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1993 White Nissan Skyline R32 (BNR32) GT-R build date 04/93 - VIC - 89,XXXKMS Color: Crystal White Accessories Include: -Apexi PowerFC ECU (PFC) -HKS Kansi 6 point half Roll cage -18x10 Volk Racing challenge Rims (white/blue), wrapped in Falken 265/35/18 tyres all round -Momo Race Steering Wheel and Boss kit -Apexi GT Spec (5inch thick) Front Mount Inter Cooler -Apexi Power Intake System -Mongoose 3 point Alarm System (Insurance Approved) -Tinted Windows -Splitfire Coil Packs -HKS cam gears -Greddy Dual A-Pillar Guage Mount -Defi boost & Oil pressure Guages -Nismo 320km Dash Cluster and Centre Console guages -Apexi Turbo Timer -Aero Side Mirrors -Nismo side skirts -N1 Front Bar Vents -Turbo back HKS Exhaust System (Stainless steel dumps, Stainless steel front pipe, high flow cat and cat back) -Apexi BOV's -Ohlin’s Height & damper adjustable Coilovers -Nismo twin plate clutch -Upgraded Lighting Harness -Dynoed at 254kw at all fours (Race Pace late 2012) on a nice tune, but is capable of way more if wanted/needed. Many more extras will be included (spare parts, original parts, bits and pieces I've collected over the years that I haven't had time installing etc will be included). This car has NO ACCIDENT HISTORY, is well maintained and has been regularly serviced. It's got the looks the speed and sound. Just put in petrol and enjoy. Thousands spent on mods & tuning (Racepace, Evolution R, Hyper tech, ART). Very quick street car that has NEVER been Tracked, Raced or Thrashed! Will impress. I have owned this car for many years and was planning on keeping it forever, unfortunately I am being made to relocate overseas permanently and am unable to transport it to my new home - so this has to be sold ASAP. This car has been in garaged storage for most of it's life (as I only pulled it out to drive it occasionally due to work commitments and my other cars- hence the low km's), however it is extremely comfortable and quite capable of being a daily driver if need be. And now that winter and the rain is creeping up on us - this car is absolutely perfect as it handles like it's on rails in the wet. I do have some other cars (american muscle and a daily driver) for sale as well - and am happy to pass on information to anyone that may be interested. *** Please note I am currently out of the country with work and will not be back until early-July 2013 - I am posting this ad now as I am not going to have a lot of time to part ways with it once I return, so hoping I can get a good show of interest and will give people enough time to work out their finances. For all inquiries please send me a private message with your email address so I can contact you back as I'm not sure what the mail restrictions are for new members. I am selling this car without a RWC (as I just won't have the time to sort it out and it is easier for the buyer to obtain one) however I doubt anything will really need to be done (tyres have around 3000kms on them so have a tonne of tread on them still, Brake rotors/pads have about 3000kms wear on them as well, seats/seatbelts are in great condition, all the lights/wipers etc work as they should, and it has absolutely no leaks, etc). Asking $19,000 ono (All reasonable and genuine offers will be considered) Viewing, Pickup and Cash/Bank Cheque from Inner SE Melbourne Engine is strong and healthy - has been comp tested with no issues across all 6 cylinders.

