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Hi, like the title suggests im after a non leaking r32 gtr abs unit for my 89 model r32 gtr as mine has started to leak and im currently collecting other brake upgrade parts to change them all at once so if any1 has an r32 abs unit thats not leaking and in good working order in Sydney area let me know. Message me on 0422126939, cheers.

Chasing the ABS reluctor ring that slips onto the stub axle in the rear of the s1 auto stagea diff. Not sure if all are the same. I have a cracked one and trying to fault find my driveline issue.

4wd abs light on Hey guys need some help with my stagea rs 4 1996. i have both 4wd and abs lights on the codes im getting from the led off the Ecu is 61 & 63. I have found a basic wiring diagram and in this I can see 5 relays. so I've traced them to 2 on the abs pump it's self one in the main fuse box near the battery and one up by the strut tower. Where are the other 2 located. could anybody shed any light on to this fault as I'm tearing my hair out now. Checked all around the wiring all checks out ok. Just need to find these other relays to see if that where the fault is. any help would be great.

Want to buy r200 lsd 4.3 ratio 5 bolt flange abs model 4 bolt cover (s13/180sx/r32) located south east vic cheers

hi all I have a Series 1 Stagea that had RB25DET auto, motor died, SO ive got a RB25DET neo manual with matching Loom,ECU.(Motor is in car now) I understand that the series 1 fuse box is different and after searching have been told that ABS, Atessa and AC wont work. Has Someone wired this correctly to fix these issues, am wondering if i just have to re-pin the body plug to suit the series 1 pin out. sorry if newbie question struggling to find info on this. Thanks all.

My ABS warning light comes on a few seconds after engine start. I've checked brake fluid level and fuses. What's next to troubleshoot this? I can read CEL codes but nothing ABS related comes up, however, i guess that may be just a limitation of the software.

Hello everyone! Not sure if I introduced myself before. Name's Andres, from the US, the great state of Texas. I've been into s13's and s14's for a while now. My latest projects are an s13 with a stock rb25det which I'm currently working on and near completion, working on paint right now. My other is an s14 with an rb25det with bolt ons which I currently daily drive, and boy what a joy that is. Here's a couple of pictures of both: Anyway, I am here today to bother you searching for knowledge from the people who know the mighty gtr more indepth and speak the same language. Some freaking how, an idea of swapping the entire powertrain and drivetrain from either a 32 or 33 gtr into an s13 has gotten into me and I can't shake it off. Complete with the attesa system. Now, the plan is to keep everything stock, turbos and tune, just the typical fmic, exhaust and filters, and also keep the car as stock looking as possible. And yes, I realize the level of difficulty this task represents, but that's only part of what's attracting me to it. The plan is to swap the complete front and rear subframes along with the front strut towers. After reading for a while it seems that the geometry of the r33 suspension is far superior to that of the r32. Parts are also newer which means that generally parts should be in better condition, and the engine doesn't have the same oil problems the r32 does. To be honest, the fitting of the parts sounds like a lot of fun to me: measuring, cutting, welding. I've been going through chassis measurements for s13, r32 and r33, and it doesn't really seem very challenging. I have also been pricing stuff... thank god I'll be selling both of my 240sx's soon. There are a few threads on different sites of people who have done it, unfortunately they are years old and all the pictures are down, and you all know how much pictures can help. Here's a couple that I found from a fellow member from this site, truly inspiring, Im sure you all know who he is: Ok, I'll get to the point. I need info regarding the electronics of the attesa system, how it works with the abs system to be specific (assuming I won't be using the r32 v-spec or whichever it is that don't use abs). I know the attesa system works together with the abs system, but Im having a little trouble understanding how people delete their abs on their gtr's. I know the abs pump can be bypassed using kit's sold online which includes brake lines, but according to multiple sources the rest of the abs system including electronics, have to stay for the attesa system to work properly. I've been trying to understand this diagram. Can anybody tell me to which model it belongs? Now, before we continue, I know that there are aftermarket controllers out there, but I am not interested. To put it simply, I am not looking to get anything re-tuned. I want to bolt eveything and wire everything on, and have an attesa system on an s13 to work as similar as possible to a gtr minus the abs. According to that diagram, the attesa connects directly with the abs actuator. I know there's a pump in the engine bay and an abs ecu, by the attesa ecu in the trunk, iirc? I know the pump in the engine bay has an electrical connector. To which unit does the attesa ecu connect directly? Or is it both? I know the attesa ecu connects directly to the wheel sensors, g sensor, engine ecu, attesa actuator/solenoids, but I'm having difficulty understanding how it connects to the abs. Can anybody in here help me with that? Also, would anybody happen to know where I can find a fsm for an r33?

