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Found 29 results

  1. Hello! I searched on the forum and did not find anything similar to my problem! So i drove my GTR with my friends an launched it once, after that the car was fine and i continued to drive with no problems! We stopped after 15 minutes, and my car was parked for about 30 minutes, i noticed some brown oilsplashs on my driverside and a little bit in the wheelhousing! I checked for leaks on my brakelines but nothing there! After driving it again the car was handling really strange, everytime my 4x4 kicked in my car started to pull hard left, if i was just coasting and accelerating mildly the car was going straight! Now my question is did i break my front diff or could there be anything else that causes this problem. My allignment is a bit off but that pulls me to the right so i know it has nothing to do with that! Hope someone can help me! Thank you! Kind Reagrds
  2. Hey all Mute the video before watching as it's loud My attesa ecu is giving me 1 flash. I've uploaded a video. Any help is appreciated. I've been trying to work tbis out for weeks. Is it front right wheel sensor??
  3. Had recently changed transfer fluid and bled attesa using Nissan matic D, also changed a cv boot on the front right shaft. Everything done to the manual. About 30 miles after this I Was driving down the motorway about 70mph Suddenly a bang/rattle from under the car, could feel vibration from the tunnel in the footwell. The torque gauge shot Up well past 50 and stayed there. Pulled in checked under the car nothing hanging out and no leaks. I’ve a switch wired for RWD flicked it and decided to drive home and have a look, the steering felt heavier and there was a very slight rattle from under the car. Jacked car up, shafts all seem ok. there was a thin green and yellow wire wrapped around the driveshaft. Also some Non OEM wires seem to have been ripped out of the power steering rack. Also spade connectors on them which were also pulled out. Have absolutely no idea what these are for. No 4wd warning lights and the torque gauge will quickly rise fall a bit then shoot Up past max when ignition is on. (See video) Any ideas ??? Guessing transfer box is f**ked ? EE3B34D6-C193-4923-BB8B-DD1F84C92275.MOV
  4. Hi All, I’ve done a search and couldn’t find anything on this specific topic. On startup I have this weird buzzing sound from the rear of the car which goes away in about 10 seconds. It’s definitely not the fuel pump. Sounds like something 4WD or HICAS related pressurising? It can be heard intermittently for about 2 seconds every 30 seconds or so after the first “prime”. Is it a normal V-Spec thing, or am I losing pressure somewhere? Hope someone can shine some light on this. Thanks!
  5. Hello everyone! Not sure if I introduced myself before. Name's Andres, from the US, the great state of Texas. I've been into s13's and s14's for a while now. My latest projects are an s13 with a stock rb25det which I'm currently working on and near completion, working on paint right now. My other is an s14 with an rb25det with bolt ons which I currently daily drive, and boy what a joy that is. Here's a couple of pictures of both: Anyway, I am here today to bother you searching for knowledge from the people who know the mighty gtr more indepth and speak the same language. Some freaking how, an idea of swapping the entire powertrain and drivetrain from either a 32 or 33 gtr into an s13 has gotten into me and I can't shake it off. Complete with the attesa system. Now, the plan is to keep everything stock, turbos and tune, just the typical fmic, exhaust and filters, and also keep the car as stock looking as possible. And yes, I realize the level of difficulty this task represents, but that's only part of what's attracting me to it. The plan is to swap the complete front and rear subframes along with the front strut towers. After reading for a while it seems that the geometry of the r33 suspension is far superior to that of the r32. Parts are also newer which means that generally parts should be in better condition, and the engine doesn't have the same oil problems the r32 does. To be honest, the fitting of the parts sounds like a lot of fun to me: measuring, cutting, welding. I've been going through chassis measurements for s13, r32 and r33, and it doesn't really seem very challenging. I have also been pricing stuff... thank god I'll be selling both of my 240sx's soon. There are a few threads on different sites of people who have done it, unfortunately they are years old and all the pictures are down, and you all know how much pictures can help. Here's a couple that I found from a fellow member from this site, truly inspiring, Im sure you all know who he is: Ok, I'll get to the point. I need info regarding the electronics of the attesa system, how it works with the abs system to be specific (assuming I won't be using the r32 v-spec or whichever it is that don't use abs). I know the attesa system works together with the abs system, but Im having a little trouble understanding how people delete their abs on their gtr's. I know the abs pump can be bypassed using kit's sold online which includes brake lines, but according to multiple sources the rest of the abs system including electronics, have to stay for the attesa system to work properly. I've been trying to understand this diagram. Can anybody tell me to which model it belongs? Now, before we continue, I know that there are aftermarket controllers out there, but I am not interested. To put it simply, I am not looking to get anything re-tuned. I want to bolt eveything and wire everything on, and have an attesa system on an s13 to work as similar as possible to a gtr minus the abs. According to that diagram, the attesa connects directly with the abs actuator. I know there's a pump in the engine bay and an abs ecu, by the attesa ecu in the trunk, iirc? I know the pump in the engine bay has an electrical connector. To which unit does the attesa ecu connect directly? Or is it both? I know the attesa ecu connects directly to the wheel sensors, g sensor, engine ecu, attesa actuator/solenoids, but I'm having difficulty understanding how it connects to the abs. Can anybody in here help me with that? Also, would anybody happen to know where I can find a fsm for an r33?
