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Found 35 results

  1. Just purchased the car (knowing I'd have some audio issues), and first thing I do with every car is upgrade the sound system as it's never that fantastic from factory. I'm looking to do sub, amp and speaker upgrade. Now I don't have the Bose system in mine. So, 1) Does the main head unit have the inputs I can use for the sub and amp wiring (kept there for the Bose system) ? 2) What size speakers are they? Please don't say "don't bother, too hard, won't work, deal with it - you got an import..."etc etc etc as I have done a complicated setup on a Falcon before where all factory connections had to be bypassed, and if that's what I have to do again, then I will. By that, I mean I installed a separate head unit so it worked entirely independently of the car's inbuilt system.
  2. Hey, alright so I can't seem to find any help on this issue anyway so I thought I'd ask here. I have a aftermarket headunit (Kenwood ddx4) in my skyline r34. When I chose the radio mode on the headunit all I get is static. I've heard it's because it's from Japan so the frequencys or something are different...Im honestly not sure why it's not working. Is there a way to fix this so I can listen to radio channels ??
  3. I seem to have sprung a leak. Gas mileage has gone down and I seem to hear a leak underload. When I got it tuned (401kw) I remember the tuner had issues with my BOV's and he resolved it but told me that they could cause issues. So if I order a Greddy Type R BOV (one big one) how do I install it? I should need to retune it or anything like that? Thanks Again.
  4. Hey guys, this is my first post on these forums. So I’m building a rb25det and I have an aftermarket billet intake with a 90mm throttle body. Iv mocked it all up and the TPS hits the fuse box. I’d rather not relocate the fuse box so Iv noticed that I am able to rotate it 90 degrees. Will this effect performance in anyway? Cheers
  5. What is your favorite aftermarket fuel rail ? I have had Greddy before but the anodize blue / red color got old fast. Went back to stock fuel rail, but stock FPR died so may going back to aftermarket FPR and wanting some clean looking fuel rail delivery setup.
  6. Price drop!! I have Decided to go with a Haltech ECU. So I am selling a brand new Apexi Power FC with hand controller (L-Jetro) model: 414BN032 Apexi Power FC & 415-A030 EL series Hand controller Revised Hand Controller functionality Back lit display $900 ONO Also have a brand new genuine Z32 airflow meter with plug $150 ONO
  7. Price drop... I have Decided to go with a Haltech ECU. So I am selling a brand new Apexi Power FC with hand controller (L-Jetro) model: 414BN032 Apexi Power FC & 415-A030 EL series Hand controller Revised Hand Controller functionality Back lit display $1000 ONO Also have a brand new genuine Z32 airflow meter with plug $150 ONO
  8. hey guys, got my boss kit off this morning and noticed the steering angle sensor isn't sitting straight. i didnt install the kit myself so i dont know what had been f**ked with before i acquired the car. should a spin it around til the logo is up the correct way? its a series 1 gts25t 1993 with hicas and no air bag. need help before i take my car in the shop later (unrelated) otherwise ill have to put the wheel back on for the job then take it off again when i get home. also worth a mention, there is no horn wires anywhere. do i need an adapter or something? is the plug on the steering angle sensor the horn plug? if so where can i buy the adapter i need? nissan?autopro?ebay?