So ive been searching around for awhile in topics related to ABS units on r32 gtr's as mine has started to leak. Found a few threads on people deleting them completely etc but i plan to just replace mine with a newer unit that i recently picked up. Couldnt find any guides with pics on people deleting/removing their abs units so ill have to figure that out myself when i install my new brake pads, rotors and replace the fluid. My dilemma is, ive always been told not to run the BMC dry, ok fair enough ive looked that up and seen how much pita for some to get it back working 100% again, but removing the ABS unit and putting the new replacement in will obviously end up having some air get into the system once i reconnect everything and clean up the mess and ive seen few mention that getting air into the abs unit itself is also a problem and a half to fix and get the air out. So my question is, if anyone has replaced their ABS unit before, did you run into problems bleeding the system after and getting air out of the unit? or was it simply replace unit then bleed system and all fine and dandy again? Cheers, Dee

Anyone know what aftermarket 2 wire magnetic sensors I can use in the Abs sensor slots front and rear. I'm using them for a Motorsport build, motec ecu. Ie Traction control and Wheel data logging.

Uk member needs help Just though I would say hello I'm looking for help with my stagea Rs 4 as there is no info here in the uk. Not finding much on the search function on here so I thought I would register. I have abs code 61 and 63 do anybody have any infomation to follow these codes. Everything I have checked has come back good. please help its driving me insane.

hey folks just been looking at pics on the net of r32 gtr engine bays and first thing i noticed was that my GTR is missing the ABS unit although the brakes still work. Ive only recently picked this GTR up and had it registered, but still needs some work untill im happy with it. Is there a reason the ABS unit may of been taken off ? for drifting or somthing ? Or has more then likely the unit just failed so they just ripped the whole ABS unit off ? its a 1994 r32 gtr. I did originally wonder why there was only 2 metal brake lines running accross the firewall but didnt take no other notice of it.. now ive relised why theres only 2 there... the car is only going to be driven on the weekends so idearly i want an ABS unit put back on there, unless they are prone to failing quickly ? any advice is appreciated cheers

So I have a 1998 Nissan with a 14 pin consult port. I have a problem with my ABS system and wanted to do a diagnosis to find out what the issue is but I cant find a software that supports it. I know NDSII supports ABS but this is the the 16 pin rather than the 14 pin that I require. If anyone could point me in the right direction that would be super duper helpful TIA

hi, recently bought a new diff centre for my skyline (s2 33 gtst) the guy said its out of a 33, it was out of a s14 i assume, the issue is that the diff i bought and have put in doesnt have the abs sensor hole so my abs light is on, i like things to be right and i dont want the light on so is it possible to swap the 2way center out of the s chassis housing, and put it into my stock housing ? the second issue is the new diff has 4;3 and clearly my stock is 4;1 so i would need to change the crown wheel gear over onto the 2way centre right ? so my theory was, un bolt the 2 way out the s14 housing, mark the 33 crown wheel gear, take the 33 centre out, swap the gear onto the 2 way and bolt it back in, will this work ? providing i get the gear exactly back in the same spot to avoid getting weird wear on the gears. btw its a nismo 2 way. any help would be much appreciated!!