  6. Hi guys, I'm having a problem after switching the diff on my R33 GTR v-spec to an r32 GTR non-vspec diff with carbonetic LSD center. The preload stays on for too long after an initial start. Then after a few seconds the ABS/4wd/LSD light comes on. The A-LSD lines from the pump have been blocked off. The system has been bled. The shop has checked all 4 wheel sensors and they are sending pulses. Diff ratios checked and number of "cogs" on the rear ABS same between old and new stud shafts. Has anyone had a similar issue when swapping the diff and center? Do I need to swap to a non-vspec Attesa computer? I'm stumped.
  7. R32 Gtr Has Constant AWD Hi guys, 4WD light is on but my car is constantly awd, I pulled out both awd fuses and it was still sending power to the front wheels, (I had the car on a hoist). I have found that the awd bleeder connector in the driver side kick panel is there but there is no plug or wires coming from the boot into it. There is also a small loom cut before the pump in the boot. I noticed when the car was on the hoist on the front right wheel was spinning the same speed as the rears but the front left was stopped. Also when I took the car around the shop it would shutter when turning and if you accelerated a little and backed off it would clunk harshly. Any ideas?
  8. Hi, my 4wd in my stagea doesn't want to work with or without the 50/50 button pressed, sometimes there is both the 4wd and abs lamp on but I don't know how to check the codes, where does the ecu even sit? But the 4wd doesn't work even when the light isn't on when I spin the front wheel the axel to the gearbox does rotate, the oil for the attesa is there. I don't really know how to check if the pump is working or not. Help would me appreciated thanks
  9. Hey guys, when full locking my r32 gtr shutters like crazy as if it has a locked diff. It has fresh oil and I've also put in an additive to stop the clutches from sticking. I'm not sure if it could be because of my other problem with my awd, which I wrote up in another post >
  10. WTB R32 GTR DIFF MOUNTED ATTESA PUMP Hi All, Looking for a second hand attesa pump for a r32 gtr. diff mounted is a must! Thanks Kosta
  11. R33 Attesa Troubleshooting When putting my R33 gts4 on the dyno I've discovered that the 4WD is not working. It might have actually been broken for awhile, it would explain my poor 60ft times when I was drag racing last year (a month before I had the engine rebuilt). However in general driving I've only ever seen 4WD become active twice in the 7 years I've owned the car - I don't drive it hard on the street. That said the 4WD light wasn't on and I know it worked because when I had an ABS sensor go it did light up. I've now switched out my gtr ecu for a Link G4+ and a dash2pro so I don't know how to fault find on the attesa system anymore - does anyone have any ideas?
