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chasing an alternator for a rb25 and an a/c compressor and bracket to bolt on to the motor. i am on the sunshine coast qld 4556 but will pay for post cheers

Hello fellow car fiend's! I looking for company who can rebuild Power steering pump, alternator and engine. area specific is not desired.. just Brisbane area..

Hi, I'm after a quality alternator to bolt onto my turbo R33. Needs to be direct factory replacement please. Located Ballarat, Victoria Thanks, Tim

Im in the middle of changing my timing belt and cant remove the drive belt,alternator and P/S. Is there a certain sequence of going about this because i keep tightening the belt but the reverse is doing nothing at all. Iv undone the hinge bolt pictured in the second picture. The two bolts im confusing of their functon are in the first picture.Ive undone the short belt, and tightned the long one and it pulls the alternator back essentially tigthening it. Help want to finihs this early if possible. so i managed to take the alternator belt off by removing the water pump pulley. Anyone know where the hinge bolt for removing the A/C, Power steering is? Would undoing the tensioner circled loosen the power steering?

Hey, has anybody changed the alternator on their M35 VQ 25DET. Are there any tricks? Do I have to remove power steering pump?

hey guys after getting my hands on some wrinkle paint yesterday i thought i was clean up my alternator and spray the case in wrinkle black was just wondering how hard is it to do and are they able to be pulled apart?? i know they have spring loaded parts so i didnt want to do anything yet

I noticed my car charges badly, and worse when it is warmed up. So i pulled the alternator out for a look, and found a hole in one of the brushes. Normally i wouldnt care but its right where it contacts. Anyone know if this is the problem? Should i grind it back? Or get a new one? I need to get it charging properly again. Ideas anyone?

I'm thinking of changing my alternator out as the car is 20 years old now and the chances of it screwing me on the side of a road somewhere increase as the years do. I found a very well priced option from circuit sports in the US (available through www.frsport.com or search circuit sports) which is around USD$185 plus shipping (sorry cant post the link, my browser is playing up) but Im unsure as to whether this is worth it or not. Does anyone have experience with this brand's alternator (or infact this brands products)? whats the quality and fit like? thanks

Issue with alternator/headlights So my r32 gtst is having this problem where my car batteries would die the next day so i changed the car batteries 3 times and the problem persist. I figured maybe it was my alternator so i got a multi-meter and tested it the numbers coming in were in the normal ranges. I tried all the load test and they came back normal but the one thing i noticed was when i had my headlights on and i revved the car the voltages would drop on the meter down to not so normal ranges around 12 volts. On idle everything is normal but when i rev up the car around 1500-2000 it goes down only when headlights are on any idea what could be the problem?

Hello! I’ve read multiple post on similar issues as I’m having but following their steps hasn’t brought me much closer to solving my issue it feels like. So, I created a new one! Issue: I installed a brand new alternator after thinking my old alternator was the issue but I’m having the same problems. The alternator is not charging the battery at 14v resulting in constant recharge to be able to drive it for another 5 days before the voltage gets too low that it can be harmful to multiple components. When car is off: 12.43V When car is on: 12.51V Diagnose: With a multimeter on VDC 20V, I attached the negative probe to the negative side of the battery. Then, I measured all the grounds on the alternator while car is on. Negative Side of Alternator alternator ground to block: 0.05V alternator case: 0.05V alternator bracket: 0.04V alternator battery power stud: 2.5V alternator Battery power nut: 2.5V chasis to block where alternator ground is hooked up to: 0.05V Grounds around alternator: 0.05V With a multimeter on VDC 20V, I attached the positive probe to the positive side of the battery. Then, I measured Voltage drop while car is on. Positive Side of Alternator Alternator Battery Power stud: 9. 47V Alternator Battery Power Nut: 9. 47V Rechecked grounds on alternator: 12.42V The 75Amp fuse is receiving 11.8v on the top pin and 0.01V on the bottom. Where I’m At: With the diagnose I’ve done I’ve determined that the grounds have a prettt good connection, the 75Amp fuse is good, but there is a substantial voltage drop of 9.47V. Question: Does anyone know why a voltage drop could occur and how do I fix it? Could the battery be the issue?