So this morning I went to drive and when I turned on my car the tachometer would not work, and the ABS and TCS light stayed on. Turned off, waited 30 seconds, and tried again with same result. Obviously there was an issue, so I shut her off and drove my daily, as I was already late I couldn't afford to sit there and diagnose it. I came home in the afternoon and decided to check it out. Only, it is now working fine. YAY FOR INTERMITTENT! So a few things: - I drove it to work on Monday with no issues, been sitting since then. Never happened before. - It was raining this morning, and it was early when I started it (morning dew early). It has never been an issue before, but obviously in the afternoon, all the wetness and moisture has disappeared. - ABS and TCS rely on wheel speed sensors, that is what connects them, but the not sure how the tacho receives it's signal. - Every other gauge including triple gauges worked, and back lights worked. Feel free to ask me any questions. The only place I would start looking would be behind the dash, but honestly I have no idea. I will try and start it tomorrow morning early and hopefully nothing is wrong and it was just an omen to not drive my car for some reason today. Cheers.

Hi All, I was driving in my 3 today in the pouring rain. I came to a corner that I have gone around no less than eleventy billion times but this time my little 3 just refused to have traction. On approach to the right hander which is a comfortable 50kph corner and you can easily get round at 65 odd without pushing, I just lost the back end. I was doing 60 and have reviewed my dash cam footage (which looks pissy in comparison to how I had remembered it)... The front lost everything, I'm not sure if it locked up but I don't remember it pulsing or any ABS interference. The back continued to come around until the front drivers wheel went over the medium (with a big crunch) which is when I regained control and drove back over the medium and the remaining 200m to my house. There appears to have been no interference from TCS or ABS at all. The rear just came around (oversteer) and the fronts were (likely) just spinning. My questions are; am I expecting too much from TCS/ABS? If the (front or rear) tyres have shit wet control or if the road has had a spill of some sort, will that just stop any computers from taking control? I am just concerned that nothing happened. The car just control (or I lost control of the car) and nothing came to my aid. If I was in the Bora, 80 separate computers will have analysed and assisted in everything from traction to window winder controls. Is there an issues with the computers in the 3? Should I be concerned? Long winded I know, but it just freaked me out a bit. Thanks guys.

Hey guys I have a 2001 series 2 R34 GTR and the 4WD and ABS lights are on and I have no idea how to approach it. Car was running great up until one day I had a flat tire because a wheel cracked. Then I have replaced all four tires and hope it will go away but unfortunately it didn’t. I have tried the following methods but have no luck ? -checked the consult port but there’s no cable wired in for pin 4 (probably because it’s just a base model and not a V-Spec) (see attachment) -I tried looking at the trunk for the blinking red light on the attessa ECU (below the hicas ecu) but do not see anything. -I checked the fluid level and it’s all good. -I can hear the attessa pump kicks in when I put the car in accessories mode so I know the pump is definitely not the problem -tried wiggling the TPS sensor (as someone suggested on forums) and no luck ? -Tires are 265/35/18 and all at 35PSI Any input will be welcomed! Thank you!

R32 Attesa Problem Hello! I know there are a lot of attesa posts here but i never found something for my problem (correct me if im wrong). On my car the 4x4 and the abs light is on, so i checked the attesa fluid in my trunk and it was way under the minimum and i thought that may be the problem! So i refilled it with an oil with the same caracteristics as NISSAN MATIC D. Then i opened the bleed nipple in front to bleed the system unplugging the plug behind the drivers kick panel. Doing that i hear the relais in the trunk clicking five times but nothing else happens! So i tried shorting the red and the yellow cable on the relais and the pump starts priming but no oil comes out the bleeding nipple. I then bought a new battery and tried with that. The first time i started the car with the bleeding nipple open the pump started priming and oil came out. I switched the car off and closed the bleeding nipple and retried but nothing happened and the 4x4 and abs light was still on. Since i had to close the bleeding nipple while the oil was coming i thougt now there may be air in the system. Now i retried starting the car but again the pump was not priming and again shorting the relais makes the pump prime but nothing comes. The pump even sounds like its priming without oil but the resevoir is filled. I hope someone can help me and sorry if i made any mistakes!

