereo Front splits Rear speakers 10 inch subby 2 x amps Battery about 6-12 months old Oil changed at least every 6 months with 5/50 fully synthentic. Oil & filter just changed Only ever used BP Ultimate 98 Just had R/H ball joint, both tie rod ends and both steering rack boots replaced Car was tuned by Allstar Garage and made ~263 HP at the wheels. All paperwork provided. Some spare parts I am happy to throw in. Original drivers seat, Old turbo, coil packs, injectors etc etc. This car has been to the drags once and the track once. It has never been drifted. Car has been garaged or under a car port for its life. Reason for selling is that I now have a young daughter and it rarely gets driven. I am reluctant to sell, but I would rather it be owned by someone who has the time (and money) to invest in this car (and hopefully not drift it...) This car is in very good condition. There are some small paint chips and little dings but that is to be expected for a car of this age. But overall condition is very good. $12,000 negotiable. It is hard to find a nicely kept R32 these days, and I am in no rush to sell. 3 Months rego, just renewed. Feel free to call me on 0403439663 or PM me. -Bernhard Spits

So, I currently do not run a bov of any kind. My setup, RB20, hypergear op6 highflow, usual supporting mods. Nistune. 240rwkw. With a fair smack of lag, lol. In past non-bov equiped cars, i've had the zu tututu/ compressor chop/ dose noise. When fitted with a bov, obviously the noise goes away, but difference in performance, or boost drop off between gears felt negligible. (as what most things I've read/searched) Current setup however, feels a bit different. If I get it on boost (>12psi) then lift to change gears, I dont tend to get the compressor chop, just one big choof, almost like an atmo bov. Also notice a fair drop off between gears. So afaik, the 'dose' noise is intake air coming out though the turbo, afm, etc slowing the turbo down (but not completely stopping it) One big choof would potentially mean the turbo is stopping?(or slowing down much more) Also, being a standard size core style turbo, would assume inertia would be rather low, compared to a much larger turbo. Do you guys, in this instance think a bov would assist in getting it back on boost after a gearchange? Cheers

Hey guys, I've got an issue with my RB20DET. When I let it rev out with the throttle only just open, (so no where near boost) around 4500- 5000rpm I am getting a clicking noise that dead set sounds like the engine fan hitting something. The fan has around 3mm of clearance with the harmonic balancer, assumed this would be ok as the fan flex's forward when pulling air through yes? Radial clearance to the shroud is fine, as I'm using a SR fan (they are smaller). The noise I think is still there under full throttle, i just can't hear it. Dont think the noise was there before I did the mods (highflow, nistune, profec b) and had it tuned. Im running a profec b boost controller, found one thread talking about the solenoid clicking, but if I'm on low throttle % and not on boost the solenoid shouldnt be working? Will unplug on way home today to rule it out. Its probably due for a timing belt in 10 000 km, although doubt anything in there could make that noise. Maybe? So before I pull the fan off to rule it out, any other ideas? Cheers

G'day everyone new to the forum and new owner of a 1990 R32 GTS4T 4 door. I have a lot of learning to do and a great list of questions. So I hope I can get some help with all the small to big plans I have for my R32 and get some questions answered. To begin I would like to thank everyone who takes the time to pass on their advice and opinions. I hope I can return the favour in the realm IT/technical support one day and even more so in person if you live in QLD Northside (Buderim Sunshine Coast here). I am currently waiting for the workshop manual to arrive in the mail and hope that a lot of light will be shed on a lot of my questions. But till then here goes. So to begin; I am waiting for delivery of my A/F Ratio gauge and my boost gauge so I am looking to get all wiring run to the locations I will mount them. I think I located the O2 sensor wire pin 29 on the ECCS here I check for 1v reading and fluctuations in the reading when I accelerate. Please confirm I have the correct wire. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpUKb2rBS4Q What is this thing at the rear looks like, 4WS? and these look like stereo related but what they are and what they do I do not know. This forum doesn't allow endless editing so most likely you will see multi posts outside the allotted editing time frame. I apologise for those it annoys.

