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Hi all, I have for sale some standard components from an RB25 we have recently upgraded the manifolds/turbo etc on, all parts are off a 90k motor in excellent working condition prior to removal. Standard RB25 Intake manifold, both halves with gasket. Missing sensors, TB and water pipes but great for modifying to front facing or replacing a damaged item. $$Offers Standard Nissan Rb25 fuel injectors in great working condition with fuel rail - $$Offers. HKS Speed Limit Defender piggyback ECU was on both my RB20 and RB25 to remove the 180kmh limit quote from HKS- "The HKS SLD is a must when wanting to go faster than the factory settings will allow. The HKS SLD is an electronic device designed to eliminate the vehicle's factory speed limiter.Fits many vehicles by simply splicing into the loom." - I just spliced 2 wires on the RB ECUs $$Offers. Standard RB25 Crossover Pipe with BOV - $$Offers BOV Return hard lines $10. Charcoal Canister $10 Standard R32 GTS-t Clutch Master cylinder in perfect working order only removed to run a shorter r33 item to suit manifold $40. Will also have available in the next week or so... Standard RB25 Manual ECU from a S1 perfect working order $100 Standard RB20/RB25DET exhaust/Turbo manifold, great condition $75 ONO Standard RB20det turbo, no smoke minimal shaft play, from 100K motor that has never been overboosted. may include standard Dump pipe $150 Standard Rubber intake pipe to AFM $$Offers If you interested in any of these parts send me a message - 0401739292 make an offer need the $$ for Power cruise!! Can supply pictures!

As heading says, 1999 R34 Skyline GTT Drift car for sale, this car has it all, jump in and drift. Plenty of power, super reliable, nothing needs to be done. Has had big money spent on it: Hotside:Garrett 35/40, Highmount exhaust manifold, Tial 38mm external gate, 4" dump pipe (exhaust exits out under the passenger door), Inlet: Greddy style plenum, 90mm throttle body,Cometic Headgasket, Fuel: Billet fuel rail, Bosch Indy Blue 1600cc injectors, Aeromotive fuel reg and 2x 044 pumps, surge tank and fuel cell in the boot - all braided lines. Car runs on E85 Others: Brass button clutch, locked diff, coilovers all round, thermos, 18x10 wheels + more Car has been completely resprayed matte black and the engine bay has been painted silver. Interior has been completely gutted, all that remains is the dash and 2 bucket seats, custom alloy door trims have been made up, push button start. Everything is either painted black or wrapped in carbon fibre, very neat car, is definately built to impress. Plates not included. Car is only for drift/drag/track work - cant be registered. Car makes 455rwhp on a very safe tune. $17k No time wasters Any questions contact Adam on 0406039425 - dont PM this, this isnt my car. Pics: Pics below

I am after an RB25 gearbox shifter, Standard would be good, Will buy genuine Nismo short shifter or dogleg shifter, NO cheap aftermarket garbage please, please call or text 0481109712 as I am not on here often lately, Located in Brisbane, happy to pay postage.

Looking for a complete set of RB25 lifters, need to be in good condition. Let me know what you got!!! New or used Pm me

For sale is my girlfriend's Metallic Silver 2000 R34 GT Sedan with a legitimate 97,000km on the clock.Great P Plater or first car as it is non turbo. Reluctantly she must sell her pride and joy due to finiancial obligations. Specs: Pioneer DVD Headunit w/ Bluetooth Connectivity & Navigation. Fully tinted windows. Remote start. Reversing camera. BC BR Racing 32 point Adjustable Coilovers. Only engine modification is a K&N pod filter which is neatly enclosed in a heat resistant perspex box. ARK Design rims: gun-metal grey with a matte finish. Rim sizes are 18"diameter, 9.5" wide on the rear and 8.5"wide on the front. Tyres on the rear are 255/35/18 Nankangs with approx. 80% tread. The front tyres are 215/35/18 Bridgestone Potenza. Car has always been fully serviced every 10,000km - (oil: Motul 8100 & oil filter, spark plugs, etc.) Car is in immaculate condition, both inside and out. It has been very well looked after and is a perfect example of a clean, untainted Skyline. It has had only one female owner in Australia since its importation. Registration until May 2014. Price $11,000 w/o RWC or $11,500 w/ RWC. Strictly no swaps. Please no low ballers, time wasters or test pilots. Can also supply the stock wheels with new tread for an additional $400. Will provide General Issue Plates from Vicroads upon purchase of the car. Please PM me or phone/sms me (Brent) on 0458 762 075 if you have any questions or queries. More images of car to be uploaded later today.