  12. Attesa not working I have a S1 C34 that is manual converted, with power fc. I have the secret squirrel mod done. It previously had an extreme TSC that I removed thinking that may be the cause, but no change. My AWD has never worked since I bought the car 2 years ago. When I purchased the car the owner said the Attesa needed to be bled since the gearbox had been out. I bled the Attesa and it still doesn't work. I can hear the pump prime when I turn ign on and it runs occasionally while sitting at idle. I have had the awd and abs lights come on and stay on after sitting idle for long periods. I don't seem to have any fault codes to try and work out why it doesn't work. I have checked that the Attesa ECU is receiving a TPS signal and that is all ok. I'd really like to get it working, as it is hard getting the power down just through the rear wheels. I've been reading and am thinking either pressure switch or accumulator. Is there any way to check these for sure?
  13. Symptoms of bad transfer case? Hi folks, I have a R32 GTR with engine and all drivelines factory stock with 135k km. Can you please let me know what are the typical symptoms of transfer case going bad? A lot of grinding noise and vibration comes from the front half of the car, but only at very low speed and when steering is turned. The vibration can be felt through steering wheel, and the noise can be heard even with windows up. At times it feels like the inner wheel is skipping, like LSD is engaging, but obviously the front is an open diff. So I pulled the AWD fuse and all the problems went away. Put the fuse back in and it starts to grind and vibrate again. Recently all 4 driveline components had fluids changed, nothing improved. This happens also going in reverse, actually it's worse when reversing. When reversing with steering in full lock, the grind and resistance got so bad that the car had trouble moving. Thanks in advance for any inputs!
  14. Hi everyone, Car is a r34 GTR V spec. Got a problem with my 4wd system. The 4wd and a-lsd lights go on and the car goes into rwd. There is this ticking at the back of the boot; it is very audible near the reservoir. It ticks every 3 seconds. I think it only ticks when the car is stationary. For the past couple of days, the 4wd and a-lsd light has not come on so I cannot check fault codes on the attesa unit, however, the ticking is still there. What do you think? Any info would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance!
  15. I have just recently purchased my first GT-R (an R32) and was wanting to know if the way the front torque gauge is behaving is normal, abnormal, or whether the gauge is just abit dicky (like many a skyline gauge) So with normal driving my gauge sits anywhere from 0-10%, like i'm driving on the freeway at 100km/h i look down and the gauge is sitting on 10 (or 8 or whatever) and it seems to stay at that position until i completely release the throttle which (after a second) causes the gauge to drop back to zero. yesterday i tested the 4wd (as i didn't actually know whether it was working) so on a wet road i did a couple of moderate launches, gauge shot up to somewhere around the 40 mark and i got bugger all wheelspin so i presume it is working. also experimented with the 4wd controller which definately was working as on zero the rear was more twitchy and on around 7 it felt really good and could really put the power down on corner exit So does all this sound fairly normal? i was expecting gauge to pretty much read zero in all normal driving conditions and only show anything when giving it some stick. Thanks
  16. R32 Attesa Problem Hello! I know there are a lot of attesa posts here but i never found something for my problem (correct me if im wrong). On my car the 4x4 and the abs light is on, so i checked the attesa fluid in my trunk and it was way under the minimum and i thought that may be the problem! So i refilled it with an oil with the same caracteristics as NISSAN MATIC D. Then i opened the bleed nipple in front to bleed the system unplugging the plug behind the drivers kick panel. Doing that i hear the relais in the trunk clicking five times but nothing else happens! So i tried shorting the red and the yellow cable on the relais and the pump starts priming but no oil comes out the bleeding nipple. I then bought a new battery and tried with that. The first time i started the car with the bleeding nipple open the pump started priming and oil came out. I switched the car off and closed the bleeding nipple and retried but nothing happened and the 4x4 and abs light was still on. Since i had to close the bleeding nipple while the oil was coming i thougt now there may be air in the system. Now i retried starting the car but again the pump was not priming and again shorting the relais makes the pump prime but nothing comes. The pump even sounds like its priming without oil but the resevoir is filled. I hope someone can help me and sorry if i made any mistakes!