Hi guys I'm just looking for some assistance in identifying possible problems with my 32. It is relatively stock with a Blitz return-flow FMIC, 3" Dump to High-Flow Cat to 3.5" catback and I believe the stock turbo wound out to 11 psi. It recently underwent a head rebuild after a blown head gasket. (Radiator was replaced with 32 GTR item and thermostat was replaced with Nismo item) After the rebuild it was still spewing a bit of white smoke out the back but that gradually decreased until it stopped altogether after about a month. (You could always tell when it was about to spew a bit of white smoke when the car did it's 'rumble' under deceleration, when you get going again, out comes just enough smoke to see it rise above my spoiler in the rear view mirror) A few weeks after the rebuild I noticed it had started leaking coolant from one of the hoses underneath the intake manifold (above the starter) after I would turn the car off. This happened a handful of times at the beginning then stopped for a month or two. At this point I'm not certain if there's a pinhole or if the clamp just isn't on properly, but when it started again I was able to wriggle my arm under the manifold enough to feel the hose that is leaking. I I am ashamed to admit, I still have not done anything about it. I kept driving the car until last week when I've started noticing a puddle of coolant under the car every second or third time I drove it, directly beneath the overflow tank. Note: I've always been checking my fluid and oil levels since the rebuild and have even bled the coolant from the bleed screw until bubbles stopped. Also, I haven't noticed any mixing of oil & coolant yet, I changed the Greddy (1.3 bar) rad cap for a GKTech (1.3bar) one after the rebuild too. Yesterday I found I have to top up the radiator with about 2 cups worth of coolant and drive to work. (I know I probably shouldn't have) Before I drove home that arvo, checked the rad again as it looked like that hose had been leaking again and found I had to add about another cup of coolant, do so and baby it home. When I got home, left the car running in the garage for about five minutes (couldn't get hot air from the fans either), turned it off and checked the overflow to see if it would boil over again, but noticed it bubbling up all forthy in the overflow like when someone adds too much detergent to the sink, but didn't flow over this time. Come back to the garage later after letting the engine cool down and check the rad, it has lost a little more coolant but can still see it above the fins. The car still drives quite fun otherwise, no white smoke for months and the temperature gauge still sits in slightly above centre. I plan to get that hose replaced, the coolant system flushed and pressure tested, cylinder compression tested and a leak down test performed if compression is bad. If someone can recommend the closest workshop to Mount Gravatt East with a good rep fir working on Skylines that would be great. Otherwise I'll go back to the MIDAS that was quite honest with me recently. I'm freaking out that my HG is on the way out again. (Oil and Coolant still look OK, no milky residue) I guess I'm just looking for confirmation from people who know better, or suggestions on what else I should be doing.

So an exhaust leak has appeared in my rb20det, to be honest unsure whether it's the exhaust manifold gasket (half are studs and half are bolts :?) or turbo outlet gasket (only sporting 3 out of the 6 bolts and studs. So im planning to replace all the gasket around the turbo and exhaust mani at the same time. So I'm swinging between either buying a few Cometic gaskets to cover my needs??? or buying a full complete OEM gasket kit (I know I don't need them all but its just as cheap)??? This car has been getting built for a few years now, so I do plan to get some power into her. I already have a cometic triple layer steel head gasket and arp head bolts. Basically my question is, if I plan to run say about 18-20+ pound of boost in the near future, which gaskets would hold the boost more efficiently and more safely? 'Cometic or OEM'?? I have done a Google Search and what not, but didn't get me the info I needed Thanks people

Hi, I have a 1990 R32 Gtst, 5 speed manual for sale. Asking $3k and take it away. The only reason for selling the car is that I need some space in the garage and I don't have the time to complete the car. The car runs well and is 90% standard. It would be perfect for someone looking for a project or even just for parting out. I've owned the car since 2006. It has approx 184,000km's on the dial. The car has been meticulously cared for. It has only been driven twice in the last 18 months but is started regularly. The car is currently in primer with some of the rear interior trims removed, otherwise the car is complete and runs perfectly. I've got a spare straight through exhaust for the car in addition to the exhaust already fitted. Car is currently unregistered so collection of the vehicle would need to be on a temporary permit or picked up on a flatbed. Located in Carrum Downs, Melbourne. Cheers.