  9. hey all. been trynna tidy up some sketchy mods so kindly left hidden by the previous owner like Easter eggs inside my baby. since ive had the car ive had no working horn. the steering wheel is after market and the boss kit seems to have no brand name on it at all. as far as i can tell the hicas is hooked up well enough (when i take out the hicas fuse the car's steering goes floaty, so it must be working, right?) but no wires had been fed through the boss kit to to horn button. i must note that the boss kit has quite a solid body so i cant see through it like some of the framed ones. it just seems to to sit over a thin black plastic plate(?) and connects into the box which holds the indicator and wiper stalks. my two main issues are this... i can not find the horn wire and am struggling to find a straight-forward answer to which colored wire is the horns and where it either comes from or goes to. being a previously molested car, the wiring behind the wheel and in the footwell have seen better days and in some spots it seems wires have been cut and soldered back onto themselves.. ive been tinkiering with the green and red striped wire that has had one end soldered back to either itself or a ground wire, and am starting to think its been hardwired off out of convenience when the boss kit was installed. but if its not the horn wire then im wasting my time. ive tried to look at pics of the column after the wheels been removed to try and find clues of what plugs and wires need my attention, but it all looks different because mine is all covered up by the boss kit which leads me to my second problem, i cant remove the boss for the life of me. and because i cant get a good look between the kit and the column, i cant tell which parts im supposed to pull and which parts im not. i dont wanna keep trying to tug if the boss kit is hardwired on(if that's a thing) and im also kinda scared that all my pulling and prying might damage that yellow round thing that's exposed when the wheel's off (seen it in pics and have been told its important and not to funk with it)... but since i cant remove or look past my boss kit, im not sure what side of the stalks it's on.. from my perspective it looks like the thin plastic plate between the stalks and the boss kit are apart of the boss kit that needs removing but im pretty sure the boss kit should be solid metal, and all that is plastic stays on the car. the thin plastic plate looks like it wiggles and doest quite sit flush in either direction. if anyone has any advice on how to identify the horn wire after some mild molestation, or any info on different boss kits that might shine light on mine (hardwired or cheapo brands with strange plastic bits?) or if someone has any pics of what the column and wires would look like stock so i can work backwards from the molestation. or even if someone has a side on pic of an installed boss kit so i can see what it consists of when attached and what parts should and shouldnt move when trying to remove the boss kit. a wiring diagram would also be helpful. sorry about the big write up over something small but i feel like it should be easier than this, and its only being made harder by a stubborn boss kit that cant be moved or looked past. it just looks so very different from other boss kits, it doesn't even appear to have anywhere to feed the wires through unless you cut the clips and feed through the small gap between the boss and thin plastic plate, which is a good solution but dosnt seem like the original intention. thanks in advance for any help that may come my way. my car is a 93 r33 gts25t s1. i have poor internet connection and no working camera on my phone so i may be slow to reply but please bare with me, and i'll find a way to take photos and upload them as needed.
  10. okay so i just purchased GENUINE momo wheel (rip wallet) and i knew what i was getting myself into but not to this extent, there was this thing called airbag that i totally forgot and a "indicator cancellation) if i buy a HKB BOSS KIT ON-229, would it fix the airbag and indicator issues? i have been searching the web for hours but no clear answer heres the link https://www.amazon.co.jp/HKB-ON-229-SPORTS-ステアリングボス/dp/B00IQ2XX58 http://www.hkbsports.com/product/boss/nissan/nissan.html i am in japan right now and can change or buy parts pretty much instantly so replys now would be great ! thanks so much summary: Would the HKB boss kit have indicator cancellation AND airbag light bypass? thanks alot !