Abs vs non abs Working on my r33 gtst - rb25 Just finishing off an engine swap & manual conversion and unsure about a couple things. I've swapped everything from one r33 without abs into another 33 with abs. I was just going to swap all the diff and manual tailshaft into the car with abs but the current diff has abs sensors and an abs auto tailshaft (unsure if there are abs and non abs tailshafts) but anyway, my question is can I just unbolt the auto tailshaft connected to the abs diff vlsd and bolt in my manual tailshaft and be good to go? If that won't work, if I put my non abs lsd diff in, in what way will Abs be affected as the sensors won't be connected?

V35 VQ25DD manual trans swap So I'm new to here, and I hope people still monitor this forum. I am posting for a buddy. He just partially swapped the 25DD to manual 6 speed (from the 350z). After the swap, he is having crazy ABS problems. He will be driving, then all the sudden the ABS will kick in out of the blue and the breaks pulsate as if you are depressing the brakes even though your not. He took he ABS fuse and removed the two slated in the engine bay as for the abs. Problem still exists. This happens at random times and if you stop and shut off the car, it will reset. Btw, this was the same issue we saw on a VQ35 on a manual way, but the ECU in the 35 was less straight forward, and it was assumed the problem resided in one of the couple ECUs on the VQ35. If you know someone who did a 25 manual trans conversion, or know the answer please help me

Hey all, While talking cars recently somebody has suggested that ABS works only with the OEM ecu, (R34 GTT) My years reading this forum i have never come accross this idea, although i cant seem to find anything to verify or deny that, it looks like it may be true for standalone options, I would like to know if it is true for plugins specifically haltec platinum pro. If its correct and abs is no longer supported then is there anything else that uses the abs wheel sensors? (Launch control?) or are they made redundant. Is there a separate abs computer that could be removed? I also have removed HICAS and TCC - can i now remove the computers for those? Cheers,

Hi everybody, This is gear I didn't even know I had, but need it all cleared out ASAP. I think it is all pretty cheap as I want to move it all on, but if you don't think so just make a reasonable offer. I can organise postage for everything (except tyres) at buyer cost. - R33 GTR OEM ABS unit $50.00 - R33 GTR OEM washer bottle and bracket $20.00 - OEM low mount turbo manifolds $40.00 (x2 sets available one from R32 GTR and one from R33 GTR) - R32 GTR OEM rear axles/driveshafts $200.00 - R33 GTR OEM front tailshaft $50.00 - R33 GTR OEM 'Twin Turbo' pipe $20.00 - R33 GTR OEM turbos and dump pipes $100.00 (perfect condition, never boosted more than 11psi as removed from my R33 GTR at roughly 100,000km) - R33 GTR OEM complete wiring loom $100.00 (body, engine, fuse box... complete removed from running car!) - R33 GTR OEM pedals, brake, clutch, accelerator $15.00, $15.00, $10.00 respectively - R33 GTR OEM swaybars front and rear $20.00 each - R32 GTR Atessa pump unit $50.00 (was removed from running car) - Tyres Mazzini ECO605 size 255/35R18 with some tread left see photos $60.00 a pair ($100.00 for all four) Can get more pictures on request. Just text me if you want details or are interested in any items. Thanks, Mike 0456969001

FS: R32 GTR ABS Unit and Brake Lines For Sale:R32 GTR ABS unit and brake hard lines from engine bay.Used but in good condition, no kinks in hard lines.$300 ono plus postage.Or pick up from Wollongong NSW.