I did a static compression test on the weekend and came up with the following results. CYL 1 100psi CYL 2 100psi CYL 3 100psi CYL 4 100psi but leaked to 0 psi in 1min 40 sec CYL 5 100psi but leaked to 0 psi in 30 sec CYL 6 would not hold above 60psi unter cranking. what gets me the eng runs smooth and is still making decent power. It goes to the tuners on tuesday as i have fitted a bigger turbo. Just wondering what people think of the results.

For anybody about to venture into the world of a rebuild, turbo change, intercooler change, or a general increase in power would benefit from understanding it's not just about whacking a bigger turbo on, or winding the boost up! There is a science to it, & here is are some pretty good links, full of information & equations. http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/turboflow.html Here is a simple calculator if you know your figures: http://www.stealth316.com/2-turbotemp.htm Intercooler sizing write up: http://www.turboneticsinc.com/sites/default/files/AllAboutIntercooling.pdf Hope these help.

Hi all, I was a member about 6 years ago and now I got myself a fresh import gtst so I'm back in the game. Just received my 32 off the boat and was so excited to have another 32 in my life but... my joy was short lived. After a initial drive, i noticed the car was losing power at random points and when i put the foot down it suddenly goes again and loses power again. This was the first problem. second is when I had to stop behind another vehicle, at low rpm even with my foot down on the clutch, the car shut down completely so I had to quickly restart it. I initially drove home and after the first 10 mins of problems, it behaved OK even in the evening when I took it out again and gave it a good run (That's what I thought it needed after being stationary fir a while) This morning, I gave my new baby a wash and a wax and started the car to warm it up and went inside the house, 5 mins later I went out again because it was too quiet, but to my surprise and horror, the car shut down by itself.... I attempted to start it and it did, for about 5 seconds and RPM dropped and died. this repeated about 3 times before I left it alone for about 10 mins before attempting it again. 10 mins later it started after I put my foot down and it somehow managed to stay alive. I went for a drive and just around the corner when I stopped at an intersection, it died again. My first skyline had a similar issue, from memory it was the Air Flow Meter. I was reading the posts and found some similar cases but wanted your inputs in diagnosing what it could be. The car is a 1993 R32 GTST done 67km Japanese auction grade 4. its got a ARC super induction box, aftermarket intercooler, and a non vent to air bov. My first guess is either the AFM or the TPS or coilpack. since it sometimes takes a bit of crank to start her up. Please let me know what you think.

Hi, I bought this exhaust manifold while I had a Datsun 280ZX with a RB20DET installed, I ended up selling the car and have no use for this so want to sell it. It is a top mount stainless steel exhaust manifold with 2mm wall tubes to suit the RB20DET but it should fit most if not all RB engines. It has a T25 flange to fit the Garrett GT2860RS and has a polished finish. It also comes with a sheet stainless turbo heat shield (shown) and no waste gate (as I was going to use it with a GT2860RS) but you could mod it to have one if need be. It is still in the box it came with, and is completely new, never used. I am now building a car from the ground up and as I have no use for it and would like $380 for it + Shipping, if you are interested in this and in the Sydney/Wollongong area I can arrange a pick-up, otherwise let me know where you would like it shipped to and I’ll find out how much it will cost to post to the address. I am also trying to sell a set of Pro drive wheels they are 17” x 8.5” with a 5x114.3 stud pattern and 34mm ET offset originally off an EVO. They are too big for the car I'm building otherwise I would use them in the design. I’d like $1500 (think these rims are about $3000-$4000 new) for the set. Or if you would like both the wheels and the exhaust I will sell both as a pack for $1800.