  11. Nistune or aftermarket ecu?? Hey guys just wanting to get my car tuned and i have a standard ecu. From what ive researched im at a stage of either buying an apexi ecu or getting a nistune done and im just wondering who has either one on an r33 and which would be better. Cheers in advance
  12. AI SP1200 Surge Tank and Holley Dominator Pump Hi Guys, I have for sale my AI SP1200 Surge Tank and Holley Dominator Pump. Was running this setup in my car for the last year or so during which time it's done maybe 3000km's total so not much at all. Was providing plenty of fuel for the 470awkw setup I had at the time whilst being next to silent (couldn't hear it inside the car). As the Holley Dominator is technically 2 pumps you can run them in a staged setup which is how I had it which keeps fuel temps down when you don't need a lot of fuel. All working perfectly when removed and comes mounted on a nice little plate ready to be installed. The only reason I have removed it is this system will cap out at around 650awkw or so and I need something a little larger for my new setup. Price is 1000 ONO. Item is located in Rouse Hill, NSW and pickup is preferred over post. Any questions contact me here on SMS/Call 0403858714. Thanks, Brett
  13. Atermarket help/needed info V35 Hey guys, Does anyone know of Australia aftermarket websites in Australia that sell high quality, front bumpers, grilles, side splitters, rear roof window spoilers etc. I have seen these products accessible over in the US. Unfortunately shipping costs are through the roof :(. If you guys have any websites/Stores please help! Cheers Guys
  14. Aftermarket V35 Help Hey guys! So just the other day i purchased my V35. I am now looking to change the front grill and rear window spoiler lip, to make the car have a more aggressive look. If you guys have any information on where to buys these in Australia or any good websites please let me know. Thanks!! Products needed in Australia, as US shipping prices are astronomical. Front grill style:
  15. Stagea C34/M35 Parts & Viper Alarm Hi all, I used to own a 1997 C34 auto Nissan Stagea and a 2002 NM35 auto Nissan Stagea and have some spare parts lying around and would like to sell them. I have uploaded some pictures and can send more via email or sms. 1 x Viper alarm system 5806V with GPS tracking and remote start with additional tilt and audio sensors - Brand New - $850 1 x C34 stock exhaust (I think I have turbo back) - $100 1 x C34 stock wheel - $50 1 x C34 auto series 1 viscous LSD - $300 1 x C34 fuel tank with no fuel pump - $50 1 x C34 auto series 1 prop shaft (requires reconditioning) - $50 1 x R32 GTR Nismo fuel pump - used and in good condition - $220 1 x RB25DET JJR blue silicone heater hose set (missing 2 pieces) New - $80 1 x RB25DET valley cover (please note the snorkel pictured has been sold) - $20 3 x Camber correction Superpro and Whiteline Bushes (SPF3154K, SPF1869K & KCA347) - New - $300 for the lot or $120 each 6 x RB26DETT stock pistons and rods. I may have RB25 and/or also RB30 pistons and rods. $50 for the lot. 1 x M35 Stock ECU - $150 1 x M35 HKS SLD to remove 180km/hr speed cut (NEW) - $350 6 x M35 stock injectors - $50 1 x M35 stock intercooler and fan - $50 1 x M35 stock turbo actuator - $50 That's all I can think of now. If you have any questions please feel free to pm me. I'm located at Derrimut, Victoria. I am also happy to post at buyer's expense. Cheers, Kandio
  16. Anyone have R34 GTT Nismo Z-Tune Full kit? Has anyone bought the R34 GTT (Coupe) Nismo Z-Tune Full kit from Jsai? http://jsai.com.au/index.php/online-store/nissan/r34-gtt/nissan-r34-gtt-nismo-z-tune-full-kit-detail I'm interested in buying this kit but it doesn't list what's exactly in this full body kit. Does it come with front bumper, front diffuser, bonnet lip?, side skirts, and rear bumper? And would I have to trim my GTT bonnet to let the front bumper fit on or is this made for GTT bonnets? And hows the quality of these? I've heard Josh's work is pretty good. Cos I just wanna send it to the paint shop and not have to f**k around with imperfections