After thinking over and over again and due to personal and unforeseen circumstances - it will be wiser for me to let my GTR go if the offer is fair - looking at $33k negotiable. No time wasters please... Ad is only posted on SAU and nowhere else... No expense spared on this GTR - buy give her a remap and be happy driving her... Very reluctant but you gotta do what you gotta do... If she doesn't sell before things pick up - then i guess she was meant to be mine.. Car is in very good condition - Year 89 - Chassis is Accident Free - NSW Rego: THE.32R - till May 2015 - Gunmetal Grey - has 155k km on the clock - but i do not know the mileage of the engine - it is running well - car is currently at JLM putting together the final touches and putting the Motor back in... Text me at - zero four three one six two one seven two six RB26DETT :- CP Pistons Eagle Rods HKS cams Springs/Retainers HKS Downpipe Full custom tucked 3.5" exhaust and high flow cat made by Fabulous Fabrications (beautiful work) along with custom Hot/Cold cooler pipe. Intercooler Splitfire Coil Packs with New Harness and extra Grounding Haltech Platinum Pro ECU Bilstein (Yellow) /Eibach strut/spring combo - No leaks and no knocks Ikeya Formula front and rear upper control arms. Front and Rear Apexi Dry Carbon Strut Bars Cusco Swaybars Front and Rear Cusco 1.5w rear diff, fully rebuilt and new diff bushing installed with newer (and slightly larger/stronger) R33 half shafts Diff oils all changed - front and rear less than 5k km Gearbox - Redline Anti Shock Gearbox Oil (Smurf Blood) - less than 10k km OS Giken Twin Plate Clutch and Flywheel HICAS delete Nismo LMGT4's with 265/40/18 Federal RSR all round - less than 1000km Nismo Wheel Nuts Apexi AVCR Nardi Deep Corn Nismo Gearknob Full 3M Tint HID Headlights C's Short Shifter Parts just installed and travelled - 0 km - being put together and putting the Motor back - 100k km service with extras Brand New - Garrett -5's Brand New - Cometic Exhaust Gasket Brand New - Nismo Mounts - Engine Left, Right and Gearbox Brand New - Nismo Clutch Slave Brand New - HEL Braided Clutch Hose Brand New - Nismo Thermostat Brand New - Heater Hoses and Radiator Hoses - Silicone Brand New - Gates Racing Timing Belt, NSK Bearings and Cam Seals Brand New - Water Pump

Hi Peps, So I'm kind of new at this stuff so go easy on me, I just brought a Nissan Skyline r34 25gt P plate legal and what I noticed was on rainy days there was water getting into the right head light and because of that the light is sightly dimmer than the left side and as I looked closer I noticed a small crack on the right side and the previous owner put what seems to be like clear sticky tape which does not help at all, Was wondering what are my best options and what should I do? should I put silicon on or should I replace the whole light it self ? If you could help me out with some ideas and advice Thanks.

Hi, I am looking to sell my baby due to relocating overseas. I have had this car since it was imported to Aus about 15 years back. Located in Sydney. Sale price $12,000 but am happy to negotiate - No swaps. This is a 1996 white Skyline r33 series 2 with 170,xxx showing on the odo (though the engine was rebuilt at 12x,xxx - will double check as I have receipts). Rego expires in April. Lots has been modified (the same amount as purchasing the car has been spent in mods [~$20k]), however it is 100% street legal and aimed to be a "sleeper" style. It has been dyno tuned to produce 260kw @ 14.7 psi (1 bar boost) . The car drives well and has usable road power - responsive and still has a nice kick. It is ready for more power by dropping in a larger turbo - the engine is bullet proof, as it has been rebuilt with forged internals, increased injectors, fuel pump, etc. All mods are quality branded products and have been installed professionally (mainly from IS Motor Racing, Rockdale) and I have receipts for all mods - mods include: (I will update the brands and details when I get some time to look through the receipts and other paperwork) - engine rebuild with forged pistons and lots of other goodies - by IS Motor Racing - splitfire coil packs - xxx oil pump - xxx fuel pump - xxx cc injectors - z32 AFM - r34 hi flow bb turbo (cant remember which company did it) - xxx heavy duty clutch - 4ws disabled - xxx front mount intercooler (sprayed black - sleeper style) - Apexi pod filter (with box - street legal) - xxx 3'' turbo-back exhaust - Apexi power FC with hand controller - Apexi AVCR boost controller - xxx turbo timer - Trust front mount oil cooler - Whiteline sway bars - xxx camber and toe arms - r33 rear strut brace - GReddy front strut brace - HPI engine damper - r32 gtr forged rims - GReddy oil temp and boost gauges - nismo gear knob - tinted windows - genuine series 2 floor mats - front and back - Sony deck - new front and rear speakers (can't remember what brand - I think Pioneer) - quiktrak immobiliser/alarm - Air con/heater and everything in the car works There are probably many more which I just don't remember but I will update the list once I get time to look through receipts. There is some damage to the car (pictured) and should take a few hundred to repair. If you are interested or have any further questions, please do not hesitate to email me [email protected]. I am also contactable on 0401 003 686 via SMS or call.