Willis's Garage Cleanout! Location; Sydney NSW (Western Suburbs) Ok so i have just sold my skyline. Trying to clear out some space. Send any offers through via PM. Regards, please don't msg me asking if i have thing's that are not listed. Thanks. Engine / Driveline; RB20DET Engine (no turbo, no coilpacks, no power steering pump, no aircon compressor and no starter motor) comp test 130 PSI across cold, removed for RB25 conversion. - $500 RB20DET Gearbox (average condition, second gear synchro is pretty shot it's fine when rev matching though.. gearbox whine in 1st and 2nd gear's) removed for RB25 conversion, includes RB20 Clutch Slave - $300 RB20DET Driveshaft (good condition) removed for RB25 conversion - $150 RB20DET / 25 S1 Throttle Position Sensor - $40 RB20DET Radiator + Shroud - No leaks, no corrosion, removed for Aluminium Radiator Upgrade - $100 RB20 Clutch Master Cylinder - $60 RB20 Clutch Slave Cylinder - $20 Exterior; Front bar as pictured (pretty average condition, would suit drift pig) - $40 LH + RH Doors (Gunmetal Grey), average condition, includes windows and everything else found in the door, includes door skins - $150 LH + RH Guards in average condition (Gunmetal Grey)- $150 R32 GTR N1 Headlights, Immaculate - $250 pair (no mount for grill, can be bought from nissan for cheap..) Exhaust; RB26 FRONT PIPES (twin 2.5" inlets to 3" rear) contact damage with ground - $50 3" Jasma approved cat-back suit R32, includes catalytic converter - $150 Suspension; HCR32 OEM Camber Arms - $50 HCR32 OEM Castor Arms - $50 Driftworks HICAS Lockout Kit, BYO bolt's etc - $150 GK tech adjustable castor arms V2 suit s13/180/r32/a31, billet 7075-T6 aluminium construction BRAND NEW IN BOX - $120 (rrp 150) Braided Brake Lines - $60 Driftworks Solid Subframe Risers (new in box) - $80 Interior; Skyline Door Trims (kick panels), both in good condition - $20 pair Sparco Pedals + OEM Pedal Box's, Clutch, Accelerator and Brake - $120 R32 GTR NISMO CLUSTER 260kph / 10k rpm ODO 78568 - $300 R32 Ash Tray - $30 Apexi Pen Turbo Timer - $50 Drift Button GK TECH - $10 Wheels; Work VS-MX 17 x 8 +22 and 17 x 9 +22 pcd 5x114.3 & 4x114.3 17 x 8 +22. No buckles, wheels have rash as pictured. These are genuine 3 piece items, i bought them with the intention to rebuild with larger lips. The front's require spacers to clear 32 GTR brakes. The 8's come wrapped in 205/40r17 as pictured. The rears are in similar condition, have more dish and no tyres. - $1200 ono Kosei 17 x 8 +38 and 17 x 9 +38 wrapped in 235/45r17 & 255/40r17 Bridgestone Adrenaline's (tyres are down to wear markers, camber worn, wheels have rash, structurally sound) - $700 Rays Gram Lights 17 x 9.5 + 36 PAIR ONLY(tyres are dead) - $400 Random parts; Trust Front Mount I/C NO PIPING - $150 R32 GTR Resistor Pack (to run 32 GTR Injectors on a RB20) homemade - $50 SCA Engine Crane as new! used once then stored in garage! - $250 K&N Intake Pod Filters suit RB26 - $50 S13 / 180SX SR20 Oil feed hardline, not leaking bought as a fix for my old leaking one - $30 Thanks! Willis.