Hi everyone! I have had battery charging issues before which have been resolved using this wonderful forum and well... here I am again! Yay... So, from the beginning. I've been driving my car for about 2 months now and my dash-lights went out about a week ago. Then yesterday, I'm leaving school and the car decides it doesn't have enough charge to start. I replaced my battery thinking it was just old (4 years) and got a nice fresh yellow-top. That made me curious to look at my voltage gauge and it displayed 13.88v. As I drove the car, I noticed it dropped to 12.88 and stayed there. When the car is off: battery is 12.42v. When the car is on, battery is 12.42v. When the car is on the road, 12v-12.88v. I have driven the car for about 3 days and its consistently sitting around 12v-12.88 but doesn't go up to 14v. My voltage gauge shows 12.88v max voltage when driving. I checked the alternator stud and it showed 13.53.v charge. I checked the 75A fuse, and it showed 13.48v. I started the car and disconnected the terminals from the battery to measure the charge to the battery and it read 12.41v (I did this quickly as I know the battery acts as a buffer). So, the battery is being charged at 12.41v, the alternator is producing 13.53 volts, all fuses are good, I don't have a charge light but my dash board lights did go out before I started noticing this problem. I tested the exciter wire (off the alternator) when the car is off: 0v, when the car is on: 0v (red/white wire off alternator) I tested the big wire (off the alternator) when the car is on: 0v, when the car is on: 0v (big white wire off the connection) The way I tested the wires was by taking off the plug and measuring the pins while the car is running off the alternator. I replaced the alternator in 2020, so I believe it should be good. But I do have an oem sitting around that was tested good before. Do you guys have any suggestions?

Hi SAU, Been having issues with my R33 GT-R. Battery warning light comes on at random times. Recently (1.5 months ago) had new alternator fitted, and new battery fitted (2 months ago). Car is used once a week and is always hooked up to a trickle charger. Between the time I had the new alternator fitted and today, car was running perfect, i.e no warning lights. Was at a stop light and decided to give it a 1st gear pull. What ensued was the battery warning light turning on and my tune getting messed up (AFRs reaching 15.9 with no throttle input, misfiring etc). Kept cruising for a bit, then decided to pullover and shut car off. Once I got going again warning light was gone, only for it to come back after a couple of hundred meters of driving. It should also be noted this is at night, with lights, and radio on only. I noticed that the warning light would turn off if I revved the car up aggressively (5000rpm+), at a stand still. Once revs dropped, light comes back on. However revving it up whilst moving would do nothing. Also when driving on bumpy parts of road, light flicks on and off, something must be loose right? I checked on the front and rear fuse boxes and everything seems to be plugged in. The high beams also struggle. The right side high beam comes on immediately while the left one has a little stroke before fully turning on. Oh and battery terminals are on nice and tight. Any ideas? I don't run any gear that would have heavy battery draw, and I get the car worked on by a reputable mechanic. In saying that, would it be possible for the alternator or battery to be malfunctioning this early in their lifespans? The car has traveled roughly 1000km+ since the new alternator was installed, no issues at all during that time. I will say though, the battery voltage while driving has never exceeded 13 volts, usually 12.x (with this new alternator). I think 14.x+ is the norm. Before I got this new alternator the voltage reading was around 10 to 11. When I got home I hooked up the trickle charger and it took a while for the light to go green (charged/maintaining). Usually after a drive, short or long, the red light on the trickle charger only lasts for less than 10secs, sometimes it goes green straight away. But today it took considerably longer than usual to go green, indicating the battery was not charging(?). Any and all help appreciated guys and gals, will have a chat to mechanic on Monday, however I thought I'd see if I could get quick help and fix straight away.