RARE APEXI WHEELS - 17x9 + 17 in excellent condition zero gutter rash with all 4 apexi centre caps Tyres 255/40/17 federal 595's done less than 1000km! These come on the market very very rarely - $2000 the set Ono Pickup Ipswich Phone: 0413 863 207

Hi guys, my ECU fuel pump circuit is basically fried so car is dead in the water at the mechanics, wondering if anyone has a second hand RS4s (manual) ECU laying around they're willing to part with ? model no: 23710 0V801 JECS TM either that or an Apexi PFC to suit... (R34 GTT) I'm located in melbourne... would prefer local pickup Tomas

well... Since I'm having a baby and I barely drive the car anymore, I have finally decided it's time to move on. Up for grabs is my 1994 R33 Gts-t. built with the highest quality Japanese parts and no expense spared, not only does this car make heaps of power, it makes it quickly, easliy, agressively and most importantly... reliably. I have had this car for 7 years and am the second Australian owner. My best mate imported it in about 2003 and it has been looked after like a child ever since. The car came over stock and has been entirely modified by myself. The car was put together using only the best japanese parts, all chosen to compliment each other. The car was tuned on 98 ron with the factory turbo and ran at 185rwkw for a few years, and later became one of the first cars on SAU to be tuned on e85, finally cracking the 300rwkw mark back in 2009. After 3 years of 300+ rwkw the old motor finally popped (big end) and got replaced with a low km unit out of a stagea. This motor has been installed and tuned, and has only seen 1 motorkhana day. As the motor is out of a stagea, it has an RB26 block with the larger alloy sump and RB25 internals. It also spent it's whole life attached to an auto box and came out of a non performance modded showcar that was unable to be complied. The car currently makes 290rwkw on BP Ultimate @ 19 psi and a huge 323rwkw on E85 - all tuning by Trent @ chequred tuning (Status) car sees full boost by 3200rpm and makes power right up to the 7400rpm redline Car has been on it's track tune of approx 275rwkw @ 17psi since the new motor was installed. I never run it on more than this as there really isn't any need. mods: 1998 Nissan Stagea RB25 - 75,000km (100k service done less than 5,000 ago) (chassis approx 150,000km) HKS GT 2835 Pro S Turbo (.68) Nismo 555cc Injectors Nismo Intank fuel pump Nismo Z32 AFM Splitfire Coilpacks New OEM radiator Hybrid GT Front Mount intercooler (matte black) Greddy 1lt catchcuan (both rockers to can, pcv blocked, rocker to plenum connected) Steel intake pipe Custom cold air box with cold air intake Apexi pod filter ARP Exhaust manifold studs Veer metal gaskets (turbo, and manifold) Rocker covers removed, painted and resealed with new oem gaskets Greddy RB26 Exhaust cam gear Apexi 3" front pipe Custom 3" decat pipe welded into face cat Custom 3" genie rear pipe, tucked up into body Hotdog and Genie cannon (4" tip) Gates racing timing belt RB30 water pump New OEM engine mounts RB26 5.5lt alloy sump (front diff removed) Exedy HHHDBC (triple heavy duty button clutch) with GTR pressure plate Nismo GT LSD Pro 1.5 TT diff (serviced every 5000km with motul comp fluid Greddy Type S coilovers with cabin adjust for rears (6/8 springrate) Selby's swaybars front and rear superpro camber bushes front and rear superpro caster bushes front superpro pineapple bushes hicas lock bar (globe removed) DBA 4000 296 ml slotted rotors EBC redstuff pads Motul dot 5.1 fluid Varrstoen 2.2.1 18x9.5+12 all round w 235/40/18 Falken ZE912 - satin black (not included unless you want to buy them seperately as will put on new car) Rays engineering red titanium wheel nuts hub locator rings GTR Front bar (fibreglass) GTR Grill (fibreglass) Ganador Mirrors (genuine - carbon) JDM tyte yo roof spoiler Carbon boot lip New OEM nissan headlights (2011) Phillips crystal vision globes front indicators deleted and relocated to parkers resprayed in oem wine red darkest legal tint on rear window graduated tints on side windows Trico chameleon wipers - re- sprayed in satin black Bride Ergo drivers seat - blue with grey graduated bride logo bride superlow rails R33 GTR passenger seat CAMS authorised 1kg fire extinguisher 150mm clear bubble dildo shifter C's Short shifter ( 30% shorter throw) G-tech hanbreak drift button Rocket switch (disconnected) replaced OEM gearboot & handbrake leather 330ml Nardi wheel with perforated leather and red stitching 50mm alloy steering wheel spacer HKB boss kit 666 dan 5 way white in dash LED's hicas globe removed Apexi Power FC computer Blitz DSBC spec S boost controller Apexi 1.8 bar boost guage on pillar mount autometer phantom oil temp guage autometer phantom water temp guage autometer phantom air fuel guage (narrowband) Apexi turbo timer Pioneer AVH-P5750DVD single din DVD player with 6.5" fold out screen (works while driving) Nintendo Gamecube Polk Audio db 6.5" splits JL Audio 6x9's Optima Yellowtop battery with stinger terminals If i remember any more mods i will update this list After $16,000 - no RWC - plates not included. $15,000 with out rims. please don't lowball me with 50% offers, as I will not reply. this car has had a LOT of $$$ spent and is worth every penny i'm asking. contact: 0433 362 156