Willis's Garage Cleanout! Location; Sydney NSW (Western Suburbs) Ok so i have just sold my skyline. Trying to clear out some space. Send any offers through via PM. Regards, please don't msg me asking if i have thing's that are not listed. Thanks. Engine / Driveline; RB20DET Engine (no turbo, no coilpacks, no power steering pump, no aircon compressor and no starter motor) comp test 130 PSI across cold, removed for RB25 conversion. - $500 RB20DET Gearbox (average condition, second gear synchro is pretty shot it's fine when rev matching though.. gearbox whine in 1st and 2nd gear's) removed for RB25 conversion, includes RB20 Clutch Slave - $300 RB20DET Driveshaft (good condition) removed for RB25 conversion - $150 RB20DET / 25 S1 Throttle Position Sensor - $40 RB20DET Radiator + Shroud - No leaks, no corrosion, removed for Aluminium Radiator Upgrade - $100 RB20 Clutch Master Cylinder - $60 RB20 Clutch Slave Cylinder - $20 Exterior; Front bar as pictured (pretty average condition, would suit drift pig) - $40 LH + RH Doors (Gunmetal Grey), average condition, includes windows and everything else found in the door, includes door skins - $150 LH + RH Guards in average condition (Gunmetal Grey)- $150 R32 GTR N1 Headlights, Immaculate - $250 pair (no mount for grill, can be bought from nissan for cheap..) Exhaust; RB26 FRONT PIPES (twin 2.5" inlets to 3" rear) contact damage with ground - $50 3" Jasma approved cat-back suit R32, includes catalytic converter - $150 Suspension; HCR32 OEM Camber Arms - $50 HCR32 OEM Castor Arms - $50 Driftworks HICAS Lockout Kit, BYO bolt's etc - $150 GK tech adjustable castor arms V2 suit s13/180/r32/a31, billet 7075-T6 aluminium construction BRAND NEW IN BOX - $120 (rrp 150) Braided Brake Lines - $60 Driftworks Solid Subframe Risers (new in box) - $80 Interior; Skyline Door Trims (kick panels), both in good condition - $20 pair Sparco Pedals + OEM Pedal Box's, Clutch, Accelerator and Brake - $120 R32 GTR NISMO CLUSTER 260kph / 10k rpm ODO 78568 - $300 R32 Ash Tray - $30 Apexi Pen Turbo Timer - $50 Drift Button GK TECH - $10 Wheels; Work VS-MX 17 x 8 +22 and 17 x 9 +22 pcd 5x114.3 & 4x114.3 17 x 8 +22. No buckles, wheels have rash as pictured. These are genuine 3 piece items, i bought them with the intention to rebuild with larger lips. The front's require spacers to clear 32 GTR brakes. The 8's come wrapped in 205/40r17 as pictured. The rears are in similar condition, have more dish and no tyres. - $1200 ono Kosei 17 x 8 +38 and 17 x 9 +38 wrapped in 235/45r17 & 255/40r17 Bridgestone Adrenaline's (tyres are down to wear markers, camber worn, wheels have rash, structurally sound) - $700 Random parts; Trust Front Mount I/C NO PIPING - $150 R32 GTR Resistor Pack (to run 32 GTR Injectors on a RB20) homemade - $50 SCA Engine Crane as new! used once then stored in garage! - $250 K&N Intake Pod Filters suit RB26 - $50 S13 / 180SX SR20 Oil feed hardline, not leaking bought as a fix for my old leaking one - $30 Thanks! Willis.