Hey All Looking for some advice on how to go about reshimming the LSD for my RB25, and also looking for some info on front and rear strut braces. So the Hicas is disconnected and I'm wanting to know what else I need to do to complete the mod? I'm also rebushing the whole rear support frame for diff as it's seen better days :S So could use some tips regarding what's the best to go with. If anyone's done this or wants to throw me some advice on how to go about any of these tasks let me know, would be super grateful! Going over my car and decided to remove cooler pipes on my Blitz front mount to check oil build up and noticed the front bar had rubbed a hole into the pipe itself, I slid a silicone joiner over the hole in order to patch it up. Wondering if this is an okay solution, because the pipes come with the intercooler kit and weren't exactly cheap haha Anyways to clean oil from intercooler system? Or is that not something I should worry too much about? Would like to relocate igniter from coil pack cover...any suggestions? Advice would be appreciated

FORSALE 1990 R32 GTS-T Track/Drift - Partial Complete 7000 ono or Swaps Located Near Bribie Island, Queensland Contact Mark on 0434 713 600 The inteior is stripped out, the sound deading has been removed, most parts are fitted, cage needs to be welded in, seats need to be fitted, dash needs to be refitted, exhaust has to be made, Fuel pump and surge tank needs to be fitted. Have spent alot of money on it, the new parts alone are worth over 15K, sadly Im trying to buy my first home and need to sell it. Will post Pictures tonight. Comes with everything to finish the car apart from an exhaust Engine Parts RB25DET Engine (Fitted) RB25DET 5 Speed Gearbox (Fitted) YellowJack Coil Packs (Fitted) MicroTech LT12s Ecu/hand controller, x6 ignitor, R33 Direct Plug In Loom Adapter (Fitted) 6-Boost Manifold High Mount (New Never Used) (Fitted) 50mm TurboSmart WasteGate (New Never Used) Kinugawa Turbocharger 4" Anti-Surge T67-25G T25 10 cm V-Band Housing (New Never Used) (Fitted) Dynamic injectors ID1000 (New Never Used) (Fitted) bosch fuel pump 040 (New Never Used) Surge Tank (New Never Used) Oil Cooler (New Never Used) (Fitted) Front Mount Intercooler SpeedFlow fittings Suspension BC Racing Coilovers (New Never Used) (Fitted) KKR HICAS Elimination Kit (New Never Used) (Fitted) Front Camber Arms (New Never Used) (Fitted) KKR Castor Rods (New Never Used) (Fitted) KKR Rear Camber Arms Type 1 (New Never Used) (Fitted) KKR Rear Traction Arms (New Never Used) (Fitted) Aluminium Cradle Bushes (New Never Used) (Fitted) Extra Lock Spacers (New Never Used) (Fitted) Interior Bride Zieg III - FRP x 2 seats (New Never Used) 8-Point Bond RollCage - not assembled (New Never Used) Racing harness x 2 (New Never Used) Oil Temp Gauge (New Never Used) Oil Pressure Gauge (New Never Used) Fuel Pressure Gauge (New Never Used) Water Temp Gauge (New Never Used) A/F Ratio Gauge (New Never Used) Wheels Rota Boost 18x10 with 4 new tyres