Wtb aftermarket ecu Looking to buy a second hand aftermarket stand alone computer to suit r33 gtst would consider piggyback if cheap.

[WANTED] EBC WTB: EBC, after either a ProfecB or AVCR (or something just decent) to go into my GTT. Located in Vic, postage preferred but can collect if local-ish.

WTB Apexi RSM2 Hey guys, looking for an Apexi RSM2, same as the photo in great condition. Who has one sitting on a shelf not being used? Thanks

Looking for various upgrades for my r33. Apexi power fc djetro with commander, map sensors and harness. A plus if it has the oled commander and boost controller also. Garrett gtx3582r or similar spec turbo with low mileage Injectors around 1000cc, fuel rail, matching clutch etc is also of interest. Let me know if you have some stuff you'd like to get rid of at a fair price.

Apexi Smart Accel Controller? Found this bad boy online http://www.apexi-usa.com/store/smart-accel-controller.html Can't seem to find anyone who's put one in a Stagea. Reviews on other forums have been nothing but extreme praise in how it changes throttle response and acceleration, saying "it feels like a whole new car". Also for $200 delivered with an M35 Stagea-specific loom adapter, it seems like a good upgrade. The fact I can't find any info on them here is just making me a bit skeptical. Anyone have any experience with this, or other throttle controllers in general?

Looking for a PFC in good condition for my R33 gtr v-spec. If you have the EL-commander and the boost controller too, that would be awesome. Splitfire coil pack, torque split controller, devil wing, 320km/h nismo tacho etc are also of interest. PS. You need to be willing to ship to Norway.

Searching around for this particular cooler

Hi, my partner has lost his keys to his V35. What was thought to be a simple new key/reprogramming solution, has fast become a bit of a nightmare lol. It's got an aftermarket security system and apexi tuning system attached. Anyone know who to call or where to start?

I am trying to do some work on my R33 GTR and find myself needing to read codes from the APEXi Power FC and possibly retune it. What software or cable can I use? I know it has a Consult I port, but can you use a standard reader with the APEXi ECU? If not what is the best way to access the information? I know that I have seen the FC-Datalogit software, so is that the best/ only option? Thanks for the help and hope this is in a close to right section!