Willis's Garage Cleanout! Location; Sydney NSW (Western Suburbs) Ok so i have just sold my skyline. Trying to clear out some space. Send any offers through via PM. Regards, please don't msg me asking if i have thing's that are not listed. Thanks. Engine / Driveline; RB20DET Engine (no turbo, no coilpacks, no power steering pump, no aircon compressor and no starter motor) comp test 130 PSI across cold, removed for RB25 conversion. - $500 RB20DET Gearbox (average condition, second gear synchro is pretty shot it's fine when rev matching though.. gearbox whine in 1st and 2nd gear's) removed for RB25 conversion, includes RB20 Clutch Slave - $300 RB20DET Driveshaft (good condition) removed for RB25 conversion - $150 RB20DET / 25 S1 Throttle Position Sensor - $40 RB20DET Radiator + Shroud - No leaks, no corrosion, removed for Aluminium Radiator Upgrade - $100 RB20 Clutch Master Cylinder - $60 RB20 Clutch Slave Cylinder - $20 Exterior; Front bar as pictured (pretty average condition, would suit drift pig) - $40 LH + RH Doors (Gunmetal Grey), average condition, includes windows and everything else found in the door, includes door skins - $150 LH + RH Guards in average condition (Gunmetal Grey)- $150 R32 GTR N1 Headlights, Immaculate - $250 pair (no mount for grill, can be bought from nissan for cheap..) Exhaust; RB26 FRONT PIPES (twin 2.5" inlets to 3" rear) contact damage with ground - $50 3" Jasma approved cat-back suit R32, includes catalytic converter - $150 Suspension; HCR32 OEM Camber Arms - $50 HCR32 OEM Castor Arms - $50 Driftworks HICAS Lockout Kit, BYO bolt's etc - $150 GK tech adjustable castor arms V2 suit s13/180/r32/a31, billet 7075-T6 aluminium construction BRAND NEW IN BOX - $120 (rrp 150) Braided Brake Lines - $60 Driftworks Solid Subframe Risers (new in box) - $80 Interior; Skyline Door Trims (kick panels), both in good condition - $20 pair Sparco Pedals + OEM Pedal Box's, Clutch, Accelerator and Brake - $120 R32 GTR NISMO CLUSTER 260kph / 10k rpm ODO 78568 - $300 R32 Ash Tray - $30 Apexi Pen Turbo Timer - $50 Drift Button GK TECH - $10 Wheels; Work VS-MX 17 x 8 +22 and 17 x 9 +22 pcd 5x114.3 & 4x114.3 17 x 8 +22. No buckles, wheels have rash as pictured. These are genuine 3 piece items, i bought them with the intention to rebuild with larger lips. The front's require spacers to clear 32 GTR brakes. The 8's come wrapped in 205/40r17 as pictured. The rears are in similar condition, have more dish and no tyres. - $1200 ono Kosei 17 x 8 +38 and 17 x 9 +38 wrapped in 235/45r17 & 255/40r17 Bridgestone Adrenaline's (tyres are down to wear markers, camber worn, wheels have rash, structurally sound) - $700 Random parts; Trust Front Mount I/C NO PIPING - $150 R32 GTR Resistor Pack (to run 32 GTR Injectors on a RB20) homemade - $50 SCA Engine Crane as new! used once then stored in garage! - $250 K&N Intake Pod Filters suit RB26 - $50 S13 / 180SX SR20 Oil feed hardline, not leaking bought as a fix for my old leaking one - $30 Thanks! Willis.

rb20det came out of my import r32. Reason I took it out, well long story short, my friend 'upgraded' his 32 to rb25 and his nice ported polished cammed... ect rb20 was for sale. I bought that engine and put it in my 32. Reason for sale, I now have a nice fat bill from my mechanic. engine was running fine before I took it out, was running stock turbo on stock boost. I would recommend a little freshen up before it was started again, eg. timing belt, seals, plugs ect but you would do that anyways.... comes with out - dump pipes - turbo - loom - and a couple lil bolts here and there, but these would all be replaced anyways... what you see in pictures is what you get, engine can be picked up from south eastern suburbs Melbourne. how to contact me: email - elnero55 * @ * gmail.com (remove stars and spaces) - Mobile 0404 964 537 $800ono (im reasonable, no stupid offers look how much they sell for at wreckers and ebay first...)

First checkout the link below for proof I'm an ebay POWER SELLER and can be trusted to post items: http://feedback.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=iphone.addiction&ftab=FeedbackAsSeller USED Z32 AFM / MAF from 300ZX VG30DETT N62 AFM Size 3" (80MM) Very common upgrade for SR20DET / CA18DET / KA24DE / RB25DET / RB26DETT / RB20DET / VG30DETT and many others. Good upgrade to measuring more air flow when stock AFM / MAF gives up, these are good for up to 500hp. Used but in very good condition, includes the rubber O-ring on the inlet side + Tomei Plug with loom. I've personally bench tested this AFM's before offering it for sale & if you need installation instructions I may be able to help. $200 Pick up from Wyndham Vale VIC & sometimes Dover Heights NSW Postage with Tracking $18 or with Signature $22 Contact Brett [email protected]