For Sale or swaps (S15 only). Pics and mods list below Looking for offers between 10-15K, still not sure if I want to sell. Location : ACT Engine Bay: S2 R33 RB25DET Garret 3076R Turbo High mount Manifold/Braided lines Kakimoto Mega N1 exhaust Custom high mount dump pipe Tial V44 44mm External Wastegate Greddy style forward facing plenum Blitz 850CC Injectors Blitz BOV GREX Oil Cooler/Relocation kit Sard Fuel Pressure Regulator Splitfire Coil packs K&N 4 inch Intake Air Filter Front mounted intercooler Cooling Pro Aluminium Radiator Greddy Oil Catch Can KB Engineering Brass Button Clutch Custom Stainless Steel intercooler and turbo piping Suspension / Handling: Tein Super Street coilovers Cusco Front Strut Brace Super Pro bushes Hicas lockout/ complete removal KAAZ 1.5 way LSD Braking: R32 GTR Brake Calipers RDA Slotted Rotors F & R Intima SR Pads F & R Electronics / Interior: Vipec RB25 plug in ECU Mongoose GPS alarm Optima Yellow Top Battery (Boot mounted) Bee*R Rev Limiter (not plugged in since new turbo, ecu, exhaust fitted) Battle Stage Boost Gauge NISMO Short Shift kit NISMO Shift Knob – black metal Nardi classic wheel R32 GTR Seats Exterior: Genuine Final Konnexion Body kit 17 inch Work Meister S1 Monoblock (8.5” front 9.5” rear) 18 inch HP Design split 5 spoke I have owned this R32 since Dec 6, 2006. When I bought it, all it had an HKS exhaust, HKS pod filter and unknown brand intercooler. Since purchase, after two different turbo setups, I have spent about $40k on it, all parts genuine. I would really like to keep it, but with 1 new baby and plans for another in the future, I would like to get something a bit more standard and easier to store down my driveway. The engine conversion was engineered. car recently tuned by ESP to 280KW at rears. The car still needs some work. The paint is very rough; the Final Konnexion Body Kit is second hand and not yet fitted. Due to the car sitting for a 3 year period during turbo/ intake manifold change. The engine has been found to have pretty poor compression (showed up after tuning). Car still runs and drives fine apart from compression issue ($1000-1500 for Replacement engine) The pics are just ones that I had on my computer, can take new ones if people want more info PM or message 0431900505 Attached Thumbnails

For sale - RB20/RB25 Genuine Nissan Oil Squirters. Part # 11560-59S00 I bought these for an rb25 build but ended up going down the RB25/30 road instead and these are not needed. They have never been used and are in perfect condition. I have six @ $30 each. Cheers.

Hi All, Im looking for R33 (RB25) Rear Windscreen (which has wiper blade as well) My car is 1994 R33 GTS4 Two door Coupe. (im sure any R33 series 1 rear windscrren will fit in ? as most other parts do ) Im in Sydney Quakers Hill Area Note- Last Sunday some one has smashed my windscreen while it was parked outside Please let me know if you have one... PM ME. Cheers Mike.

Hey guys, up to the final stages in my build and I need a custom front pipe from the turbo housing on a Hypergear ATR43 turbo, top mounted. To an existing aftermarket dump pipe in my R33. wondering if anyone down south of adelaide can sort something out for a good price. Also, I have searched quite a few times but couldn't really find an answer; What exhaust flange profile is on the G2.5 profile turbo? its a 5 bolt pattern, wondering if its standard T3/T04E flange? cheers Xavier.

Hi all. WTB: RB25 man gearbox and RHS drive shaft for R32 GTSt. Preferably in Melbourne but happy to pay for postage if the price is right. Not desperate but need them sooner or later. Please PM me. thanks Russ

Need to sell my C33 Laurel asap as im needing the funds for my new car. This is my very first car. Bought as a stocker RB20E. 1989 C33 laurel - RB25DET S2 out of a 96 R33. (ks now unknown but was put in under 100,XXX) - 5Spd manual RB25 Box - ISC coilovers all round - Upgraded R33 front brakes - One piece tail shaft - FMIC - 3" exhaust from dump pipe back - GKtech Dumpipe - Front strut brace - Modplated for engine and transmission conversion. - Blitz S-spec EBC -Turbo timer (not fitted) Bad points: - Car has a dent in the bottom of the LHF door, got hit by a neighbour. - Small rust spot starting to form on the LH C-pillar. - Starter motor is starting to become sticky. - Needs some front tyres, rears are brand new. The car had a boost problem for ages where I couldnt boost past 2-3 psi without hesitation. Found out it was due to a ruptured fuel line from the pump to the pump cradle. Drove fine off boost so it was driven of boost for most of the time until i could figure out the problem. Runs so much better and can now see 10 psi which is what it is set too. Car hasn't been drifted or done burnouts, NO LSD. The 25 is healthy as still no leaks or knocks Contact: Iain - 0422022887 Some vids of the car Idling Quick drive