Hi I'm getting a bigger turbo for my gtt and I'm wondering if I need to get an aftermarket ecu and a tune or an apexi afc to controll the air:fuel ratio. Does anyone know what's better for a car ? Also nistune or power fc for an auto? I know there's a lot of threads but they all have different answers. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Hello So its sorta hard to explain, but ill try my best. I have a 1998 R34 GTT Skyline, It has a rb25det NEO. It has no engine mods other then an oiled HKS Pod filter, Apexi Front mount intercooler and an Apexi AVC-R Boot contoller. I have a problem (is most noticable in 3rd gear) where when i hit apoximatley 5000rpm power drops and from outside the car it sounds like im on red line apprently. I am still obtaining the same out of boost and injection percentage according to the Apexi AVC-R. When i set the boost at stock pressure the problem goes away. However the problem accours again when i turn the boost up. Starting at 9 psi and onward up to 11 psi! (i havent tried to go any higher) iver also tried it with traction control on and off and it makes no difference. Please help, Do i need a tune or new plugs and coils, etc... Thanks for your help, Im new to all this. Alex

Hey Guys, I've had a search around the forum, and excuse me if i missed it. I have a R32 GTR and its fitted with the Power FC unit, does anyone know/Recommend a Tuner (In Melbourne) who could tune the car for me as this is the first GTR i have owned im alittle in the deep for this stuff. Much Appreciated

I will state that i have spent a good while searching the forums before posting this. I just picked up my 99 stagea 260 rs from port on Monday and drove it the 9xx kms home Tuesday. Turns out it was overfuelling pretty bad in pulls from 1-3 gears. I didn't try any other pulls as we took it easy on the way back. So didn't realize until we were 2 hours away from the city and tuning shops. At full boost it makes a ping/miss, it was hard to hear in the car with windows up but almost like a sputtering or metal rattling sound when in a tunnel, was going to blame fuel but it wasn't detonating and i was running 94 oct. The cel was flashing as well when it hit full boost. The p.o has upped boost to 14lbs/1 bar as well. It idles great tho today I was playing around and i noticed that at 1500 rpms it makes a noticeable shake then lessons as you increase the revs. Also i should note that after I noticed the apexi bcv (not on the auction sheet) that its running an apexi power fc, with no controller... I took the air box apart and cleaned the mafs last night. There was lots of oil in the box and lines going to the compressor. I now have to add a catch can to immediate mods. The mafs looked like they were dipped in chocolate.. So im going to do spark plugs. Before I do that I want to test my ignitor and my coil packs. I took one coil off and it looked in great shape and the spark plug looked new?. After reading and searching these are what came to mind. Spark Plugs -If boost is upped to 14lbs and the plugs were just doneor stock plugs were used I heard that the stock gap is 1.1mm and that running more than 12lbs a gap of 0.8mm is recommended. That could be one cause? I don't know if that would cause the over fuelling? would it trigger the cel? It would explain the miss but not pinging/detonating? also cause the miss at 1500 rpms? - Bad coil pack or ignitor? My plan is to check them tomorrow i guess either one would cause a miss as well, Tho would that unspent fuel be enough to puff a decent black cloud after a pull? -Stuck injector? I now have to order the apeci power fc controller or cable and software,, and the nearest tuner is 900 kms away Or else i would of pulled the code.. Any other ideas. I know a read on the ecu would help with what sensor is going off at full boost

just had some used Apexi N1 coilovers fitted to my R34 gtt bought from a reputable member, fitted by a mechanic. the rear right seems unstable, seems bouncy and over ridges or corrugations the back end seems to skip a bit. when going over a pot whole at low speeds the back end hit seeming harder than it should and you can feel a bouncy vibration through the car. is it likely that the shock is blown or is something likely to be loose? something is a bit rattly, knocky in the back, not yet sure if its from the strut or just something else behind the parcel shelf. anything i need to be checking, any easy way to tell? any help is appreciated

Hello Family, Ive put in my new Apexi FC and have done the timing on the engine via the commander until I order an FC Hako or Datalogit. The issue is at high revs around the 15x15 mark on the map trace i get misfire and I cant work out how to resolve this issue. Its always on the same spot so I started messing with the fuel map on the commander. I dont understand what the numbers are a reference to on the inj map. What does 1.00 reference too? I guess it means 1.00 = 0.00; above 1.00 = more fuel but how much is too much how little is too little? Why do the numbers stop at ~1.4 - they must be referenced to something and I cant find anything on the net. So basically its misfiring and i want to decrease the fuel because i think its too high ~1.30 which i did but it made little to no difference same as increasing the fuel.. anyone got any ideas? Thanks

Hello, I'm new to the forum and have had my R33 GTR series 3 for about two years now. Cars has run well and is running a conservative tune of 212kw at the wheels. My question is how can I check the boost pressure? I was a mechanic 10 years ago and am pretty savy with engines but have very limited experience with turbo charged cars and the thought of running too lean scares me but a bit more boost I think would be nice as 212kw does not thrill me anymore.