Hello everyone! After years of driving my car, I recently decided to pay attention to my voltage gauge and saw I was only getting 12.5-13v of charge. the alternator charge stud: 14.6V L terminal on the plug: 10.9-11.3V Exciter wire: 10.9-11.3v Whenever I disconnect the charge wire from the battery, the voltage on the exciter wire goes to 12.5-13v and the charge wires shows 14.6v… I don’t get it. As soon as the charge wire is connected to the battery, the exciter voltage drops to 10.9ish volts. The current exciter wiring is weird, as it goes into a relay… I don’t remember why I did that. I’m thinking of changing the wiring to this here: Would this work? thank you, eric

1. New Radium High volume external pump surge tank. $500 2. New JMS FUELMAX single pm2000 40A (boost up voltage from 14v-20v adjustable and ramp in function, active when boost or 5v, much better than kennebell bap) $500 3. A lot New and used aeroflow fittings and silicone hose(an 6 8 10 12 full flow push on hose end, 8 orb-6 8 10an fittings efi fittings, etc) want sale as a package. $500, buy new will cost you over $1200. enough build one car surge tank fuel system. 4. new nitto head drain rb26. $150 5. new platinum rb26 cas bracket. $200 6. used reimax adjustable cam gears. $120 7. 2002 r34 gtr alternator in perfect working condition only 53000kms old. $180 8. nismo thermostat 3000kms old. $40 9. zeitronix E85 ECA. blue readout. without ethanol sensor. $150 (new one cost around $300 shipped to aus) 10. haltech afr gauge. $30 11. reimax rb26 clear timing cover. $60 12. new single and dual billet aluminium gauge holder fit both 52mm and 60mm gauge. $20 single, $40 dual. location : gold coast

Upgraded to higher amp so have this as spare.Works fine.Pickup from Blacktown or can post at buyers expense. $125 neg.

FS New and Used R32/33 GTR OEM parts Hi all, GTR has been sold so cleaning out the garage. Some pricing is firm though some are negotiable. brand new R32 GTR door handles and surrounds, both sides $100 will also include a few kick panel and front grill screws if I get the asking price. Penrite ten tenths racing oil 15w 50, unopened, 10 litres $100.. Usually around 70-75 for 5L R33 GTR Air con compressor and attaching lines, good working order $250 R32 GTR standard Air con lines $50 RB26 Water return line, moves hot water from the back of the head to thermostat housing $15 2x Tial 38mm waste gate spring and flange kit. Includes water feed banjos. No waste gate included, some springs missing. $25 each. Standard R32GTR charcoal canister $40 RB26 Auxiliary brackets $25 each R32 GTR Heat exchanger $40 3x R32 GTR air con compressors. Unknown condition FREE Standard R32 GTR piping and cross over pipe , price on request Standard R32 GTR front diff centre $50 R32 70AMP Bosch alternator $50 R32 Standard fan shroud, bit beat up and missing the top part $20 R32 GTR water pump pulley $15 Standard RB26 coil packs and brackets (unknown condition) $30 Used RB26 metal head gasket $20 5 standard RB26 rods and Pistons FREE Located Western Sydney Pm or message, will post some items but prefer pick up 0432528844 Cheers

Hallos, I have a 2 year old Bosch (genuine) 85AMP alternator for sale. Comes with a spare near new genuine Bosch regulator too. If you're wondering why there's a near new voltage regulator? well I thought the previous one was faulty however the it turns out my sense wire on my harness was severed so it would come on and off charge. What you will get: Bosch 85AMP Alternator Bosch Voltage Regulator (spare) Bosch to Hitachi harness for sense & dash light wiring - this also means it will fit R31 and VL commodores too when the harness is not used. This shit bolts straight up and provides 5 more amps than the factory RB25 alternator and 15 more amps than the RB20 alternator.. will work on a GT-R too however you'll have 5 amps less than the factory alternator. Price: $80 Location: Canley Vale

Got an R33 alternator left over from the RB25 I put in my car. Came off a working car. $75 pickup in melbourne east or postage extra. Contact via PM. Thanks, Russ

Clearing out a few parts I don't need anymore All parts are in good condition and only selling due to upgrades Located in Sydney, prefer pickup as I don't have time for shipping over the coming weeks RB26 alternator . Was replaced 25thousand ks ago as I was chasing an electrical fault.. VGC (upgrading to RH9 as I now have multiple fuel pumps so I need the amperage) $110 Front diff centre. Once again VGC only selling due to quaife upgrade $60 R32 Power steering pump with bracket, good working condition. Selling as I bought an r33 pump to suit new balancer $50 Federal 18x40x245 tyres, Not top of the range by any means. about 80% still on them $120 also have the following standard parts intercooler fuel rail charcoal canister PM or message 0432528844