Just recently bought a Stage 2 R34 Stagea, on straight LPG, with RB25 Neo Det. 4 weeks in and there's oil leaking into cooling system, head cracked in multiple places and will cost more than a whole new engine to weld up.. Need a new head and apparently some valves as well. If someone knows about this more than I do (which is bugger all) then I need help. Can I put a straight Det head on this? Does it have to be a Neo? I'm not too stressed if it has less power, just want to get this car going again. Cheers, Jason

A couple weeks ago... The battery in my 31 had been on it's way out for a while, that and I hadn't started it for a couple weeks, so I jump started it and all is well. I leave it idle for a while, then turn the lights and indicators on to check they're all working, when the car dies after a couple minutes of flicking them on. I put a voltmeter on the battery with car off, it showed 11.4V - dead battery, no surprise there. Jump start it again and it's charging at 13.6V, but as soon as lights are switched on the alternator cuts off and voltage goes to 11.4V and decreases until the battery gives out. I noticed the brake and volt alert lights (top right of the dash) were on as well. I chatted with a few people and figured switching the lights on was stealing the excitation voltage from the alternator, causing it to stop charging. We figured a new battery would fix it - but it didn't. I put the new battery in and the alternator isn't charging at all now. I put a spare alternator on which didn't change anything. I also had the old alternator tested by a mate that's got all the gear and it's working fine. I replaced all the fusable links and had a breif look over the loom, and noticed this rather confusing event. Also got the voltmeter on the alternator plug. Alternator plug: small white and black wire 0.5V larger white and blue wire 11.5V Are those meant to be about that? All I can think of is a bad earth or perhaps a sticky relay? Anyone had this issue before?

CAS for R33 RB25DET $180 not used - (reconditoned from Raw Brokerage) - http://www.rawbrokerage.com/raw-brokerage-cam-angle-sensor-cas-rb20-rb25-rb26-type-1/ HKS Springs for R33 GTST - Sits lower but stil legal and firmer ride - $200 Under Engine cover - $40 Drivers side window switches - $100 R33 Heater Core (Brand NEW!) - $115 Located near Beenleigh - post or PM if interested - Will Post at buyers expense CAS for R33 RB25DET $180 not used - (reconditoned from Raw Brokerage) - http://www.rawbrokerage.com/raw-brokerage-cam-angle-sensor-cas-rb20-rb25-rb26-type-1/ HKS Springs for R33 GTST - Sits lower but still legal and firmer ride - $200 Under Engine cover - $40 no photos but is the black plastic cover under the engine. Drivers side window switches - $100 R33 Heater Core (Brand NEW!) - $115

Forsale - Reimax Chromoly Steel oil pump gears. Part # 15110-AAR10-77 Price - $250 Fits the N1 oil pumps Rb26 77mm diameter gears. These are made from Chromoly Steel. Reason for selling - I decided to use a Tomei oil pump instead so no longer need gear set. (brand new never installed / never used) Thanks.

Hi Guys, I think its about time I think of selling my Stagea and get a smaller car. The car has been super reliable and has moved me up and down to Tasmania 4 times (for uni, live on the gc but went to uni in Tas) but now that I have graduated I don't need the space anymore. Over the years I have owned it I've only had to do minor things as it has been super reliable. 100,000km service including water pump (all genuine nissan stuff) New stock radiator (top tank cracked like they all do after 10+ years of service) Full 3" exhaust , turbo back with 3" catco cat (cat is pretty new) O2 sensor changed Front CV boots done before last trip up R34 GTT brakes (310mm front, 297 rear) stock brakes aren't very good for a decently quick wagon Eibach lowered springs (about 35mm lower, not harsh just firm and sporty) Impul shocks (work really well with the eibach springs) A heap of the front end bushes were also swapped out for superpro bushes recently EOI Price: $14,000 Car is located on the Gold Coast Will consider swaps, but only for something turbo and 4 cylinder

hi guys im sure this has been covered countless times, but i got some funny reading and im just after a second opinion Compression test values are as follows: DRY TEST (no oil): 1 - 110 psi 2 - 105 psi 3 - 105 psi 4 - 100 psi 5 - 115 psi 6 - 100 psi WET TEST (oil dropped in cylinder) : 1 - 120 psi 2 - 125 psi 3 - 105 psi 4 - 195 psi 5 - 150 psi 6 - 160 psi the wet test threw me off about with how much variance there was, but as well as that it seemed quite low on the dry test thanks in advance cheers

