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Hi all, How are people locking off their ignition advance to set base timing? I've got an inductive pickup timing light with the pickup clipped around the white wire loop at the start of the coil harness (it's at the back near the firewall), but the ECU is constantly varying the timing and it's very difficult to read. How have other people locked it at 15 degrees? I have tried Conzult's "idle setting" but that doesn't tell me what the timing is set to, and it doesn't seem to be constant. It just seems to adjust the idle speed. Cheers DaveB

Hey everyone, I'm after some help. Im trying to check the timing on my rb20det. Am I right in saying that number 1 cylinder is the first cylinder after the inlet and exhaust cams. I hooked my timing light up to the black loop wire at the back of the motor and my harmonic balancer degree was about 35 degree. I want to hook it up to number one plu to check that the other reading could have been possibly doubled. Also I have a autronic Eccu and a auto trans. What should the timing be set up to? Can anyone help me out? Thanks in advance

Ok I'm at work trying to get the pulley off and it's seized on and we want to fine a way to get it off without having to cut it off We have heater it soaked in in crc cleaned all teh rust leavered it and everything we can think of. It's on there hard

So I have an R34 GTT with many mods: Apexi PFC w/ commander/datalogit, GReddy Profec Type S EBC, GReddy Intake manifold and fuel rail, RC 1000cc injectors, Massive Precision Turbo, Tial WG, FMIC, HKS SSQV, Aeromotive FPR, AEM Wideband, 3" Turbo-back Apexi exhaust, NGK BKR7ES-11's regapped at .030. On to my problem...... I've had the car now for about a month and a half and have been constantly working out the bugs. First was a new center section for the turbo due to an apparently recent rebuild that didn't include a thorough hot tanking and left bits of metal shavings in the oil feed line that led to blown seals and bearings. Fortunately it doesn't seem to have harmed any other parts of the engine yet, I have ran several quarts of oil through in an effort to remove the machining leftovers. Next came proper PCV/ catch can installation and hose routing seeing as how it only had valve cover breather filters and an unhooked PCV valve, as well as an un-plumbed AAC valve that was sucking in unmetered air. Also replaced the O2 sensor and saw a dramatic increase in fuel mileage as AFR's. However, once all of these things were replaced and repaired I noticed that the car did not want to pull as hard as before and that even though the idle was more stable at 1000-1100rpms it did not want to stay running if I let it idle for too long. And as of now the car won't start at all. I've checked all of the usual suspects: AFM, New plugs AGAIN, no vac leaks, fuel pump is working great and have great fuel pressure. I am thinking it is my CAS, but not sure because if I take it out and spin it I can hear the fuel pump run and the injectors clicking. BUT when watching the FC Commander it only shows the car getting 4-7 degrees of timing under cranking. As well as when hooked up to Datalogit it wants to sit at 6000 load cell also while cranking. Im not sure why it is not getting more ignition timing while I am cranking it. My tuner is even scratching his head as to why the car won't start. Im guessing part of it is due to not being able to see the start up cranking ignition tables on the Datalogit screen and even by altering the whole map to 40 degrees it still only read 4-7 on the commander!?! Oh and the boost control kit setting is turned off as well as I have re-initialized the Com twice and re-loaded the map to no avail. Sorry for my super long first post on the site, but I am at my wits end on this one and USA forum support is a little lacking when it comes to this one. . Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!