  17. Wtb. Attesa pressure switch Want to buy attesa pressure switch for nm35. And the seller would be willing to send the product to finland Or if you know somewhere affordable prices the entire pump unit so you would be nice of you inform me
  18. R33 / R34 non-vspec GTR Attesa Pump As above, willing to pay shipping. Must be non-vspec.
  19. Hey everyone, A little background. I currently live in Okinawa, Japan and my ATTESSA pump and/or pressure switch has died on me. Here in Japan they only search and order parts per your VIN which generates the Nissan FAST part number spread sheets. Well the dealer thought ATTESSA was HICAS (he swore by it) until I gave him the part number 41610-05U00. It was then he finally figured out they discontinued the ATTESSA pumps and the pressure switch was not given a part number creating a dead in. Google is only showing me old, used, unknown status pumps and I cannot figure out if a BCNR33/BNR34 ATTESSA are compatible. Now for the issue. Recently my 4WD light came on. Before people start lighting me up I have went through the process and searched forums. The computer flashes 18, 19 and I have went through the process of deduction per the FSM. In the end the pump as stopped working and/or the pressure switch has failed. Some times the light does not come on for a minute and the system works, but in the end the 4WD light will come on and deactivate the system. The pump used to be super loud, but now makes no noise. The reservoir was just below the MAX line, but for some reason it is well over filled (I did not add fluid to it). Everyone says to replace the pressure switch, but NO ONE SAYS PART NUMBERS OR WHERE TO FIND ONE! I am looking for a new or rebuilt ATTESSA E-TS pump with pressure switch for a BNR32 that will last another 24 years. If it matters it is a 1992. Also there is no DIY for rebuilding the pump or who/where we can purchase a refurbished pump. So, could someone help point me to who/where I can find and purchase a ATTESSA pump with a pressure switch online? Japan is no help, go figure.
  20. 4wd isn't working and so trying to diagnose. Tried to bleed the system yesterday but after disconnecting the green/white plug (pic attached), The pump didn't run and i could take the bleed valve completely out of the transfer case. Someone suggested getting access to the Attesa ECU and reading the faults from that via flashing LED. I got to the ecu but i couldn't see any blinking lights or anywhere that could blink? (pictures attached) Am i missing something here?
  21. I've got a 98' Series 2 Stagea and the 4wd doesn't work (See more here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463038-help-with-fault-finding-attesa-system-attesa-ecu-c34/#entry7685341) Just wondering how do i retrieve error codes relating to the 4wd system? I've got to the ABS/ESP computer (Also 4wd?) and a few forum posts reference a red flashing light through a hole or someone said it is on the PCB itself. I've pulled the cover off the computer and could not see a light anywhere (See photos attached). Is there another way to get the codes?
  22. Gang, I have for sale a brand new Genuine Nissan ATTESA Nitrogen Accumulator Canister to fit all skyline GTR models that I no longer need. If your 4wd / Attessa system has never been refurbished then this is for you. It will revive that all active all wheel paw of your Skyline GTR Cost me $420 new will sell for $350 o.n.o Low ballers can see the backdoor as I will not tolerate them Located on the Gold Coast Happy to ship at buyer's expense Text 0404 006 580 or just pm me. Ants
  23. Reprieve


    From the album: Random

  24. Reprieve


    From the album: Random

  25. Hi guys my Attesa reservoir looks like this : note this is with ignition off. in this picture air gap is 27mm and fluid is 30mm above max line, when ignition is on fluid level is 25mm above max line, previous owner of the car had this problem in January: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/418449-r32-gtr-attesa-overflow-or-leak/ when i got the car i got all the fluids changed and mentioned that i thought the fluid was overfilled, so the attesa fluid was changed and the system bled (supposedly) but it was still way over the max line, it wasn't causing any problem and 4wd seemed to be working fine so i didn't worry about it, however after the last time i drove the car (which was in a rather enthusiastic fashion) i returned to the garage a week later to find leaked fluid (same as in post above), it looks as though its just overflowing out of the top when fluid is returning. from what i have read the air gap is only supposed to be 5mm max, If i bleed the system myself will that reduce that gap? without removing fluid and reservoir to have a good look its a little hard to tell how it works. I noticed that fluid level inside reservoir always seems to be higher than it appears on the outside and wondered if the filter inside the reservoir was abit clogged. edit: I remember that i had taken a picture when i first got the car, the air gap has definitely increased as you can see:
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