I have bought an R32 GTS-T and i was told by the guy i bought it off that it had a RB25 neo turbo/ an op6 on it. i had it on the dyno today and bumped it from 8 psi to 13 psi and it went from 127Kw to 166Kw but i still dont know if the turbine wheel is ceramic or not. i need to know if i can keep running it at 13 psi or not does anyone know if they came out only with ceramic wheels or is there a steel turbined op6.

Hi all, Have pulled together some info from the RB25 dyno results thread. Only considered some of the more common turbo options (for more data points), and have focussed on those which are internally gated. Turbos looked at were: HKS GT-RS HKS 2835 Pro S Hypergear SS1PU GT3071 Was originally going to do 3076 as well, but didn't find a whole heap of examples where internal gate was still used. Have put together two plots. One shows peak power vs boost, and the other shows some dyno curves. Dyno curves are approximate, as I only read off a handful of points from posted images. Also recorded a bunch of dyno curves in km/hr but cbf trying to convert as not aware of different drive ratios between RB25 variants (e.g. Stag vs Skyline). Might dig some more in the info later to see if any other trends (e.g. for intercooler types), but nothing was immediately obvious. Some observations from myself: You're not going to see benefits of the bigger turbos (e.g. 3071) unless you push higher than 16 psi. Those with cams seem to be consistently at the top of the range. i.e. cams are good. Best results were had with Neo engines, but also some strangely poor results with GT-RS. SS1PU looks very good, shame there wasn't more results. Strongest mid range from 2835 Pro S Some possible conclusions: If you only want to run 16psi, stick with GT-RS (GT28) sized turbos. If you want max mid range (3-5,000rpm) smaller turbine is better. GT3071 really shines > 5,000 rpm, and needs boost. No groundbreaking insights here. There's obviously a heap of other factors that come into play too, but hopefully is of some interest.

hey fellas. been doing bout a weeks worth or research and no turn up. I'm wondering if the cooling hoses underneath the intake manifold on the RB20 are the same sizes as the RB25, just looking at getting an RB25 kit if they fit. Cheers.

Hi all, I am currently in the middle of Building/Converting an RB30DET S14 Facelift and require some opinions from people with experience. I am aiming at a 400-450Hp (300-350KW) build, I am mid-way through and need some help deciding between a few items, I am not to stressed on the money side of things but prefur not to be paying out the ass for unnecessary items that dont give much power output. This is the build I have in mind and wondering if there are any things that people would change or would rate. RB30 block from VL auto Commedore (Honed and Dipped) Rb25DE head TopMount Manifold with 44MM wastegate 750-850cc Injectors Ultra Spark Coil packs Garret Turbo, either GT35R, TA3410 or GT3076. ( has anyone dealt with chinese rip-ops of these turbos and know if they are anywhere worth it? have been told not to bother but never heard of anyone having one blow up on them ) Have a crank collar, New water pump, Oil restricters etc I have a mate building this with me who is definately more switched on when it comes to RB's so ignore if I sound a little new to this. This is where i need help on deciding things. - I have read RB20DET gear boxes can only handle upto 400hp safely so i'm assuming a 25DET one will be needed? - Also I need help deciding on what internals to replace with aftermarket parts, am I right in saying cams would be a better investment than pistons/Conrods? -Should I replace the valves and valvesprings in the head as I read they are 400HP capable and would rather be safe than sorry. also does this make a power increase? -Are N1 Oil pumps worth it? there are very mixed feelings on these I have found, I am not going to be doing limiter raping skids or anything just after a nice sounding car with decent speed There is a place near where I live (Christchurch, New Zealand) that I have heard great things from when it comes to dyno tuning and have heard they provide there own ECU's so thats where I will be going at the end of my build. I am open to all suggestions so please feel free to post your builds and power outputs.

Hey guys, I'm in the middle of taking out a neo engine from my r34 and replacing with a rb25det series 1 engine.. What series loom will I need to run ? Will a series 1 loom plug into my 34? Cheers