Hey Guys, Just switched to larger injectors. Needed to go in and update the latency and cc's. I dont have a commander. Friend dropped by with his Commander and Datalogit. Commander is universal. We can not get either one of them to connect to my ecu. Power to Pin 58, 12v. Motor is an RB25 S2 in it. Any ideas? Car runs perfectly fine, just wont connect to either piece.

Introduction I've always had problems with my idle on my r33 GTR running a power FC; it runs 264 cams and felt quite lumpy and often hunted for the right idle speed and AFR. I do the tuning myself but could never get the idle just right.. until today! This took me 4 hours to do but I am quite slow and I have quite a busy engine bay so I had to remove some things to get to what I was after. From what I have learned, there are two air control parts on a typical GTR, the IACV and the AAC. I'll show a picture and brief explanation of both: - AAC This is relatively easy to get to on the RB26; it is just underneath the intake plenum and has 4 bolts that are roughly 2 inches in length and are a 10 socket. It is comprised of two major parts; the electrical component which shows the AAC label and the controller which has the spring and screw inside which allows the fluctuation of air. As I understand, the AAC is designed to increase air flow when electrical load occurs, such as a power assisted steering wheel being turned. When this gets dirty, it can cause high idle because the spring holds the gap that lets the air in open causing a leak in the system which will also cause lean behaviour. Alternatively, if it's filled with gunk, it could cause hunting due to bad air fuel ratios from going too rich. See below for some pictures of me holding the AAC after I gave it a quick clean. (The AAC below is not my image) The AAC has a screw that you can turn; it is facing the front of your car or at the right of the right component on the above diagram. Turning the screw clockwise will lower idle and turning it anti-clockwise will increase idle. The basic functionality of this is that it overrides the system and leaves a small gap that air can go through. There is some conflicting instructions that to change the idle you have to unplug the throttle position sensor and/or disconnect the brown connection but you'll see what I did later on. IACV (Idle control valve) I'm not overly knowledegable about this component as I don't actually have this on my car. A lot of people remove this and/or block the piping and rely on tuning to do its job. It is located very much under the air plenum above the oil filter. Basically, this component will allow more air into the system depending upon how cold the water temperature is. As the water temperature rises, the valve will gradually shut until this device is no longer used. A couple of problems that I can think of is that if this is faulty and it doesn't close, there would be an air leak and if it doesn't open it would mean there would be some lean behaviour on startup if not corrected by the ECU.] The nissan skyline manual shows how to diagnose this if it's faulty but it is a real pain to get to. My experience I am fairly novice with cars but I'm learning more and more as I tinker around with my overly specced car that I bought on a whim one day because I felt my impreza wasn't powerful enough! So, I've had major problems with my idle; either hot or cold, it would start to drop below 800rpm and I'd have to apply the throttle to get it to stop it from stalling. I tried modifying the fuel ratios, the ignition timing and the idle settings on the powerfc using datalogit to no avail. After doing some research, I decided that I needed to take off the AAC and give it a clean to see if that would work. Required: - Size 10 socket wrench will do, it's not that tricky to get to like some people say; I had an ordinary sized socket wrench and managed to get to all 4 bolts easily AAC gasket or you can make one yourself using a stencil and some gasket material (You could re-use but I decided against it) RTV sealant Carb cleaner Phillips screw driver Toothbrush/pipe cleaner or some way of cleaning For a picture of the gasket, see below; it's quite tricky to find it and I had to get it from America and nearly ordered the RB25 one; I live in the UK. Instructions for removal: - Firstly, remove anything on the left side of the engine bay that will restrict you from getting just underneath the intake plenum; I had to remove my catch tank and my fuel pressure regulator to get to this but this took a few minutes as I'm always removing these to clean up on my overly obsessive cleaning schedule of my car. Remove the brown wire socket which is clipped on fairly trivially Use the socket wrench to undo each of the bolts; mine were so easy to remove that once I'd loosened each bolt, I could use my finger to unscrew which was a lot easier than worrying about dropping