  17. Hey guys i recently bought a series 1 r33, it seems to be pretty reliable thus far but it shows signs of folks performing cosmetic enhancements without either much care or knowledge of the the mechanical side. Mainly the steering wheel. It's one of those aftermarket "drift" wheels with the silver horn and the yellow stripe at 12oclock. First thing i noticed however is that the horn doesnt work. now i assume it's because the steering wheel does not have the right connections to the car, so i need help to remove the wheel and get in there so i can find a fix, cos f**k paying the mechanics when eveything they know is learnable yourself. ive heard you can either rewire shit or buy adapters or something im not sure. But the other thing is that i believe the lack of proper connections is what's causing my hicas light to come on, and also i dont know how removing the wheel will affect the airbags (if any) and the airbag light since it seems to be off and hopefully stays that way. and will this steering wheel have any affect on how my diagnosis mode is run? Thanks in advance, i may add to this forum before anyone answers as I remember other issues and questions i have about this topic
  18. A few bits and pieces from my 1996 R33 GTR series 2 which I've sold. The car had done just over 100kms when parts were removed so everything is in good condition. Stock Airbox + Snorkel + Resonator Attachment + Almost new K&N filter $290 2 Stock AFM's $120 pair Stock ECU $120 Apexi Power FC Hand controller $250 RB26 Front Pipes $50 GTST Down/Dump pipe $30 Located Sydney, NSW Prefer pick up but willing to post smaller items. Best to contact me directly on zero415 five49 514
  19. Have a few ECU's FOR SALE. Give me a call or Text on 0421 503 250 if you're interested. 1 x R32 GTR ECU (standard) = $249 ono 1 x R32 GTR ECU tuned to improved HP with standard Turbo, Airflow, Injectors = $299 ono 1 x R32 GTR ECU tuned with 700cc Injectors, HKS T04S, Reground 264 Cams, standard Airflow, = $330 ono 1 x R33 GTR ECU (standard) = $259 ono 1 x R34 GTR V Spec II ECU (standard) = $369 ono 1 x R34 GTR 2001 Non V Spec ECU (standard & extremely rare) = $399 ono 1 x HKS F Con V Silver to suit R32 & R33 GTR = $489 ono Located in Western Sydney. Happy to Post @ Buyers Expense!
  20. I have a pair of never fitted scuff plates for a 2 door r32 Asking $140ono Item loated in Sydney Can also post item within Australia Thanks Mike
  21. As the title states, i'm looking to buy a R34 GT-T stock turbo in good condition or any turbo which is a direct replacement for the R34 and will cater to simple mods like intercooler and bleed valve. Thanks!
  22. Looking to buy aftermarket triple gauge cluster to suit 60mm gauges. Anything besides the URAS one on ebay.
  23. Hi Guys. Found a few V35 parts in my garage clean out today. Make an offer. Parts are from a 2003 Coupe and have all done less than 60,000kms. Stock airbox, filter and tube $100 Stock suspension, shocks and springs. $400 Replaced at 70,000km as I upgraded. Good condition 2 Stock headlights. No ballasts, just housing. $50 each Aftermarket 18s with brand new rear tyres and near new fronts. $1000 ONO Stock front and rear sway bars $75 each Kicker sub box with 2 x 12inch. Compspec 800rms in total. $200 Can provide more photos if required. I live in SA. Cheers
  24. I suspect that my stock R34 turbo has a compressor wheel problem and needs to be rebuilt. Looking for a hks gtrs or something to get me around 250-300 kw with good response. Offer me some good turbos with a t3 flange at a good price and we can go from there. Cheers!
  25. Hi all, I've got an aftermarket immobiliser in my R34 GTT that has all the usual features like keyless entry, turbo timer etc. I've had it for several years. I've been having a sporadic but severe issue with the car over the past couple of days: I sometimes cannot disarm the immobiliser at all. The alarm light (the little blinking led) goes dead and it doesn't react to remote in any way. I also cannot start the car with the Nissan key, it doesn't even crank. I also had the car stall on me once when stationary, which is pretty annoying in an auto. Again it wouldn't deimmobilise straight away but I finally got it going. I think my battery was on it's way out anyway so I bought and installed a brand new battery today, with slightly higher capacity too. I drove the car for a bit after installing it and it cranked really well. However, when I tried to start it the second time later on, same thing again - the alarm light was dead and I couldn't disarm it. I disconnected the new battery again, let it sit for half an hour or so, and managed to get it going. So I have ruled out the battery now and my multimeter is reporting 14V+ voltage at the battery terminals when the car is running, so it shouldn't be the alternator either. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this further? What else should I check? Is it possible that a bad/old battery could have fried the alarm somehow when it was running out of current? Also can anyone recommend a good auto elec in the inner or northern subs who knows Skylines well? Thanks guys.
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