the bolts down into the endless pit inside the engine bay. Simply pull at the AAC gently, trying to rescue the gasket if you want to reuse; I found that it was just stuck to the AAC and was easy to peal off. Remove the air tube that connects to the left hand side of the AAC You should now be able to take the AAC out of the engine bay and take it to your working area ready to be cleaned. Half way through cleaning, I decided I was going to take some pictures but unfortunately I left my iPad at home so I had to use my laptop to take the photos. It was also very cold today and my fingers didn't like the combination of carb cleaner and freezing weather. Hard to believe they're actually normal looking when I'm in the nice warm area typing on my computer! The AAC is comprised of two parts; I call them the electrical component. They are joined together with two small phillips head screws and come apart quite easily. Be careful as there is a little rubber seal that sits between them: - and the air control component.. see below Mine was fairly dirty and had some black grimey gunk all around the spring and screw. I immediately smiled and was quite excited at the prospect that my lovely car was potentially going to stop idling badly! I got a spare toothbrush and pipe cleaner and used carb cleaner spray to basically rinse the whole thing out and clean the spring and screw out. This is a lot cleaner than it was but what you can see is two holes in the center of the air component. The hole on the left is the spring that is controlled by the electrical component and the hole on the right is the screw that you can manually screw with a phillips head screw driver. Make sure these are both clean before putting back together. I actually adjusted the manual screw so that there was a tiny gap as I've read that it needs to be open a slight bit. This could be wrong so this may need to be adjusted to meet your idle speed requirement. I also gave the electrical component a cleaning but only on the side where it connects to the air component. : - Once I had cleaned the air component, I scrubbed the port underneath the intake plenum with carb cleaner as there was a tiny bit of grime and old sealant. I then screwed the components back together to form the AAC again and then took my nice new gasket out of the packaging: - Applying the sealant Apply a very thin layer of RTV sealant on the AAC firstly by adding a small line, roughly 2mm thick in small sections and using my thumb to spread it out until the flat edge is completely covered. Place the gasket onto the AAC; it will only go one way so that the layout matches. If it doesn't match, you've probably bought the wrong gasket. It's quite easy to do as there is a lot of posts containing the RB25 part number and so on. Repeat step 1 but this time on the gasket on the side that will be attached back to the port The tricky part is now getting the AAC back on without fudging the sealant and getting into a right mess. I did this the first time but make sure that if you mess it up, you ensure the sealant is properly applied as if it is not, there could be an air leak. I found that with the sealant I used, the AAC actually stuck to the port without the bolts which was nice as it gave me the opportunity to let go of it to push each of the bolts in and hand tighten them before I used the wrench to tighten them. Remember to re-attach the pipe and brown connection which, for me, was quite easy. I thought it was going to be an annoyance trying to get them back on afterwards but they went on surprisingly easy. PowerFC idle learning (only for power fc) I did not adjust the screw on the ECU as I feel this is something that shouldn't really be messed with and I didn't change the throttle position screw. The only screw I set up was the one on the AAC which is shown above. I use datalogit but there are posts that let you know how to do this with the hand controller. Switch the ignition on and turn off any of the blowers/air con/lights etc. Reset the powerfc back to defaults but ensure that you've saved your map and can reload it with your preferred settings. Switch the ignition on and leave the car to idle for 10 minutes to learn idle at no load After those 10 minutes turn on the lights and the air blower for 10 minutes to learn idle at electrical load After those 10 minutes turn on the air conditioning for 10 minutes to learn idle at air con load The 30 minute period is required by power fc and should be performed, just for peace of mind after doing this as it can change quite a lot of things if the AAC was dirty. Hopefully this fixes your hunting idle; it fixed mine. Sorry for the lack of pictures and quality, as well as the inexperience that is obvious in this post. Just figured it would be nice to try and help people who have this issue as it can really be annoying stalling at junctions through no fault of your own!